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Taken a whipper on a Vdiff?? Having read a lot of soloing threads, with advice to climb within your ability.
What's the easiest climb you've fallen off roped up where rock failure wasn't to blame.
What's the easiest climb you've fallen off roped up where rock failure wasn't to blame.
In reply to zimpara:
I did once fall off a Diff, although I was trying to haul up two backpacks at the time and it was the end of a long day. Luckly we decided to be safe and my partner had soloed up without the packs and set up a top rope. That said I still bottomed out due to rope stretch... just a sore toe.
I'm very wary of low grade routes as they tend to be dirty and often with bad gear.
I did once fall off a Diff, although I was trying to haul up two backpacks at the time and it was the end of a long day. Luckly we decided to be safe and my partner had soloed up without the packs and set up a top rope. That said I still bottomed out due to rope stretch... just a sore toe.
I'm very wary of low grade routes as they tend to be dirty and often with bad gear.
In reply to zimpara:
Lone tree groove VS 5a at black rocks. There was a stuck hex so I went up and got it out, then quickly found out why it was stuck, the crux section was desperate.
Lone tree groove VS 5a at black rocks. There was a stuck hex so I went up and got it out, then quickly found out why it was stuck, the crux section was desperate.
In reply to zimpara:
Petros (VS) in the Avon Gorge when starting out. I can't remember falling off anything easier than HVS after that, though I'm sure it's only a matter of time.
jcm
Petros (VS) in the Avon Gorge when starting out. I can't remember falling off anything easier than HVS after that, though I'm sure it's only a matter of time.
jcm
7
In reply to zimpara:
OK, this is rather embarrassing.
Sometime in the early 80's I took my then soon to be wife up to Idwall Slabs, as she wanted to have a go at climbing.
Old Bumbly Hill was very busy, and after waiting for about half an hour for another party, I set off up Ordinary Route, and then proceeded to fall off 20' feet up and slide all the way back to the bottom.
Along with ending up in a phone box in just my underpants one New Years Eve, it is the most embarrassing moment of my life.
OK, this is rather embarrassing.
Sometime in the early 80's I took my then soon to be wife up to Idwall Slabs, as she wanted to have a go at climbing.
Old Bumbly Hill was very busy, and after waiting for about half an hour for another party, I set off up Ordinary Route, and then proceeded to fall off 20' feet up and slide all the way back to the bottom.
Along with ending up in a phone box in just my underpants one New Years Eve, it is the most embarrassing moment of my life.
Post edited at 20:37
10
In reply to zimpara:
What felt like a massive pisser off Gordian Knot (MVS at the time) on White Gill, when we'd mistaken 5am for 7am and were up there just after 6am, hungover at the age of 16. Scared me to death. Still reckon it's about 6b.
What felt like a massive pisser off Gordian Knot (MVS at the time) on White Gill, when we'd mistaken 5am for 7am and were up there just after 6am, hungover at the age of 16. Scared me to death. Still reckon it's about 6b.
In reply to zimpara:
Fallen Slab Arete at Portland. It's a 3!! But all the holds are polished slopers. Apparently it's a bit easier if you stick to the arete but I got myself into one of those situations where it's Commitment vs Inevitable Pump and the latter came first.
Even though it was the last climb of the day it definitely didn't feel like a 3 as we has been climbing 3's all day and it felt miles blanker and more exposed.
I don't really solo out of fear I'll reach that same 'impassable' section just after the point of no return...
Fallen Slab Arete at Portland. It's a 3!! But all the holds are polished slopers. Apparently it's a bit easier if you stick to the arete but I got myself into one of those situations where it's Commitment vs Inevitable Pump and the latter came first.
Even though it was the last climb of the day it definitely didn't feel like a 3 as we has been climbing 3's all day and it felt miles blanker and more exposed.
I don't really solo out of fear I'll reach that same 'impassable' section just after the point of no return...
In reply to zimpara:
A 3+ at Benny Beg, possibly Ally's in Wonderland. Pump and fatigue got the better of me on lead. To be fair, the doctor said I should be in bed, possibly he had a point.
I've also fallen off a Diff (D gulley Buttress, Buachaille Etive Mor) in the pissing rain, in big boots, carrying two rucksacks, and very probably a little off route. I only went about half a metre though, back to a ledge. I've since soloed it on a nice sunny day, it's much underrated.
A 3+ at Benny Beg, possibly Ally's in Wonderland. Pump and fatigue got the better of me on lead. To be fair, the doctor said I should be in bed, possibly he had a point.
I've also fallen off a Diff (D gulley Buttress, Buachaille Etive Mor) in the pissing rain, in big boots, carrying two rucksacks, and very probably a little off route. I only went about half a metre though, back to a ledge. I've since soloed it on a nice sunny day, it's much underrated.
1
In reply to zimpara:
A really embarrassing number of gritstone VS jamming cracks. Oread, Pulcherime and Little Innominate spring to mind. I also fell off soloing Dog Leg Crack. Are you sensing the theme yet? Thankfully my jamming has improved enormously since then so I fall off harder routes instead now.
A really embarrassing number of gritstone VS jamming cracks. Oread, Pulcherime and Little Innominate spring to mind. I also fell off soloing Dog Leg Crack. Are you sensing the theme yet? Thankfully my jamming has improved enormously since then so I fall off harder routes instead now.
1
In reply to zimpara:
I came adrift on some nameless grit severe at Den Lane quarry my only excuse is that it was wet and hold less allowing me to slide gracefully off the top slab into the void.
I came adrift on some nameless grit severe at Den Lane quarry my only excuse is that it was wet and hold less allowing me to slide gracefully off the top slab into the void.
In reply to zimpara: Embarrassingly enough, I mistook the hand traverse on Milestone Buttress for a line of footholds. It was sleeting at the time and I was quite hung over. It didn't end well, with an ignominious retreat...
b
b
In reply to zimpara:
Decked out on a severe after I'd been climbing for a couple of years. It was a good lesson, but rather stupid on so many levels.
Decked out on a severe after I'd been climbing for a couple of years. It was a good lesson, but rather stupid on so many levels.
In reply to zimpara:
HS is my magic falling off grade, never anything harder or easier - so far oh that's lie first pitch of crack and corner at the roaches multiple times before getting it, but everyone knows that is really worth HS 5a right?
HS is my magic falling off grade, never anything harder or easier - so far oh that's lie first pitch of crack and corner at the roaches multiple times before getting it, but everyone knows that is really worth HS 5a right?
Post edited at 22:44
In reply to zimpara:
A couple of years back, I fell off Right Corner (VD) although called a VD on here, it's quoted as a D in the book and I'd tally with the book personally.
Was soloing up here, carting gear and ropes to set up a bottom rope so myself and a friend could have a play on Daytona Wall (E5 6a). But as I popped over the top of the crag, the wind hit me, causing to lose my balance, quickly followed by my footing and have a nice little trip back down to the bottom!! Luckily, due to my age, I was still made of rubber and magic and walked away unscathed...
A couple of years back, I fell off Right Corner (VD) although called a VD on here, it's quoted as a D in the book and I'd tally with the book personally.
Was soloing up here, carting gear and ropes to set up a bottom rope so myself and a friend could have a play on Daytona Wall (E5 6a). But as I popped over the top of the crag, the wind hit me, causing to lose my balance, quickly followed by my footing and have a nice little trip back down to the bottom!! Luckily, due to my age, I was still made of rubber and magic and walked away unscathed...
In reply to zimpara:
I fell on a S 5a No Stone Unturned (S 5a). Multiple times. I managed to get to the top, but I still forget how to get it done without falling at least once. The gear is actually not that perfect, the crux is about at 5-7m height with a single and pretty bomber DMM Offset (Size 9) placement and some shitty micros (which I pulled out the last time I fell on them).
My mate who is over 6 feet did not struggle at all as it is basically just a reachy move for a tall person.
I fell on a S 5a No Stone Unturned (S 5a). Multiple times. I managed to get to the top, but I still forget how to get it done without falling at least once. The gear is actually not that perfect, the crux is about at 5-7m height with a single and pretty bomber DMM Offset (Size 9) placement and some shitty micros (which I pulled out the last time I fell on them).
My mate who is over 6 feet did not struggle at all as it is basically just a reachy move for a tall person.
In reply to andy:
Never actually fallen off it but only done it once and agree with you. The most undergraded route I've ever come across. Presumably a trick move but I never found it.
> What felt like a massive pisser off Gordian Knot (MVS at the time) on White Gill............... Scared me to death. Still reckon it's about 6b.
Never actually fallen off it but only done it once and agree with you. The most undergraded route I've ever come across. Presumably a trick move but I never found it.
In reply to zimpara:
I fell off by the first bolt of a 5+ at Horseshoe the other week, fortunately having just clipped the bolt. I was standing on a ledge about the same size as the desk I'm typing this on. I was going to say that its was roughly equivalent to falling over walking along a pavement, but thinking about it I've done that on a number of occasions, so perhaps I do have a problem with just standing up on large flat surfaces at times.
I fell off by the first bolt of a 5+ at Horseshoe the other week, fortunately having just clipped the bolt. I was standing on a ledge about the same size as the desk I'm typing this on. I was going to say that its was roughly equivalent to falling over walking along a pavement, but thinking about it I've done that on a number of occasions, so perhaps I do have a problem with just standing up on large flat surfaces at times.
In reply to Goucho:
The first pitch of hope on Idwal slabs in heavy rain wearing a pair of B2s, after going the wrong way. I managed to snag a gear loop on something as I sorted down the slab and in the process tear the stitches at one end of it. Went back almost a year to the day and did the whole route in similarly rubbish weather, I think I have put at least 2 people off climbing permanently on that route!
The first pitch of hope on Idwal slabs in heavy rain wearing a pair of B2s, after going the wrong way. I managed to snag a gear loop on something as I sorted down the slab and in the process tear the stitches at one end of it. Went back almost a year to the day and did the whole route in similarly rubbish weather, I think I have put at least 2 people off climbing permanently on that route!
In reply to zimpara:
It was some VD in Hobson Moor quarry. My first and hopefully only ever ground fall too.
It was some VD in Hobson Moor quarry. My first and hopefully only ever ground fall too.
1
In reply to zimpara:
Saints Niche at the Dewerstone. Which disappointingly is down at Severe on the site, think it's HS in the book
Saints Niche at the Dewerstone. Which disappointingly is down at Severe on the site, think it's HS in the book
1
In reply to zimpara:
Near the top of Ordinary Route (Diff) - Idwal Slabs in pouring rain.
No excuse, I don't know why, I just fell off! It was so unexpected that that shook me...
Fortunately only slid about 10ft onto a ledge.
Near the top of Ordinary Route (Diff) - Idwal Slabs in pouring rain.
No excuse, I don't know why, I just fell off! It was so unexpected that that shook me...
Fortunately only slid about 10ft onto a ledge.
In reply to zimpara:
I've fallen off two VD, both in decent conditions.
The first at Stanage, teetering up on polished edges and my foot slipped as I was a couple of metres above my only gear which happened to be a bomber cam. Went back and laybacked straight up it no problem.
The second was even more embarrassing as I was introducing my current climbing partner to climbing outdoors for the first time, first route. I set off energetically and somehow missed my hands at a metre off the deck, stumbled back to the ground, list my balance and ended up in a heap at his feet. Not the first impression I was trying to make!
I've fallen off two VD, both in decent conditions.
The first at Stanage, teetering up on polished edges and my foot slipped as I was a couple of metres above my only gear which happened to be a bomber cam. Went back and laybacked straight up it no problem.
The second was even more embarrassing as I was introducing my current climbing partner to climbing outdoors for the first time, first route. I set off energetically and somehow missed my hands at a metre off the deck, stumbled back to the ground, list my balance and ended up in a heap at his feet. Not the first impression I was trying to make!
In reply to zimpara:
This is such a topical thread for me. Four weeks ago I fell off Adams rib (vdiff) in the lakes on lead. I was off route on damp vegetated rock. All my gear ripped and I bounced down the slab and onto a big boulder below. My partner got an anatomy lesson as I managed to get a full depth gash in my leg that put me in carslile general for two days. But I walked off the crag and I an fully functional now. First bouldering session today. Yippee. Yes I am ashamed. I fell off a vdiff. Hangs head.
This is such a topical thread for me. Four weeks ago I fell off Adams rib (vdiff) in the lakes on lead. I was off route on damp vegetated rock. All my gear ripped and I bounced down the slab and onto a big boulder below. My partner got an anatomy lesson as I managed to get a full depth gash in my leg that put me in carslile general for two days. But I walked off the crag and I an fully functional now. First bouldering session today. Yippee. Yes I am ashamed. I fell off a vdiff. Hangs head.
In reply to CurlyStevo:
Me too. Never fallen off less than HVS anywhere else. First time on grit, and Crack and Corner at Severe looked like a nice easy warm up. Took me several attempts to get the start, and left me wondering how hard a grit E1 must be.
> first pitch of crack and corner at the roaches multiple times before getting it, but everyone knows that is really worth HS 5a right?
Me too. Never fallen off less than HVS anywhere else. First time on grit, and Crack and Corner at Severe looked like a nice easy warm up. Took me several attempts to get the start, and left me wondering how hard a grit E1 must be.
In reply to zimpara:
I fell off Kelly's Overhang. Then I pulled the ropes and did it ground up. Then I came back a year later and tried to warm-up on it and fell off again.
I fell off Kelly's Overhang. Then I pulled the ropes and did it ground up. Then I came back a year later and tried to warm-up on it and fell off again.
In reply to Rachel Slater:
That's about the only fall I've ever taken of any length when leading. In 1970. I ended up just above the ground. It was such a scary fall that I never went back.
> I fell off Kelly's Overhang. Then I pulled the ropes and did it ground up. Then I came back a year later and tried to warm-up on it and fell off again.
That's about the only fall I've ever taken of any length when leading. In 1970. I ended up just above the ground. It was such a scary fall that I never went back.
In reply to zimpara:
Couple of years ago I fell off a 4c sport route (slab). That was two weeks after I had ticked my first 8b
Couple of years ago I fell off a 4c sport route (slab). That was two weeks after I had ticked my first 8b
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In reply to zimpara:
The File at VS. I couldnt feel my hands or feet, but thats no excuse I suppose :-p That same day I got rescued from Browns eliminate. Not my proudest day out climbing! All other days I climb E1-E3 depending on rocktype!
The File at VS. I couldnt feel my hands or feet, but thats no excuse I suppose :-p That same day I got rescued from Browns eliminate. Not my proudest day out climbing! All other days I climb E1-E3 depending on rocktype!
In reply to zimpara:
I slipped off soloing Slab and Arete at the Roaches (Severe) a little while back, which really surprised me. I'd just done the hard bit of the original start but it was a bit greasy and my foot just went really unexpectedly. It wasn't very far by Julian Lines standards, but far enough and put me off soloing for a while - I kept imagining it happening on the awkward bit right at the top!
I once slipped off the first pitch of Central Route at Beeston Tor (easy VS) stepping on something squishy. We were on our way up to Black Grub and I only clipped the peg as an afterthought - if I hadn't I'd have ended up in the river.
I've never properly fallen off anything hard!
I slipped off soloing Slab and Arete at the Roaches (Severe) a little while back, which really surprised me. I'd just done the hard bit of the original start but it was a bit greasy and my foot just went really unexpectedly. It wasn't very far by Julian Lines standards, but far enough and put me off soloing for a while - I kept imagining it happening on the awkward bit right at the top!
I once slipped off the first pitch of Central Route at Beeston Tor (easy VS) stepping on something squishy. We were on our way up to Black Grub and I only clipped the peg as an afterthought - if I hadn't I'd have ended up in the river.
I've never properly fallen off anything hard!
In reply to zimpara:
Jumping Carrots (HS) at Avon Sea Walls. No idea why, hand and foot slipped at the same moment, perhaps. Went some distance before the peg held. Our brand new pair of Beal Ice Lines were very stretchy
Jumping Carrots (HS) at Avon Sea Walls. No idea why, hand and foot slipped at the same moment, perhaps. Went some distance before the peg held. Our brand new pair of Beal Ice Lines were very stretchy
In reply to zimpara:
I fell off a VDiff (may even have been a Diff) in my first year of climbing, it was as green as I was.
I still fall off HVSs from time to time. Don't think I've fallen off anything easier than that for a few years.
jk
I fell off a VDiff (may even have been a Diff) in my first year of climbing, it was as green as I was.
I still fall off HVSs from time to time. Don't think I've fallen off anything easier than that for a few years.
jk
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