In reply to UKC Articles:
Nice article.
I would have mentioned the access traverse ledge being sloping, belayless and occasionally verglassed, so step carefully over any slippery bits.
Stonefall danger still exists from parties on the North Ridge and from the central depression if it snowbound.
Talk of carrying a full sack is misleading, all that is required is a light waterproof,, spare fleece or light belay jacket, headtorch, water bottle and tube, and a few cereal bars.
Abseiling down the ridge gives you an extra days holiday and means less weight to carry.
We did the circuit from the col in rock boots, no need for trainers, crampons or boots.