UKC

In a strange kind of way im hoping someone has gone through this before and can point me in the right direction...

My middle fingers on both hands have got a pain around the A4/C4 area, slightly worse on my right. the only way i can describe it is a dull pain, its not really noticeable whilst climbing or doing my job (electrician so i use my hands a lot) and have started to throw some tape around that joint before climbing to try and give it some support (if tape really helps that much) its only painful if i try and bend it too much for example a clenched fist but a loose fist and i cant feel a thing.

My guess would be poor technique on crimps if that's a thing? - i have just moved onto v5 problems so the crimps are much harsher than what im used to

I know its hard to diagnose over the internet but im hoping someone has some advice- im hoping your answers are not going to be 'take a break'

In reply to photophil:

Hi Photophil, this sounds like joint inflammation rather than an accute injury like popping a pulley.

Place you hands in ice water for 30mins, the cold should be painful at first then eventually your body will flush the hands with lots of blood.
Do this twice a day for three days followed by icing as and when you need it. Stay off the crimps, look to trying to open hand/drag on small holds as a replacement. Pain killer/anti-inflammatory gels such as Voltarol can also help, but be mindful that they may lead you to return when your body is not ready.

Also do not neglect your shoulders, a raised shoulder blade round your ear when pulling on holds is going to cause you to raise your wrist which will lead you to switching to a crimp to keep purchase. Keep the shoulder blades back and down will let your big back muscles do the hard work.

In reply to photophil:

When I've damaged tendons I continue to climb but change the style of climbing.
I avoid crimps and use larger holds, so if you're bouldering perhaps just do some sessions on the circuit board on the jugs. Also try to avoid anything that is overly overhanging..

not everyone advocates or advises taping - I found that taping my finger/s helped restrict movement so I couldn't over crimp and therefore avoid prolonging the injury . However my injury seemed to take forever to heal. It wasn't until I stopped taping it that it started to heal.. I guess your tendons are not going to get stronger after an injury unless you're actually using them.

Also.. bypass the doctor and see a sports physio - cheaper than you may think.
Doctor will just tell you just to rest, phsyio's may give you exercises and will understand the injury better - plus they seem to love hand injuries and it makes a change from dealing with back ache all day long