UKC

Hi. I had a go at Left Eliminate, Curbar yesterday and was completely stopped in my tracks even with a lovely big cam. I lay away for a couple of moves, hand-jammed on the wobbly block to get the high cam then tried to face left and do some off-width chicken wing stuff. I thought I was doing alright, but then my foot slipped. I want to go back to this again soon, but some pointers for the next metre to get past the leaning bit in particular would be appreciated.

Sorry, I don't normally do this short of thing, but I'm a proper novice at off-widths and I think I would enjoy sorting this one out

Cheers,
Cake

In reply to Cake:

I think you have answered your own question.

So without spoiling it with beta for everybody, you have tried facing left so why not try facing right?

Higher up was slack fists ( for me) for a section, so have a spare friend 5? ready. ( #4 may be a bit rattly )

In reply to Cake:

It's a real arse,after the chockstone. I did it but can only describe it as udging, facing left. I remember a big knee lock, then pushing hard on hand stacks or a chicken wing to get a foot on a good crimp on the wall left of the crack

In reply to Cake:

in took me an age ground up with lots of swearing and yo yo. on the positive side elder crack was no harder. the cracks in the right of linden at HVS seems harder than either

In reply to Cake:

I did this last weekend and it did feel hard and awkward, especially to get into a good chicken winging position. Agree that Elder Crack isn't any harder..

In reply to Cake:
Oh. I think I hadn't even reached the crux then because the chock was just above me. I think this one might be dogged or top-roped into submission before I get it clean.

Any tips on getting to the chock stone welcome

Thanks

In reply to Cake:

Fight like f*ck

In reply to mark hounslea:

Yeah, my heart wasn't in it to be honest. It was close to sunset, but I was definitely trying when I fell off.

In reply to Cake:

There are holds on the left wall.Try taping up too. Always worth abbing and having a look;can save a lot of pain.Mitch

In reply to paul mitchell:

Always?