UKC

Hi folks,

Have got a Beastmaker 1000 and wondering how to make the best use of it. At the moment, the only holds I can two-handed hang other than the jugs are the deepest pockets, down to just index and middle fingers in the two-finger one (just about). Any specific advice in terms of number of sessions per week and specific content of sessions?

(To clarify, am very well aware that I need to work on technique too(!) but have identified a number of even V2 indoor problems where, even with ideal body positioning and technique, it's finger strength that isn't allowing me to make the move.)

Help much appreciated!

Adam

In reply to adamarchie:

Hi Adam,
Assuming you have the App, start on one of the regimes, say the 5a or 5b. Any of the hold pairs which you can't hang, use one of the big holds and alternate hands each time, so you're using one big hold and one of the difficult holds each time. Another alternative is to follow the hold pairs in the schedule, but allow your tip toes to touch down to take some of your weight. Keep at it, the strength will come.
If you can attach a theraband to the beast maker and the other end to your harness to take some of the weight, this will also help you progress. You'll have to experiment with the length of the band to get the ideal 'help', then gradually wean yourself off it.
I do a couple of sessions a week, and do two complete sets from the App each time, which works for me. It's made drastic improvement in my leading as well as bouldering. Enjoy, and make sure you warm up thoroughly before each session.

In reply to adamarchie:

Adam,

Start with Repeaters. Check out the Beastmaker training page: http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/training
Do at least six sets on whatever holds you can manage. Use an app to help you time your sets. Beastmaker has their own app. I use Hangtimer that I found on the Apple app store.

Thanks guys. Good tips on the theraband and putting the alternate hand on a "better" hold.