UKC

I seem to be stuck around the V5/6 level indoors and out and it seems obvious that I need to be using my heels more/better, but I'm struggling a bit with hip flexibility and really being able to pull from my heels (i.e. core strength is fine to use my heels to hold my weight, but not good at pulling with them).

Any suggested exercises to improve how high I can lift legs/heels and how I can pull harder with heels would be appreciated. Do I basically just need to stretch hamstrings and do more core?

Thanks

In reply to Shapeshifter:

Yoga? Or climb slabs

In reply to Shapeshifter:
I doubt they are the only things holding you back (I've been stuck at that sort of level for a decade!) but it is always good to identify and then work weaknesses.

Some fairly general suggestions:

Try to establish if you have a genuine weakness by comparing your flexibility on high steps etc. with other climbers of roughly the same height and ability.
Add some hip and leg mobility exercises into your warm up for every session (recommended anyway).
Do some specific leg stretches either as separate sessions or after climbing.
Try reverse leg curls on one of the weights machines in a gym to increase 'pulling' strength.
Try more problems specifically focusing on the moves you feel poor at.

In reply to ashtond6:

I've been thinking about yoga, just struggling a bit for time to get a class in. From what I've read you really need a class to get the best out of it especially as a beginner. Just need to get on and start doing some stretches I guess.

In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

Not the only weaknesses for sure, but I'm better at working the others. I'm in my 50's and these two I'm struggling with - too many years playing footy etc have given me tight hamstrings and lower back and heel hooking is well....just tricky.

The reverse leg curls thing is a great idea - never thought of that and I guess there's no option but I'm just going to have to get stretching.

In reply to Shapeshifter:

If you have an iOS device and want an easy way to try out Yoga then the Yoga Studio app is excellent. It's not as good as a class but it's a lot more practical:
http://yogastudioapp.com/

Just go steady with it and stop if it hurts.

In reply to Lemony:

Thanks I'll give that a look

In reply to Shapeshifter:
Hi Shape, to help those replying provide you better guidance a few more bits of info are needed.

- how did you conclude heel hooks are holding you back?
- what number of problems do you try require a heel hook to climb?

Whilst improved flexibility definately helps, I dont think you need embark on a quest for stronger legs.

What you most likely have is a case of being a V6/7 boulderer in crimps, slopers, roofs etc but your heel hooks are not on par. You will need to figure the root cause out yourself to correct this. Your core strength and control also will have alot to do how you facilitate transfer of force into your heel.

The mechanics of successfully performing a heel are complex so I include a couple of practical tips, note that information provided by the rest of the gang above will help in addressing specific areas of weakness, but until you know what they are you cant start working on improving them.
~~

Like with your football, create a heel hooking drill on easy holds/problems and do this as a warm up. Work up to being able to hook on close, distant, good and bad holds. Include holds that require special attention like pockets with a particular orientation, small slopers.

What you need to build up is being able to identify the best bit to hook and when I say best I mean part of the hold that will keep you hooked throughout the range of motion. For this you will need to think how your body will go into the move and where it will finish at the end of the move.

Check your footwear, got fat baggy heels which your foot freely rotates in when under pressure? Time to ditch the shoes for a pair with a snugger fit.

Review the process, what aspect of heel hooking causes the move to fail? Many people slap a heel on, it sticks and then need do nothing else, at the harder grades you cant get away with this.
You will need to be more active in the pressing, torquing of the heel, paying attention to the angle of your heel to the rock to avoid that sheering point where the force through your heel along the plain of rock exceeds that of force into the rock to keep it on.

Review your core, side plank, back bridge and core control exercises such as controlled twists whilst hanging will help.

In reply to Shapeshifter:

I feel your pain. Im 20 years younger and climbing a couple of grades harder but have the same weakness compared to my peers, you are not alone!
I feel like the biggest benefits i could get from physical flexibility would be more flexibility to get in a 'frog' position (so heels in high awkward positions dont push me out so much) and just great hamstring strength. Its not really core strength or ability to step high. However this is no doubt unique to individuals. I think Alx's ending advice is obviously also good as i think knowing how to 'feel' when you are pulling on your heel is half the battle.
I spent all last Saturday destroying my skin on the end of Suavito because I was easily strong enough to get my hand well over the top, but every time my right heel came off the arete so I flew off - I just couldn't work out what to do differently. A mixture of technique/feel and having poor flexibility in a frog type position, that meant I was unconsciously being forced outwards as i pulled upwards past the heelhook - and hence my bodyweight got too far out from the wall and i couldnt maintain the heel. If that makes sense.

In reply to alx:

Thanks Alx, sorry been off line a couple of days . Thanks a lot for the considered advice - all good .
Couple of points really hit home like practising heel hooks on easier problems especially on warm ups and sorting shoes. I tend to wear cheaper less technical shoes down the wall so time to get the better shoes out for heel hook training I think.

In reply to Si dH:

Know exactly what you mean about frog position and higher heel positions. It's hard to explain to people who seem naturally more flexible what an advantage it is. Anyway enough excuses, looks like I've got some training to do

Thanks again

In reply to Shapeshifter:

Alx certainly covered most stuff but remember that heel hooks are a type of move that is very hard done statically. If you're just pulling with your hooking leg you won't go anywhere. Unless you're dangling by the one heel the move starts from a push from the other leg. A bit like a rockover where the move is initiated from the lower leg and then taken over by the upper leg. Obviously these 'rules' don't apply all the time but if you're nervous about your heel sticking you tend to be tentative with the move and not give it enough oomph to get it started.

In reply to biscuit:

Yea good point, that's another area of weakness - I'm not good at 'pushing' with the non hooking leg as I'm usually so absorbed in concentrating on the other 3 limbs.

Cheers