UKC

NEW REVIEW: Boreas Pull-On from Rab

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 UKC Gear 02 Sep 2015
Tom Blight travelling light on the South Face of Petit Grepon (III 5.7) in Colorado., 4 kb"For me the Boreas Pull-On fits the bill perfectly. It is light, hasn't ripped over many years of abuse, and has survived being washed endlessly."

David Coley reviews what has become his favourite piece of kit - the Rab Boreas Pull-On.

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 beardy mike 02 Sep 2015
In reply to UKC Gear:

I'll back that up - had mine for 3-4 years now and it's done sterling service. The two criticisms I have are:

that although the contrast stitch looks dapper, it catches badly on rock, especially rough rock and it tends to pull and look shabby quite quickly. Not that that particularly bothers me, but do they NEED the contrast stitching?

the pocket is large enough to fold the top up into a small ball and stuff it inside - the pocket looks as though it was designed for this as the stitching is neat on the inside of the pocket. But the zip is single sided and there's no look to clip it to the back of your harness.

If they sorted these two things IMHO it would be absolutely perfect - if the above features put the price up by £5 it would still be cheap...
 Andy Hardy 02 Sep 2015
In reply to UKC Gear:

How can it be windproof *and* highly breathable?
3
 Marek 02 Sep 2015
In reply to UKC Gear:

I've always fancied one, but Rab seems to tend towards very narrow shoulders and long arms. I can chop of the excess arm length, but the narrow shoulders are ridiculous. If I get one big enough for the shoulders I end up with a massive amount of material around the waist. Is it just me?
In reply to Andy Hardy:

> How can it be windproof *and* highly breathable?

Many tightly woven fabrics, nylon and cotton can be windproof and with no coating or laminate on them they remain very breathable.
 supersouthward 02 Sep 2015
In reply to UKC Gear:

I've never had the sleeve length problem with Rab and in fact I find their t-shirts and tops a little high above the wrists, ME tops always fit better in the arms!
 sbc_10 02 Sep 2015
In reply to Marek:

Not just you. I am not the smallest of frames but I need to go to XXL before anything fits me in the chest, and then I have two accessory dusters at the end of the arms.
 BnB 02 Sep 2015
In reply to Andy Hardy:


> How can it be windproof *and* highly breathable?

It just is (mostly windproof anyway). Excellent piece of gear.
 simon1985 02 Sep 2015
In reply to beardy mike:

If you put some two mm cord looped through the zip it makes it easy to close when you stuff it in the pocket and you can clip it to your harness and when your wearing it the cord just sits inside the pocket!


 Si dH 02 Sep 2015
In reply to UKC Gear:
I find this review strange as I have a Boreas, and I quite like it, but it's definitely not very windproof at all, and it's not that warm. It's ideal purpose is 2-3 season rock climbing when it's a bit too cold for short sleeves, but if you get down below about 10C (or 15 stood on a stance) it's not enough.
Post edited at 18:53
 Kemics 02 Sep 2015
In reply to beardy mike:

great point about the lack of clip loop for the harness. Its a shame as it folds perfectly into the pocket.

Probably my favourite and most used piece of clothing. I also use it as mid layer on chilly days, but also use it as my only top on really hot trips when I dont want to get sun burnt.
Ysgo 03 Sep 2015
In reply to Marek:

I spend a lot of my youth swimming, and thus my shoulders are *fairly* broad. Not huge, but certainly not small. I can't wear buffalo for example. I find the Boreas Pull-On to fit me fine. The sleeves are a touch long (I've got a negative APE index) but it just helps keep my hands warm, and the elasticated cuff keeps itself on my wrist if I want it there.

In terms of the breathability, I've used mine running and I'm sweaty as hell. It dealt with it fine.
I wouldn't describe it as windPROOF but pretty wind resistant. I'd also agree with the person who said it's a 2-3 season top. It's not massively warm, but for Spring through to Autumn I wear it on every trad route I do. That also explains how it's "highly breathable".
Finally, I've never considered the need for it to pack away into it's pocket as I just leave it on all day, but the suggestion of the 2mm cord sounds like it would solve that issue.
 Sharp 03 Sep 2015
In reply to yesbutnobutyesbut:
> Many tightly woven fabrics, nylon and cotton can be windproof and with no coating or laminate on them they remain very breathable.

I guess it depends what standards we're defining breathability and wind resistance by, to me breathability has always been a fabrics ability to let air pass through it , wind resistance has been it's ability to stop this and wind proof is a fabric that doesn't let air through. I guess compromise doesn't sell though, so now we have fabrics which don't let air through but let air through, which is great.

It sounds like this Rab top is quite breathable and quite wind resistant (a compromise) which is in reality what most people want but it would be a bold move to put something so dull and utilitarian on the marketing/packaging gumf.
Post edited at 14:45
Aldaris 03 Sep 2015
In reply to UKC Gear:

I loved my Boreas for around two years. I agree with the review... but what puzzles me that no one mentions that smell! I'm not particularly sweaty, but hey, we are outdoors. My Boreas became incredibly disgusting even though I washed it frequently. I could not take it even after washing! Switched to the Squamish hoody and happy ever since.
 Nathan Adam 03 Sep 2015
In reply to UKC Gear:

Had mine for about 4 years and it's still going strong. Definitely the best of it standard out of all the brands offers, the fit could be fine tuned a little bit more but for the price and performance I can live with the minor flaws!
 Siward 03 Sep 2015
In reply to Si dH:

Tis true, is he saying that a wicky baselayer, the boreas plus a belay jacket is enough for February in the Cairngorms?

Rather him than me.
In reply to Sharp:

Ever heard of Pertex or Ventile?
 Hay 03 Sep 2015
In reply to sbc_10:
The sleeves a waaaay too tight. I can't push them up at all.
Other than that I think its a good thing.
 David Coley 03 Sep 2015
In reply to Siward:

> Tis true, is he saying that a wicky baselayer, the boreas plus a belay jacket is enough for February in the Cairngorms?

No. I'm talking rock climbing, so if it is warm enough for no gloves, then base layer and boreas to climb in, with belay jacket to belay in.

To be fair, I might have a bias towards the south of the country and away from the hills. Must be all those sunny days at Swanage. However I find it a fine combo for 5degC on steep pitches when I'm pulling hard. A long V.Diff in North Wales in Feb would need more clothes for sure.

 nufkin 03 Sep 2015
In reply to Sharp:

> I guess it depends what standards we're defining breathability and wind resistance by, to me breathability has always been a fabrics ability to let air pass through it , wind resistance has been it's ability to stop this and wind proof is a fabric that doesn't let air through

In an 'outdoors clothing' context, breathability usually seems to refer to the amount of moisture that can pass through rather than the amount of air - from this point of view the Boreas is very breathable since it's not even remotely waterproof (though on further thought it might have a DWS coating when new. Can't remember what the tag said)
 Damo 03 Sep 2015
In reply to yesbutnobutyesbut:

> Ever heard of Pertex or Ventile?

I have both. They're not windproof, just very wind-resistant. There is a significant difference if you use them near or past their end of the spectrum. How much you notice that usually depends on what you have on underneath, and/or how cold it is.
 Siward 04 Sep 2015
In reply to David Coley:

Fair enough. It's just that I'm often amazed by how few clothes some folk on this forum seem to get away with (but then my kit always allows for the broken ankle scenario and sitting the night out in winter, although still as light as possible).
 David Coley 04 Sep 2015
In reply to Siward:

> Fair enough. It's just that I'm often amazed by how few clothes some folk on this forum seem to get away with (but then my kit always allows for the broken ankle scenario and sitting the night out in winter, although still as light as possible).

Hi, I think for me what items like the Boreas do is allow for a very clear distinction between what I wear on the pitch and what I wear on the belay. I like to climb rock in as little as possible, but still need to keep the wind off.
 ben b 05 Sep 2015
In reply to UKC Gear:

Am I right in assuming the women's version is the Aurora, rather than the Lunar?

b
 BnB 08 Sep 2015
In reply to UKC Gear:

My son nicked mine when I fancied a change (to the Arcteryx Psiphon) but the Boreas is more comfortable, more breathable, more windproof, less pricy and only let down by the scuba hood which isn't particularly helmet-friendly.

ME Squall is another take on the same idea. Anyone suggest any comparable lightweight items with the same stretchy softness and breathability?

 PPP 08 Sep 2015
In reply to BnB:

I've got both ME Squall and Rab Boreas. ME Squall definitely looks/feels better, but it seems like it's more difficult to wash ME Squall and it smells worse after use! The hood is okay under or over the helmet, but you can't hear your partner in windy Scottish conditions... I suppose that's because it's windproof and hence makes you deaf.
 BnB 09 Sep 2015
In reply to PPP:

I didn't like the cuffs on the Squall, which I tried at the same time as the Psiphon. Both have a rigidity to the fabric that feels more restrictive than the Boreas. Everyone is different but it seems to me the Boreas is just more comfortable than anything comparable. Annoyingly my son agrees and he won't give it back!
 The Potato 09 Sep 2015
In reply to UKC Gear:

I tried one of these in a shop recently, it was on sale for £37
First thing I noticed was the label saying wind resistant, which if like water resistant means, itll stop a light breeze. So I can imagine its also quite breathable. The second thing I noticed was it felt cool, so not much insulating ability.
It felt well made, good fit, decent stretch, but the main thing I wanted from it was windproof which it wasnt, so not much use I dont think, ill just stick to a long sleeve top, much cheaper too.
 The Potato 09 Sep 2015
In reply to BnB:

Rab vapour rise is more windproof, warmer, and stretchy. More expensiver too mind
 climber34neil 09 Sep 2015
In reply to BnB:

Mountain hardware super chockstone, it's slightly heavier but more windoroof/showerproof. I have the ventas (same but no hood) which I prefer to the boreas as I found the hood really anoying, it's so light it just used to get blown around my face, the ventas though is excellent
 BnB 09 Sep 2015
In reply to Pesda potato:

> Rab vapour rise is more windproof, warmer, and stretchy. More expensiver too mind

You'd have to wear it without a base layer though. It's the windproofing without the insulation that makes the Boreas so comfortable
 BnB 09 Sep 2015
In reply to climber34neil:

> Mountain hardware super chockstone, it's slightly heavier but more windoroof/showerproof. I have the ventas (same but no hood) which I prefer to the boreas as I found the hood really anoying, it's so light it just used to get blown around my face, the ventas though is excellent

Maybe I'll get a Ventus next time. But the hood does come in useful although it makes you look odd.
 The Potato 09 Sep 2015
In reply to BnB:

well thats the thing though its not windproof but wind resistant.
I do wear the RAB VR alpine pull on without a baselayer, it wicks wickedly, and has a dual zip so can open the chest for ventilation without chilling the neck.
each to their own though
 BnB 09 Sep 2015
In reply to Pesda potato:

You're right, I should have said wind-resistant (or windproof enough for me) and that's what I like about it, nice and cool inside, yet shielded from the wind.
 PPP 09 Sep 2015
In reply to BnB:

I am exactly opposite, the cuffs for Boreas are quite long and cover my wrists which I don't like while climbing (especially on cracks). Squall just makes it perfect. Of course, there's no reason to argue as both of them are similar, but very different!
ayer 10 Sep 2015
I do wear the RAB VR alpine pull on without a baselayer, it wicks wickedly, and has a dual zip so can open the chest for ventilation without chilling the neck.
 BnB 10 Sep 2015
In reply to ayer:

And what do you do when it gets so hot you just want to be wearing a tee shirt? I'm not a fan of layers bonded together (except in a shell).

 aldo56 10 Sep 2015
In reply to BnB:

Taps aff of course!
 mattrm 10 Sep 2015
In reply to UKC Gear:

Wind resistant? Maybe. It's a bit better than just a normal T from that point of view. I tend to wear it with a long sleeve merino top on cool days and it's pretty comfy. Certainly not windproof tho. I wore mine a lot in Morocco last year and it was really nice there, always felt nice and cool in it. Stopped me from getting badly sunburnt. For the price I'd say it's worth it.

I'm still looking out for a properly windproof jacket that's not a stupidly expensive softshell and is actually durable.
 BnB 10 Sep 2015
In reply to mattrm:

Arcteryx Squamish. None better. It looks pricey but you can sometimes find it for £80 (still not exactly cheap). But when you've worn it in complete comfort every day on the hill without fail and without rips or tears for a year or two you'll agree it is the best value piece in your quiver.

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