In reply to Cellinski:
The link of Cellinski is to an article by Manu Rivaud of a long interview he had with Ueli Steck 16 Sept 2015 concerning the 4,000ers and which confirms his earlier posting. In this he specifically raised the issue of Martjin Seueren’s fatal accident on 22 July, that is the day after doing the Diables Arête and Mont Maudit. For those who don’t read French here is my summary of the section concerned which may help.
“Martjin was the only one of those who accompanied me I didn’t know.” Seueren a Dutchman of 32 with a solid Alpine record was also after the 4,000ers amongst other things. “When he had contacted me about joining me for the Jorasses via the Rochefort Arétes I certainly didn’t try and stop him coming.” That morning [22 July] at the Torino hut Seuren and his partner along with Steck started off together, but when they reached the Dent du Géant [a 4,000er] Steck separated to climb it on his own, and from the summit saw the other pair on the Arêtes which lead to the Canzio hut, where they would attack the five summits of the Jorasses next day. After descending and starting in turn along the Arêtes, he saw Seuren’s partner coming back alone, and learnt that Seuren had fallen. Rescue subsequently found his body in a crevasse on a flattening of the glacier 200m below. Steck immediately returned to Switzerland. “The family, his parents, had to be told, not easy when you don’t know the person. At that stage nothing was clear about continuing. I needed time to think, before deciding whether or not to carry on with my plan.” Five days were spent at Ringgenberg before Steck dispelled doubts and decided to go on.
New section: Ironman. Ueli departed 28th July parapenting from the Torino hut to the Val Vény. What followed was less sombre and it is neither Jon Griffith nor Heinz Heer, the last companions of the Swiss machine who will gainsay him (It is perhaps relevant to note that in the final ten days Steck soloed the Jorasses amongst many other impressive things, notably the Brouillard Ridge}.
The article finishes with Steck’s future plan, the South Pillar of Nuptse East in Alpine style with the American Colin Haley.
