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help please!

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crux_crusader 08 Dec 2015
Im an indoor climber tackling a steep route ending in a gnarly upside down section! I have nailed the first section with relative ease but im struggling to do the last three clips. The holds are lovely however i find my bum comes away and i fall off , picture urself on a pull up bar with feet dangling. is there something i can do to strengthen my core as one of the instructors says it will vastly help. iv tried squeezing my core for stability and have got my feet locked in pretty good . thanks guys
 spenser 08 Dec 2015
In reply to crux_crusader:

Dish, leg raises, sit ups. If you don't know you're dishing you're either doing it wrong (legs too low probably) or have a strong core anyway!
crux_crusader 08 Dec 2015
In reply to spenser:

yeah iv almost nailed it just hard unpside down when your needing to clip ha
 Smythson 08 Dec 2015
In reply to crux_crusader:

I stumbled across this - youtube.com/watch?v=Usee0F_Ya98& - and it helped me as i'm in a similar position and finding it frustrating.

Try to make your body wider by going for wider placements with feet and hands. It will reduce the weight / leverage on your core which causes the slipping from the wall.

Best,

S
 jezb1 08 Dec 2015
In reply to crux_crusader:

Whilst a stronger core is always good (knee raises, sit up etc) I bet it's your body position that is letting you down...
crux_crusader 08 Dec 2015
In reply to Smythson:

cheers mate! its frustrating me is all ha! it becomes tricky going for the clips if it was a top rope route it be less stressful ha
 marsbar 08 Dec 2015
In reply to crux_crusader:

Can you top rope it to get the body positions sorted? One thing at once.

You probably need your bum tucked in more. Easy to say, not so easy to do.
 RockSteady 09 Dec 2015
In reply to crux_crusader:

If the holds are good there's almost certainly something you can do with heelhooks, toe hooks, bicycle moves, twisting, inside flagging, drop-kneeing to hold your hips close to the wall and lock yourself into position without working on getting a stronger core.

Robbie Phillips' articles were good for technique tips and training:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3694
crux_crusader 17 Dec 2015
In reply to RockSteady:

aww i love robbie he climbs where i do alot
 climberchristy 17 Dec 2015
In reply to crux_crusader:

Get someone to buy you Neil Gresham's 'Masterclass' DVDs for Christmas and watch the section on steep climbing. It is excellent and certainly helped me improve technique enormously on steep ground.

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