UKC

NEWS: Demencia senil, 9a+, 2,5f go by Alex Megos

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 UKC News 29 Nov 2015
Alex Megos on Demencia senil, 9a+, Margalef, Spain, 5 kbAlex Megos has been to Margalef, Spain, where he did Demencia senil, 9a+, second and a half go*, and onsighted Victimes del Passat, 8c+. 

*Once checked it out till the 3rd bolt 2 years ago but felt too hard. Today I checked it out the whole way up and did it in the go after! Huge...

Read more
DanGreb 29 Nov 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Incredible. Makes one wonder how hard Supernova really is...
 Morty 29 Nov 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Something like '9a isn't hard anymore and 8c is approaching a rest?' Or something...

Humbling stuff.
1
 stp 29 Nov 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Awesome video of Iker Pou doing it. Looks really really hard, even for a 9a+. Monos climbing through a roof.

youtube.com/watch?v=rGHlYfPKhio&

Didn't Ondra tweak a finger trying this route, so never did it?
DanGreb 29 Nov 2015
In reply to stp:

Yes he did. He said the pockets were too deep and that he preferred the shallower pockets of the Frankenjura.

At this time Alex is probably ready to tackle Le Bombe Bleu. It has been called "at least 9a+" but it's probably closer to 9b+. 12 moves. 8A into 8A into 7C. An Action Directe on steroids that starts with an almost identical dyno.
 Shani 29 Nov 2015
In reply to DanGreb:

"Action Directe on steroids"

There's a phrase that captures the current state of the art in climbing.



New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...