In reply to UKC Gear:
I'd agree with the final summary of this review, it is a good book and can be fascinating. The first person recollections of amazing climbs and all the mental and other preparation needed to climb like this are the high point and feel insightful and honest.
However, there is too much padding especially as the book goes on. Anyone interested in tedious descriptions of climbing films Alex has been in from the co-author, or a few quotes from him and others (often taken from magazines) spun up into pages on uneventful sponsored climbing trips or other mishaps?
Don't put it down too often otherwise you might not pick it up again, but overall I'm glad I read it.