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It is with deep sadness I report the loss of a dear friend. My Sportiva Rock Jocks, after a long battle with delamination, have finally given up the rubber and are are now destined for the great bin in the sky. As the only climbing shoe that has ever been tight and comfortable at the same time, albeit for the relative lower grades, they have been my dear companion for many a classic long route – the only climbing shoes I have never had to take off (sometime mid belay) to reduce the pain of guillotining toe nails (no matter how well manicured!).
So I am now faced with a collection of climbing horrors. Some purchased during that climbing period of your life when you actually believe the art to better grades is putting a size 8 foot in a size 6 shoe ( a clue – it doesn’t work!). Others after believing the sales patter that they will ‘grow an extra size’ (a further clue – they either don't or continue to grow!). And the ones that seemed to fit perfect in the shop and that mini climbing wall they have but seem to be a different shoe when you get home. The rare exception to this was my rock jocks which I purchased on the back of seeing nearly every guide in the Chamonix Valley wearing them (which gives a clue of how long I had them)….
So what do I do? Is there a ‘super comfy all day’ Rock Jock of the 21st Century? Do I need to man up as climbing shoes always hurt? Cut my toes off? Start wearing hobnails? Go for a resole? Or horror of horrors, buy a loose shoe and finally admit Masters Edge is simply beyond my ability ( a clue, it is but one has to dream…..)
All help, sympathy, abuse or cynicism gratefully received.
So I am now faced with a collection of climbing horrors. Some purchased during that climbing period of your life when you actually believe the art to better grades is putting a size 8 foot in a size 6 shoe ( a clue – it doesn’t work!). Others after believing the sales patter that they will ‘grow an extra size’ (a further clue – they either don't or continue to grow!). And the ones that seemed to fit perfect in the shop and that mini climbing wall they have but seem to be a different shoe when you get home. The rare exception to this was my rock jocks which I purchased on the back of seeing nearly every guide in the Chamonix Valley wearing them (which gives a clue of how long I had them)….
So what do I do? Is there a ‘super comfy all day’ Rock Jock of the 21st Century? Do I need to man up as climbing shoes always hurt? Cut my toes off? Start wearing hobnails? Go for a resole? Or horror of horrors, buy a loose shoe and finally admit Masters Edge is simply beyond my ability ( a clue, it is but one has to dream…..)
All help, sympathy, abuse or cynicism gratefully received.
6
In reply to jthet:
I just had my now discontinued Scarpa Instinct Laces resoled with Llanberis Resoles and I am dead impressed with the quality of the work. They really do look like a brand new pair of shoes (apart from the whiff).
On the other hand, I recently won a UKC competition for a pair of shoes from Cold Mountain Kit. I went for a pair of Andrea Boldrini Talisman Apache 5 shoes. They are so so comfy. This could be down to the fact that I didn't size them too small, but given how difficult it is to get them on, it's likely just down to being compatible with my foot shape.
I just had my now discontinued Scarpa Instinct Laces resoled with Llanberis Resoles and I am dead impressed with the quality of the work. They really do look like a brand new pair of shoes (apart from the whiff).
On the other hand, I recently won a UKC competition for a pair of shoes from Cold Mountain Kit. I went for a pair of Andrea Boldrini Talisman Apache 5 shoes. They are so so comfy. This could be down to the fact that I didn't size them too small, but given how difficult it is to get them on, it's likely just down to being compatible with my foot shape.
2
In reply to jthet:
Do you prefer velcro or laces? For the former, maybe try Evolv Valor? (basically a new version of the Defy except 1/2 a size smaller)
Do you prefer velcro or laces? For the former, maybe try Evolv Valor? (basically a new version of the Defy except 1/2 a size smaller)
In reply to jthet:
I love the new 5.10 pinks. Get them in your street shoe size for super comfyness if you have the kind of foot that fits 5.10's. Personally I go a size smaller, but then I don't have them on for more than a couple of hours.
I love the new 5.10 pinks. Get them in your street shoe size for super comfyness if you have the kind of foot that fits 5.10's. Personally I go a size smaller, but then I don't have them on for more than a couple of hours.
1
In reply to jthet:
La Sportiva Mythos - simply the most comfortable shoe you can buy. Once they are worn in they'll feel like wearing slippers.
La Sportiva Mythos - simply the most comfortable shoe you can buy. Once they are worn in they'll feel like wearing slippers.
5
In reply to jthet:
Touching obituary.
I absolutely love a long lower grade plod day in my Rockjocks.
Will be devastated when they do give up the ghost...
Touching obituary.
I absolutely love a long lower grade plod day in my Rockjocks.
Will be devastated when they do give up the ghost...
In reply to jthet:
For long mountain days I like red chilli Durango's for comfort and I don't drop a size!
For long mountain days I like red chilli Durango's for comfort and I don't drop a size!
In reply to jthet:
TC pro are the replacement for the rockjocks. Needlesport do them I think.
If its just your big toe nail that hurts, any pair of otherwise sensibly sized shoes can be expanded to give more toe room.
All my all day shoes have been modified with a hacksaw and shoe goo.
Turns a half hour shoe into a 12 hour shoe for me.
TC pro are the replacement for the rockjocks. Needlesport do them I think.
If its just your big toe nail that hurts, any pair of otherwise sensibly sized shoes can be expanded to give more toe room.
All my all day shoes have been modified with a hacksaw and shoe goo.
Turns a half hour shoe into a 12 hour shoe for me.
In reply to Rick Graham:
Always struggled with the big toe nail digging into its smaller neighbour, even when well trimmed, on a snug to tight fit. Find a bit of zinc oxide tape sometimes helps a little but intrigued about your use of a hacksaw and 'shoe goo'? If only to save on tape!
Always struggled with the big toe nail digging into its smaller neighbour, even when well trimmed, on a snug to tight fit. Find a bit of zinc oxide tape sometimes helps a little but intrigued about your use of a hacksaw and 'shoe goo'? If only to save on tape!
Post edited at 17:41
In reply to jthet:
I cut the top of the shoe and shape out the shoe with packed tissue and newspaper. May sure the tissue offers a neat face to the outside as this face shape will be touching your foot when the glue sets.
Fill the slot ( possibly T shaped ) on the outside with Shoe Goo.
Leave a day then pull out the tissue.
Repeat if you get the new shape not quite right.
I get shoe goo off fleebay. Be careful with tube size, some listings are misleading.
SHOE GOO CLEAR-110ml /3.7oz Glue/ Adhesive-FREE NOSSLE FREE P&P.1st CLASS POST £5.49
I cut the top of the shoe and shape out the shoe with packed tissue and newspaper. May sure the tissue offers a neat face to the outside as this face shape will be touching your foot when the glue sets.
Fill the slot ( possibly T shaped ) on the outside with Shoe Goo.
Leave a day then pull out the tissue.
Repeat if you get the new shape not quite right.
I get shoe goo off fleebay. Be careful with tube size, some listings are misleading.
SHOE GOO CLEAR-110ml /3.7oz Glue/ Adhesive-FREE NOSSLE FREE P&P.1st CLASS POST £5.49
Post edited at 18:04
1
In reply to jthet: When I first used my Rock Jocks in the Alps they were life changing, as soon as I got home I went back to my climbing shop to get another pair for when those wore out ... too late! They'd stopped making them!
I've had mine repaired but the local shoe repairer, the good news is that he only charged £5 but the bad news is that he used extra slippy rubber which isn't great. So I shall follow this thread with great interest.
I've had mine repaired but the local shoe repairer, the good news is that he only charged £5 but the bad news is that he used extra slippy rubber which isn't great. So I shall follow this thread with great interest.
In reply to jthet:
Don't even think about buying a shoe that isn't 3 sizes too small and impossible to wear for more than 5 minutes. It's a well known and documented fact that nobody, ever, in the whole history of climbing has ever managed to climb anything above V.Diff in comfortable shoes. This is the only reason that manufacturers stopped making boots and went to shoes or even slippers - perfect for multi pitch routes and descents.
The photo in the link below is obviously a fake
https://ukc2.com/i/130861.jpg
P.S. And don't ever, ever, ever wear thick socks. It's much better to lose all feeling in your toes by freezing than by wearing socks!
Pmc
Don't even think about buying a shoe that isn't 3 sizes too small and impossible to wear for more than 5 minutes. It's a well known and documented fact that nobody, ever, in the whole history of climbing has ever managed to climb anything above V.Diff in comfortable shoes. This is the only reason that manufacturers stopped making boots and went to shoes or even slippers - perfect for multi pitch routes and descents.
The photo in the link below is obviously a fake
https://ukc2.com/i/130861.jpg
P.S. And don't ever, ever, ever wear thick socks. It's much better to lose all feeling in your toes by freezing than by wearing socks!
Pmc
4
In reply to baron:
With so much bad advice around the shoe makers must have sold many times more than 'shoes in use' - so they have everything to gain
With so much bad advice around the shoe makers must have sold many times more than 'shoes in use' - so they have everything to gain
In reply to jthet:
I sadly anticipate this day will come for me too, but right now my Scarpa Superatz are still going strong - with many resolings during 33yrs. The Asolo Canyons are in fair shape but a tongue needs stitching, and latest addition to the wardrobe Boreal Equinox are too comfy - I should have got 2x sizes down but didn't fancy squeezing into the narrow toe.
I sadly anticipate this day will come for me too, but right now my Scarpa Superatz are still going strong - with many resolings during 33yrs. The Asolo Canyons are in fair shape but a tongue needs stitching, and latest addition to the wardrobe Boreal Equinox are too comfy - I should have got 2x sizes down but didn't fancy squeezing into the narrow toe.
In reply to jthet:
I like the Evolv Sharman, I find its super comfortable and good enough to climb hard on small edges, smears pretty well too.
It's quite wide, and there is enough room for the toes, the love bump takes up most of the dead space.
I normally use 10.5 in Evolv, but it n the quest for a comfortable shoe after my Optimus Primes died I got the Sharman in 12, I can wear it all day, and it perfor,s well..... And most importantly they are orange
I like the Evolv Sharman, I find its super comfortable and good enough to climb hard on small edges, smears pretty well too.
It's quite wide, and there is enough room for the toes, the love bump takes up most of the dead space.
I normally use 10.5 in Evolv, but it n the quest for a comfortable shoe after my Optimus Primes died I got the Sharman in 12, I can wear it all day, and it perfor,s well..... And most importantly they are orange
In reply to jthet:
There are a few sizes of Boreal Ballets and Aces available still on Ebay, presumably old stock as I don't think they've been made for a few years. I've always found I can really tighten them up a lot and still wear them all day because they are actually human foot shaped shoes not banana shaped shoes.
There are a few sizes of Boreal Ballets and Aces available still on Ebay, presumably old stock as I don't think they've been made for a few years. I've always found I can really tighten them up a lot and still wear them all day because they are actually human foot shaped shoes not banana shaped shoes.
In reply to baron:
Right on! Its also just plain wimpish to stop midges getting access to ankles and way too modest preventing the wall from knowing how rad you are from the stink.
Right on! Its also just plain wimpish to stop midges getting access to ankles and way too modest preventing the wall from knowing how rad you are from the stink.
In reply to pec:
Boreal Aces and Ballet (Gold) are still made:
http://www.e-boreal.com/ing/comienzo.htm
Evolv do the Astroman as well:
http://www.rockrun.com/brands/evolv/evolv-astroman
As obviously the current "classic" across the pond is the previously mentioned TC Pro:
http://www.sportiva.com/products/footwear/climbingapproach/tc-pro
Boreal Aces and Ballet (Gold) are still made:
http://www.e-boreal.com/ing/comienzo.htm
Evolv do the Astroman as well:
http://www.rockrun.com/brands/evolv/evolv-astroman
As obviously the current "classic" across the pond is the previously mentioned TC Pro:
http://www.sportiva.com/products/footwear/climbingapproach/tc-pro
In reply to jthet:
I know one man's meat is another man's poison where rock shoes are concerned but for all day wear I have found 5.10 Stonelands suit me. They are the first Velcro shoe I've had and I think they are great. They are so good that after I'd worn them for a few outings I bought another pair (in a fit of optimism as regards longevity - mine, that is). So often I've tried to replace a worn out pair of shoes that I like only to find you can't get them any more.
I know one man's meat is another man's poison where rock shoes are concerned but for all day wear I have found 5.10 Stonelands suit me. They are the first Velcro shoe I've had and I think they are great. They are so good that after I'd worn them for a few outings I bought another pair (in a fit of optimism as regards longevity - mine, that is). So often I've tried to replace a worn out pair of shoes that I like only to find you can't get them any more.
In reply to jthet:
I foolishly sold my rock jocks in a moment of poverty.
But the good news is I managed to pick up a second hand, nearly new pair, on here for about £30. It would be worth your while posting in the for sale forum.
I also have a pair of Tc pros, which I think are excellent, but they're a different beast in my view.
I foolishly sold my rock jocks in a moment of poverty.
But the good news is I managed to pick up a second hand, nearly new pair, on here for about £30. It would be worth your while posting in the for sale forum.
I also have a pair of Tc pros, which I think are excellent, but they're a different beast in my view.
In reply to jthet:
LS Katanas, although they really do grow. However, I have them 1.5 sizes below my LS Nepals rather than 2.5 sizes with my last pair.
I can wear my Katanas all day, but the edging performance is of course not as good as with shoes with a bigger downturn (LS Solutions for harder single pitch stuff or plastic pulling).
CB
LS Katanas, although they really do grow. However, I have them 1.5 sizes below my LS Nepals rather than 2.5 sizes with my last pair.
I can wear my Katanas all day, but the edging performance is of course not as good as with shoes with a bigger downturn (LS Solutions for harder single pitch stuff or plastic pulling).
CB
In reply to mp3ferret:
Of all the replies on here I think this is one of the most sensible. Some people are suggesting aggressive, downturned technical shoes. Obviously they've never seen a Rock Jock!
FWIW I would look at the Scarpa Techno X. It's a bit more technical but it's definitely designed as an all day comfort shoe. Pretty stiff when new, but it will be great on tiny edges (Master's Edge?).
> La Sportiva Mythos - simply the most comfortable shoe you can buy. Once they are worn in they'll feel like wearing slippers.
Of all the replies on here I think this is one of the most sensible. Some people are suggesting aggressive, downturned technical shoes. Obviously they've never seen a Rock Jock!
FWIW I would look at the Scarpa Techno X. It's a bit more technical but it's definitely designed as an all day comfort shoe. Pretty stiff when new, but it will be great on tiny edges (Master's Edge?).
1
In reply to galpinos:
Does anywhere actually sell them though? I've searched all over in shops and online and nobody stocks them.
> Boreal Aces and Ballet (Gold) are still made:
Does anywhere actually sell them though? I've searched all over in shops and online and nobody stocks them.
Post edited at 10:50
In reply to jthet:
I agree with this but weren't rock jocks approach shoes anyway?
> So I am now faced with a collection of climbing horrors. Some purchased during that climbing period of your life when you actually believe the art to better grades is putting a size 8 foot in a size 6 shoe ( a clue £ it doesn£t work!).
I agree with this but weren't rock jocks approach shoes anyway?
In reply to Ysgo:
+1 for Techno Xs - best edging shoes I've ever worn and comfy. Not the stickiest or smeariest, though...
+1 for Techno Xs - best edging shoes I've ever worn and comfy. Not the stickiest or smeariest, though...
In reply to pec:
I think it'd be foolish to go so old-skool now that the new generation of Boreals seem to have cracked the comfort issue while still being great to climb in - way more precise and stickier than any previous all-day shoe. My favourites for that are the Marduks.
I think it'd be foolish to go so old-skool now that the new generation of Boreals seem to have cracked the comfort issue while still being great to climb in - way more precise and stickier than any previous all-day shoe. My favourites for that are the Marduks.
In reply to john arran:
I guess it depends on your foot shape but I can't wear anything even vaguely banana shaped or which crimps my toes for more than a few minutes without it crippling me even when they are more than big enough for my feet.
Its not my shoes which stop me climbing harder:
http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lLyF8zcP674/maxresdefault.jpg
I guess it depends on your foot shape but I can't wear anything even vaguely banana shaped or which crimps my toes for more than a few minutes without it crippling me even when they are more than big enough for my feet.
Its not my shoes which stop me climbing harder:
http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lLyF8zcP674/maxresdefault.jpg
In reply to jthet:
I bought a pair of Scarpa Velocity's just for routine wall use and they have turned out to be dead comfy. Not very technical performance wise, but would make a good all day shoe.
I bought a pair of Scarpa Velocity's just for routine wall use and they have turned out to be dead comfy. Not very technical performance wise, but would make a good all day shoe.
In reply to jthet:
5.10 anasazi guide?
http://www.gearinstitute.com/climbing/item/five-ten-anasazi-guide
5.10 anasazi guide?
http://www.gearinstitute.com/climbing/item/five-ten-anasazi-guide
In reply to jthet:
At least two people have already mentioned the La Sportiva Mythos. I agree. If you have wide feet, as I do, they are perfect. I am on my fifth pair. Nothing else comes close for day-long comfort, combined with stickiness and edging precision, in my view.
At least two people have already mentioned the La Sportiva Mythos. I agree. If you have wide feet, as I do, they are perfect. I am on my fifth pair. Nothing else comes close for day-long comfort, combined with stickiness and edging precision, in my view.
1
In reply to jthet:
I'll give another shout out for the LaSportiva TCpro's. They are without a doubt the most comfortable I've ever owned and a really good shoe to boot(no pun intended) - Tommy C climbed most of the Dawn Wall in them! I bought a pair for a recent trip to the valley and climbed several big walls in them, they are now my first choice for trad.
They are more comfortable than 5.10 Anazazi(any style) and Scarpa Vapour(any style) which were my previous favourites.
In my search for comfort, although I've never tried them I've also heard mythical things about the LaSportiva Mythos!
Aviod anything technical!
Good Luck.
I'll give another shout out for the LaSportiva TCpro's. They are without a doubt the most comfortable I've ever owned and a really good shoe to boot(no pun intended) - Tommy C climbed most of the Dawn Wall in them! I bought a pair for a recent trip to the valley and climbed several big walls in them, they are now my first choice for trad.
They are more comfortable than 5.10 Anazazi(any style) and Scarpa Vapour(any style) which were my previous favourites.
In my search for comfort, although I've never tried them I've also heard mythical things about the LaSportiva Mythos!
Aviod anything technical!
Good Luck.
In reply to pec:
They had Boreal Ballet Gold shoes at Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder in October. I think you can also get them from the Bergfreunde website, but I imagine there must be several other European retail sources. The Joe Brown shop in Llanberis used to stock them, but I don't know if they still do. I have 3 pairs, ranging from one pair nearly new to another pair on the 3rd resole.
They had Boreal Ballet Gold shoes at Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder in October. I think you can also get them from the Bergfreunde website, but I imagine there must be several other European retail sources. The Joe Brown shop in Llanberis used to stock them, but I don't know if they still do. I have 3 pairs, ranging from one pair nearly new to another pair on the 3rd resole.
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