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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=628652
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=2611 Since there are some trips planned to Spain here on FC.
Exile: Looked like a nice training schedule last week! Managed to link the boulder this week?
0.5viking: stop eating chocolate and go running again this week.
The Ex-Engineer: Wow 7 days on, good effort! Did you manage the 7a+s this week? And how was Portland today?
Hms Hope the other two 7bs were nicer routes. Did you manage one of them? What about the route that got you obsessed on Sunday?
Nick Russell: Good you could start training again! Felt stronger this week?
Tyler: Did your toe get any better this week? And managed to lose some weight?
Biscuit: Thanks for wishing me good luck (will need it on some of the exams..). Hope you’re enjoying your holiday. Did you already got some climbing done?
Planetmarshall: What’s the verdict now the cast is off? Managed to go out for a run?
Ian Bell: Managed to rest in time with regard to the elbows? Did you climb or took a complete rest week?
Dandan82: Bummer that the acupuncture didn’t give some relieve. Good that you found a training you can do without worsening the elbow! For the slab I thought more on outdoor, but I do vaguely recall you weren’t really keen on trad?
AJM: Nice you got into training mode later in the week! How was this week? Enjoy your time in Chulilla!
Joyce: Congrats on finishing the black circuit! What kind of wall are you going to build in your shed?
Robin Brooke: Welcome, some nice goals! Have you done much outdoor/trad climbing this year? Did you get the 7a clean this week?
Spenser: Congrats on the 6c onsight, looks promising for when you’re able to lead again! Did you go outside this weekend?
Ally Smith: Nice one on the linkups! Did you manage to get out this week or were you tapering towards Chulilla (I assume your’re going there with AJM this week)?
TonyB: Nice that you got to try an 8a and found an 8a+ as well! Did you manage to get on Sissy or Caviar this week?
Humperdink: Thanks I hope so too, 3 more weeks of exams left. Impressive time on the 10k! When is your next race (since you talked about time to train and up the mileage) and do you have any specific goal for it?
Just Tintin: Did you manage to add some points to Wirksworth WBL score? Does it stand for winter bouldering league and, if so, how does the score system work?
Flopsicle: Stepping on a slab no handed is a really good exercise, nice you managed it! You can take a good learning from this years event and do better next year! Cool that you were competing together with your daughter! Was this week more satisfying?
AWOL: mattrm, alexm198, Joughton, Richard Popp
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=628652
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=2611 Since there are some trips planned to Spain here on FC.
Exile: Looked like a nice training schedule last week! Managed to link the boulder this week?
0.5viking: stop eating chocolate and go running again this week.
The Ex-Engineer: Wow 7 days on, good effort! Did you manage the 7a+s this week? And how was Portland today?
Hms Hope the other two 7bs were nicer routes. Did you manage one of them? What about the route that got you obsessed on Sunday?
Nick Russell: Good you could start training again! Felt stronger this week?
Tyler: Did your toe get any better this week? And managed to lose some weight?
Biscuit: Thanks for wishing me good luck (will need it on some of the exams..). Hope you’re enjoying your holiday. Did you already got some climbing done?
Planetmarshall: What’s the verdict now the cast is off? Managed to go out for a run?
Ian Bell: Managed to rest in time with regard to the elbows? Did you climb or took a complete rest week?
Dandan82: Bummer that the acupuncture didn’t give some relieve. Good that you found a training you can do without worsening the elbow! For the slab I thought more on outdoor, but I do vaguely recall you weren’t really keen on trad?
AJM: Nice you got into training mode later in the week! How was this week? Enjoy your time in Chulilla!
Joyce: Congrats on finishing the black circuit! What kind of wall are you going to build in your shed?
Robin Brooke: Welcome, some nice goals! Have you done much outdoor/trad climbing this year? Did you get the 7a clean this week?
Spenser: Congrats on the 6c onsight, looks promising for when you’re able to lead again! Did you go outside this weekend?
Ally Smith: Nice one on the linkups! Did you manage to get out this week or were you tapering towards Chulilla (I assume your’re going there with AJM this week)?
TonyB: Nice that you got to try an 8a and found an 8a+ as well! Did you manage to get on Sissy or Caviar this week?
Humperdink: Thanks I hope so too, 3 more weeks of exams left. Impressive time on the 10k! When is your next race (since you talked about time to train and up the mileage) and do you have any specific goal for it?
Just Tintin: Did you manage to add some points to Wirksworth WBL score? Does it stand for winter bouldering league and, if so, how does the score system work?
Flopsicle: Stepping on a slab no handed is a really good exercise, nice you managed it! You can take a good learning from this years event and do better next year! Cool that you were competing together with your daughter! Was this week more satisfying?
AWOL: mattrm, alexm198, Joughton, Richard Popp
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - Climb outside again...
Weight - 12st 7lbs (STS)
M - F - Rest / Lungs not working...
S - S - More DIY
Monthly Avg - 0%
Yearly Avg - 64%
Pretty much the same as last week. Lungs still bad. Didn't help that I pulled a muscle in my back/shoulder last week, that's been painful most of the week. Finishing off the shed today and yesterday. Once that's done I can start moving the dusty tools out of the house. Then work more on getting it cleaner.
Goals for this week:
Go climbing indoors
Do some dish tucks.
Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - Climb outside again...
Weight - 12st 7lbs (STS)
M - F - Rest / Lungs not working...
S - S - More DIY
Monthly Avg - 0%
Yearly Avg - 64%
Pretty much the same as last week. Lungs still bad. Didn't help that I pulled a muscle in my back/shoulder last week, that's been painful most of the week. Finishing off the shed today and yesterday. Once that's done I can start moving the dusty tools out of the house. Then work more on getting it cleaner.
Goals for this week:
Go climbing indoors
Do some dish tucks.
Post edited at 09:26
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks! and yes was a great summer for Trad this year. All UK - mainly weekends or week trips to Pembroke, Gogarth, Cornwall, Swanage, plus couple of visits to Tremadog and Millstone. Ticking E1's, and trying the odd E2 (like Regent Street and Beast from the Undergrowth) the former was still a bit too hard -upper finger crack- but psyched to go back! Then some late season sport in Kalymnos. Back to the Gym for Winter now…
Ticking over this week, body needed some rest. Got a 6c and 7a project clean (indoor), plus found some new partners (as mine is now injured and out for several months).
M & T: Rest
W: Leading at Castle (upstairs and wells). Onsight/Flash: 5, 5+, 6a+, 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6b+, 6b+. 2x tries on 6c+ project (pink/upstairs). Need to find better rest to stop falling at penultimate clip.
Th & F: Rest
S: Leading at Castle (upstairs and wells). New Partner Nikos. Onsight/Flash: 5+, 6a+, 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6b+, 6c (Red/upstairs - nice). Redpoint clean 7a (Beige/wells) nice! And then fell at last clip 6c+ (Blue/wells).
S
Rest
STG: More 6c+ & 7a RP indoor by xmas then start structured training enduro/strength/power for 3 months - indoor
MTG: 7a & E2 RP/OS in 2016 - long roadtrip in van starting april in spain/france
LTG: 7b & E3 OS - outdoor
Thanks! and yes was a great summer for Trad this year. All UK - mainly weekends or week trips to Pembroke, Gogarth, Cornwall, Swanage, plus couple of visits to Tremadog and Millstone. Ticking E1's, and trying the odd E2 (like Regent Street and Beast from the Undergrowth) the former was still a bit too hard -upper finger crack- but psyched to go back! Then some late season sport in Kalymnos. Back to the Gym for Winter now…
Ticking over this week, body needed some rest. Got a 6c and 7a project clean (indoor), plus found some new partners (as mine is now injured and out for several months).
M & T: Rest
W: Leading at Castle (upstairs and wells). Onsight/Flash: 5, 5+, 6a+, 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6b+, 6b+. 2x tries on 6c+ project (pink/upstairs). Need to find better rest to stop falling at penultimate clip.
Th & F: Rest
S: Leading at Castle (upstairs and wells). New Partner Nikos. Onsight/Flash: 5+, 6a+, 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6b+, 6c (Red/upstairs - nice). Redpoint clean 7a (Beige/wells) nice! And then fell at last clip 6c+ (Blue/wells).
S
Rest
STG: More 6c+ & 7a RP indoor by xmas then start structured training enduro/strength/power for 3 months - indoor
MTG: 7a & E2 RP/OS in 2016 - long roadtrip in van starting april in spain/france
LTG: 7b & E3 OS - outdoor
In reply to 0.5viking:
Cheers.
Another mixed week, some disruption due to a few days in London.
Monday - wall. Some more progress on the pink, well beyond me as a link bit it was good to get through the roof bit. Then also a 1on1off.
Tuesday - good fingerboard session before work. London after work.
Wednesday - London. Rest.
Thursday - London. Wall after work. Solid session, worked hard on some problems although it was more boulder/ancap length stuff in the main rather than stamina.
Friday - rest
Saturday - cuttings. A few warmups, a flash go on Live by the Sword (7a+) and then fell off the last hard move on redpoint by being a halfwit.
Sunday - wall. Bicep started hurting so sacked it off and did some rehab.
Have to be careful with the bicep. Probably take tomorrow off and go carefully after that.
Feel a bit like I wasted the good weather yesterday. My psyche is very intermittent at the minute. I jumped into training when I got back last year in an attempt to sidestep the likely drop in climbing level that comes from not climbing full time. I think the fact that by most measures in not as good as I was 18 months ago is one of the reasons for the variable psyche. I've still got ambitions at higher climbing levels but at the minute I'm finding it hard to motivate myself for going through that stage where I've got to feel like I'm puntering about climbing badly at grades I feel I should be smoother on.
Probably also a reason why it's easier to get psyched for bouldering this past year; I never explored my limits in that area as thoroughly so I've got less to measure against.
I need to do some thinking as to the best way to progress from here psyche wise - its all very well training hard but if my head isn't in it I won't get very far...
Cheers.
Another mixed week, some disruption due to a few days in London.
Monday - wall. Some more progress on the pink, well beyond me as a link bit it was good to get through the roof bit. Then also a 1on1off.
Tuesday - good fingerboard session before work. London after work.
Wednesday - London. Rest.
Thursday - London. Wall after work. Solid session, worked hard on some problems although it was more boulder/ancap length stuff in the main rather than stamina.
Friday - rest
Saturday - cuttings. A few warmups, a flash go on Live by the Sword (7a+) and then fell off the last hard move on redpoint by being a halfwit.
Sunday - wall. Bicep started hurting so sacked it off and did some rehab.
Have to be careful with the bicep. Probably take tomorrow off and go carefully after that.
Feel a bit like I wasted the good weather yesterday. My psyche is very intermittent at the minute. I jumped into training when I got back last year in an attempt to sidestep the likely drop in climbing level that comes from not climbing full time. I think the fact that by most measures in not as good as I was 18 months ago is one of the reasons for the variable psyche. I've still got ambitions at higher climbing levels but at the minute I'm finding it hard to motivate myself for going through that stage where I've got to feel like I'm puntering about climbing badly at grades I feel I should be smoother on.
Probably also a reason why it's easier to get psyched for bouldering this past year; I never explored my limits in that area as thoroughly so I've got less to measure against.
I need to do some thinking as to the best way to progress from here psyche wise - its all very well training hard but if my head isn't in it I won't get very far...
In reply to 0.5viking:
thanks for the stats Viking. Had a busy week:
M - cycle commute, long fingerboard session in evening
T - cycle commute, shoulder rehab
W - cycle commute. UCR in evening. had 3 goes on another 7b which is all slopers & rounded edges. I can do it all bar 1 move.
T - cycle commute. Had planned on a circuits session on the way home, but turned out to be a stressful day as a co-worker decided to be a right jobsworthy. Came home and did a fingerboard session plus shoulder rehab instead.
F - TCA to try the new greens. 4 were roped off. Of the remaining 27 I did 20, 19 of them flash. The 7 elusive ones include 2 I really don't think it a great idea to try as they are weirdly shouldery (12 & 14), 3 which might go if I tried them again fresh (9 final move, 18 second move, & 27 final move) and 2 which I severly doubt I'll ever get (11 & 17). Didn't think they were as good as the oranges - seemed more thuggy & less technical, hence I could flash or not do at all.
S - bit of urban walking, long fingerboard session. Reduced the rest to 2 mins and kept going for 20 iterations by which time even the warm down jugs were feeling ridiculously hard.
S - UCR, dozen routes in pairs. Another go at the 7a which I was obssessing over - tickled the top hold and took a whipper. Also another couple of goes on the 7b. Much playing around but still can't do the stopper move. had a chat with Jak and tried how he had set it, but till no luck - relies on a thin heelhook from which I can get zero upward propulsion.
Off to Chulilla early on Friday morning. Plan to get in a couple of sessions before then - just wish UCR would reset their circuits!
thanks for the stats Viking. Had a busy week:
M - cycle commute, long fingerboard session in evening
T - cycle commute, shoulder rehab
W - cycle commute. UCR in evening. had 3 goes on another 7b which is all slopers & rounded edges. I can do it all bar 1 move.
T - cycle commute. Had planned on a circuits session on the way home, but turned out to be a stressful day as a co-worker decided to be a right jobsworthy. Came home and did a fingerboard session plus shoulder rehab instead.
F - TCA to try the new greens. 4 were roped off. Of the remaining 27 I did 20, 19 of them flash. The 7 elusive ones include 2 I really don't think it a great idea to try as they are weirdly shouldery (12 & 14), 3 which might go if I tried them again fresh (9 final move, 18 second move, & 27 final move) and 2 which I severly doubt I'll ever get (11 & 17). Didn't think they were as good as the oranges - seemed more thuggy & less technical, hence I could flash or not do at all.
S - bit of urban walking, long fingerboard session. Reduced the rest to 2 mins and kept going for 20 iterations by which time even the warm down jugs were feeling ridiculously hard.
S - UCR, dozen routes in pairs. Another go at the 7a which I was obssessing over - tickled the top hold and took a whipper. Also another couple of goes on the 7b. Much playing around but still can't do the stopper move. had a chat with Jak and tried how he had set it, but till no luck - relies on a thin heelhook from which I can get zero upward propulsion.
Off to Chulilla early on Friday morning. Plan to get in a couple of sessions before then - just wish UCR would reset their circuits!
Post edited at 17:03
In reply to AJM:
This could be used in one of those school examples of why punctuation is important!
> Thursday - London. Wall after work.
This could be used in one of those school examples of why punctuation is important!
In reply to AJM:
If you are more psyched for bouldering, then just go bouldering. You can always mix in the odd traverse to keep your endurance up if you want to. I've gone down that route this year - ie just carried on climbing what I fancied (which was bouldering), rather than worrying about what I 'should' be doing - and it's definitely actually resulted in me getting a lot stronger. Mainly this was because I had the psyche to sit and repeatedly try hard moves on outdoor problems, pushing myself more than I ever would at the wall before becoming ridiculously bored or demotivated. (Example: today I spent my 7th session focussed wholly on one single problem.)
If you're low on psyche to start with I'd say this is definitely a good option, especially now you've got that new guide to go at. When you eventually get bored of bouldering, you'll probably find the extra strength gives you the confidence (if not the fitness!) to get back on some more routes again.
If you are more psyched for bouldering, then just go bouldering. You can always mix in the odd traverse to keep your endurance up if you want to. I've gone down that route this year - ie just carried on climbing what I fancied (which was bouldering), rather than worrying about what I 'should' be doing - and it's definitely actually resulted in me getting a lot stronger. Mainly this was because I had the psyche to sit and repeatedly try hard moves on outdoor problems, pushing myself more than I ever would at the wall before becoming ridiculously bored or demotivated. (Example: today I spent my 7th session focussed wholly on one single problem.)
If you're low on psyche to start with I'd say this is definitely a good option, especially now you've got that new guide to go at. When you eventually get bored of bouldering, you'll probably find the extra strength gives you the confidence (if not the fitness!) to get back on some more routes again.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for doing the stats again Viking. I was mega psyched about the 6c, I'll try and get some more stuff done this week. My
Monday: Trip to wall, top roped 3 routes and belayed new people on a few routes.
Tuesday: Nothing:
Wednesday: 1km swim before work
Thurdsay: Nothing
Friday: Nothing
Saturday: 7 ish mile walk (ankle was hurting a bit by the end of it, seemed to improve when I ditched the boots and went for a wander round ambleside).
Sunday: 12 mile bike ride round along the western edge of Windermere and Esthwaite Water, didn't get any trouble from my ankle initially although driving back down the M1 did it no favours. Going to do some physio this evening to address that.
Short term Goal: Continue building strength and working on fitness as much as work etc allow before recommencing normal climbing in December. Top rope 7a at the wall. - Made progress toward this, going to see if I can do that this week if partners are available.
Medium Term Goal: Redpoint 7a, headpoint E4
Long Term Goal: Onsight 7a, E4.
Thanks for doing the stats again Viking. I was mega psyched about the 6c, I'll try and get some more stuff done this week. My
Monday: Trip to wall, top roped 3 routes and belayed new people on a few routes.
Tuesday: Nothing:
Wednesday: 1km swim before work
Thurdsay: Nothing
Friday: Nothing
Saturday: 7 ish mile walk (ankle was hurting a bit by the end of it, seemed to improve when I ditched the boots and went for a wander round ambleside).
Sunday: 12 mile bike ride round along the western edge of Windermere and Esthwaite Water, didn't get any trouble from my ankle initially although driving back down the M1 did it no favours. Going to do some physio this evening to address that.
Short term Goal: Continue building strength and working on fitness as much as work etc allow before recommencing normal climbing in December. Top rope 7a at the wall. - Made progress toward this, going to see if I can do that this week if partners are available.
Medium Term Goal: Redpoint 7a, headpoint E4
Long Term Goal: Onsight 7a, E4.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for doing fit club again.
No - not quite linked it yet.
2015 aims:
Winter2015 / 16 Consolidate VI 7.
Spring / early Summer 2016: A couple more 7b RPs and OS 6c
Summer 2016 OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: pm, 1hr road run (Winter endurance)
T: pm, 1hr 30min trying to link up - down - up on the 45 degree woody - 18 hand movements when it comes together. (Top end power endurance)
W: 1hr road run (Winter endurance)
T: Rest
F: am, 1hr trying to link up - down - up on the 45 degree woody - 18 hand movements when it comes together. (Top end power endurance)
S: Rest
S: am, 1hr 30min trying to link up - down - up on the 45 degree woody - 18 hand movements when it comes together. (Top end power endurance) pm, 1hr MTB ride with one of my lads (Winter endurance)
A good week. away with work this coming week so need to be inventive with training.
Thanks for doing fit club again.
No - not quite linked it yet.
2015 aims:
Winter2015 / 16 Consolidate VI 7.
Spring / early Summer 2016: A couple more 7b RPs and OS 6c
Summer 2016 OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: pm, 1hr road run (Winter endurance)
T: pm, 1hr 30min trying to link up - down - up on the 45 degree woody - 18 hand movements when it comes together. (Top end power endurance)
W: 1hr road run (Winter endurance)
T: Rest
F: am, 1hr trying to link up - down - up on the 45 degree woody - 18 hand movements when it comes together. (Top end power endurance)
S: Rest
S: am, 1hr 30min trying to link up - down - up on the 45 degree woody - 18 hand movements when it comes together. (Top end power endurance) pm, 1hr MTB ride with one of my lads (Winter endurance)
A good week. away with work this coming week so need to be inventive with training.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Also, thanks for asking, Portland was great today
M-W - rest
T - Boulder @ Brookes. Short session in the front section of the wall, 12x Blues mostly flashed plus worked 3/5 Reds (~V5-V7).
F - Boulder @ Brookes. Longer session; sent one of the blocs I worked Thursday plus another new Red but mainly climbed c.20 more Blues. Now done all bar four which are all awkward in their own way (a dyno start, a mantle, a scary heel hook and a nasty slopey volume).
S - rest
S - Sport @ The Cuttings. Warmed up on Consommé (6a+), European Flavour (6b) and New Saladin (6c).
Got Want Out (7b+) first redpoint, third tie-in. Stunning climbing with a crazy, brilliant high rockover move
> The Ex-Engineer: Wow 7 days on, good effort! Did you manage the 7a+s this week? And how was Portland today?
Decided it was time to have a few rest days this week. I didn't get back on the 7a+s but I did get round to trying all the Blue Tags (~V2-V4) on this set.Also, thanks for asking, Portland was great today
M-W - rest
T - Boulder @ Brookes. Short session in the front section of the wall, 12x Blues mostly flashed plus worked 3/5 Reds (~V5-V7).
F - Boulder @ Brookes. Longer session; sent one of the blocs I worked Thursday plus another new Red but mainly climbed c.20 more Blues. Now done all bar four which are all awkward in their own way (a dyno start, a mantle, a scary heel hook and a nasty slopey volume).
S - rest
S - Sport @ The Cuttings. Warmed up on Consommé (6a+), European Flavour (6b) and New Saladin (6c).
Got Want Out (7b+) first redpoint, third tie-in. Stunning climbing with a crazy, brilliant high rockover move
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks. I had a brief session at Rubicon today but due to lack of time I just brought the pads, so couldn't get on the Sissy. I was most keen to try the Caviar boulder start. The rock was dry, but the lake had flooded so where I would have to put the mat there was about 10cm of water. I tried a few other boulder problems but wasn't able to do anything that I hadn't done before. I really like bouldering at Rubicon but it's bloody hard!
Mon Fingerboard and core
Tue bouldering mileage and rings
Wed bouldering with long rests, continuous climbing and shoulder stability
Thur rest
Friday weighted pull ups and bouldering short rests
Sat rest
Sun not very convincing bouldering and core
I'm travelling with work next week and then when I get back my wife travels and I'm on childcare duty. Luckily this all coincides with a rest week, so if I can get a couple of core sessions, a bit of stretching and some shoulder work I'll be happy.
Thanks. I had a brief session at Rubicon today but due to lack of time I just brought the pads, so couldn't get on the Sissy. I was most keen to try the Caviar boulder start. The rock was dry, but the lake had flooded so where I would have to put the mat there was about 10cm of water. I tried a few other boulder problems but wasn't able to do anything that I hadn't done before. I really like bouldering at Rubicon but it's bloody hard!
Mon Fingerboard and core
Tue bouldering mileage and rings
Wed bouldering with long rests, continuous climbing and shoulder stability
Thur rest
Friday weighted pull ups and bouldering short rests
Sat rest
Sun not very convincing bouldering and core
I'm travelling with work next week and then when I get back my wife travels and I'm on childcare duty. Luckily this all coincides with a rest week, so if I can get a couple of core sessions, a bit of stretching and some shoulder work I'll be happy.
In reply to 0.5viking:
M: Rest
T: Unplanned/undeserved rest
W: Stockport, had the afternoon off so should have been a good session but I was rubbish.
T: Short session at Rockover, still shit (me not the wall which is continually improving). Experimented with foot on campusing.
F: Rest
S: working, meant to have a break in the afternoon but events tool over
S: working meant to finish about two but events took over. Managed to get to Stockport for last 90mins before it closed. Quick boulder (failed to do at least 3 of the V5s) then did a quick foot on campus session. Once again dismayed at how shit I am at basic training exercises, 65 seconds and sore finger joints is the current benchmark.
Off to Maraglef on Sunday and not in as good a shape as I'd hoped, down graded holiday goal from OS 7b+ to 7b
M: Rest
T: Unplanned/undeserved rest
W: Stockport, had the afternoon off so should have been a good session but I was rubbish.
T: Short session at Rockover, still shit (me not the wall which is continually improving). Experimented with foot on campusing.
F: Rest
S: working, meant to have a break in the afternoon but events tool over
S: working meant to finish about two but events took over. Managed to get to Stockport for last 90mins before it closed. Quick boulder (failed to do at least 3 of the V5s) then did a quick foot on campus session. Once again dismayed at how shit I am at basic training exercises, 65 seconds and sore finger joints is the current benchmark.
Off to Maraglef on Sunday and not in as good a shape as I'd hoped, down graded holiday goal from OS 7b+ to 7b
Post edited at 23:42
1
In reply to 0.5viking:
Yeah, starting to feel ok on the circuits. Still not as strong as I was at the start of the month, but that kind of fluctuation isn't really anything to worry about.
M - am 8km run. I don't like running first thing in the morning, so I'm not really sure why I keep doing it. This time it got cold and stormy and started raining as I got to the uphill bit.
T - TCA. A few circuits. Got around the 6c+ on the steep board once but shut down by the hard move at the end on subsequent laps.
W - Nothing (well lazy)
T - Bloc, circuits + core. Managed the 6c+ on the left board once, but couldn't get past the crossover move about 3/4 of the way round on subsequent attempts.
F - Nothing. Travel to the US.
S - Nothing. Doing the tourist thing in DC.
S - Indoor routes. American walls are weird, as are their grades. I didn't do anything particularly hard (up to high F6) but it's good to get a few routes in.
Weight 65.2 (I think)
I'm visiting Emily in Maryland this week. Likely to be light on the training but I'll fit in what I can. A bit of running, hiking and another visit to the wall is probably on the cards.
> Nick Russell: Good you could start training again! Felt stronger this week?
Yeah, starting to feel ok on the circuits. Still not as strong as I was at the start of the month, but that kind of fluctuation isn't really anything to worry about.
M - am 8km run. I don't like running first thing in the morning, so I'm not really sure why I keep doing it. This time it got cold and stormy and started raining as I got to the uphill bit.
T - TCA. A few circuits. Got around the 6c+ on the steep board once but shut down by the hard move at the end on subsequent laps.
W - Nothing (well lazy)
T - Bloc, circuits + core. Managed the 6c+ on the left board once, but couldn't get past the crossover move about 3/4 of the way round on subsequent attempts.
F - Nothing. Travel to the US.
S - Nothing. Doing the tourist thing in DC.
S - Indoor routes. American walls are weird, as are their grades. I didn't do anything particularly hard (up to high F6) but it's good to get a few routes in.
Weight 65.2 (I think)
I'm visiting Emily in Maryland this week. Likely to be light on the training but I'll fit in what I can. A bit of running, hiking and another visit to the wall is probably on the cards.
In reply to Dandan:
Sorry, being a bit overly dramatic, but I have genuinely had a really good week rest-wise and yet my elbows are worse, probably the worst they have been. The only way I could rest them further would be to stop going about my daily business, dressing myself, making food, opening doors etc, which just isn't really feasible. I can no longer wear jumpers as it painful to get my arms in the sleeves, I take plates out of the cupboard one at a time and like they are Ming dynasty fine porcelain, I shamefully walked empty-handed through Asda car park while my wife carried two big bags of shopping, I'm doing everything I can, but still no joy.
Scan in a couple of weeks but I'm not sure what new information it can give me, I already know my elbows are buggered!
M: Exercise ball core - completed every rep of every exercise of wk9 program for first time!
T: Strength and Conditioning
W:
T: Exercise ball core
F:
S:
S:
I'm thinking about doing some yoga or pilates for flexibility, it's something I'm really bad at and might be something to take my mind off the elbows, I can learn to touch my toes instead of doing one-armers...
I've even considered (shudder) Cardio exercise to keep me entertained but can't really justify the cost of a road bike and turbo trainer (cos I'm a winter wuss) so I might end up running which I hate.
Sorry, being a bit overly dramatic, but I have genuinely had a really good week rest-wise and yet my elbows are worse, probably the worst they have been. The only way I could rest them further would be to stop going about my daily business, dressing myself, making food, opening doors etc, which just isn't really feasible. I can no longer wear jumpers as it painful to get my arms in the sleeves, I take plates out of the cupboard one at a time and like they are Ming dynasty fine porcelain, I shamefully walked empty-handed through Asda car park while my wife carried two big bags of shopping, I'm doing everything I can, but still no joy.
Scan in a couple of weeks but I'm not sure what new information it can give me, I already know my elbows are buggered!
M: Exercise ball core - completed every rep of every exercise of wk9 program for first time!
T: Strength and Conditioning
W:
T: Exercise ball core
F:
S:
S:
I'm thinking about doing some yoga or pilates for flexibility, it's something I'm really bad at and might be something to take my mind off the elbows, I can learn to touch my toes instead of doing one-armers...
I've even considered (shudder) Cardio exercise to keep me entertained but can't really justify the cost of a road bike and turbo trainer (cos I'm a winter wuss) so I might end up running which I hate.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks as ever for the stats. Robin - good to see you on fitclub. Who got injured?
STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year)
MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
Simple week this week, rested the elbows all week. Did 2 routes on Weds but decided it was a bad idea and went home again. Annoyingly I managed to injure them overdoing it on the elbow protection antagonist exercises! Managed core at least every other day this week.
Feeling better now although still not quite right. Going to try some gentle climbing today and if it still hurts go see physio. Hoping to not miss too many more weeks as not long till Tenerife and enforced rest isn't helping the aim of 7b.
Thanks as ever for the stats. Robin - good to see you on fitclub. Who got injured?
STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year)
MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
Simple week this week, rested the elbows all week. Did 2 routes on Weds but decided it was a bad idea and went home again. Annoyingly I managed to injure them overdoing it on the elbow protection antagonist exercises! Managed core at least every other day this week.
Feeling better now although still not quite right. Going to try some gentle climbing today and if it still hurts go see physio. Hoping to not miss too many more weeks as not long till Tenerife and enforced rest isn't helping the aim of 7b.
In reply to hms:
Half sessions only this week - TAPER!
> Off to Chulilla early on Friday morning. Plan to get in a couple of sessions before then - just wish UCR would reset their circuits!
Half sessions only this week - TAPER!
In reply to 0.5viking:
Tapering for most of the week just gone – half sessions only and a double rest day. Also got the diet in good order and shed a couple of pounds, however, my knee is a bit buggered and a climbing physio friend was very concerned by how wobbly it is….
MTG (by end of 2015)
Do an 8a slab; The Medium?
Do some progressive (grit?) headpointing.
Kilnsey/Malham/Orme bolting efforts
Toadal Recall, f8a – tidy up loose ends.
Well Done finish, f8b (seems very unlikely now)
2x mid-week training sessions
2x week core sessions – proper Randall beastings
Sub 74 kg & 6.4% BF before Chulilla trip – getting close
STG (next week)
- TAPER
- Chulilla - La Montana Magica, f8a+/b and f7c OS (End Nov)
- Rehab – TICK
- Maintain gradual weight loss/sub 75 kg – TICK
Last week:
M - AWS. Left knee made horrible popping sound warming up and didn’t like high steps for rest of the session. 2/3rd linked-boulder an-cap; added a couple of moves to previous link problem and worked out a good pinch problem on the 45 to mimic La Cara Que No Miente (Siurana 8a+). Attempted 10x 7b 1on/1off but failed miserably and ended up doing 1 on/2 off – forearms messed up, but shoulder behaving.
T - Less snot than previous days, but knee sore on waking. FB2 (BM + 41.5 kg, 4x 14kg repeaters – just less than last week, but 2nd day on) then FO campus in the garden – new PB @ 299s, then 252s showing good depth of aero-power, but heavens opened and didn’t get to complete the curve; frustrating! Hanging and floor core, ball rehab & glutes. Knackered.
W - Rest – London daytrip – reet knackered
T - Cave of justice by lamplight. Worked out beta for The Wire and made some good links. Did the top-out and most of Broken Heart again too – feeling confident about 8A+ this winter. Gert knackered.
F - Date night - Beer and cumulative fatigue left me a bit dysphasic. Failed to open the Pistachio shell.
S - Early morning bike ride (17 mile) to rescue car abandoned at work. Then KMF; Ben Moon and especially Tommy Caldwell were inspiring.
S - Grit. Damp start at Curbar. Dozen problems up to 7A+. Chuffed to OS 7A and had encouraging goes on Sole Power (7C) and Slingshot (8A).
74.6kg/6.5% BF Monday morning.
Tapering for most of the week just gone – half sessions only and a double rest day. Also got the diet in good order and shed a couple of pounds, however, my knee is a bit buggered and a climbing physio friend was very concerned by how wobbly it is….
MTG (by end of 2015)
Do an 8a slab; The Medium?
Do some progressive (grit?) headpointing.
Kilnsey/Malham/Orme bolting efforts
Toadal Recall, f8a – tidy up loose ends.
Well Done finish, f8b (seems very unlikely now)
2x mid-week training sessions
2x week core sessions – proper Randall beastings
Sub 74 kg & 6.4% BF before Chulilla trip – getting close
STG (next week)
- TAPER
- Chulilla - La Montana Magica, f8a+/b and f7c OS (End Nov)
- Rehab – TICK
- Maintain gradual weight loss/sub 75 kg – TICK
Last week:
M - AWS. Left knee made horrible popping sound warming up and didn’t like high steps for rest of the session. 2/3rd linked-boulder an-cap; added a couple of moves to previous link problem and worked out a good pinch problem on the 45 to mimic La Cara Que No Miente (Siurana 8a+). Attempted 10x 7b 1on/1off but failed miserably and ended up doing 1 on/2 off – forearms messed up, but shoulder behaving.
T - Less snot than previous days, but knee sore on waking. FB2 (BM + 41.5 kg, 4x 14kg repeaters – just less than last week, but 2nd day on) then FO campus in the garden – new PB @ 299s, then 252s showing good depth of aero-power, but heavens opened and didn’t get to complete the curve; frustrating! Hanging and floor core, ball rehab & glutes. Knackered.
W - Rest – London daytrip – reet knackered
T - Cave of justice by lamplight. Worked out beta for The Wire and made some good links. Did the top-out and most of Broken Heart again too – feeling confident about 8A+ this winter. Gert knackered.
F - Date night - Beer and cumulative fatigue left me a bit dysphasic. Failed to open the Pistachio shell.
S - Early morning bike ride (17 mile) to rescue car abandoned at work. Then KMF; Ben Moon and especially Tommy Caldwell were inspiring.
S - Grit. Damp start at Curbar. Dozen problems up to 7A+. Chuffed to OS 7A and had encouraging goes on Sole Power (7C) and Slingshot (8A).
74.6kg/6.5% BF Monday morning.
In reply to Si dH:
Cheers Si. Yeah I've definitely got some things I'm keen to try over the winter.
I do probably have to go through that readjustment process at some point though (unless I just wait until I'm soooo strong before going back into routes) so I think alongside that I need to work out how to press on through the bit where hard work isn't compensating for rock mileage - eventually I'll get out that far side and be pushing on upwards again rather than pushing back upwards again....
Cheers Si. Yeah I've definitely got some things I'm keen to try over the winter.
I do probably have to go through that readjustment process at some point though (unless I just wait until I'm soooo strong before going back into routes) so I think alongside that I need to work out how to press on through the bit where hard work isn't compensating for rock mileage - eventually I'll get out that far side and be pushing on upwards again rather than pushing back upwards again....
In reply to 0.5viking:
Hi all,
I used to post to this thread a few years ago until I had a cycling accident and I was out for a few months and never really started posting again. I'm in need fo some motivation as winter approaches, so if no-one objects I'm going to start posting again!
M - took it easy and skipped the gym as I was knackered after Leeds Abbey Dash
T - Commute on the bike, 5k each way. 6.7k trail run
W - didn't manage to do anything
T - 10k trail run in the pouring rain with a PR on one of my strava segments, which made me happy
F - Commute on the bike, 5k each way.
S - 8k road running, including the Bradford parkrun (24:03 - my best time for ages at Bradford)
S - Peco XC league at Temple Newsam 7.5k @ 5.01 min/k (which is a great pace for me and I beat several people in our club that didn't expect me to do)
Goals - lose weight, stay injury free and run all winter.
Hi all,
I used to post to this thread a few years ago until I had a cycling accident and I was out for a few months and never really started posting again. I'm in need fo some motivation as winter approaches, so if no-one objects I'm going to start posting again!
M - took it easy and skipped the gym as I was knackered after Leeds Abbey Dash
T - Commute on the bike, 5k each way. 6.7k trail run
W - didn't manage to do anything
T - 10k trail run in the pouring rain with a PR on one of my strava segments, which made me happy
F - Commute on the bike, 5k each way.
S - 8k road running, including the Bradford parkrun (24:03 - my best time for ages at Bradford)
S - Peco XC league at Temple Newsam 7.5k @ 5.01 min/k (which is a great pace for me and I beat several people in our club that didn't expect me to do)
Goals - lose weight, stay injury free and run all winter.
Post edited at 13:54
2
In reply to Ian Bell:
Thanks Ian. Unfortunately my girlfriend Paula ruptured her Achilles tendon (partial) playing netball ten days ago. Why she was doing anything other than climbing I can't understand A visit to A&E, an operation, a leg cast & crutches later, she is now on the 4-6 month(!!) recovery...we are optimistic so hope she recovers and gets basic fitness in time for our planned trip in April, otherwise belay duties will beckon for her!
> Thanks as ever for the stats. Robin - good to see you on fitclub. Who got injured?
Thanks Ian. Unfortunately my girlfriend Paula ruptured her Achilles tendon (partial) playing netball ten days ago. Why she was doing anything other than climbing I can't understand A visit to A&E, an operation, a leg cast & crutches later, she is now on the 4-6 month(!!) recovery...we are optimistic so hope she recovers and gets basic fitness in time for our planned trip in April, otherwise belay duties will beckon for her!
In reply to robbiebrookie:
Ouch, that's nasty ;-( hope she recovers quickly. Least she can still use the beastmaker.....
Ouch, that's nasty ;-( hope she recovers quickly. Least she can still use the beastmaker.....
In reply to 0.5viking:
Cheers Viking, hope you managed to get out running this week. Next races for me are an XC league race in two weeks time and then another 10K on the road which will be the first attempt this winter to try and get under 31mins (or as close as possible!)
M: calves + soleus sore from road race. am - 10/11M in 66:11, pm - 4/5M in 30:30
Tu: still sore! am 4/5M in 29:51, pm - 9/10M in 64:03 - crazy windy behind me for most of the run but the last couple of miles into it hurt! Then had massage which confirmed my fears that everything was tight + sore
W: am - Decided to get road session in early before the wind got to crazy levels again. Warmed up then did an hour of 3min at tempo pace, 3min steady - battered by the end. 13M all in. pm - 4/5M in 29:46 felt surprisingly ok.
Th: am - 8/9M in 55:33 tired
F: am - 4/5M in 31:18
Sa: am - XC session on grass. 6 x a loop which was just under a mile including two big hills (about 60-70 seconds to run up) with 90 seconds jog recovery. Fortunately the wind was mainly behind going up the hills but sadly the recovery was downhill back to the start! Very cold + windy. Ran well, at the front of the group and didn't kill myself so good signs. 11/12M, pm - 5M in 31:43 - felt good had to keep slowing myself down, cold.
Su: am - had a long drive to see friends so had to move long run to Monday and did 10M very early in around 70mins instead.
Total Mileage about 86M so getting closer to that 90 mile mark and finally recovered from the race by the end of the week to run strongly on Saturday. Just need to keep the consistency now.
Cheers Viking, hope you managed to get out running this week. Next races for me are an XC league race in two weeks time and then another 10K on the road which will be the first attempt this winter to try and get under 31mins (or as close as possible!)
M: calves + soleus sore from road race. am - 10/11M in 66:11, pm - 4/5M in 30:30
Tu: still sore! am 4/5M in 29:51, pm - 9/10M in 64:03 - crazy windy behind me for most of the run but the last couple of miles into it hurt! Then had massage which confirmed my fears that everything was tight + sore
W: am - Decided to get road session in early before the wind got to crazy levels again. Warmed up then did an hour of 3min at tempo pace, 3min steady - battered by the end. 13M all in. pm - 4/5M in 29:46 felt surprisingly ok.
Th: am - 8/9M in 55:33 tired
F: am - 4/5M in 31:18
Sa: am - XC session on grass. 6 x a loop which was just under a mile including two big hills (about 60-70 seconds to run up) with 90 seconds jog recovery. Fortunately the wind was mainly behind going up the hills but sadly the recovery was downhill back to the start! Very cold + windy. Ran well, at the front of the group and didn't kill myself so good signs. 11/12M, pm - 5M in 31:43 - felt good had to keep slowing myself down, cold.
Su: am - had a long drive to see friends so had to move long run to Monday and did 10M very early in around 70mins instead.
Total Mileage about 86M so getting closer to that 90 mile mark and finally recovered from the race by the end of the week to run strongly on Saturday. Just need to keep the consistency now.
In reply to Dandan:
Sorry to hear about the elbows.
Definitely do yoga. It's fixed me when I've been broken in the past. Pilates is good as well. But I prefer yoga, personally.
As for the food shopping maybe do home deliveries? Saves so much time. Most places do delivery for £1 if you buy a pass.
Sorry to hear about the elbows.
Definitely do yoga. It's fixed me when I've been broken in the past. Pilates is good as well. But I prefer yoga, personally.
As for the food shopping maybe do home deliveries? Saves so much time. Most places do delivery for £1 if you buy a pass.
1
In reply to Humperdink: Cheers.
I was proper pumped by the time I got the first jug below the roof and thought I was going to blow it crossing the roof...
Surprisingly, it wasn't a route I knew anything about until I was looking through the guidebook on Saturday evening, despite climbing there a fair bit previously. However I was really impressed with the climbing and it is well worth its 3 stars.
I was proper pumped by the time I got the first jug below the roof and thought I was going to blow it crossing the roof...
Surprisingly, it wasn't a route I knew anything about until I was looking through the guidebook on Saturday evening, despite climbing there a fair bit previously. However I was really impressed with the climbing and it is well worth its 3 stars.
1
In reply to 0.5viking:
Cheers for the thread 'alf a Viking! "Stepping on a slab no handed is a really good exercise, nice you managed it!" I've been doing some of the milder slab no hands for a while, 1 at the depot and there's some good roped ones at NCC. The roped ones are out of service at the moment which is what pushed me onto the steeper slabs as I want to maintain/improve the skill. Still, this week I've started to feel that MUCH more practice is needed and on smaller footies!
Slightly more fit stuff from me this week:
Mon - 2 mile hilly run and biked to work (about 2.5 mile but hilly)
Tues - 2 mile hilly run, 2.5 mile hilly bike, 1 hr skating.
Wed - 2 mile run, 2 hrs lead and roped climbing (more like 1 after nattering!)
Thurs - 2 mile hilly run, biked to work
Fri - 2 mile hilly run. 105 laps on auto belay (-7ft for height, remaining ascent 20ft) mostly 4s, some 5s and I think a few 6s, climbs not graded yet so a bit of guess work.
Sat - 3 miles hilly bike, dossed about climbing then went to best mates for mucho drinkies!!
Sun- hangover climbing! Well, at least I dragged my backside off the sofa (eventually)! Needless to say it was probably not my finest day of climbing.
Cheers for the thread 'alf a Viking! "Stepping on a slab no handed is a really good exercise, nice you managed it!" I've been doing some of the milder slab no hands for a while, 1 at the depot and there's some good roped ones at NCC. The roped ones are out of service at the moment which is what pushed me onto the steeper slabs as I want to maintain/improve the skill. Still, this week I've started to feel that MUCH more practice is needed and on smaller footies!
Slightly more fit stuff from me this week:
Mon - 2 mile hilly run and biked to work (about 2.5 mile but hilly)
Tues - 2 mile hilly run, 2.5 mile hilly bike, 1 hr skating.
Wed - 2 mile run, 2 hrs lead and roped climbing (more like 1 after nattering!)
Thurs - 2 mile hilly run, biked to work
Fri - 2 mile hilly run. 105 laps on auto belay (-7ft for height, remaining ascent 20ft) mostly 4s, some 5s and I think a few 6s, climbs not graded yet so a bit of guess work.
Sat - 3 miles hilly bike, dossed about climbing then went to best mates for mucho drinkies!!
Sun- hangover climbing! Well, at least I dragged my backside off the sofa (eventually)! Needless to say it was probably not my finest day of climbing.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Seems a bit conservative for a man of your talents. Even a mediocrity like me was repeatedly on-sighting 7c and 7c+ in Chulilla with none of this fancy-schmancy training and periodisation business - just a summer season of weekends at Kilnsey The grading and routes at Chulilla (in the high 7s anyway) seemed an absolute gift for those who can get a bit back at intermittent jugs - very "traddy" sport climbing - endless successions of powerful bits separated by shake-outs.
> STG (next week)
> - Chulilla - La Montana Magica, f8a+/b and f7c OS (End Nov)
> - Chulilla - La Montana Magica, f8a+/b and f7c OS (End Nov)
Seems a bit conservative for a man of your talents. Even a mediocrity like me was repeatedly on-sighting 7c and 7c+ in Chulilla with none of this fancy-schmancy training and periodisation business - just a summer season of weekends at Kilnsey The grading and routes at Chulilla (in the high 7s anyway) seemed an absolute gift for those who can get a bit back at intermittent jugs - very "traddy" sport climbing - endless successions of powerful bits separated by shake-outs.
In reply to Dandan:
Sorry about your elbows. If it helps I always hated running but did like the results - namely eating what I want! If you can find somewhere nice to run it helps too and it's free.
Hope they figure it out.
Sorry about your elbows. If it helps I always hated running but did like the results - namely eating what I want! If you can find somewhere nice to run it helps too and it's free.
Hope they figure it out.
1
In reply to flopsicle:
Thanks for the kind comments guys.
Some possible good news, I bought a book on a whim last week, it's called 'Overcoming Gravity: A guide to gymnastic and bodyweight exercise', I thought it might contain some good stuff for antagonistic training and general conditioning, plus, who doesn't want to be able to do an iron cross, right?
I got around to looking at it last night and it actually has a really good section on injuries, specifically it has 8 pages on tendonitis/tendinosis. Crucially it outlines different rehab methods between acute (tendonitis) and chronic (tendinosis) problems. The issue I had with trying to rehab the elbows was that I was unsure what was helping and what was hindering, now I have a rehab guide specifically for my exact issue that I can follow, with a level of confidence that the information in the book is backed up with good research from the gymnastic world.
For me, there is a level of comfort in following a process set out by an 'expert' rather than figuring out a process for myself, some kind of placebo effect perhaps, but I find that extra mental assurance helps. Fingers crossed, anyway.
Thanks for the kind comments guys.
Some possible good news, I bought a book on a whim last week, it's called 'Overcoming Gravity: A guide to gymnastic and bodyweight exercise', I thought it might contain some good stuff for antagonistic training and general conditioning, plus, who doesn't want to be able to do an iron cross, right?
I got around to looking at it last night and it actually has a really good section on injuries, specifically it has 8 pages on tendonitis/tendinosis. Crucially it outlines different rehab methods between acute (tendonitis) and chronic (tendinosis) problems. The issue I had with trying to rehab the elbows was that I was unsure what was helping and what was hindering, now I have a rehab guide specifically for my exact issue that I can follow, with a level of confidence that the information in the book is backed up with good research from the gymnastic world.
For me, there is a level of comfort in following a process set out by an 'expert' rather than figuring out a process for myself, some kind of placebo effect perhaps, but I find that extra mental assurance helps. Fingers crossed, anyway.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Hi, sorry I missed last weeks posting. I had the previous Sunday pulled in a slightly wild and unfocussed manner on a steep TCA crimp and heard a click followed by pain. Stopped straight away although it was only the start of the session, rested, massaged and its seems OK, phew, felt more like a joint shifting but who knows.
So two weeks ago managed two sessions at TCA, one cut short but one fun, did a couple of blacks and all easier stuff on Mothership. Ran twice, both about three miles with quite large hill and did fingerboard routine focussing on oomph (quite a lot of pull ups/lock offs etc but never more than six at one go)
Last week-two visits to TCA, first tentative but second trying new circuit F5-6A+) flashing a lot or getting them quickly, some harder ones will return to but all felt more doable than comparable circuit before. Ran couple of times including 5 mile flat run in just under 4mins, felt ok for non runner,one burl session.
Various things settling down so looking to get back to three visits a week, all bouldering till at least Christmas, enjoying it.
Thanks Mr Viking et al.
Rich
Hi, sorry I missed last weeks posting. I had the previous Sunday pulled in a slightly wild and unfocussed manner on a steep TCA crimp and heard a click followed by pain. Stopped straight away although it was only the start of the session, rested, massaged and its seems OK, phew, felt more like a joint shifting but who knows.
So two weeks ago managed two sessions at TCA, one cut short but one fun, did a couple of blacks and all easier stuff on Mothership. Ran twice, both about three miles with quite large hill and did fingerboard routine focussing on oomph (quite a lot of pull ups/lock offs etc but never more than six at one go)
Last week-two visits to TCA, first tentative but second trying new circuit F5-6A+) flashing a lot or getting them quickly, some harder ones will return to but all felt more doable than comparable circuit before. Ran couple of times including 5 mile flat run in just under 4mins, felt ok for non runner,one burl session.
Various things settling down so looking to get back to three visits a week, all bouldering till at least Christmas, enjoying it.
Thanks Mr Viking et al.
Rich
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
Yeah - the mediocre objectives are based on having a fecked shoulder for the last 3 months - i've only really gotten on the training wagon again in the last 3 weeks, so this weekend is the acid test.
The wildly optimistic version is 8b RP and 8a OS, but the data doesn't seem to add up for those performance levels...
> Seems a bit conservative for a man of your talents. Even a mediocrity like me was repeatedly on-sighting 7c and 7c+ in Chulilla with none of this fancy-schmancy training and periodisation business - just a summer season of weekends at Kilnsey The grading and routes at Chulilla (in the high 7s anyway) seemed an absolute gift for those who can get a bit back at intermittent jugs - very "traddy" sport climbing - endless successions of powerful bits separated by shake-outs.
Yeah - the mediocre objectives are based on having a fecked shoulder for the last 3 months - i've only really gotten on the training wagon again in the last 3 weeks, so this weekend is the acid test.
The wildly optimistic version is 8b RP and 8a OS, but the data doesn't seem to add up for those performance levels...
In reply to 0.5viking:
Morning Campers,
Mr V, keep eating the chocolate - I've not scoffed any this week and put on just 1.6kg according to the International Weighing Scales of Destiny - so you'll be grand (that's what I think anyway, actual results may vary, full terms and conditions apply!).
The good ol' Supershed will feature an 8ft wide by 9ft high 35 degree panel, joined by a 2ft wide roof to a 12ft wide by 8 ft high 20 degree panel. There'll be a vertical wall down at the one end too to link 'em up. Plans are also afoot for a few campus rungs (maybe 6), some hemispheres, various fingerboards, pulleys and a long ol' metal bar for pull ups with grips of any widths and to dangle a TRX, Rock Rings and the like off. Hopefully, this'll all be built over the Christmas holidays before the bambino puts in an appearance (it's due on the first day of the holidays so we'll see... but that's the plan anyhoo. I showed the goodladywife my plans (gave her a guided tour of Supershed too) and she was beyond impressed and can't wait to start cranking again once she's up to it. Ace!
Anyway, an easy one this week.
Training Diary WC 16/11/15
Not quite out of the woods.
Monday Saturday– Not quite feeling the full ticket so rest.
Sunday – Monster 10 hr digging day – woo hoo!
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+ - nope.
Slopers, slopers, slopers, heel hooks (and other weaknesses) – nope.
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’ (nope).
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability - nope.
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff - nope. At least one BM session a week – nope. Core stuff: 3 core sessions – nope.
Weight = 71.7kg
Still feeling a little under the weather, just enough to keep any decent stab at 'athleticism' stifled. Better luck next week.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Mr V, keep eating the chocolate - I've not scoffed any this week and put on just 1.6kg according to the International Weighing Scales of Destiny - so you'll be grand (that's what I think anyway, actual results may vary, full terms and conditions apply!).
The good ol' Supershed will feature an 8ft wide by 9ft high 35 degree panel, joined by a 2ft wide roof to a 12ft wide by 8 ft high 20 degree panel. There'll be a vertical wall down at the one end too to link 'em up. Plans are also afoot for a few campus rungs (maybe 6), some hemispheres, various fingerboards, pulleys and a long ol' metal bar for pull ups with grips of any widths and to dangle a TRX, Rock Rings and the like off. Hopefully, this'll all be built over the Christmas holidays before the bambino puts in an appearance (it's due on the first day of the holidays so we'll see... but that's the plan anyhoo. I showed the goodladywife my plans (gave her a guided tour of Supershed too) and she was beyond impressed and can't wait to start cranking again once she's up to it. Ace!
Anyway, an easy one this week.
Training Diary WC 16/11/15
Not quite out of the woods.
Monday Saturday– Not quite feeling the full ticket so rest.
Sunday – Monster 10 hr digging day – woo hoo!
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+ - nope.
Slopers, slopers, slopers, heel hooks (and other weaknesses) – nope.
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’ (nope).
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability - nope.
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff - nope. At least one BM session a week – nope. Core stuff: 3 core sessions – nope.
Weight = 71.7kg
Still feeling a little under the weather, just enough to keep any decent stab at 'athleticism' stifled. Better luck next week.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
In reply to Dandan:
Dave Mac has a new blog about some research linking tendon pain to cholesterol intake. Might be worth a read.
> Rested all week, elbows are worse.
Dave Mac has a new blog about some research linking tendon pain to cholesterol intake. Might be worth a read.
In reply to planetmarshall:
Well that is interesting, shame it doesn't give any specific dietary advice for improving cholesterol though.
I've been on a pretty consistent diet for a little over 2 years now, been suffering with this specific tendon issue for 7 months or so and had other elbow problems on and off for 20 years, neither of them align very well to any significant change in diet.
Maybe I should get my cholesterol checked out, see where I'm at...
Source: http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2015/11/tendon-pain-could-your-di...
Well that is interesting, shame it doesn't give any specific dietary advice for improving cholesterol though.
I've been on a pretty consistent diet for a little over 2 years now, been suffering with this specific tendon issue for 7 months or so and had other elbow problems on and off for 20 years, neither of them align very well to any significant change in diet.
Maybe I should get my cholesterol checked out, see where I'm at...
Source: http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2015/11/tendon-pain-could-your-di...
Post edited at 13:05
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks Viking - didn't manage to get into Wirksworth again as got distracted buying a Christmas Tree (it's a Rocky Mountain Pine...just like the ones I ski through/into in the States!). Doing 3 WBLs again this year, though skiing trip in Feb might count me out of the Big Rock one.
1. Wirksworth 25 problems decreasing points from onsight to be completed over 2 week period, 11 rounds
2. Climbing Unit 30 problems decreasing points from onsight to be completed over a 3 hour period (lucky if I get there in time for 1.5 hours) 5 rounds
3. Big Rock 40 problems one point per problem completed with infinite attempts over 4 week period, 4 rounds.
M – 45min boulder blast Brookes before coaching
T – rest
W – rest
T – Boulder Brookes
F – Boulder Big Rock
S – Boulder Stanage Plantation. Snow on the ground and excellent conditions but full of university groups so pottered instead of queuing for stuff
S – Boulder Gardom’s.
Thanks Viking - didn't manage to get into Wirksworth again as got distracted buying a Christmas Tree (it's a Rocky Mountain Pine...just like the ones I ski through/into in the States!). Doing 3 WBLs again this year, though skiing trip in Feb might count me out of the Big Rock one.
1. Wirksworth 25 problems decreasing points from onsight to be completed over 2 week period, 11 rounds
2. Climbing Unit 30 problems decreasing points from onsight to be completed over a 3 hour period (lucky if I get there in time for 1.5 hours) 5 rounds
3. Big Rock 40 problems one point per problem completed with infinite attempts over 4 week period, 4 rounds.
M – 45min boulder blast Brookes before coaching
T – rest
W – rest
T – Boulder Brookes
F – Boulder Big Rock
S – Boulder Stanage Plantation. Snow on the ground and excellent conditions but full of university groups so pottered instead of queuing for stuff
S – Boulder Gardom’s.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Late entry once again. Still didn’t run (won’t do it either this week, going drytooling for the first time tomorrow).
Weight: 70.4kg
M: indoor bouldering, up to 6A+, one flash, rest repeats or own routes, tried a 6B+, but felt weak
T: rest/exam
W: climbing indoors: was busy, started on 6b, got really pumped and fell off at the last clip. Then didn’t manage 6b+, 6c, 6b+ due to pump.
T: rest/school
F: rest/school
S: school & climbing outdoors, spotted a mate first, then he belayed me on a trad 6-, but the crack was really flared and small, so I thought gear was going to be hard, so had crashpads just in case, proved to be a good thing: First trad fall, first gear that ripped and first ground fall.
S: bouldering outdoors, crap session a lot of holds snapped and I stepped into a swamp that just started to thaw.
Late entry once again. Still didn’t run (won’t do it either this week, going drytooling for the first time tomorrow).
Weight: 70.4kg
M: indoor bouldering, up to 6A+, one flash, rest repeats or own routes, tried a 6B+, but felt weak
T: rest/exam
W: climbing indoors: was busy, started on 6b, got really pumped and fell off at the last clip. Then didn’t manage 6b+, 6c, 6b+ due to pump.
T: rest/school
F: rest/school
S: school & climbing outdoors, spotted a mate first, then he belayed me on a trad 6-, but the crack was really flared and small, so I thought gear was going to be hard, so had crashpads just in case, proved to be a good thing: First trad fall, first gear that ripped and first ground fall.
S: bouldering outdoors, crap session a lot of holds snapped and I stepped into a swamp that just started to thaw.
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