UKC

I've recently joined a gym with the intention of trying to increase my power for climbing. (I've been told that's what I lack and bouldering just isn't enough and I'm really not good at it - too old for all that falling onto mats.)
I can't quite do a proper pull up but there's an assisted pull up machine so I'm using that. I'm also using the Lat pull machine and was wondering what sort of weight should I be pulling? At the moment I can do 5 reps of about 66% of my bodyweight (not easily, but with gurning/heaving), rest 3 minutes then repeat (twice). If I up it to about 75% of my bodyweight I can't quite do 5 reps.
Am I right in thinking for power I should be trying to pull as much as I can but for just 5 reps as opposed to more reps of a lower weight? What sort of % of my bodyweight should I be aiming for?
Anything else I can be doing as the gym's pretty well equipped? (I'm female, been climbing about 5 years - indoors about 7a onsight and desperate to match that outdoors next summer if possible.)
Thanks for any advice.

In reply to wert:
In very rough terms, After warms up; 8 or less especially nearer 3or 4 for strength and neuromuscular recruitment ie. Max power.
15 plus, endurance.
8-15, you'll gain some strength and endurance, but also bulk or body weight with it, which isn't so desirable.

There are much more specialist routines for climbing, but better to get accustomed to training first. Either way, train opposite muscle groups not just pulling muscles, back, chest, shoulders, also core stability stuff like abs etc..

I think just more climbing will get you where you want to be, if you can onsight 7a indoors you can not be that weak. Try to always climb with people better than you so you need to push yourself.

In reply to wert:

If you want big power gains. You want to look into the clean and jerk and snatch id recommend getting some expert advice on form though they are very technical exercises

In reply to wert:
As much weight as you can handle with good form (ie no leaning back - if you do lean make sure its less than 10 degrees, if the weight causes you to lean more than that drop it down) for 6-8 reps, as soon as you can do 8 then up the weight

Dont forget to work the agonist muscles and never work the same group on consecutive days (in fact, best stick to doing 3 non-consecutive workout days a week at most for now)

p.s as a newb lifter you should be able to add weight every workout!

edited to add; get yourself a copy of Starting Strength by Mark Ripptoe (its available as an ebook and a proper book), its one of the best books ever written to help you get started with weightlifting

In reply to WildCamper:


Highly recommend that book!

Anyway I don't have a huge amount of advice to the OP, but was finishing off reading 'Ice and Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique' - and the training section had a rough fitness guide for mixed climbing:

Up to WI5 - "strong enough to do 20 one-arm pull-downs with one-quarter body weight"
WI 6 - "able to do 20 one-arm pull-downs with half body weight"
M8/Difficult mixed - "do 5 one-arm pull-downs with three-quarters body weight"
M12/Competition - "do 10 one-armed pull-downs with three-quarters body weight"

(there was other stuff per each "level" as well)

I think this could be used as a rough guide for knowing how many pull-downs and with what percentage of bodyweight is a good amount for being strong for sport-climbing. (have fun converting).