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Can anyone recommend me a good approach shoe?

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 HosteDenis 12 Oct 2015
I have the Five Ten Guide Tennies, the older version since they apparently since a year or two updated the model.

I love the Guide Tennies, they are comfortable, they have great rubber for the occasional walk-in scramble but even better on some terrifying descent from a multipitch where the walk/scramble down is steep and a fall goes a long way. They're comfortable even on hour long walk-ins to multipitches and are very supportive, even when wearing heavy backpacks on those hour long approaches in the Alps. Mine are getting too worn, and I would buy them again in a heartbeat.

They have one downside though, and that's that they're a bit heavy (well not heavy for approach shoes, but still heavy) and on walk-back-down multipitches you'll have that weight and volume on the back of your harness. Still, for all its upsides, I gladly take this downside.

However, Five Ten has now since a year or two updated their Guide Tennies, and made the model more robust, bigger and heavier. They say they will wear down a lot slower now, but aside from not liking their new look (very minor detail) I dislike the fact that now even more volume and weight will be dangling from the back of my harness on multipitch climbs that aren't meant to be abseiled.

Can anyone recommend me a shoe, similar in comfort and support and grip as the old guide tennies or the new ones, but with the weight and volume of the old ones? (or better even, with less weight/volume than the old ones)

Or, is anyone selling a pair of the old guide tennies, in sizes 8.5 or 9?
 knighty 12 Oct 2015
In reply to HosteDenis:

Vibram Five fingers are incredible. They offer great grip, but you do need to watch your step a little because of the thin soles. They fill your brief of being light and low volume, but are not so supportive.
OP HosteDenis 12 Oct 2015
In reply to knighty:

I appreciate the comment, don't get me wrong, but I just can't take the Vibram Five Fingers seriously. I have to admit I have heard good things about them but in all honesty they don't look the real deal/supportive/comfortable enough to me for hour long hikes in the Alps...

 Siward 12 Oct 2015
In reply to HosteDenis:
The Salewa Wildfire pro in blue, red, bright green and yellow. I have acquired a pair, not tested in anger yet but worth it for their looks alone if, like me, you have a penchant for silly shoes.
 DH 12 Oct 2015
In reply to HosteDenis:

I recently had the very same problem! I went for la sportiva mix approach shoes and after a few scrambling outings with fairly long walk ins, I can say that I am very impressed with comfort and the way they climb (albeit on grade 3 terrain).
In reply to HosteDenis:

having this discussion at work today. I was wearing 5:10 guide tennies but the general consensus was for scarpa vitamin shoe.
Ysgo 13 Oct 2015
In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

A very good shoe, but sadly discontinued. There are new versions coming out in Spring apparently. Super lightweight, and very sticky. I have used the Scarpa Crux for a while, and love them. Really comfy, and supportive enough. Might be a touch heavier than the old Guide Tennie though. La Sportiva showed some new shoe at a German show a month or two ago which looked interesting. Google "La Sportiva TX2", although they don't look very supportive.
 RR 13 Oct 2015
In reply to Ysgo:
@ Ysgo @HosteDenis
The old Guide Tennies (green one's) UK 9 weight 400 gram per shoe. (New out of the box. Just bought enough pairs for the coming years on sale).
May be the TX3 is more supportive then the TX2. If La Sportive is right with what they say weight wise about the TX3 ( 350 gram) they might be a good option/substitute for the Guide Tennies. Loops to attach them to your harnas.

 climbwhenready 13 Oct 2015
In reply to HosteDenis:

My wife has Boulder Xs. Very nice shoe, I'm jealous; much better than my Camp 4s. It's got a more aggressive tread than the tennies so it's a bit different.
 Coel Hellier 13 Oct 2015
In reply to HosteDenis:

One option is to have both a pair of sturdy approach shoes for the walk ins, and also a pair of ultra-light running shoes to carry on the climb and descend back to the sacs.
J.Kydd 13 Oct 2015
In reply to HosteDenis:

Through a Slackline company I do a bit of work for from time to time I've recently been given a set of Salomon XA Pro 3d GTX shoes
http://www.salomon.com/uk/product/xa-pro-3d-gtx.html

Without trying to come across like a salesman - They're really, really nice.
Plenty of support, padded heal, stiff & grippy soles which are surprisingly good for some proper scrambling, feel really light (not sure what the actual weigh is) and being Goretex they're waterproof too. Something I think a lot of 'proper' approach shoes lack

 snoop6060 13 Oct 2015
In reply to J.Kydd:

Has anyone got any feedback on the Adidas approach shoes? Seen a few people wearing them and they look decent. In the market for a new pair of approach shoes myself.
J.Kydd 13 Oct 2015
In reply to snoop6060:

Friend of mine is using the new Adidas Terrex Solo shoes with Stealth soles for trials riding and they looked really nice. He did end up on his arse while walking across wet grass though.

They'd certainly be at the less heavy-duty end of the approach shoe scale though
 SuperstarDJ 13 Oct 2015
In reply to RR:

Hiya,

Do you know anywhere that still has the old style on sale?

I bought a pair of the new ones but I'm sad to say I'm not getting on with them. The size nines felt loose on my foot and the size 8.5 I went for are still too broad but give me painful toe strike on long days out - maybe due to the new and very rigid toe box. Shame as I loved the originals.

Thanks,

David
 PPP 13 Oct 2015
In reply to snoop6060:

I got Adidas Terrex Solo which seemed to be okay, but the sole is more suited for dry rock rather than wet grass.
I use La Sportiva Crossover GTX which are brilliant for Scottish approaches as they are waterproof and have good lugs for mud. However, I used Guide Tennies in Dolomites as they are a lot more suitable for dry rock. Some easier climbing/scrambling/via feratta is a lot better in them than anything else I have used.
 petellis 13 Oct 2015
In reply to HosteDenis:

SOunds like you want a approach shoe performance from a light trainer. In which case why not look at (fell)running trainers?
 Solaris 13 Oct 2015
In reply to Coel Hellier:

Yup – or even ditch the approach shoes for anything other than the pub.

I use worn (but not fully worn down) fell running shoes quite a bit nowadays, in both UK and the Alps. They work well: light on the back of the harness, they grip as well as approach shoes and can take crampons better than approach shoes whose sole's heals are often too broad. In fact, having a lower and narrower heal means fell running shoes can be safer, especially when carrying a load.
 RR 14 Oct 2015
In reply to SuperstarDJ:

At the time I bought them on sale, in France at Au Vieux Campeur. It was in the twilight the new model was just there, which seemed superficial seen the same as the old one’s, only a color change (around £ 35). Stingy as I am I bought 4 pair. But to answer your question: No I don’t know where you could get them.
I mailed 5.10, two months ago, about change of sizing, change of shape of the Tennies as well as their Camp4’s. No answer, no response.

I will put the camp4 here on sale as well. I bought two pairs, one the right size. Mind they are narrower then before. After a day Fontainebleau I want space when done and not cramp my feet again in a narrow toe box of the new Camp4.

I am very interested in with which one HosteDenis ends up and what he thinks about it.
 alasdair19 14 Oct 2015
In reply to HosteDenis:

I'm on my 3rd pair of scarpa zen which are really good not the lightest but protect my feet well. tried the lighter scarpa crux but not enough cushioning /support
 Chris Beck 14 Oct 2015
In reply to alasdair19:

Yup...i bought a pair of the Zen Pros after my brand new 5.10 Guides fell apart after a weeks use...both soles peeled off.
Got a full refund at least , Scarpa shoes from now on....shame as i loved the original camp 4.
Removed User 14 Oct 2015
In reply to Chris Beck:

Another Scarpa Zen user here...

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