UKC

Hi. Ive search the forum but not found anything too useful.

I have mild pain when climbing and tenderness when i press on the middle phalanx of the ring finger on both hands.

This seems indicative of an A4 pulley strain. From what i have read it is normally A2 that goes from over crimping but my A2's are fine. Anyone know what grip position could be causing just the A4 to hurt.

It's not enough to stop me climbing but it is annoying. Been climbing for 10 years 2x per week so not a beginner injury. Everytime i seem to try and push my grade this injury reappears.

Is there any prevention or cure techniques? Anyone used H-taping method? Or taped ring to middle finger? Ice or heat treatments?

Atm it's not going to stop me climbing...just don't want it to become something worse.

Thanks for any help!

In reply to phja:
Not a great deal you can do if it is a pulley strain. Tape up well and avoid anything that hurts it. Light pressure exercise built up over a number of months... gradually increasing force is used to rehabilitate pulley injuries. Doing nothing isn't a very good option for repairing them. Good luck

..yes to hot and cold treatment... 15mins per change!

In reply to phja:

It probably is from crimping, unless you crushed it somehow on an edge.

Taping is only useful when it stops you from crimping. This partly explains why http://drjuliansaunders.com/tape-and-other-catastrophies/

Basically, tape is not strong enough to support the pulley in its role of stopping the tendon from bowstringing. The tendon moves 0.2mm outwards from the finger if I remember rightly and is stopped from going further by the pulley. Tape cannot hope to help.

Climb openhanded on slopers and big holds, avoid crimps and edges which rest on the pulley. Stop when it hurts, Rest and Ice, all will probably be well in a month or two.

Best of luck, remember this is internet advice, all from personal experience and research