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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=629103
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: vimeo.com/146457775 For those who like crackclimbing. Be warned the intro is long.
Mattrm: Bummer that your lungs are still bothering you! Did you get to climb this week or did some dish tucks?
Robin Brooke: Congrats on the 6c & 7a clean! Managed to do more projects this week? Looks like you should include 7a+ as well when ticking the 7a so fast!
AJM: Good you found out what’s stopping your progress. Maybe follow Si dH’s advice and go full on bouldering for a while?
Hms: Nice that despite being busy you managed to get a lot of training done! How where the first 2 days in Chulilla?
Spenser: Did you get a chance to play on a 7a again this week? How was your ankle this week?
Exile: Looked like a nice and varied week! Did you manage training this week while being away with work?
The Ex-Engineer: Congrats with doing Want Out! Did you climbed outdoors again this week? And did you get round to finishing some of the weird blue problems?
TonyB: Bummer that the lake flooded. Does it happen often? Quite disappointing going with the intention of working on a project to find out it is impossible. Did you managed to do some core exercises and stretching this week?
Tyler: Enjoy Margalef! How long are you staying?
Nick Russell: Enjoy your time in the US! Did you run or climb this week? Why are the walls weird over there?
Dandan82: Annoying not to know what is good for the elbows, if even resting doesn’t work.. Hope there was some progression this week! Are you having the scan next week? And did you found some useful articles in the book you bought?
Ian Bell: Good you did core exercises every other day! How were the elbows this week? Managed to do some climbing?
Ally Smith: Some hard bouldering, impressive! How has Chulilla been until now?
Hokkyokusei: Welcome back! How was this weeks training? One of your goals is staying injury free, did you struggle with running related injuries before?
Humperdink: Impressive that you are running every day! Under 31 mins on a 10k is really fast (at least through the eyes of a punter like me). Did you manage to tick the 90 mile mark this week?
Flopsicle: Wow 105 laps on the autobelay that must be a hard one to tick! Did you do some more slabs this week? Nice that your wall has a roped slab! Something that’s missing here, despite 40% of the routes outdoors here are slabby.
Richard Popp: No problem, glad your finger is ok! Did you manage to go bouldering three times this week?
Joyce: Thanks for the advice regarding the chocolate, took it by heart . Sounds like an impressive shed you’re going to build! Did you managed some training this week or were you still recovering?
Just Tintin: Sounds like a cool concept those WBLs, and nice that you are participating in 3 of them! Did you manage to boulder outdoors again this weekend?
0.5viking: get back to training after the exams!
AWOL: planetmarshall
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=629103
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: vimeo.com/146457775 For those who like crackclimbing. Be warned the intro is long.
Mattrm: Bummer that your lungs are still bothering you! Did you get to climb this week or did some dish tucks?
Robin Brooke: Congrats on the 6c & 7a clean! Managed to do more projects this week? Looks like you should include 7a+ as well when ticking the 7a so fast!
AJM: Good you found out what’s stopping your progress. Maybe follow Si dH’s advice and go full on bouldering for a while?
Hms: Nice that despite being busy you managed to get a lot of training done! How where the first 2 days in Chulilla?
Spenser: Did you get a chance to play on a 7a again this week? How was your ankle this week?
Exile: Looked like a nice and varied week! Did you manage training this week while being away with work?
The Ex-Engineer: Congrats with doing Want Out! Did you climbed outdoors again this week? And did you get round to finishing some of the weird blue problems?
TonyB: Bummer that the lake flooded. Does it happen often? Quite disappointing going with the intention of working on a project to find out it is impossible. Did you managed to do some core exercises and stretching this week?
Tyler: Enjoy Margalef! How long are you staying?
Nick Russell: Enjoy your time in the US! Did you run or climb this week? Why are the walls weird over there?
Dandan82: Annoying not to know what is good for the elbows, if even resting doesn’t work.. Hope there was some progression this week! Are you having the scan next week? And did you found some useful articles in the book you bought?
Ian Bell: Good you did core exercises every other day! How were the elbows this week? Managed to do some climbing?
Ally Smith: Some hard bouldering, impressive! How has Chulilla been until now?
Hokkyokusei: Welcome back! How was this weeks training? One of your goals is staying injury free, did you struggle with running related injuries before?
Humperdink: Impressive that you are running every day! Under 31 mins on a 10k is really fast (at least through the eyes of a punter like me). Did you manage to tick the 90 mile mark this week?
Flopsicle: Wow 105 laps on the autobelay that must be a hard one to tick! Did you do some more slabs this week? Nice that your wall has a roped slab! Something that’s missing here, despite 40% of the routes outdoors here are slabby.
Richard Popp: No problem, glad your finger is ok! Did you manage to go bouldering three times this week?
Joyce: Thanks for the advice regarding the chocolate, took it by heart . Sounds like an impressive shed you’re going to build! Did you managed some training this week or were you still recovering?
Just Tintin: Sounds like a cool concept those WBLs, and nice that you are participating in 3 of them! Did you manage to boulder outdoors again this weekend?
0.5viking: get back to training after the exams!
AWOL: planetmarshall
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for doing the stats again Viking. I had a play about on a 7a but the crux was quite low and I didn't really fancy the idea of hitting the ground on rope stretch.
Monday: Trip to wall, top roped 6 routes, did some general training.
Tuesday: Probably did about 5 miles on the bike by the time I got to uni.
Wednesday: Nothing
Thurdsay: Physio
Friday: Physio (Also had an appointment with a physio, I've been told I can start bouldering again but only low stuff so I just did some traversing).
Saturday: Nothing
Sunday: Probably nothing, I've got a lot of MSc essay to write today!
Short term Goal: Continue building strength and working on fitness as much as work etc allow before recommencing normal climbing in January. Top rope 7a at the wall.
Medium Term Goal: Redpoint 7a, headpoint E4
Long Term Goal: Onsight 7a, E4.
I've had to revise my goals a little in light of the feedback from the physio. She was very happy with the range of mobility which I have got in my formerly broken ankle so said I should be ok to lead stuff I am comfortable on or where I won't hit anything if I come off. It will be christmas before I can start properly bouldering on anything hard again by the look of things.
Thanks for doing the stats again Viking. I had a play about on a 7a but the crux was quite low and I didn't really fancy the idea of hitting the ground on rope stretch.
Monday: Trip to wall, top roped 6 routes, did some general training.
Tuesday: Probably did about 5 miles on the bike by the time I got to uni.
Wednesday: Nothing
Thurdsay: Physio
Friday: Physio (Also had an appointment with a physio, I've been told I can start bouldering again but only low stuff so I just did some traversing).
Saturday: Nothing
Sunday: Probably nothing, I've got a lot of MSc essay to write today!
Short term Goal: Continue building strength and working on fitness as much as work etc allow before recommencing normal climbing in January. Top rope 7a at the wall.
Medium Term Goal: Redpoint 7a, headpoint E4
Long Term Goal: Onsight 7a, E4.
I've had to revise my goals a little in light of the feedback from the physio. She was very happy with the range of mobility which I have got in my formerly broken ankle so said I should be ok to lead stuff I am comfortable on or where I won't hit anything if I come off. It will be christmas before I can start properly bouldering on anything hard again by the look of things.
In reply to 0.5viking:
I had intended to do sessions M, W and T but due to work I could only manage T and W instead.
M: Work until half midnight
T: managed to get the last hour at BoulderUK, managed one more V5/6 that I wasn't able to do last week (just by telling myself to pull harder on the crux hold!) before FO campusing for last few mins. Didn't accurately time but I reckon 2 mins should be my benchmark for FO on that board (good low feet make it a bit easier than AWS).
W: AWS probably less than 10 tie ins. Some new routes, OS a 7a+ but dropped a 7a due to cowardlyness and another due to it being impossible! Sent the last remaining recalcitrant 7a from old set toward end of session so pleased with that.
Today I fly to Margalef with a lowered goal of OS 7b
I had intended to do sessions M, W and T but due to work I could only manage T and W instead.
M: Work until half midnight
T: managed to get the last hour at BoulderUK, managed one more V5/6 that I wasn't able to do last week (just by telling myself to pull harder on the crux hold!) before FO campusing for last few mins. Didn't accurately time but I reckon 2 mins should be my benchmark for FO on that board (good low feet make it a bit easier than AWS).
W: AWS probably less than 10 tie ins. Some new routes, OS a 7a+ but dropped a 7a due to cowardlyness and another due to it being impossible! Sent the last remaining recalcitrant 7a from old set toward end of session so pleased with that.
Today I fly to Margalef with a lowered goal of OS 7b
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks Viking. Nice roof crack in the psyche video - one day something like that would be good eh (Separate Reality in Yosemite perhaps)? Enjoy getting back to your training.
Some progress for me this week all indoor - 7a project (Beige/old) clean on Monday (yay!). 7a (Red/old) almost OS on Monday (fell/pumped at penultimate clip), perhaps its soft! Routes re-set by Friday visit so new projects to start trying: 6c+ (Blue), 7a (Beige), and 7a+ (Red).
M: Leading at Castle (upstairs and wells). Onsight/Flash: 5+, 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6b+. Redpoint: 6c (red upstairs - clean 1st repeat). 7a (Beige in wells - clean 1st repeat), 7a (Red in wells - to penultimate clip flash attempt).
T: Rest
W: Finger-board. 2x Supersets of 5sec/5sec x6 then 90sec rest (Jug, 4 finger one pad, sloper, wide grip, 3 finger pinky, small grip, 3 finger middle one pad). -5kg weight.
Th: Theraband Shoulder Stabilization exercises - 15mins.
F: Leading at Castle (upstairs and wells). Onsight/Flash: 6a, 6b, 6b+(x), 6b. Redpoint attempts (new routes): 6c+ (Blue), 7a+ (Red), 7a (Beige) - Blue stopped at dynamic move from poor left hand hold at clip 5. Red surprised myself got to penultimate clip before peeling off with pump. Beige felt the hardest, off three times.
S: Pilates Reformer 60mins. Plus Theraband Shoulder Stabilization exercises - 15mins.
Su: Rest
STG: More 6c+ & 7a RP indoor by xmas + get my Girlfriend recovered from her achilles tendon injury asap! + keep finding new partners.
MTG: 7a & E2 RP/OS in 2016 - long roadtrip in van starting april in spain/france/italy
LTG: 7b & E3 OS - outdoor
Thanks Viking. Nice roof crack in the psyche video - one day something like that would be good eh (Separate Reality in Yosemite perhaps)? Enjoy getting back to your training.
Some progress for me this week all indoor - 7a project (Beige/old) clean on Monday (yay!). 7a (Red/old) almost OS on Monday (fell/pumped at penultimate clip), perhaps its soft! Routes re-set by Friday visit so new projects to start trying: 6c+ (Blue), 7a (Beige), and 7a+ (Red).
M: Leading at Castle (upstairs and wells). Onsight/Flash: 5+, 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6b+. Redpoint: 6c (red upstairs - clean 1st repeat). 7a (Beige in wells - clean 1st repeat), 7a (Red in wells - to penultimate clip flash attempt).
T: Rest
W: Finger-board. 2x Supersets of 5sec/5sec x6 then 90sec rest (Jug, 4 finger one pad, sloper, wide grip, 3 finger pinky, small grip, 3 finger middle one pad). -5kg weight.
Th: Theraband Shoulder Stabilization exercises - 15mins.
F: Leading at Castle (upstairs and wells). Onsight/Flash: 6a, 6b, 6b+(x), 6b. Redpoint attempts (new routes): 6c+ (Blue), 7a+ (Red), 7a (Beige) - Blue stopped at dynamic move from poor left hand hold at clip 5. Red surprised myself got to penultimate clip before peeling off with pump. Beige felt the hardest, off three times.
S: Pilates Reformer 60mins. Plus Theraband Shoulder Stabilization exercises - 15mins.
Su: Rest
STG: More 6c+ & 7a RP indoor by xmas + get my Girlfriend recovered from her achilles tendon injury asap! + keep finding new partners.
MTG: 7a & E2 RP/OS in 2016 - long roadtrip in van starting april in spain/france/italy
LTG: 7b & E3 OS - outdoor
Post edited at 11:22
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - Climb outside again...
Weight - 12st 4lbs
M - Core
T - Indoor climbing
W - S - DIY
Monthly Avg - 17%
Yearly Avg - 61%
Got back to the wall at the start of the week. Nearly scraped up a 6b which was nice. So the old lungs aren't stuffing up the climbing. It's just everything else. I'll probably go back to the GP after christmas and see if I can try some different meds. Also the DIY is finally getting to the end. I'm nearly done on the big (and dusty) jobs. So hopefully we'll be able to get the house cleaner soon. Also got a bit of weight off, hope stay around this level over christmas.
Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - Climb outside again...
Weight - 12st 4lbs
M - Core
T - Indoor climbing
W - S - DIY
Monthly Avg - 17%
Yearly Avg - 61%
Got back to the wall at the start of the week. Nearly scraped up a 6b which was nice. So the old lungs aren't stuffing up the climbing. It's just everything else. I'll probably go back to the GP after christmas and see if I can try some different meds. Also the DIY is finally getting to the end. I'm nearly done on the big (and dusty) jobs. So hopefully we'll be able to get the house cleaner soon. Also got a bit of weight off, hope stay around this level over christmas.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for the stats again Viking. Yep, managed two runs, a hike and a climb, as expected. Enough to keep me ticking over during my holiday.
At US walls, you have to pass a belay test to toprope and then another one to be allowed to lead. A lot of walls have in-situ grigris for the topropes so you're not allowed to use your own belay device. This wall didn't have that rule, but it did forbid climbers from using their own ropes for leading. We had to borrow one of theirs (at least there was no change).
Leading seems to be perceived as an 'advanced' skill, so is less common than back at home, and consequently there seem to be topropes on even steadily overhanging panels. I wouldn't have fancied the swing (and deck potential) from falling low down on some of them!
M - Nothing
T - 8.5km run
W - Nothing
T - 8 mile hike in Shenandoah national park, really beautiful (and the climbing looks quite good too!)
F - 9.5km run
S - Nothing
S - Indoor routes + bouldering.
When I get back (Wendesday), I think I'll be mainly on the bouldering for the rest of the year. Not feeling particularly psyched on indoor routes at the moment, bouldering seems like a more attractive option. I think I need to get some regular core sessions in too. You can never have too much core.
edit - I forgot Friday's run!
> Nick Russell: Enjoy your time in the US! Did you run or climb this week? Why are the walls weird over there?
Thanks for the stats again Viking. Yep, managed two runs, a hike and a climb, as expected. Enough to keep me ticking over during my holiday.
At US walls, you have to pass a belay test to toprope and then another one to be allowed to lead. A lot of walls have in-situ grigris for the topropes so you're not allowed to use your own belay device. This wall didn't have that rule, but it did forbid climbers from using their own ropes for leading. We had to borrow one of theirs (at least there was no change).
Leading seems to be perceived as an 'advanced' skill, so is less common than back at home, and consequently there seem to be topropes on even steadily overhanging panels. I wouldn't have fancied the swing (and deck potential) from falling low down on some of them!
M - Nothing
T - 8.5km run
W - Nothing
T - 8 mile hike in Shenandoah national park, really beautiful (and the climbing looks quite good too!)
F - 9.5km run
S - Nothing
S - Indoor routes + bouldering.
When I get back (Wendesday), I think I'll be mainly on the bouldering for the rest of the year. Not feeling particularly psyched on indoor routes at the moment, bouldering seems like a more attractive option. I think I need to get some regular core sessions in too. You can never have too much core.
edit - I forgot Friday's run!
Post edited at 21:08
In reply to 0.5viking:
Hi,
I think Rubicon floods fairly often in winter. It also gets very muddy, which isn't great with the mats. It was a rest week for me so fairly uninspiring report.
Mon - travel
Tue - travel
Wed- travel
Thur - social bouldering
Fri - core + shoulder stability
Sat - rest
Sun - social routes, core and shoulder stability.
Today I went climbing at the Northampton wall for the first time and was really impressed. I didn't do as well as I hoped but I had an enjoyable session. 100% success rate on onsights in the 6's. 1 success out of 3 attempts at onsighting 7a's and a failed attempt to onsight 7b.
I thought the video on UKC by Robbie Philips and the links from it were good (especially about goal setting). It also made me realize that I'd concentrated a lot on my physical performance (almost exclusively training at the boulder wall) but hadn't spent much time on a rope. I think my comfort range when lead climbing is narrower than it should be. I'm going to try and set more specific goals for December with regards to focusing on spending more time leading.
STG
1 get out on rock 5 times in Dec (have 3 days in El Chorro coming up)
2 get 6 sessions leading in Dec
3 onsight 3x 7a's in Dec (indoors or out)
4 complete 20 V4-V5 problems in 25 mins.
Hi,
I think Rubicon floods fairly often in winter. It also gets very muddy, which isn't great with the mats. It was a rest week for me so fairly uninspiring report.
Mon - travel
Tue - travel
Wed- travel
Thur - social bouldering
Fri - core + shoulder stability
Sat - rest
Sun - social routes, core and shoulder stability.
Today I went climbing at the Northampton wall for the first time and was really impressed. I didn't do as well as I hoped but I had an enjoyable session. 100% success rate on onsights in the 6's. 1 success out of 3 attempts at onsighting 7a's and a failed attempt to onsight 7b.
I thought the video on UKC by Robbie Philips and the links from it were good (especially about goal setting). It also made me realize that I'd concentrated a lot on my physical performance (almost exclusively training at the boulder wall) but hadn't spent much time on a rope. I think my comfort range when lead climbing is narrower than it should be. I'm going to try and set more specific goals for December with regards to focusing on spending more time leading.
STG
1 get out on rock 5 times in Dec (have 3 days in El Chorro coming up)
2 get 6 sessions leading in Dec
3 onsight 3x 7a's in Dec (indoors or out)
4 complete 20 V4-V5 problems in 25 mins.
In reply to 0.5viking:
M - rest. Day trip to Portland on Sunday left me feeling surprisingly tired.
T - Boulder @ Brookes. Long session working problems. Strong crowd around so loads of good beta available. Worked two new reds and then got the blue tag with the dyno start.Took a proper fall touching the last hold on the one with the scary heel hock finish.
W - Boulder @ Brookes. Short session on the circuit board then managed to tick the last red in the front room (5/5) with some technical and tenuous moves.
T - Yoga then later Routes & Boulder @ Brookes. A few routes then a slightly more successful short session working the last few blue tag blocs. Got the awkward green after several big falls of the last large volume then got the other green with the heel hock finish second go. [1x blue (mantle), 3x reds now left in the back room.]
F - rest
S - Lead Comp @ Reading. Surprisingly low turn out but quality route setting. Flashed 6b+ & 6c, miserable fail low down on 7a (got it 2nd go) but flashed the 7b to qualify as top veteran. Topped out on the final route c.7a+ despite taking about 5 attempts to clip the lower-off. That was good enough for a share of first place in the veterans category!
S - rest
Another steady week and probably the first time since '08 or '09 since I've flashed indoor 7b. Think I need to step things up again this week and make an effort to squeeze in another day outdoors.
> The Ex-Engineer: Congrats with doing Want Out!
Thanks.> Did you climbed outdoors again this week?
Unfortunately not, I ended up going to the Petzl Lead Comp at Reading Wall yesterday. However I am potentially thinking about Winspit on Tuesday if I can find a partner/s.> And did you get round to finishing some of the weird blue problems?
Yes M - rest. Day trip to Portland on Sunday left me feeling surprisingly tired.
T - Boulder @ Brookes. Long session working problems. Strong crowd around so loads of good beta available. Worked two new reds and then got the blue tag with the dyno start.Took a proper fall touching the last hold on the one with the scary heel hock finish.
W - Boulder @ Brookes. Short session on the circuit board then managed to tick the last red in the front room (5/5) with some technical and tenuous moves.
T - Yoga then later Routes & Boulder @ Brookes. A few routes then a slightly more successful short session working the last few blue tag blocs. Got the awkward green after several big falls of the last large volume then got the other green with the heel hock finish second go. [1x blue (mantle), 3x reds now left in the back room.]
F - rest
S - Lead Comp @ Reading. Surprisingly low turn out but quality route setting. Flashed 6b+ & 6c, miserable fail low down on 7a (got it 2nd go) but flashed the 7b to qualify as top veteran. Topped out on the final route c.7a+ despite taking about 5 attempts to clip the lower-off. That was good enough for a share of first place in the veterans category!
S - rest
Another steady week and probably the first time since '08 or '09 since I've flashed indoor 7b. Think I need to step things up again this week and make an effort to squeeze in another day outdoors.
Post edited at 21:30
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for the welcome, and thanks for doing keeping this going. Yeah, I've always struggled with injuries since I started running and always ended up injured in autumn and putting on weight over the winter. About a year ago I discovered I had one leg longer than the other (my shorter, left leg was the one that was always injured) and got some orthotics made for my shoes. I also started doing a training session targetted specifically at runners that focuses on plyometrics and core strength and so far, it's working!
This week was good, but not exactly typical:
M - Two hours of plyometric drills, core & circuit training
T - Commuted to work on the bike 5k each way. Structured training with the running club, about 8k in all.
W - Commuted to work on the bike 5k each way. 6.7k trail run.
T - Went mad and ran (well, the flat and downhill bits!) a very wind, foggy Yorkshire Three Peaks with a mate (though he bailed out at Chapel-le-Dale). About 40k in just over six hours.
F - Rest, well I could scarcely walk.
S - Rest
S - 6k hilly, slow, run on what felt like wooden legs!
This month I've cycled 83k and run 174k (with 4200m of ascent) and I'm very happy with that!
> Hokkyokusei: Welcome back! How was this weeks training? One of your goals is staying injury free, did you struggle with running related injuries before?
Thanks for the welcome, and thanks for doing keeping this going. Yeah, I've always struggled with injuries since I started running and always ended up injured in autumn and putting on weight over the winter. About a year ago I discovered I had one leg longer than the other (my shorter, left leg was the one that was always injured) and got some orthotics made for my shoes. I also started doing a training session targetted specifically at runners that focuses on plyometrics and core strength and so far, it's working!
This week was good, but not exactly typical:
M - Two hours of plyometric drills, core & circuit training
T - Commuted to work on the bike 5k each way. Structured training with the running club, about 8k in all.
W - Commuted to work on the bike 5k each way. 6.7k trail run.
T - Went mad and ran (well, the flat and downhill bits!) a very wind, foggy Yorkshire Three Peaks with a mate (though he bailed out at Chapel-le-Dale). About 40k in just over six hours.
F - Rest, well I could scarcely walk.
S - Rest
S - 6k hilly, slow, run on what felt like wooden legs!
This month I've cycled 83k and run 174k (with 4200m of ascent) and I'm very happy with that!
In reply to 0.5viking:
Cheers for statting it up Viking.
Nothing from me last week as in Thailand. Having a look at crazy horse buttress in Chiang mai didn't come off so nothing done.
This week had a days dws at tonsai. Lovely day out. Didn't push it hard and did about 7 or 8 routes up to 6c. Some great routes at that grade. The harder ones seemed to start on the unpleasant, sharp, wet, steep ground just above the sea. Didn't fancy them. Bit sad to see that tonsai is basically a smelly shit hole. Piles of stinking rubbish everywhere and below par accommodation compared to what we'd experienced before.
Just waiting for ferry to Phuket before flying home tomorrow.
Cheers for statting it up Viking.
Nothing from me last week as in Thailand. Having a look at crazy horse buttress in Chiang mai didn't come off so nothing done.
This week had a days dws at tonsai. Lovely day out. Didn't push it hard and did about 7 or 8 routes up to 6c. Some great routes at that grade. The harder ones seemed to start on the unpleasant, sharp, wet, steep ground just above the sea. Didn't fancy them. Bit sad to see that tonsai is basically a smelly shit hole. Piles of stinking rubbish everywhere and below par accommodation compared to what we'd experienced before.
Just waiting for ferry to Phuket before flying home tomorrow.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Morning all
STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year). Looking tough after about a month off but will keep it as a goal.
MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
No climbing this week as I continued resting the elbows. Did see the physio on Weds who told me I should be OK in a week or so, feeling better after doing the exercises proscribed so hopefully he's correct.
Continued doing the core at least every other day and doing shoulder theraband exercises, somewhat offset by a massive drinking weekend as I caught up with some friends.
Aiming for a bit of swimming this coming week and then hopefully light climbing at the end of the week.
Morning all
STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year). Looking tough after about a month off but will keep it as a goal.
MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
No climbing this week as I continued resting the elbows. Did see the physio on Weds who told me I should be OK in a week or so, feeling better after doing the exercises proscribed so hopefully he's correct.
Continued doing the core at least every other day and doing shoulder theraband exercises, somewhat offset by a massive drinking weekend as I caught up with some friends.
Aiming for a bit of swimming this coming week and then hopefully light climbing at the end of the week.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks Viking, no miraculous tales of recovery yet but things at least aren't getting any worse, things feel better after a session of warming, massaging, mobilising and stretching but then usually feel stiff and sore again every morning, some movements feel slightly better, others just as bad, it's hard to tell.
At least this week I managed to avoid any single stupid moments where I suddenly think it's a good idea to dig some foundations or help move a piano up 3 flights of stairs, so I haven't set myself back any further.
Scan is next Tuesday, I'm not sure it will really help in any way, I know what is wrong already, but you can never have too much information I guess.
The week consisted of one core session and one S+C session and lots of massaging.
> Dandan82: Annoying not to know what is good for the elbows, if even resting doesn’t work.. Hope there was some progression this week! Are you having the scan next week? And did you found some useful articles in the book you bought?
Thanks Viking, no miraculous tales of recovery yet but things at least aren't getting any worse, things feel better after a session of warming, massaging, mobilising and stretching but then usually feel stiff and sore again every morning, some movements feel slightly better, others just as bad, it's hard to tell.
At least this week I managed to avoid any single stupid moments where I suddenly think it's a good idea to dig some foundations or help move a piano up 3 flights of stairs, so I haven't set myself back any further.
Scan is next Tuesday, I'm not sure it will really help in any way, I know what is wrong already, but you can never have too much information I guess.
The week consisted of one core session and one S+C session and lots of massaging.
In reply to 0.5viking: Hi, little to add from me, had short session on Tuesady which tougher than usual and by midday the next day I was heading home to bed-where I have stayed feeling wiped out. Bit better today but not 100% yet.
Thanks for stats
Rich
Thanks for stats
Rich
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
.Took a proper fall touching the last hold on the one with the scary heel hock finish.
Sorry - is that the one I set in the back corner? :0(
.Took a proper fall touching the last hold on the one with the scary heel hock finish.
Sorry - is that the one I set in the back corner? :0(
In reply to 0.5viking:
I'm back after taking a break from climbing this year, in fact I've only climbed a handful of times and it's been nice to have the break from it.
Goals: Just loose at the moment such as get out over winter, ease back into bouldering, get in some trad/sport mileage when possible etc.
M: Rest
T: 1.5hrs bike sweetspot intervals / 1.5hrs Brazilian Jiu Jitsu
W: Rest
T: 1.5hrs Brazilian Jiu Jitsu
F: 1hr bike sweetspot intervals
S: 2hr walk
S: 2hr walk
Current fitness levels: 138 lbs and dropped a lot of muscle / strength from lack of bouldering but riding and BJJ have kept me fit. BJJ has helped with core and movement skills.
I'm back after taking a break from climbing this year, in fact I've only climbed a handful of times and it's been nice to have the break from it.
Goals: Just loose at the moment such as get out over winter, ease back into bouldering, get in some trad/sport mileage when possible etc.
M: Rest
T: 1.5hrs bike sweetspot intervals / 1.5hrs Brazilian Jiu Jitsu
W: Rest
T: 1.5hrs Brazilian Jiu Jitsu
F: 1hr bike sweetspot intervals
S: 2hr walk
S: 2hr walk
Current fitness levels: 138 lbs and dropped a lot of muscle / strength from lack of bouldering but riding and BJJ have kept me fit. BJJ has helped with core and movement skills.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Cheers. We've finally sorted our winter and spring holiday plans to some extent now and it looks pretty big on bouldering (albarracin and bishop), although I have managed to stick some roped climbing (wildside) in there somewhere too. And hopefully this means my holidays for later in the year can be more rope focused.
Chulilla was good although my arm played up so no significant ticks. Need to write the beta down for the 7c+ I tried before I forget so that I can crush it next time.
Rehab and training over the next few weeks. Time to get strong...
> AJM: Good you found out what’s stopping your progress. Maybe follow Si dH’s advice and go full on bouldering for a while?
Cheers. We've finally sorted our winter and spring holiday plans to some extent now and it looks pretty big on bouldering (albarracin and bishop), although I have managed to stick some roped climbing (wildside) in there somewhere too. And hopefully this means my holidays for later in the year can be more rope focused.
Chulilla was good although my arm played up so no significant ticks. Need to write the beta down for the 7c+ I tried before I forget so that I can crush it next time.
Rehab and training over the next few weeks. Time to get strong...
1
In reply to 0.5viking:
Wobbly knee, nor sleep deprivation held me back in Spain – I frickin’ love on-sighting Euro stamina routes!
I’ll come back with some more focused goals for new year; in the meantime:
STG (next week)
- Sleep more
- Continued rehab
- Maintain gradual weight loss/sub 75 kg
- 2x week core sessions – proper Randall beastings
Last week:
M - FOC aero-power test in the garden; 311s PB top value and perfect 25% an-cap. Decline a little steeper than preferred, but couldn’t really ask for more with the trip just around the corner. Knee still sore.
T-T - Crazy busy with work, life, cracking pistachios, etc.
F - Chulilla! 7b+ retro-flash warm-up then 7c OS. Felt bolx’d by mid afternoon.
S - Busiest I’ve ever seen Chulilla; 6c+ OS warm-up. Montana Magica, 8a+/b dog, then 1st RP success. Reet good fight on the headwall. El Bufa 7c+/8a flashy OS to warm-down.
S - Techy 7a+ flash warm-up. Agente Naranja 8a OS – fought hard for the lower 7c bit then got some great flow on the crux of the extension. Steady 7c OS warm-down. Another lap of the 7b+ to fetch draws. Most of a pint of red wine on an empty stomach – ably encouraged by AJM – had an entertaining effect!
M - 4th day on – slow start. 7a+ OS, epic 55m 7b OS skipping multiple bolts as I didn’t take enough draws and the 75m rope wasn’t really long enough to get down either! After some hanging around, I went for an OS burn on a 7c+, but got on the wrong route and accidentally had my first 8b OS attempt! Amazingly it didn’t go too badly as I really thought I was just on a very cruxy 7c+. Came down, then did the 7c+ (El diablo viste del prana) I meant to do OS. Late night travelling home; now feel totally wiped out having had 5 hours sleep before working London today.
Weight – unknown – AJM and hms decribed my physique as “under healthy” when I climbed topless – I’ll take that as a good sign ;-o
Wobbly knee, nor sleep deprivation held me back in Spain – I frickin’ love on-sighting Euro stamina routes!
I’ll come back with some more focused goals for new year; in the meantime:
STG (next week)
- Sleep more
- Continued rehab
- Maintain gradual weight loss/sub 75 kg
- 2x week core sessions – proper Randall beastings
Last week:
M - FOC aero-power test in the garden; 311s PB top value and perfect 25% an-cap. Decline a little steeper than preferred, but couldn’t really ask for more with the trip just around the corner. Knee still sore.
T-T - Crazy busy with work, life, cracking pistachios, etc.
F - Chulilla! 7b+ retro-flash warm-up then 7c OS. Felt bolx’d by mid afternoon.
S - Busiest I’ve ever seen Chulilla; 6c+ OS warm-up. Montana Magica, 8a+/b dog, then 1st RP success. Reet good fight on the headwall. El Bufa 7c+/8a flashy OS to warm-down.
S - Techy 7a+ flash warm-up. Agente Naranja 8a OS – fought hard for the lower 7c bit then got some great flow on the crux of the extension. Steady 7c OS warm-down. Another lap of the 7b+ to fetch draws. Most of a pint of red wine on an empty stomach – ably encouraged by AJM – had an entertaining effect!
M - 4th day on – slow start. 7a+ OS, epic 55m 7b OS skipping multiple bolts as I didn’t take enough draws and the 75m rope wasn’t really long enough to get down either! After some hanging around, I went for an OS burn on a 7c+, but got on the wrong route and accidentally had my first 8b OS attempt! Amazingly it didn’t go too badly as I really thought I was just on a very cruxy 7c+. Came down, then did the 7c+ (El diablo viste del prana) I meant to do OS. Late night travelling home; now feel totally wiped out having had 5 hours sleep before working London today.
Weight – unknown – AJM and hms decribed my physique as “under healthy” when I climbed topless – I’ll take that as a good sign ;-o
In reply to Ally Smith:
The rope must be 80m still when stretched out and is almost exactly the right length to the millimetre!
No point paying for rope you don't use!
The rope must be 80m still when stretched out and is almost exactly the right length to the millimetre!
No point paying for rope you don't use!
1
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks Viking. Had a good time in Chulilla, but could have done without the cold I went out with taking a distinct turn for the worse. Certainly affected what I managed to get done.
M - cycle commute
T - cycle commute. Routes in evening, taking it a bit gently as sore throat had started.
W - cycle commute. Fingerboard in evening. Worse sore throat.
T - drove to work as still feeling dodgy.
F - flight to Valencia. Chulilla, 6b+ then 7a OS.
S - Chulilla. 6b+ then try on a 7c+ but got shut down 1/3 of the way up. Walked to another sector. Turned out to be a very long walk indeed so arrived v tired. Tried a 7b+ but pumped almost before I'd started.
S - Chulilla. Felt really really ill and needed a shed load of pharmacuticals to get moving. 6b, 7a OS, 2 good goes on the 7b+ but no cigar although I got decently high up it.
M - Chulilla. Still feeling rubbish. 7a 2nd go (not a good warm up as it's got a couple of spooky moves around clip 4 which aren't good for the head), then 7a OS.
Pleased with the 7a OS count. Shame I didn't get any bigger ticks but win some, lose some. Super venue, love it!
Thanks Viking. Had a good time in Chulilla, but could have done without the cold I went out with taking a distinct turn for the worse. Certainly affected what I managed to get done.
M - cycle commute
T - cycle commute. Routes in evening, taking it a bit gently as sore throat had started.
W - cycle commute. Fingerboard in evening. Worse sore throat.
T - drove to work as still feeling dodgy.
F - flight to Valencia. Chulilla, 6b+ then 7a OS.
S - Chulilla. 6b+ then try on a 7c+ but got shut down 1/3 of the way up. Walked to another sector. Turned out to be a very long walk indeed so arrived v tired. Tried a 7b+ but pumped almost before I'd started.
S - Chulilla. Felt really really ill and needed a shed load of pharmacuticals to get moving. 6b, 7a OS, 2 good goes on the 7b+ but no cigar although I got decently high up it.
M - Chulilla. Still feeling rubbish. 7a 2nd go (not a good warm up as it's got a couple of spooky moves around clip 4 which aren't good for the head), then 7a OS.
Pleased with the 7a OS count. Shame I didn't get any bigger ticks but win some, lose some. Super venue, love it!
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks again for doing the thread Viking! I didn't get on the slabs much this week as I had another friend just starting and that soaked up some time. The friend who started in July is still at it and brought along a workmate, who is also still at it, so if this one sticks at it then I'll have 3 out of 3 intro to clambering about. I'd be well chuffed.
Anyway onwards!
Mon - 2 mile hilly run
Tues - 2 mile hilly run
Wed - 2 mile hilly run + lead climbing, took it steady as my elbow was sore
Thurs - 3.4 mile hilly run, cycled to bouldering at Depot - nothing special, down in the dumps so left
Fri - 1 mile run 'cos I fell over again! Smacked my knees again but not quite as hard as in July. Started my very best mate off climbing (took a while to get her there!!). I did some climbs as there was a group of 4 of us and the other 2 wanted a few demos on routes they're a bit stuck with. I also did some laps before people arrived. Everyone happy and wanting to repeat on Sunday.
Sat - Played at the wall while munchkin had her NICAS grp. Good fun, no pressure, just good fun.
Sun - 2 mile hilly run - bit reserved after falling on Fri. Climbing was a repeat on fri with the exception of starting off the mate who started in July with leading - then made use of the rope to have a pop at a route I couldn't lead on last attempt. I got a good 30 mins proper climbing (ie chuffin' strugglin'!).
So that was the week that was....
Thanks again for doing the thread Viking! I didn't get on the slabs much this week as I had another friend just starting and that soaked up some time. The friend who started in July is still at it and brought along a workmate, who is also still at it, so if this one sticks at it then I'll have 3 out of 3 intro to clambering about. I'd be well chuffed.
Anyway onwards!
Mon - 2 mile hilly run
Tues - 2 mile hilly run
Wed - 2 mile hilly run + lead climbing, took it steady as my elbow was sore
Thurs - 3.4 mile hilly run, cycled to bouldering at Depot - nothing special, down in the dumps so left
Fri - 1 mile run 'cos I fell over again! Smacked my knees again but not quite as hard as in July. Started my very best mate off climbing (took a while to get her there!!). I did some climbs as there was a group of 4 of us and the other 2 wanted a few demos on routes they're a bit stuck with. I also did some laps before people arrived. Everyone happy and wanting to repeat on Sunday.
Sat - Played at the wall while munchkin had her NICAS grp. Good fun, no pressure, just good fun.
Sun - 2 mile hilly run - bit reserved after falling on Fri. Climbing was a repeat on fri with the exception of starting off the mate who started in July with leading - then made use of the rope to have a pop at a route I couldn't lead on last attempt. I got a good 30 mins proper climbing (ie chuffin' strugglin'!).
So that was the week that was....
Post edited at 15:57
In reply to 0.5viking:
Cheers Viking, sub 31 has been my target for a while now hopefully might just sneak under if everything goes right!
M: v cold but sunny - had the day off work so did the long run I should have done the previous day am - 16M in 1:51:09 felt like I was going well and finished strong.
Tu: am - 10/11M in 67:52, pm - 4/5M in 29:21 put back session until Weds due to long run on Mon
W: am - 4/5M in 30:17, pm - Road session 6 x (3min, 1min jog, 2.5min) 2 min between sets. Ran well but my stomach was really painful during the session could have been cramps or just that I was hungry either way it hurt, 12/13M total
Th: am - 2/3M in 16:04, pm - 6M in 42:21
F: am - 7/8M in 51:26 then went to a wedding. Was very good and only drank a bit
Sa: Tired! pm - Cross country session on a muddy/hilly loop - 5 x 8min with 90seconds jog between reps. Felt pretty good again 12/13M total
Su: am - still tired did 2hrs easy 16/17M
Total ~90M so managed to hit that target and had a couple of good sessions so happy with that.
Cheers Viking, sub 31 has been my target for a while now hopefully might just sneak under if everything goes right!
M: v cold but sunny - had the day off work so did the long run I should have done the previous day am - 16M in 1:51:09 felt like I was going well and finished strong.
Tu: am - 10/11M in 67:52, pm - 4/5M in 29:21 put back session until Weds due to long run on Mon
W: am - 4/5M in 30:17, pm - Road session 6 x (3min, 1min jog, 2.5min) 2 min between sets. Ran well but my stomach was really painful during the session could have been cramps or just that I was hungry either way it hurt, 12/13M total
Th: am - 2/3M in 16:04, pm - 6M in 42:21
F: am - 7/8M in 51:26 then went to a wedding. Was very good and only drank a bit
Sa: Tired! pm - Cross country session on a muddy/hilly loop - 5 x 8min with 90seconds jog between reps. Felt pretty good again 12/13M total
Su: am - still tired did 2hrs easy 16/17M
Total ~90M so managed to hit that target and had a couple of good sessions so happy with that.
Post edited at 21:07
In reply to 0.5viking:
Forgive me father for I have sinned. It has been 353 weeks since my last post (Feb 27, 2009).
Not really done much climbing for the past 4 years. Done a bit of cycling (Lands End to Jon O'Groats being a highlight)
Current Fitness level: About average. The usual time ghouls have been sucking away. Work, Family, etc.
Goal: Bit of a Cliche but ... The Matterhorn
Getting there: Maintain good aerobic fitness with lots of cardio work. Hilly cycling, Hill walking and Scrambling. Augment with some bouldering.
Possible problems: Occasional knee pain can prevent training.
Last week: Just a 32km cycle on Sunday
Hopefully it won't be another 6.5 years before my next post!
Forgive me father for I have sinned. It has been 353 weeks since my last post (Feb 27, 2009).
Not really done much climbing for the past 4 years. Done a bit of cycling (Lands End to Jon O'Groats being a highlight)
Current Fitness level: About average. The usual time ghouls have been sucking away. Work, Family, etc.
Goal: Bit of a Cliche but ... The Matterhorn
Getting there: Maintain good aerobic fitness with lots of cardio work. Hilly cycling, Hill walking and Scrambling. Augment with some bouldering.
Possible problems: Occasional knee pain can prevent training.
Last week: Just a 32km cycle on Sunday
Hopefully it won't be another 6.5 years before my next post!
In reply to James Moyle:
Wow, I rejoined recently after a long break (2011-2015) but your break is even more impressive.
Wow, I rejoined recently after a long break (2011-2015) but your break is even more impressive.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Morning Campers,
Ta muchly Mr (that's 0.5 of a V, right there - ahem). We can big each other up on our training journeys this winter! The ol' Supershed wall is gonna be awesome, can't wait to get it constructed over Christmas!
Training Diary WC 23/11/15
Slow but steady.
Monday – DIY
Tuesday – Rest – still don’t feel great.
Wednesday – Easy run – 5.3km in 26:24 at 4:58m/km pace. GAP 4:49m/km as 91m of ascent. Definitely still clearing this ol’ cold out as didn’t feel like I could push. Will take it easy and ease back into it all.
Thursday – TCA – took it steady. Had a loose plan to climb all of the new Green F5-6B circuit in an evening but only managed 19/22 tried of the 29 or 30 in the set as I definitely lacked oomph and general stamina. Most were onsighted or climbed within 4 goes. Still, great to have a session with no pressure to perform and to concentrate on moving well/technique.
Friday – Built a 750kg oak planter in the rain and darkness.
Saturday – DIY all day except for…TCA – felt a bit better. Finished off the other Greens, mostly onsight or first go if failed on on Thursday. Then got tried some new Oranges (F6B to F7B) with Tom, Dave (Luke) and Keith. A really fun, encouraging session and 4 in the bag including one flash. Back in the game!
Sunday – DIY all day. Then, Easy Run with Tom in the dark – 5.6km in 29:05 at 5:09m/km pace. GAP 4:50m/km as 140m of ascent. After the rain, on and off road.
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+ - nope.
Slopers, slopers, slopers, heel hooks (and other weaknesses) – oh yeah, and going well/less bad – more please.
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’ (nope - wet).
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability - nope.
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff - nope. At least one BM session a week – nope. Core stuff: 3 core sessions – tick.
Weight = 70.1kg
Will think about goals soon but my main focus for this winter is to build stamina and power endurance for Spring success on The Loop while continuing to work on my technique, sloperaging (technical sloper climbing luddite term there) and periods of strength and an-cap work as well as hammering that poor ol' core.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Ta muchly Mr (that's 0.5 of a V, right there - ahem). We can big each other up on our training journeys this winter! The ol' Supershed wall is gonna be awesome, can't wait to get it constructed over Christmas!
Training Diary WC 23/11/15
Slow but steady.
Monday – DIY
Tuesday – Rest – still don’t feel great.
Wednesday – Easy run – 5.3km in 26:24 at 4:58m/km pace. GAP 4:49m/km as 91m of ascent. Definitely still clearing this ol’ cold out as didn’t feel like I could push. Will take it easy and ease back into it all.
Thursday – TCA – took it steady. Had a loose plan to climb all of the new Green F5-6B circuit in an evening but only managed 19/22 tried of the 29 or 30 in the set as I definitely lacked oomph and general stamina. Most were onsighted or climbed within 4 goes. Still, great to have a session with no pressure to perform and to concentrate on moving well/technique.
Friday – Built a 750kg oak planter in the rain and darkness.
Saturday – DIY all day except for…TCA – felt a bit better. Finished off the other Greens, mostly onsight or first go if failed on on Thursday. Then got tried some new Oranges (F6B to F7B) with Tom, Dave (Luke) and Keith. A really fun, encouraging session and 4 in the bag including one flash. Back in the game!
Sunday – DIY all day. Then, Easy Run with Tom in the dark – 5.6km in 29:05 at 5:09m/km pace. GAP 4:50m/km as 140m of ascent. After the rain, on and off road.
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+ - nope.
Slopers, slopers, slopers, heel hooks (and other weaknesses) – oh yeah, and going well/less bad – more please.
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’ (nope - wet).
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability - nope.
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff - nope. At least one BM session a week – nope. Core stuff: 3 core sessions – tick.
Weight = 70.1kg
Will think about goals soon but my main focus for this winter is to build stamina and power endurance for Spring success on The Loop while continuing to work on my technique, sloperaging (technical sloper climbing luddite term there) and periods of strength and an-cap work as well as hammering that poor ol' core.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for doing fit club again.
Not bad training this week
2015 aims:
Winter2015 / 16 Consolidate VI 7.
Spring / early Summer 2016: A couple more 7b RPs and OS 6c
Summer 2016 OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: pm, 1hr 30min linked up - down - up on the 45 degree woody for the first time - 18 hand movements. (Top end power endurance)
T: Rest / travel with work
W: 45min road run (Winter endurance)
T: 45min road run (Winter endurance)
F: am, 1hr 30min up - down - up on the 45 degree woody reps - 18 hand movements. (Top end power endurance)
S: Rest
S: am, 1hr 30min 4 - 6 move problems. (Power)
Felt tired towards the end of the week
Thanks for doing fit club again.
Not bad training this week
2015 aims:
Winter2015 / 16 Consolidate VI 7.
Spring / early Summer 2016: A couple more 7b RPs and OS 6c
Summer 2016 OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: pm, 1hr 30min linked up - down - up on the 45 degree woody for the first time - 18 hand movements. (Top end power endurance)
T: Rest / travel with work
W: 45min road run (Winter endurance)
T: 45min road run (Winter endurance)
F: am, 1hr 30min up - down - up on the 45 degree woody reps - 18 hand movements. (Top end power endurance)
S: Rest
S: am, 1hr 30min 4 - 6 move problems. (Power)
Felt tired towards the end of the week
In reply to 0.5viking:
I've been deferring replying as I had a terrible training week last week, and now I'm coming down with something this week, so it's all going to look terrible and I'm pretty grumpy!
Last week: 2 puny sessions.
M - coaching
T - nothing
W - 1 hr yoga. Antagonists bench press.
T - nothing
F - coaching at comp - one of my kids came 2nd in Youth B, which was nice.
S - visiting new nephew. Lots of driving no training.
S - Boudler Big Rock. Work in the afternoon.
I've been deferring replying as I had a terrible training week last week, and now I'm coming down with something this week, so it's all going to look terrible and I'm pretty grumpy!
Last week: 2 puny sessions.
M - coaching
T - nothing
W - 1 hr yoga. Antagonists bench press.
T - nothing
F - coaching at comp - one of my kids came 2nd in Youth B, which was nice.
S - visiting new nephew. Lots of driving no training.
S - Boudler Big Rock. Work in the afternoon.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Still busy with exams, but feel they´re going well.
Weight: 70.1kg
M: indoor bouldering, felt weak so decided to enjoy roped climbing and onsighted to 6+s.
T: rest/exam
W: indoor climbing, routes up to 6a focusing on technique and rest positions
T: indoor bouldering, warmed up with autobelay and two leads, then went on bouldering on the comp problems from the previous day, managed to flash up to 6A+, except for one, which I slipped off the start the whole time, but it did go first try after brushing.
F: rest/school
S: rest/school
S: Tried drytooling for the first time, liked it a lot, so much actually that I signed up for a comp when I´m back in the Netherlands.
Still busy with exams, but feel they´re going well.
Weight: 70.1kg
M: indoor bouldering, felt weak so decided to enjoy roped climbing and onsighted to 6+s.
T: rest/exam
W: indoor climbing, routes up to 6a focusing on technique and rest positions
T: indoor bouldering, warmed up with autobelay and two leads, then went on bouldering on the comp problems from the previous day, managed to flash up to 6A+, except for one, which I slipped off the start the whole time, but it did go first try after brushing.
F: rest/school
S: rest/school
S: Tried drytooling for the first time, liked it a lot, so much actually that I signed up for a comp when I´m back in the Netherlands.
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