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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=630297
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: I didn’t see any lately. Some recommendations?
Dandan82: Do you already have a result from the scan? If so, any wiser about what is causing the pain? Maybe the way you sleep influences the feeling the day after, when I had elbow pain, it was always worse if I had slept with bent arms.
The Ex-Engineer: Looks like a good outdoor session with a 7a onsight and 7b second go! Did you get to climb outside again this week? If so, was it just as successful?
Robin Brooke: That looks like a good week and some nice variation in route types! Did you have any progress on the projects? Hope your girlfriend will recover well!
AJM: That are some nice goals for the bouldering trips, especially at different venues/rock types. Did you got back to training this week?
Hms: Bummer that you were still struggling with post Chulilla cold. Felt better this week and got anything done?
James Moyle: I think it might even be a good choice to not have done it this year with the 150 years since the first ascent. Probably a lot quieter next year. Congrats on the 6C slab! Did you manage to do some stamina training this week?
Mattrm: Good to hear things are improving! Did you climb this week?
0.5viking: get on the slab next week!
Flopsicle: Sounds like a though week. Did things were little easier this week? And did you start the stretching routine?
TonyB: Congrats with the pullup PB! How is/was El Chorro? Managed to tick some of your goals?
Ian Bell: Good you’re taking your recovery serious and hopefully it will pay off. Did you managed to swim some more? And got your one climbing session done?
Ally Smith: I think I got a bit lost in translation there as I was trying to complement you on trying to do an 8b onsight . Good to hear you’re stoked for your next trip. Managed to do some good preparation for the trip this week?
Biscuit: Bummer you got food poisoning in the last days. Did you feel better this week? How was the coaching session? Do you already have results?
Tyler: Good that despite not being happy with performance your psyche is still high! Got back to training this week?
Stevemarkperry: Sounds sensible to not state goals if that puts you away from having fun. In my experience you’ll progress the most when having fun. When you’re doing the hillwalking are you taking a heavy bag to train for Scotland or isn’t a heavy bag a problem for you?
Nick Russell: How was this weeks training after having recovered from the jetlag (I assume)? Managed to get your psyche back? Is it just bouldering psyche or also routes?
Spenser: Your rock overs will come back, try not to be too bothered about it! Enjoy your time in Geyikbayiri, heard a lot of good stories from friends who visited. How is it there? Managed to do some climbing?
Humperdink: Thanks! I did celebrate with a 4 hour bouldering session and a huge bowl of ice-cream. Congratulations on the third place and on your wife’s second place, fast couple ! Good luck today! Did you manage to get sub 31?
Just Tintin: Sounds familiar (although I have my group 2 hours a week). Did you recover from the lurgy and got back training? When is your Mallorca trip? If you’ve already left, enjoy your time there!
Hokkyokusei: Bummer you had a chest infection and couldn’t run. Did you feel better this week and managed some running? 30 km a week sounds like a good target!
Joyce: Congrats on the 7A flash! Looks like you’re back on the intensity after having a cold! Did you do some more of the orange circuit this week? If so, how many to go before ticking them all?
AWOL: Richard Popp, Exile.
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=630297
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: I didn’t see any lately. Some recommendations?
Dandan82: Do you already have a result from the scan? If so, any wiser about what is causing the pain? Maybe the way you sleep influences the feeling the day after, when I had elbow pain, it was always worse if I had slept with bent arms.
The Ex-Engineer: Looks like a good outdoor session with a 7a onsight and 7b second go! Did you get to climb outside again this week? If so, was it just as successful?
Robin Brooke: That looks like a good week and some nice variation in route types! Did you have any progress on the projects? Hope your girlfriend will recover well!
AJM: That are some nice goals for the bouldering trips, especially at different venues/rock types. Did you got back to training this week?
Hms: Bummer that you were still struggling with post Chulilla cold. Felt better this week and got anything done?
James Moyle: I think it might even be a good choice to not have done it this year with the 150 years since the first ascent. Probably a lot quieter next year. Congrats on the 6C slab! Did you manage to do some stamina training this week?
Mattrm: Good to hear things are improving! Did you climb this week?
0.5viking: get on the slab next week!
Flopsicle: Sounds like a though week. Did things were little easier this week? And did you start the stretching routine?
TonyB: Congrats with the pullup PB! How is/was El Chorro? Managed to tick some of your goals?
Ian Bell: Good you’re taking your recovery serious and hopefully it will pay off. Did you managed to swim some more? And got your one climbing session done?
Ally Smith: I think I got a bit lost in translation there as I was trying to complement you on trying to do an 8b onsight . Good to hear you’re stoked for your next trip. Managed to do some good preparation for the trip this week?
Biscuit: Bummer you got food poisoning in the last days. Did you feel better this week? How was the coaching session? Do you already have results?
Tyler: Good that despite not being happy with performance your psyche is still high! Got back to training this week?
Stevemarkperry: Sounds sensible to not state goals if that puts you away from having fun. In my experience you’ll progress the most when having fun. When you’re doing the hillwalking are you taking a heavy bag to train for Scotland or isn’t a heavy bag a problem for you?
Nick Russell: How was this weeks training after having recovered from the jetlag (I assume)? Managed to get your psyche back? Is it just bouldering psyche or also routes?
Spenser: Your rock overs will come back, try not to be too bothered about it! Enjoy your time in Geyikbayiri, heard a lot of good stories from friends who visited. How is it there? Managed to do some climbing?
Humperdink: Thanks! I did celebrate with a 4 hour bouldering session and a huge bowl of ice-cream. Congratulations on the third place and on your wife’s second place, fast couple ! Good luck today! Did you manage to get sub 31?
Just Tintin: Sounds familiar (although I have my group 2 hours a week). Did you recover from the lurgy and got back training? When is your Mallorca trip? If you’ve already left, enjoy your time there!
Hokkyokusei: Bummer you had a chest infection and couldn’t run. Did you feel better this week and managed some running? 30 km a week sounds like a good target!
Joyce: Congrats on the 7A flash! Looks like you’re back on the intensity after having a cold! Did you do some more of the orange circuit this week? If so, how many to go before ticking them all?
AWOL: Richard Popp, Exile.
1
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks Viking, well I watched the screen while the guy was scanning my elbows and he explained what he was seeing, the left tendon is partially torn, the right is not quite torn but is thin in the same place. Nothing I didn't really know before but it's confirmation at least, there was a slight chance it could have been something else, arthritis perhaps, so at least I know for sure now.
In this wondrous time of digital computing devices and something called 'The Internet', it somehow still takes 7-10 days for the scan to reach my GP, I could bum-shuffle from the hospital to the doctors surgery faster than that.
The upshot is that I need to ring the GP Wednesday this week to discuss the results, she doesn't know tennis elbow from athlete's foot so all she will do is refer me to another specialist, so another month or more to wait no doubt.
The specialist will tell me to do the rehab that I am doing, or have steroid injections again (which I don't want), or offer surgery which I would really rather avoid (although its less horrendous than I thought, 10 days out of action), so I can't see any miraculous cures being presented to me.
The good news is the rehab *seems* to be working ok, i'm still getting a lot of stiffness in the mornings (how are you supposed to tell yourself to keep your arms straight when you are asleep?!) but it eases out quickly and at some points in the day the ROM is pain-free and I can even pick up a cup of tea without a careful plan of attack, usually involving both hands.
It does involve being really strict with myself, the number of little things in the day that I have to avoid doing is ridiculous, but at least I can still go to work and earn money, even if I get home and my un-decorated hallway and weed-strewn new garage foundation remind me of all the things I really wish I could be doing.
I skipped the S+C routine this week just in case, in fact I skipped the core session too, properly lazy week! I'll do the core this coming week but will hold fire on the S+C for a little while, hopefully until I feel some improvements in the elbows.
> Dandan82: Do you already have a result from the scan? If so, any wiser about what is causing the pain? Maybe the way you sleep influences the feeling the day after, when I had elbow pain, it was always worse if I had slept with bent arms.
Thanks Viking, well I watched the screen while the guy was scanning my elbows and he explained what he was seeing, the left tendon is partially torn, the right is not quite torn but is thin in the same place. Nothing I didn't really know before but it's confirmation at least, there was a slight chance it could have been something else, arthritis perhaps, so at least I know for sure now.
In this wondrous time of digital computing devices and something called 'The Internet', it somehow still takes 7-10 days for the scan to reach my GP, I could bum-shuffle from the hospital to the doctors surgery faster than that.
The upshot is that I need to ring the GP Wednesday this week to discuss the results, she doesn't know tennis elbow from athlete's foot so all she will do is refer me to another specialist, so another month or more to wait no doubt.
The specialist will tell me to do the rehab that I am doing, or have steroid injections again (which I don't want), or offer surgery which I would really rather avoid (although its less horrendous than I thought, 10 days out of action), so I can't see any miraculous cures being presented to me.
The good news is the rehab *seems* to be working ok, i'm still getting a lot of stiffness in the mornings (how are you supposed to tell yourself to keep your arms straight when you are asleep?!) but it eases out quickly and at some points in the day the ROM is pain-free and I can even pick up a cup of tea without a careful plan of attack, usually involving both hands.
It does involve being really strict with myself, the number of little things in the day that I have to avoid doing is ridiculous, but at least I can still go to work and earn money, even if I get home and my un-decorated hallway and weed-strewn new garage foundation remind me of all the things I really wish I could be doing.
I skipped the S+C routine this week just in case, in fact I skipped the core session too, properly lazy week! I'll do the core this coming week but will hold fire on the S+C for a little while, hopefully until I feel some improvements in the elbows.
2
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks Viking. Some painting & decorating at home this week, didn't help the shoulder twinge. Some good performance tho with a number of 7a and 6c. RP on vertical/thin/balancy terrain, not quite there on steep/powerful/dynamic terrain. Perhaps need some power endurance training...
M: Leading at Castle (wells). 6c (pink, flash), 6c (mint, onsight), 7a (Red, RP attempt to penultimate clip. steep/powerful/dynamic), 7a (Beige, RP attempt to mid point. steep/reachy/rounded/pumpy), 7a (Beige, repeat to penultimate clip). Warm-ups: 5+, 6a+, 6a+, 6b.
T: Rest. Shoulder ex.
W: Rest. Shoulder ex.
Th: Leading at Castle (upstairs). 7a (Black, RP, vertical/thin/balancy), 7a (Black, fell once, repeat). Warm-ups: 6a, 6a+, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6b+. Shoulder ex.
F: Rest. Shoulder ex.
S: Leading at Castle (upstairs & wells): 6c (Mint downstairs, repeat), 7a (Black upstairs RP, vertical/thin/balancy), 7a (Red downstairs fell due to mistake, steep/powerful/dynamic), 7a (Red downstairs, repeat, got to final clip, just too pumped for last move which is a long dynamic move off poor undercling). Warm-ups: 5+, 6b, 6b+ (yellow upstairs).
Su: Rest. Shoulder ex.
STG: 6c+ & 7a RP's indoor by xmas plus get my Girlfriend recovered from her achilles tendon injury asap!
MTG: 7a & 7a+ RP outdoor and E2 & E3 HP in 2016
LTG: 7c RP and E4 HP
> Robin Brooke: That looks like a good week and some nice variation in route types! Did you have any progress on the projects? Hope your girlfriend will recover well!
Thanks Viking. Some painting & decorating at home this week, didn't help the shoulder twinge. Some good performance tho with a number of 7a and 6c. RP on vertical/thin/balancy terrain, not quite there on steep/powerful/dynamic terrain. Perhaps need some power endurance training...
M: Leading at Castle (wells). 6c (pink, flash), 6c (mint, onsight), 7a (Red, RP attempt to penultimate clip. steep/powerful/dynamic), 7a (Beige, RP attempt to mid point. steep/reachy/rounded/pumpy), 7a (Beige, repeat to penultimate clip). Warm-ups: 5+, 6a+, 6a+, 6b.
T: Rest. Shoulder ex.
W: Rest. Shoulder ex.
Th: Leading at Castle (upstairs). 7a (Black, RP, vertical/thin/balancy), 7a (Black, fell once, repeat). Warm-ups: 6a, 6a+, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6b+. Shoulder ex.
F: Rest. Shoulder ex.
S: Leading at Castle (upstairs & wells): 6c (Mint downstairs, repeat), 7a (Black upstairs RP, vertical/thin/balancy), 7a (Red downstairs fell due to mistake, steep/powerful/dynamic), 7a (Red downstairs, repeat, got to final clip, just too pumped for last move which is a long dynamic move off poor undercling). Warm-ups: 5+, 6b, 6b+ (yellow upstairs).
Su: Rest. Shoulder ex.
STG: 6c+ & 7a RP's indoor by xmas plus get my Girlfriend recovered from her achilles tendon injury asap!
MTG: 7a & 7a+ RP outdoor and E2 & E3 HP in 2016
LTG: 7c RP and E4 HP
Post edited at 10:36
In reply to 0.5viking:
Fairly poor week, like others I haven't been feeling 100%. On the plus side I did manage to get to Portland on Tuesday despite feeling like crap on Monday night. All considered, not a bad session but my skin suffered a bit.
M - feeling queasy
T - Sport @ The Cuttings
Three tie-ins each on Dumbfounded (7b) and Sign of the Vulcan (7b+) including a good but unsuccessful redpoint attempt on both.
W - Boulder @ Brookes. Short session repeating a couple of problems I'd only done once. Cut short due to running out of skin.
T - rest (no skin)
F - being a bit lazy
S - being even more lazy
S - TBC. Will head over and Boulder @ Brookes but not sure how productive it will be.
> Did you get to climb outside again this week? If so, was it just as successful?
Yes and No....Fairly poor week, like others I haven't been feeling 100%. On the plus side I did manage to get to Portland on Tuesday despite feeling like crap on Monday night. All considered, not a bad session but my skin suffered a bit.
M - feeling queasy
T - Sport @ The Cuttings
Three tie-ins each on Dumbfounded (7b) and Sign of the Vulcan (7b+) including a good but unsuccessful redpoint attempt on both.
W - Boulder @ Brookes. Short session repeating a couple of problems I'd only done once. Cut short due to running out of skin.
T - rest (no skin)
F - being a bit lazy
S - being even more lazy
S - TBC. Will head over and Boulder @ Brookes but not sure how productive it will be.
Post edited at 12:33
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks as ever for doing the stats.
I was due to climb on Tuesday, but didn't feel well enough. Same story on Wednesday. Had a tiny climb at work testing some new routes. 6a,6b,6c back to back. All good :0)
Tried to climb on Friday, disaster. Decent boulder warm up. 3 tie ins 6a, 6b, 6c+, back to back. All went well. Tried a 7a and had a good fight to 2/3rds of way up. Turns out it's a total sandbag. Had a break ( bit too long but jumped on auto belay to re-warm up) then a 7a attempt. Same result as before. Then did a 6c and then failed on a 6b+. Not pumped just peeling off huge jugs type thing. I was very clunky, pully and tense whilst trying hard but the worrying thing is how quickly i tailed off and the fact i am still hurting/feeling tired two days later.
Got coaching session on Tuesday so resting up for that. Really looking forward to it.
Very busy week this week. Assignment deadlines, exams, homework, coaching assessment, 4 days in work and 2 days in college. Other than that not much on!
I would think that Tuesday will be my only chance to climb unless i can squeeze something in on Friday morning. See how i feel.
Next week should see me with proper Short,medium and long term goals i will be motivated to stick to, and time to climb. I can't flipping wait.
Thanks as ever for doing the stats.
I was due to climb on Tuesday, but didn't feel well enough. Same story on Wednesday. Had a tiny climb at work testing some new routes. 6a,6b,6c back to back. All good :0)
Tried to climb on Friday, disaster. Decent boulder warm up. 3 tie ins 6a, 6b, 6c+, back to back. All went well. Tried a 7a and had a good fight to 2/3rds of way up. Turns out it's a total sandbag. Had a break ( bit too long but jumped on auto belay to re-warm up) then a 7a attempt. Same result as before. Then did a 6c and then failed on a 6b+. Not pumped just peeling off huge jugs type thing. I was very clunky, pully and tense whilst trying hard but the worrying thing is how quickly i tailed off and the fact i am still hurting/feeling tired two days later.
Got coaching session on Tuesday so resting up for that. Really looking forward to it.
Very busy week this week. Assignment deadlines, exams, homework, coaching assessment, 4 days in work and 2 days in college. Other than that not much on!
I would think that Tuesday will be my only chance to climb unless i can squeeze something in on Friday morning. See how i feel.
Next week should see me with proper Short,medium and long term goals i will be motivated to stick to, and time to climb. I can't flipping wait.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Did basically nothing this week. Elbow flared up with golfers type symptoms early in the week so I went paranoid and rested it up in the hope it was short term inflammation from something rather than the start of a longer term thing. Felt OK on Saturday when I had a bit of a play on my friends garage wall so fingers crossed.
Also went for a few hours muddy walk today.
Next week looks tough for training with lots of Christmas stuff midweek but I'll give some stuff a go whilst watching out for the elbow.
> AJM: That are some nice goals for the bouldering trips, especially at different venues/rock types. Did you got back to training this week?
Did basically nothing this week. Elbow flared up with golfers type symptoms early in the week so I went paranoid and rested it up in the hope it was short term inflammation from something rather than the start of a longer term thing. Felt OK on Saturday when I had a bit of a play on my friends garage wall so fingers crossed.
Also went for a few hours muddy walk today.
Next week looks tough for training with lots of Christmas stuff midweek but I'll give some stuff a go whilst watching out for the elbow.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks 0.5Viking. I'd forgotten how good Fitclub is for getting you off your arse. I've been lacking motivation for a couple of months and knowing that I have to write something down at the end of the week really helps. Christmas/Work/Family have still got in the way mid-week but have done two pieces of exercise this week so 100% improvement:
Saturday: Bouldering session at Bloc Bristol with my daughter, Neve. She's nine, does gymnastics and weighs less than a rizla - I think she has potential! Managed to do quite a few problems but still easing myself back in. There are certain moves, even once warmed up, where I feel knee/shoulder pain where I back off.
Sunday: Short Hilly Cycle (25km, height gain 525m)
Also trying to reduce alcohol consumption (maybe not the best timing!) & weight:
units: about 20
weight: lost 4 lb
Thanks 0.5Viking. I'd forgotten how good Fitclub is for getting you off your arse. I've been lacking motivation for a couple of months and knowing that I have to write something down at the end of the week really helps. Christmas/Work/Family have still got in the way mid-week but have done two pieces of exercise this week so 100% improvement:
Saturday: Bouldering session at Bloc Bristol with my daughter, Neve. She's nine, does gymnastics and weighs less than a rizla - I think she has potential! Managed to do quite a few problems but still easing myself back in. There are certain moves, even once warmed up, where I feel knee/shoulder pain where I back off.
Sunday: Short Hilly Cycle (25km, height gain 525m)
Also trying to reduce alcohol consumption (maybe not the best timing!) & weight:
units: about 20
weight: lost 4 lb
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for keeping the thread going ...
Yeah, falt a bit better this week, though not mended yet!
M - 2 hrs plyometric drills, core & circuits
T - 10k off-road run, 1hr 8mins, well off the pace for what is my regular route
W - rest
T - Same 10k off road run, but 4 mins faster
F - rest
S - spent the afternoon in the pub!
S - PECO XC race 2, 7.6k trail race, much slower than the last race, but a bit faster than the same course last season.
Didn't get any commuting on the bike in this week, but that was more to do with circumstances than feeling ill. Was really wheezing badly today, but I finished and the plan is to keep ticking over until I'm completely better.
Thanks for keeping the thread going ...
> Hokkyokusei: Bummer you had a chest infection and couldn’t run. Did you feel better this week and managed some running? 30 km a week sounds like a good target!
Yeah, falt a bit better this week, though not mended yet!
M - 2 hrs plyometric drills, core & circuits
T - 10k off-road run, 1hr 8mins, well off the pace for what is my regular route
W - rest
T - Same 10k off road run, but 4 mins faster
F - rest
S - spent the afternoon in the pub!
S - PECO XC race 2, 7.6k trail race, much slower than the last race, but a bit faster than the same course last season.
Didn't get any commuting on the bike in this week, but that was more to do with circumstances than feeling ill. Was really wheezing badly today, but I finished and the plan is to keep ticking over until I'm completely better.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Morning Campers,
Thanks for doing the stats Mr V, 'tis appreciated.
Bad news! I completely misread the grading list on the 'door of grades' at TCA and the 7A that I thought I'd flashed is actually down as 6B, the one next to it is 7A. Thought it felt a bit easy. Oh well. Anyway, onwards (while hopefully paying more attention to what's written down)!
Mr V, now up to 14 Oranges (3 more this week) and reckon there're 5 more out of the 30 that will/might go with some work.
Training Diary WC 07/11/15
Onwards and Orange-wards
Monday – Easy/Tempo Run – 13.9km in 1:04:32 at 4:38m/km pace. GAP 4:29m/km as 249m of ascent. Picked up speed as it went on.
Tuesday – TCA – Did the superb slopey 7A on the Mothership (twice in fact, as I thought that I’d grazed a different coloured screw-on on my first ascent so reclimbed it ‘clean’), failed to match the finish on a nails crimpy 6C and ticked my first every TCA 7A+ too.
Wednesday – Intervals: – 10 x 400m at 80s w/1min rests. Down by 8s on the first one then only 1s on the next 7. Up by 3s and 4s on the last 2. Super.
Thursday – TCA – ticked another three Oranges (6B to 7B circuit) including two slopey/burly jobbers that aren’t my style. I’ve now done 14 of the Oranges (previous best effort is scratching up about 5) and still got 5 or 6 that I reckon will go.
Friday – DIY
Saturday – DIY all day except for... Easy Run with Tom: 17.1km in 1:27:01 at 5:04m/km pace. GAP 4:50m/km as 326m of ascent. A great run around the bowl that our hometown sits in – good to getting blown about in the wind on the tops.
Sunday – DIY all day except for a session at TCA with Tom. Fired of some problems from this week’s two comps. Fell off some problems from this week’s two comps. Played on a 7a+, 7a and some easier stuff on the less steep circuit board – the beginnings of my fitness drive (well not really as I rarely got past 20 moves) but it’s a start.
Short Term Goals
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+ - nope.
Slopers, slopers, slopers, heel hooks (and other weaknesses) – still improving.
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’ (nope - wet).
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability - nope.
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff - nope. At least one BM session a week – nope. Core stuff: 3 core sessions – nope – too much DIY to do – have been doing the odd press up after clambering and they feel gooooood!
I am intending to start a month or so of endurance training to boost climbing fitness but keep getting distracted by boulder problems – kinda almost get going today, a step in the right direction.
Weight = 69.9kg
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Thanks for doing the stats Mr V, 'tis appreciated.
Bad news! I completely misread the grading list on the 'door of grades' at TCA and the 7A that I thought I'd flashed is actually down as 6B, the one next to it is 7A. Thought it felt a bit easy. Oh well. Anyway, onwards (while hopefully paying more attention to what's written down)!
Mr V, now up to 14 Oranges (3 more this week) and reckon there're 5 more out of the 30 that will/might go with some work.
Training Diary WC 07/11/15
Onwards and Orange-wards
Monday – Easy/Tempo Run – 13.9km in 1:04:32 at 4:38m/km pace. GAP 4:29m/km as 249m of ascent. Picked up speed as it went on.
Tuesday – TCA – Did the superb slopey 7A on the Mothership (twice in fact, as I thought that I’d grazed a different coloured screw-on on my first ascent so reclimbed it ‘clean’), failed to match the finish on a nails crimpy 6C and ticked my first every TCA 7A+ too.
Wednesday – Intervals: – 10 x 400m at 80s w/1min rests. Down by 8s on the first one then only 1s on the next 7. Up by 3s and 4s on the last 2. Super.
Thursday – TCA – ticked another three Oranges (6B to 7B circuit) including two slopey/burly jobbers that aren’t my style. I’ve now done 14 of the Oranges (previous best effort is scratching up about 5) and still got 5 or 6 that I reckon will go.
Friday – DIY
Saturday – DIY all day except for... Easy Run with Tom: 17.1km in 1:27:01 at 5:04m/km pace. GAP 4:50m/km as 326m of ascent. A great run around the bowl that our hometown sits in – good to getting blown about in the wind on the tops.
Sunday – DIY all day except for a session at TCA with Tom. Fired of some problems from this week’s two comps. Fell off some problems from this week’s two comps. Played on a 7a+, 7a and some easier stuff on the less steep circuit board – the beginnings of my fitness drive (well not really as I rarely got past 20 moves) but it’s a start.
Short Term Goals
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+ - nope.
Slopers, slopers, slopers, heel hooks (and other weaknesses) – still improving.
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’ (nope - wet).
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability - nope.
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff - nope. At least one BM session a week – nope. Core stuff: 3 core sessions – nope – too much DIY to do – have been doing the odd press up after clambering and they feel gooooood!
I am intending to start a month or so of endurance training to boost climbing fitness but keep getting distracted by boulder problems – kinda almost get going today, a step in the right direction.
Weight = 69.9kg
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
In reply to 0.5viking:
thanks Viking. Feel much better now, which is a relief. Managed to get some reasonable stuff in although trip to visit parents took up 2 days.
M - cycle commute. Ucr in evening. Felt horribly week so stayed below 7a, but did tick a troublesome 6c+.
T - cycle commute. S&C x 3. Think I need to be really careful o some of the exercises as my shoulder flared up after this session.
W - cycle commute. UCR trying new circuits. Flashed then multiple repeating of 6a, 6b, 6c. Tried the 7a+ and got half way round, then pieced together 20-32, but then came unstuck on a big downhill LH move to a horrid sloper. Didn't dare commit to it.
T - travel to parents. Bit of walking.
F - travel home from parents. Bit more walking.
S - some more walking, plus a long fingerboard session. 7on, 3off, 6 in set, 3 min rest, repeat. Did this 10 times, then a long rest, then 10 more times. Used all the holds on the BM1000 except the smallest crimps (they are too round edged).
S - collecting D1 from uni so nothing else.
Various family stuff this week. Hoping to get to TCA to try their comp problems, other than that probably just maintainance bimbling in run-up to Christmas.
thanks Viking. Feel much better now, which is a relief. Managed to get some reasonable stuff in although trip to visit parents took up 2 days.
M - cycle commute. Ucr in evening. Felt horribly week so stayed below 7a, but did tick a troublesome 6c+.
T - cycle commute. S&C x 3. Think I need to be really careful o some of the exercises as my shoulder flared up after this session.
W - cycle commute. UCR trying new circuits. Flashed then multiple repeating of 6a, 6b, 6c. Tried the 7a+ and got half way round, then pieced together 20-32, but then came unstuck on a big downhill LH move to a horrid sloper. Didn't dare commit to it.
T - travel to parents. Bit of walking.
F - travel home from parents. Bit more walking.
S - some more walking, plus a long fingerboard session. 7on, 3off, 6 in set, 3 min rest, repeat. Did this 10 times, then a long rest, then 10 more times. Used all the holds on the BM1000 except the smallest crimps (they are too round edged).
S - collecting D1 from uni so nothing else.
Various family stuff this week. Hoping to get to TCA to try their comp problems, other than that probably just maintainance bimbling in run-up to Christmas.
1
In reply to 0.5viking:
Cheers for the thread and write up Viking!
I'm hoping it isn't just me that's ever failed to launch on physio homework? Just haven't got my act together, when I've had time I've played instead! My week has been a bit better though. Despite my laziness my arm has felt better, very little sharp pain and nothing prolonged if I've come off whatever hurt. I'm still getting lots of pins and needles; by the time I'm half way up most routes my left hand is pretty tingly and if I'm leading on the headwall I have to dangle it straight at least once or clipping with my left gets interesting. I've climbed lots this week but been quite picky what I do, avoiding stuff that's clearly not going to help.
But enough of that - in other news I got my first F6c on Thurs!!! SO bloody happy! Now a 7 can be a goal. It probably was a softer one but at least one climber considerably better than me got spat off. I think I got it partly because my arm has been sore so I've been forced to plan better and get on my ruddy feet.
Ok boring bit:
Mon - 2 mile hilly run and bike to work.
Tues - 2 mile hilly run, bike to work, 1 hr bouldering (first 10 comp problems but decided to leave the rest at the moment) and 1 mile run with daughter.
Weds - 2 mile run, bike to work then 80s party night at the wall, chill time with friends, only did 8 of the fun comp problems but still came 3rd in the ladies (all ages not just vet). Didn't want to try any hard ones.
Thurs - Bike to work. Lead and rope night - got my F6c! Backed off doing the steeper part of the head wall and got spat off some climbs I felt I ought to have got. Still way too happy over the 6c to be glum!
Fri - 2 mile run then roped climbing. I belayed more than climbed and only did one hard climb.
Sat - Climbed whilst daughter had NICAS, chilled, lots of drills, only one harder climb (again!)
Sun - Did some chrimbo shopping by bike then climbing. Very good session, excellent vibe climbing in a trio so longer rests but also an encouraging group so climbed hard when I did. Managed to lead an F6a on the overhanging head wall (climbing round overusing my left), led the really steep bit of the headwall, albeit on a rainbow F5+ (red face!), got the 2 climbs I felt I ought to have got on Thurs and did well on my feet only projects.
I've also come to the conclusion that I really love belaying, especially lead. I would definitely do it if I was off climbing for any reason.
Cheers for the thread and write up Viking!
I'm hoping it isn't just me that's ever failed to launch on physio homework? Just haven't got my act together, when I've had time I've played instead! My week has been a bit better though. Despite my laziness my arm has felt better, very little sharp pain and nothing prolonged if I've come off whatever hurt. I'm still getting lots of pins and needles; by the time I'm half way up most routes my left hand is pretty tingly and if I'm leading on the headwall I have to dangle it straight at least once or clipping with my left gets interesting. I've climbed lots this week but been quite picky what I do, avoiding stuff that's clearly not going to help.
But enough of that - in other news I got my first F6c on Thurs!!! SO bloody happy! Now a 7 can be a goal. It probably was a softer one but at least one climber considerably better than me got spat off. I think I got it partly because my arm has been sore so I've been forced to plan better and get on my ruddy feet.
Ok boring bit:
Mon - 2 mile hilly run and bike to work.
Tues - 2 mile hilly run, bike to work, 1 hr bouldering (first 10 comp problems but decided to leave the rest at the moment) and 1 mile run with daughter.
Weds - 2 mile run, bike to work then 80s party night at the wall, chill time with friends, only did 8 of the fun comp problems but still came 3rd in the ladies (all ages not just vet). Didn't want to try any hard ones.
Thurs - Bike to work. Lead and rope night - got my F6c! Backed off doing the steeper part of the head wall and got spat off some climbs I felt I ought to have got. Still way too happy over the 6c to be glum!
Fri - 2 mile run then roped climbing. I belayed more than climbed and only did one hard climb.
Sat - Climbed whilst daughter had NICAS, chilled, lots of drills, only one harder climb (again!)
Sun - Did some chrimbo shopping by bike then climbing. Very good session, excellent vibe climbing in a trio so longer rests but also an encouraging group so climbed hard when I did. Managed to lead an F6a on the overhanging head wall (climbing round overusing my left), led the really steep bit of the headwall, albeit on a rainbow F5+ (red face!), got the 2 climbs I felt I ought to have got on Thurs and did well on my feet only projects.
I've also come to the conclusion that I really love belaying, especially lead. I would definitely do it if I was off climbing for any reason.
1
In reply to 0.5viking:
STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year). Looking tough after about a month off but will keep it as a goal.
STG2 = restrain Xmas gluttony at least a bit pre Tenerife
MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
Thanks for the stats Viking, yep managed my rather limited goals OK this week.
Mon - 1km swim
Weds - couple of hours of salsa / standing on my partners feet
Fri - 7 routes at Westway. 2x6b, 2x6a+, 3x6a. All felt OK and OK the next day so progress on last week when 6as and 1 6a+ left me feeling a bit sore.
Sat - 1 km swim. Then played table football a bit which wasn't very sensible with bad elbows....
Elbows recovering despite the table football, should be able to do some climbing in Tenerife even though it'll probably be easy onsighting rather than anything hard. Plan is for more swimming and 1 or maybe 2 sessions climbing next week. Was a bit slack with the core exercises this week and only managed a couple of sessions so will try and get back on them also.
STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year). Looking tough after about a month off but will keep it as a goal.
STG2 = restrain Xmas gluttony at least a bit pre Tenerife
MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
Thanks for the stats Viking, yep managed my rather limited goals OK this week.
Mon - 1km swim
Weds - couple of hours of salsa / standing on my partners feet
Fri - 7 routes at Westway. 2x6b, 2x6a+, 3x6a. All felt OK and OK the next day so progress on last week when 6as and 1 6a+ left me feeling a bit sore.
Sat - 1 km swim. Then played table football a bit which wasn't very sensible with bad elbows....
Elbows recovering despite the table football, should be able to do some climbing in Tenerife even though it'll probably be easy onsighting rather than anything hard. Plan is for more swimming and 1 or maybe 2 sessions climbing next week. Was a bit slack with the core exercises this week and only managed a couple of sessions so will try and get back on them also.
In reply to hms:
Those little crimps are the same as the bottom rail on the BM2K. They get much easier to hold after a few sessions and some chalk rubbed into them.
To bench-mark the finger-strength discussion we had in Chulilla; i can do a double pull-up on those little rounded edges with bodyweight + 18kg.
If you want to climb f8a in the UK you could really do with upping your finger-strength; consider adding some weight when using the bigger holds on the Bm1K to add some intensity rather than doing more sets?
> S - Used all the holds on the BM1000 except the smallest crimps (they are too round edged).
Those little crimps are the same as the bottom rail on the BM2K. They get much easier to hold after a few sessions and some chalk rubbed into them.
To bench-mark the finger-strength discussion we had in Chulilla; i can do a double pull-up on those little rounded edges with bodyweight + 18kg.
If you want to climb f8a in the UK you could really do with upping your finger-strength; consider adding some weight when using the bigger holds on the Bm1K to add some intensity rather than doing more sets?
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for the stats again half Viking:
A tiring week for me, but mostly social engagements rather than training which is causing the fatigue; more of the same for next 5 days, then lazy weekend.
Unfortunately partner for new year has badly sprained his ankle – really hope he’s fit in time for Spain.
Winter ’15/’16
Climb 8a on other rock types – conglomerate and/or slate?
Do 7C in Albarracin at end of Jan.
Grit 7C – Sole Power?
The Wire, 8A+, Parisella’s Cave
Do some progressive headpointing; Janus & Masters Edge for starters.
Kilnsey/Malham/Orme bolting efforts
Toadal Recall, f8a – tidy up loose ends.
S/MTG - New Year in Spain – STOKE IS HIGH!
La Cara Que No Miente, 8a/+ - need to train pinches, pockets and jumping moves.
Pat Pa Mi, 8b, Suirana.
Anabolica, classic Suirana 8a.
Hidrophobia, R1, 8a, (and maybe R2, 8b/+?), Montsant.
Try: La Perla, 8b+ at Margalef.
STG (next week)
- Continued rehab for various achy/injured bits – TICK – repeat
- Maintain sub 75 kg – TICK - repeat
- 2x week core sessions – proper Randall beastings – TICK – ab DOMS of doom! - repeat
- Get to the cave this week – TICK - repeat
Last week:
M - Big core and rehab session
T - Date night
W - Cave after work; psyche was high, but bit lacking in sleep! Tried The Wire again but start is wet and the alternative beta feels bad on the shoulder. Finished with good an-cap workout. 4x 7B+/C 150s rest, 4x 7B 120s rest, 4x 7B/+ 150s rest (dropped the last move on each go – proper powered out scenes)
T - Rest/Cinema.
F - Bit of a random session. Right knee went pop to match left from last week. Bouldered to V7 and did a few routes in the 7b-c range. Beers.
S - FB5. Down on crimp, up on open grips then 10sets 1on/1off @ 60%. Core & rehab. Good session.
S - Lazy day including multiple hours sofa loafing.
Thanks for the stats again half Viking:
A tiring week for me, but mostly social engagements rather than training which is causing the fatigue; more of the same for next 5 days, then lazy weekend.
Unfortunately partner for new year has badly sprained his ankle – really hope he’s fit in time for Spain.
Winter ’15/’16
Climb 8a on other rock types – conglomerate and/or slate?
Do 7C in Albarracin at end of Jan.
Grit 7C – Sole Power?
The Wire, 8A+, Parisella’s Cave
Do some progressive headpointing; Janus & Masters Edge for starters.
Kilnsey/Malham/Orme bolting efforts
Toadal Recall, f8a – tidy up loose ends.
S/MTG - New Year in Spain – STOKE IS HIGH!
La Cara Que No Miente, 8a/+ - need to train pinches, pockets and jumping moves.
Pat Pa Mi, 8b, Suirana.
Anabolica, classic Suirana 8a.
Hidrophobia, R1, 8a, (and maybe R2, 8b/+?), Montsant.
Try: La Perla, 8b+ at Margalef.
STG (next week)
- Continued rehab for various achy/injured bits – TICK – repeat
- Maintain sub 75 kg – TICK - repeat
- 2x week core sessions – proper Randall beastings – TICK – ab DOMS of doom! - repeat
- Get to the cave this week – TICK - repeat
Last week:
M - Big core and rehab session
T - Date night
W - Cave after work; psyche was high, but bit lacking in sleep! Tried The Wire again but start is wet and the alternative beta feels bad on the shoulder. Finished with good an-cap workout. 4x 7B+/C 150s rest, 4x 7B 120s rest, 4x 7B/+ 150s rest (dropped the last move on each go – proper powered out scenes)
T - Rest/Cinema.
F - Bit of a random session. Right knee went pop to match left from last week. Bouldered to V7 and did a few routes in the 7b-c range. Beers.
S - FB5. Down on crimp, up on open grips then 10sets 1on/1off @ 60%. Core & rehab. Good session.
S - Lazy day including multiple hours sofa loafing.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks Viking. I don't actually take a heavy bag but that's not a bad idea. I'm pretty strong for my frame and have good general fitness from the mountain biking but I can understand the benefits of carrying one to get used to it.
Goals: Fun. Maintain fitness. Improve upper body strength and climbing technique. Get on some ropes in prep for March.
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rest and 1hr walking the dog.
T: Rest and 1.5hr walking the dog.
F: 2hr Brazilian Jiu Jitsu workshop and promotions. Got my first stripe tonight which I really was not expecting! It's funny because I nearly didn't go to class tonight as I wasn't feeling up to it but I'm so glad that I went now. A good workshop, learned loads. Worked attacks against the wall and how to use BJJ in more street type scenarios which was interesting. Ended class with sparring and promotions.
S: 1.5hr indoor bouldering. Starting to feel a bit better on the wall now. Focusing on technique and steep problems. Enjoyed it today, feeling good! Mainly climbed in the cave and on the woody. Steep problems working upper body, core and technique. Climbed up and down on cave problems. Grade still lower than my previous best.
S: Rest and 1.5hr walking the dog. Shifting furniture and caught up on UFC 194.
Current weight: 144 lbs (Weight going up a bit but I have started doing a bit more strength work, will monitor. Ok up to 150.)
Thanks Viking. I don't actually take a heavy bag but that's not a bad idea. I'm pretty strong for my frame and have good general fitness from the mountain biking but I can understand the benefits of carrying one to get used to it.
Goals: Fun. Maintain fitness. Improve upper body strength and climbing technique. Get on some ropes in prep for March.
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rest and 1hr walking the dog.
T: Rest and 1.5hr walking the dog.
F: 2hr Brazilian Jiu Jitsu workshop and promotions. Got my first stripe tonight which I really was not expecting! It's funny because I nearly didn't go to class tonight as I wasn't feeling up to it but I'm so glad that I went now. A good workshop, learned loads. Worked attacks against the wall and how to use BJJ in more street type scenarios which was interesting. Ended class with sparring and promotions.
S: 1.5hr indoor bouldering. Starting to feel a bit better on the wall now. Focusing on technique and steep problems. Enjoyed it today, feeling good! Mainly climbed in the cave and on the woody. Steep problems working upper body, core and technique. Climbed up and down on cave problems. Grade still lower than my previous best.
S: Rest and 1.5hr walking the dog. Shifting furniture and caught up on UFC 194.
Current weight: 144 lbs (Weight going up a bit but I have started doing a bit more strength work, will monitor. Ok up to 150.)
In reply to Dandan:
"(how are you supposed to tell yourself to keep your arms straight when you are asleep?!)"
Slide them into giant toilet roles? My daughter used to play robot arms with toilet roles over her elbows and I've thought since that large enough for adult ones would make a great training aid for straight armed climbing!
Being daft aside, sorry the news wasn't better but fingers crossed for the rehab...
"(how are you supposed to tell yourself to keep your arms straight when you are asleep?!)"
Slide them into giant toilet roles? My daughter used to play robot arms with toilet roles over her elbows and I've thought since that large enough for adult ones would make a great training aid for straight armed climbing!
Being daft aside, sorry the news wasn't better but fingers crossed for the rehab...
1
In reply to flopsicle:
Better for climbing training are a couple of tubi grip bandages folded over on each elbow. It signals that the arm is bending whilst allowing it to happen if needed and no injury problems if they fall off.
Better for climbing training are a couple of tubi grip bandages folded over on each elbow. It signals that the arm is bending whilst allowing it to happen if needed and no injury problems if they fall off.
In reply to Ally Smith:
I never tried to do pullups but I'm sure I could deadhang them for about 10s at +16kg some time in 2013. Have to try them again some point.
> To bench-mark the finger-strength discussion we had in Chulilla; i can do a double pull-up on those little rounded edges with bodyweight + 18kg.
I never tried to do pullups but I'm sure I could deadhang them for about 10s at +16kg some time in 2013. Have to try them again some point.
In reply to AJM & Ally Smith:
I find the roundedness of the edges a real problem - me fingers just creep off the slope. Suspect if the round bit was removed entirely to leave a sharp edge I could hang them much better - I'm good on sharp crimps.
Yes do need to mix it up and do some longer single hangs with added weight. Need to tinker with logistics. Think AJM suggested the best way was to wear a harness & add weights attached to qdraws.
I find the roundedness of the edges a real problem - me fingers just creep off the slope. Suspect if the round bit was removed entirely to leave a sharp edge I could hang them much better - I'm good on sharp crimps.
Yes do need to mix it up and do some longer single hangs with added weight. Need to tinker with logistics. Think AJM suggested the best way was to wear a harness & add weights attached to qdraws.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Sorry to be nosey, double pull up? As in two pull ups or something else? Just keen to have a go.
Sorry to be nosey, double pull up? As in two pull ups or something else? Just keen to have a go.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Hi, thanks for stats Viking, not sure what happened last week.
Hmm, not quite sure what to say, think I have been bouldering 5 times in the two weeks, plus fingerboard times two, a couple of runs, yoga and stretching most days and various walks and bile rides. Feeling slightly demoralised-plateaued spectacularly.Think some of the issue is getting over a bug but also running from place to place on a tight deadline,work has been tough and two new kittens has not been a recipe for full nights sleep. I have had a couple of half sessions with people I have just bumped into but been quite solitary.
Think I am going to give myself a break this week and skip bouldering at least until next Sunday-going to focus on sleeping, yoga and fingerboard. Sometimes it is good to just stop and this is as near as I can get.
Rich
Hi, thanks for stats Viking, not sure what happened last week.
Hmm, not quite sure what to say, think I have been bouldering 5 times in the two weeks, plus fingerboard times two, a couple of runs, yoga and stretching most days and various walks and bile rides. Feeling slightly demoralised-plateaued spectacularly.Think some of the issue is getting over a bug but also running from place to place on a tight deadline,work has been tough and two new kittens has not been a recipe for full nights sleep. I have had a couple of half sessions with people I have just bumped into but been quite solitary.
Think I am going to give myself a break this week and skip bouldering at least until next Sunday-going to focus on sleeping, yoga and fingerboard. Sometimes it is good to just stop and this is as near as I can get.
Rich
In reply to biscuit:
Like the majority of smart phone users, hms and i will have to wait for the Android version...
Like the majority of smart phone users, hms and i will have to wait for the Android version...
1
In reply to Morriss & hms:
2x pull ups (straight arm to nose above knuckles); 7-8s total hang time?
Add weight through wearing harness (mine is a knackered old one with the leg loops cut off) and hang weights via belay loop and sling threaded through the middle of the weights.
Use quite a long sling so that the weight hits the floor quickly when dropping off (prevents a heavily bruised bum if you ping off compared to shorter slings/quick draws clipping weights to gear loops)
> Sorry to be nosey, double pull up? As in two pull ups or something else? Just keen to have a go.
2x pull ups (straight arm to nose above knuckles); 7-8s total hang time?
Add weight through wearing harness (mine is a knackered old one with the leg loops cut off) and hang weights via belay loop and sling threaded through the middle of the weights.
Use quite a long sling so that the weight hits the floor quickly when dropping off (prevents a heavily bruised bum if you ping off compared to shorter slings/quick draws clipping weights to gear loops)
In reply to hms:
If there was no rounding on the edge it would be bigger so I'd expect you to be able to crush it
If there was no rounding on the edge it would be bigger so I'd expect you to be able to crush it
In reply to hms:
I have to say I mainly actually just hooked a dumbell of appropriate weight behind my knee for weighted hangs at home. At the wall they only have the weights themselves so I used a QuickDraw and harness setup.
I have to say I mainly actually just hooked a dumbell of appropriate weight behind my knee for weighted hangs at home. At the wall they only have the weights themselves so I used a QuickDraw and harness setup.
In reply to AJM:
Don't do it - remember your elbows!
> I never tried to do pullups but I'm sure I could deadhang them for about 10s at +16kg some time in 2013. Have to try them again some point.
Don't do it - remember your elbows!
1
In reply to AJM:
no, no! I realise if the rounded bit was replaced with a sticky out bit it would be a wider edge and therefore a doddle. What I was saying was if the roundy bit was removed altogether, leaving a sharp edged edge. Which compared with some of the stuff on Armistice would still count as a bloody great jug!!!
no, no! I realise if the rounded bit was replaced with a sticky out bit it would be a wider edge and therefore a doddle. What I was saying was if the roundy bit was removed altogether, leaving a sharp edged edge. Which compared with some of the stuff on Armistice would still count as a bloody great jug!!!
In reply to AJM:
Sounds like pretty much my level. When I was finger-boarding over the Summer, I found I could dead-hang the small Beastmaker edges for 13s with a +16.5kg weight-vest - so was doing repeated 10s hangs with the same weight as part of a "Lopez" style routine.
I case you're curious as to what the small Beastmaker edge corresponds to in a more quantitative sense, I recently "calibrated" myself on a "Transgression" fingerboard with measured, straight cut edges (albeit plastic resin rather than wood so not directly comparable). With the same added weight (around +16.5 kg) I found:
18mm edge = 24 second max hang
14mm edge - 14s
[small Beastmaker edge = 13 s ]
12mm edge = 11 s
10mm edge = 9 s
And, for an idea about how max hang relates to added weight (at least for me), using the same 10mm edge I found:
16.5 kg = 9 second max hang
13 kg = 11s
12.5 kg = 10s
12 kg = 12s
11.5 kg = 13s
10 kg = 15s
(and for another benchmark, I find that half-crimping to failure with no added weight: 6mm edge - 5s hangs, 7mm - 6s hangs, 8mm = second hangs)...
I seem to have found a boundless well of training nerdiness since getting into fingerboarding. And, to think, until this Summer climbing was always meant to be my escape from such matters! Funny what repeated failure on a project will force you to do!
> I never tried to do pullups but I'm sure I could deadhang them for about 10s at +16kg some time in 2013. Have to try them again some point.
Sounds like pretty much my level. When I was finger-boarding over the Summer, I found I could dead-hang the small Beastmaker edges for 13s with a +16.5kg weight-vest - so was doing repeated 10s hangs with the same weight as part of a "Lopez" style routine.
I case you're curious as to what the small Beastmaker edge corresponds to in a more quantitative sense, I recently "calibrated" myself on a "Transgression" fingerboard with measured, straight cut edges (albeit plastic resin rather than wood so not directly comparable). With the same added weight (around +16.5 kg) I found:
18mm edge = 24 second max hang
14mm edge - 14s
[small Beastmaker edge = 13 s ]
12mm edge = 11 s
10mm edge = 9 s
And, for an idea about how max hang relates to added weight (at least for me), using the same 10mm edge I found:
16.5 kg = 9 second max hang
13 kg = 11s
12.5 kg = 10s
12 kg = 12s
11.5 kg = 13s
10 kg = 15s
(and for another benchmark, I find that half-crimping to failure with no added weight: 6mm edge - 5s hangs, 7mm - 6s hangs, 8mm = second hangs)...
I seem to have found a boundless well of training nerdiness since getting into fingerboarding. And, to think, until this Summer climbing was always meant to be my escape from such matters! Funny what repeated failure on a project will force you to do!
2
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - Keep doing some climbing
Weight - 12st 6lbs - staying the same
M - 4k run
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - Core
F - Indoor routes
S - Core
S - Rest
Monthly Avg - 50%
Yearly Avg - 60%
Just trying to keep ticking over. Keep the average up. Very busy at work and with social stuff.
Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - Keep doing some climbing
Weight - 12st 6lbs - staying the same
M - 4k run
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - Core
F - Indoor routes
S - Core
S - Rest
Monthly Avg - 50%
Yearly Avg - 60%
Just trying to keep ticking over. Keep the average up. Very busy at work and with social stuff.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Cheers viking, good to read your stats. I've recovered from the jetlag, but psyche has been pretty low. I feel like I've just been ticking over really. That's not to say the number of sessions has been too low (though I could increase that); I've just not been trying as hard. And that applies to everything: my running has been mostly plodding (no intervals), and I've not mustered the motivation to hang on the fingerboard properly (I know it's hard).
But hey, that's what Fit Club is meant to be for. Time to get back into it!
Last week:
M - 6k run
T - bouldering at TCA. worked by way around the greens. 2 took some work (both on the steep panel); 2 second go; the rest flashed. Only took an hour, but I was going at a decent pace.
W - 9.5km run
T - routes at Redpoint. Cruised the reds; maintained my 100% failure record on the blacks (seriously, I don't think I've ever climbed one of them clean). A bit of a workout for the fingers on some evil crimpy stuff.
F - Kettlebells class. These seem really good for working muscles that I never otherwise use.
S - Gym induction, turned out to be a mini personal training session. Very sore from the kettlebells.
S - Nothing. Tired, sore and hungover. Baked a panettone to remedy the skyrocketing weight.
Weight: 66.1kg
So, let's set some goals.
STG - build some strength/fitness
14 climbing sessions by end of Jan (average 2 per week, indoor or out, routes or bouldering. Just keep doing some climbing!)
7 fingerboard sessions by end of Jan (average 1 per week)
Core set after every indoor climbing session
70km running by end of January (average 10km per week)
MTG
spring: keep the pressure on the E4s. Still have to get on Star Wars (E4 5c), Mother Africa (E4 6a), Central Wall (E4 6a), Pacemaker (E5 6a), ...
summer/autumn sport trip: Ceuse or Frankenjura? Route objectives TBC when I actually plan something
BHAG
The Long Hope Route - Watched the film again recently, remembered why I found it so inspiring the first time round. It would be great just to climb on that wall, even if it involved taking the 'easier' variation finish or aid a bit.
> Nick Russell: How was this weeks training after having recovered from the jetlag (I assume)? Managed to get your psyche back? Is it just bouldering psyche or also routes?
Cheers viking, good to read your stats. I've recovered from the jetlag, but psyche has been pretty low. I feel like I've just been ticking over really. That's not to say the number of sessions has been too low (though I could increase that); I've just not been trying as hard. And that applies to everything: my running has been mostly plodding (no intervals), and I've not mustered the motivation to hang on the fingerboard properly (I know it's hard).
But hey, that's what Fit Club is meant to be for. Time to get back into it!
Last week:
M - 6k run
T - bouldering at TCA. worked by way around the greens. 2 took some work (both on the steep panel); 2 second go; the rest flashed. Only took an hour, but I was going at a decent pace.
W - 9.5km run
T - routes at Redpoint. Cruised the reds; maintained my 100% failure record on the blacks (seriously, I don't think I've ever climbed one of them clean). A bit of a workout for the fingers on some evil crimpy stuff.
F - Kettlebells class. These seem really good for working muscles that I never otherwise use.
S - Gym induction, turned out to be a mini personal training session. Very sore from the kettlebells.
S - Nothing. Tired, sore and hungover. Baked a panettone to remedy the skyrocketing weight.
Weight: 66.1kg
So, let's set some goals.
STG - build some strength/fitness
MTG
BHAG
In reply to Nick Russell:
I've still got the beta written down for the 7c+ I was trying in FJ if you do go. And if you need someone to trad with I'm looking to stage a 2016 comeback.....
In reply to hms:
I've still got the beta written down for the 7c+ I was trying in FJ if you do go. And if you need someone to trad with I'm looking to stage a 2016 comeback.....
In reply to hms:
In reply to Nick Russell & AJM:
I mentioned a trip to Sharpnose to the 4th member of our Chulilla trip and she was keen.
I'd definitely be enthusiastic for a trip back down there, and Boulder Ruckle scares the cr*p out of me, so that would probably be a good idea too...
I mentioned a trip to Sharpnose to the 4th member of our Chulilla trip and she was keen.
I'd definitely be enthusiastic for a trip back down there, and Boulder Ruckle scares the cr*p out of me, so that would probably be a good idea too...
In reply to AJM:
Awesome, I'll let you know of any trad trips, especially if I'm coming Swanage direction
Awesome, I'll let you know of any trad trips, especially if I'm coming Swanage direction
1
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks Viking - that sounds like a good celebration to me! This week was all about the race so rested down from midweek and Tuesdays session was shorter also:
M: am - 8/9M in 65:08 with the wife, pm - 4/5M in 30:02 with the wife (can't get rid of her, she runs too quick!)
Tu: pm - road session, 5 x 4min with 2min jog in between, felt like I was going well but held something back 9/10M total
W: am jog to work 2/3M, pm - run home 8/9M in 59:23, tried my hardest to keep it really steady
Th: am - 6/7M easy to work in 48:03
F: pm - 4/5M home from work in 30:18
Sa: am - 15min jog + strides felt good
Su: am - day of reckoning! Telford 10K. Weather was damp/ drizzly and pretty nippy for this but there was a good field and Olympian Hannah England was spotted before the start! This race always starts very quick and the first half mile is pretty much all downhill so I put myself a few rows back and then ran "with the brakes on" for the first downhill stretch. Got a bit more into my running and just before the first mile marker I started to overtake those who had gone off a bit hard. Mile marker came up, looked at watch...... 4:50 hmm so a bit quick but don't panic, you feel ok just go with it. Moved on a bit and got on the back of a group, 2 mile marker...... 9:50 - so thats fine just make sure you don't switch off now. Went to the front of the group and started chasing the next couple of guys down and mile 3 came up pretty quick. Went past the clock at 5K in around 15:15 which made me smile (inwardly) as from here all I had to do was keep fighting and I'd have to blow up spectacularly to miss sub 31. The next two miles were tough and it was a case of getting my head down and trying to pick people off. Going through 5 miles we just caught another two guys and at this point I tried to start and make a long run for home. However this lasted all of about 400m before two guys came back past! The pace just kept winding up and I knew I just had to stay with them for as long as possible. Soon enough the 200m to go sign arrived and although they got a gap I just had to sprint as much as possible to the line.......
The result: 20th in 30:49 - get in!!!! splits: 4:50, 9:50, 14:50 (15:15 for 5K), 19:55, 24:55, 30:49.
The wife also ran a PB (35:17) so it was a tired but happy journey home
Total Mileage ~60M so its back onto higher mileage this week but it was worth tapering for the result. Its a big goal ticked and although I've thought I ought to have been capable of it for a while now I've done it I'm not sure its really sunk in!!
> Humperdink: Thanks! I did celebrate with a 4 hour bouldering session and a huge bowl of ice-cream. Congratulations on the third place and on your wife’s second place, fast couple ! Good luck today! Did you manage to get sub 31?
Thanks Viking - that sounds like a good celebration to me! This week was all about the race so rested down from midweek and Tuesdays session was shorter also:
M: am - 8/9M in 65:08 with the wife, pm - 4/5M in 30:02 with the wife (can't get rid of her, she runs too quick!)
Tu: pm - road session, 5 x 4min with 2min jog in between, felt like I was going well but held something back 9/10M total
W: am jog to work 2/3M, pm - run home 8/9M in 59:23, tried my hardest to keep it really steady
Th: am - 6/7M easy to work in 48:03
F: pm - 4/5M home from work in 30:18
Sa: am - 15min jog + strides felt good
Su: am - day of reckoning! Telford 10K. Weather was damp/ drizzly and pretty nippy for this but there was a good field and Olympian Hannah England was spotted before the start! This race always starts very quick and the first half mile is pretty much all downhill so I put myself a few rows back and then ran "with the brakes on" for the first downhill stretch. Got a bit more into my running and just before the first mile marker I started to overtake those who had gone off a bit hard. Mile marker came up, looked at watch...... 4:50 hmm so a bit quick but don't panic, you feel ok just go with it. Moved on a bit and got on the back of a group, 2 mile marker...... 9:50 - so thats fine just make sure you don't switch off now. Went to the front of the group and started chasing the next couple of guys down and mile 3 came up pretty quick. Went past the clock at 5K in around 15:15 which made me smile (inwardly) as from here all I had to do was keep fighting and I'd have to blow up spectacularly to miss sub 31. The next two miles were tough and it was a case of getting my head down and trying to pick people off. Going through 5 miles we just caught another two guys and at this point I tried to start and make a long run for home. However this lasted all of about 400m before two guys came back past! The pace just kept winding up and I knew I just had to stay with them for as long as possible. Soon enough the 200m to go sign arrived and although they got a gap I just had to sprint as much as possible to the line.......
The result: 20th in 30:49 - get in!!!! splits: 4:50, 9:50, 14:50 (15:15 for 5K), 19:55, 24:55, 30:49.
The wife also ran a PB (35:17) so it was a tired but happy journey home
Total Mileage ~60M so its back onto higher mileage this week but it was worth tapering for the result. Its a big goal ticked and although I've thought I ought to have been capable of it for a while now I've done it I'm not sure its really sunk in!!
1
In reply to Nick Russell:
still 7 of the TCA greens I can't do. 2 are too shouldery for me to even risk. 3 steep ones I can have a fair crack at but not finish. 1 weird one may go with luck now I've had a foot positioning revelatione is totally down to height - saw a tallish chap just reach up with ease to do the problem although he then proceeded to fall off umpteen further greens which I hadn't considered at all hard.
still 7 of the TCA greens I can't do. 2 are too shouldery for me to even risk. 3 steep ones I can have a fair crack at but not finish. 1 weird one may go with luck now I've had a foot positioning revelatione is totally down to height - saw a tallish chap just reach up with ease to do the problem although he then proceeded to fall off umpteen further greens which I hadn't considered at all hard.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Been away from Fit Club for awhile but started training again now it's winter.
Currently trying to get better on steep ground and bouldering on steep boards at my local wall. Local wall is 5 mins from my house and I currently have a 6 month pass so I'm psyched for training.
Seen big improvements over the last couple of months.
Surprised to be able to still climb well with lots of core training this week, even with DOMS. I felt like my core was strong and "switched on". Steep board training is paying off and feeling stronger every session. Finding it a lot easier to keep tension, happy days!
Monday: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
-
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 knee tucks
-
5 x 10sec Spiderman
-
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 knee tucks
-
50 Crunches
Tuesday: Lunch - 10 Pull-ups
10 Press-ups
Deadlifts - 3 x 10reps (44kg)
3 x 30sec Dish-hold
3 x 10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Shoulder Raises (5kg each hand)
25 Crunches
Eve - Local wall
10min traversing and 5 easy problems to warm up
Set and worked some new problems:
2 x 7A's and 7A+
Managed one of the 7A's and fell off the last move on the other slopey anti-style one. Couldn't do one of the moves on the 7A+.
Repeated my blue project on the woody first go today and finished off campusing on jugs on the board.
Wednesday: Lunch - 10 Pull-ups
5 x 6sec (To failure) L-Hangs
5 x 10 Press ups
6 x 5 Off-set pull ups (Alternate arms)
1min of Superman holds (Alternating arms/legs)
Thursday: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
-
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 knee tucks
-
5 x 10sec Spiderman
-
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 knee tucks
-
50 Crunches
Eve - Local wall
10mins traversing and 5 easy problems to warm-up
20' Board - Repeated 7A I set the other day, strong mate couldn't do it which confirms the grade must be about right. Tried the moves on 7A+ and cracked the move I couldn't do on Tuesday, strong mate did it and then I did it straight after. Felt nails and probably the hardest thing I've done indoors.
Made a dodgy (obviously easier) replica of "The Ace" for a laugh and worked "The Joker" version of it, almost stuck the dyno.
45' Board - Realised the wall has a full set of the "Original School Room" set of holds (psyched!) so I stuck a load of them on the board, did a cool problem using them which took a fair few goes and worked some other problems.
Really satisfying finally being able to use small hand holds on the board and driving weight through my feet and holding tension well.
Going to use some of the hold set ups off the Moon site and try some of the problems on there next week.
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Rest
Sunday: Parisella's - Warmed up doing the end of Left Wall a few times. Not much dry in the cave apart from Left Wall, the stuff at the back and RA.
Did "Dust Kick" (7A), should of done it about 3rd go but fell off the end of Left Wall AFTER going around the corner... Then fell off the side pull jug before the ledge about 5 times before I finally did it after a massive rest...! My Power Endurance is woeful, feeling stronger on moves lately but linking anything feels like hard work. Think these long-ish boulders should hopefully sort that out?
Worked the moves on the 7A horizontal shot-hole start to Left Wall. Never really tried it properly before as I used to have quick random goes on it now and again and found it nails. Today I did all the moves pretty easily. Had no arms left for a link after getting completely powered out on the the previous problem though.
Been away from Fit Club for awhile but started training again now it's winter.
Currently trying to get better on steep ground and bouldering on steep boards at my local wall. Local wall is 5 mins from my house and I currently have a 6 month pass so I'm psyched for training.
Seen big improvements over the last couple of months.
Surprised to be able to still climb well with lots of core training this week, even with DOMS. I felt like my core was strong and "switched on". Steep board training is paying off and feeling stronger every session. Finding it a lot easier to keep tension, happy days!
Monday: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
-
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 knee tucks
-
5 x 10sec Spiderman
-
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 knee tucks
-
50 Crunches
Tuesday: Lunch - 10 Pull-ups
10 Press-ups
Deadlifts - 3 x 10reps (44kg)
3 x 30sec Dish-hold
3 x 10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Shoulder Raises (5kg each hand)
25 Crunches
Eve - Local wall
10min traversing and 5 easy problems to warm up
Set and worked some new problems:
2 x 7A's and 7A+
Managed one of the 7A's and fell off the last move on the other slopey anti-style one. Couldn't do one of the moves on the 7A+.
Repeated my blue project on the woody first go today and finished off campusing on jugs on the board.
Wednesday: Lunch - 10 Pull-ups
5 x 6sec (To failure) L-Hangs
5 x 10 Press ups
6 x 5 Off-set pull ups (Alternate arms)
1min of Superman holds (Alternating arms/legs)
Thursday: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
-
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 knee tucks
-
5 x 10sec Spiderman
-
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 knee tucks
-
50 Crunches
Eve - Local wall
10mins traversing and 5 easy problems to warm-up
20' Board - Repeated 7A I set the other day, strong mate couldn't do it which confirms the grade must be about right. Tried the moves on 7A+ and cracked the move I couldn't do on Tuesday, strong mate did it and then I did it straight after. Felt nails and probably the hardest thing I've done indoors.
Made a dodgy (obviously easier) replica of "The Ace" for a laugh and worked "The Joker" version of it, almost stuck the dyno.
45' Board - Realised the wall has a full set of the "Original School Room" set of holds (psyched!) so I stuck a load of them on the board, did a cool problem using them which took a fair few goes and worked some other problems.
Really satisfying finally being able to use small hand holds on the board and driving weight through my feet and holding tension well.
Going to use some of the hold set ups off the Moon site and try some of the problems on there next week.
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Rest
Sunday: Parisella's - Warmed up doing the end of Left Wall a few times. Not much dry in the cave apart from Left Wall, the stuff at the back and RA.
Did "Dust Kick" (7A), should of done it about 3rd go but fell off the end of Left Wall AFTER going around the corner... Then fell off the side pull jug before the ledge about 5 times before I finally did it after a massive rest...! My Power Endurance is woeful, feeling stronger on moves lately but linking anything feels like hard work. Think these long-ish boulders should hopefully sort that out?
Worked the moves on the 7A horizontal shot-hole start to Left Wall. Never really tried it properly before as I used to have quick random goes on it now and again and found it nails. Today I did all the moves pretty easily. Had no arms left for a link after getting completely powered out on the the previous problem though.
Post edited at 13:00
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks, I was pleased to see some gains with the weighted pull ups. It's a small thing, but it's in the right direction. El Chorro was a lot of fun. I'd been there twice before. We were climbing as a three, so weren't very efficient but I got some time on rock which seems to be a big issue. I was moderately happy with my performance. I definitely feel fitter and stronger than last year, but was climbing at a similar grade. I think the lack of progress is due a being a bit rusty and not so confident on the rope. I think setting the Dec goal for five sessions on rock and five roped sessions a month will be key and hopefully I'll get some better ticks soon. I've booked another 3 day trip to Chorro next month.
Monday - Bouldering long rests and shoulder stability
Tuesday - Christmas party
Wednesday - Sports massage
Thursday - nowt
Friday - travel to Chorro
Saturday - Climbing at Arab Steps. Easy routes then 6c onsight and 7a flash (Diedre Torpedol and Arabesque)
Sunday - Climbing in Frontales - warm up routes and 7a+ second go (Que Leche Que Tengo). I really recommend this route. It's an extension to a 6b and the full pitch gave us only one meter or so left over from an 80m rope.
Monday - Climbing in Desplomilandia. Warm up then 6c onsight and 7a second go (Yogur de Coco and Los Zauden).
December goals
Sessions on a rope 3 need 2 more
Sessions on rock 3 need 2 more
7a onsights 1 need 4 more
Next week - Our club has its annual bouldering competition, I need to get back into training as I was very slack this week and it's going to be challenging to get stuff done over Christmas as I'll be with the family and away from training facilities. I don't have any expectations of getting out on rock based on the weather, but would like to have a roped session, hopefully with some 7a onsights!
Tony
> TonyB: Congrats with the pullup PB! How is/was El Chorro? Managed to tick some of your goals?
Thanks, I was pleased to see some gains with the weighted pull ups. It's a small thing, but it's in the right direction. El Chorro was a lot of fun. I'd been there twice before. We were climbing as a three, so weren't very efficient but I got some time on rock which seems to be a big issue. I was moderately happy with my performance. I definitely feel fitter and stronger than last year, but was climbing at a similar grade. I think the lack of progress is due a being a bit rusty and not so confident on the rope. I think setting the Dec goal for five sessions on rock and five roped sessions a month will be key and hopefully I'll get some better ticks soon. I've booked another 3 day trip to Chorro next month.
Monday - Bouldering long rests and shoulder stability
Tuesday - Christmas party
Wednesday - Sports massage
Thursday - nowt
Friday - travel to Chorro
Saturday - Climbing at Arab Steps. Easy routes then 6c onsight and 7a flash (Diedre Torpedol and Arabesque)
Sunday - Climbing in Frontales - warm up routes and 7a+ second go (Que Leche Que Tengo). I really recommend this route. It's an extension to a 6b and the full pitch gave us only one meter or so left over from an 80m rope.
Monday - Climbing in Desplomilandia. Warm up then 6c onsight and 7a second go (Yogur de Coco and Los Zauden).
December goals
Sessions on a rope 3 need 2 more
Sessions on rock 3 need 2 more
7a onsights 1 need 4 more
Next week - Our club has its annual bouldering competition, I need to get back into training as I was very slack this week and it's going to be challenging to get stuff done over Christmas as I'll be with the family and away from training facilities. I don't have any expectations of getting out on rock based on the weather, but would like to have a roped session, hopefully with some 7a onsights!
Tony
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for doing fit club again Viking.
I got back from Geyikbayiri last night, it was absolutely amazing. Managed to do a couple of 6a+ routes, I also got horribly shot down by a few 6as which my ankle just wasn't up to dealing with. I felt pretty out of practice on the technique side of things but I would definitely have struggled a lot without some of the training which I have done recently. I did physio every night and climbed 6 out of the 7 days on the trip (didn't climb yesterday as I didn't want to hurt my ankle before sitting on the plane for 4 hours and having to drive home as neither of those are conducive to making it not hurt).
Today: Planning some climbing later on today at the climbing unit.
Sunday: Possibly some climbing if I'm not too hungover.
Monday: Swimming before work, climbing after work
Tuesday: Swimming before work, climbing after work
Wednesday: Same as above
Thursday: Same as above
Friday: Maybe some bouldering at Durham Climbing Centre depending on kicking out time at work.
Saturday/ sunday: Depends on family plans, probably nothing.
Thanks for doing fit club again Viking.
I got back from Geyikbayiri last night, it was absolutely amazing. Managed to do a couple of 6a+ routes, I also got horribly shot down by a few 6as which my ankle just wasn't up to dealing with. I felt pretty out of practice on the technique side of things but I would definitely have struggled a lot without some of the training which I have done recently. I did physio every night and climbed 6 out of the 7 days on the trip (didn't climb yesterday as I didn't want to hurt my ankle before sitting on the plane for 4 hours and having to drive home as neither of those are conducive to making it not hurt).
Today: Planning some climbing later on today at the climbing unit.
Sunday: Possibly some climbing if I'm not too hungover.
Monday: Swimming before work, climbing after work
Tuesday: Swimming before work, climbing after work
Wednesday: Same as above
Thursday: Same as above
Friday: Maybe some bouldering at Durham Climbing Centre depending on kicking out time at work.
Saturday/ sunday: Depends on family plans, probably nothing.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks Viking, still lurgy but now seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. Not a great week either last or this week.
Last week:
M: rest
T: Boulder big rock
W - T: rest
F: pathetic auto belay session Brookes
S: rest
S: Boulder climbing Unit
Thanks Viking, still lurgy but now seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. Not a great week either last or this week.
Last week:
M: rest
T: Boulder big rock
W - T: rest
F: pathetic auto belay session Brookes
S: rest
S: Boulder climbing Unit
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