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UKC Fit Club Week 458

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 0.5viking 27 Dec 2015
Placeholder, stats will come tonight.
 biscuit 27 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:

I hope everyone had/is having a lovely holiday.

Getting mine in early and put of the way so i can forget it and move on.

Very busy festive period, not at home much and lots of driving about. Now it's over it's time to get organised.

One session this week, it wasn't good. It went:

6a, 6b+ warm up - done
7b - fail with some shocking route reading. Got further than i thought as i had to change where i was going 4 times! Managed to get awful flash pump in my right arm that never went away.
7a+ - fail
7a - fail
6c+ - fail - hilarious moment when i'd changed to a 6a+ to make a clip and lower off, but still peeled of that with an armful of slack.
6b - fail - another hilarious moment. All the clips were off the right arm and i was nearly off about 3 times. Tried to make one more move to be able to clip off my left arm and discovered the hold was a slopey foothold. Off again!

It's very obvious i shouldn't have stuck with The Fox's tried and trusted warm up method. I tried to blame him but got reminded i'm an adult and make my own choices. I also hadn't eaten since lunch and even a slice of rocky road didn't fire me up.

Rookie errors and should have known better.

Will post later with next weeks goals.
In reply to 0.5viking: Hope you and everyone else had a superb Xmas (and a more productive week).

Currently lying in the afternoon sunshine beside the Nile having a very lazy time of it.

M - Token effort Bouldering @ Brookes.
T-S - On holiday for Xmas...

 hms 27 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:

well, I had another rather productive week, although even the most remote chance of getting outside due to unrelenting awfulness of wind & rain.

M - cycle commute. Redpoint hoovering up red core routes. A few caught me out. Then v creditable go on a black which I rather regret having left so late in the session. 14 tie-ins.
T - shoulder rehab. Urban walking.
W - TCA with D1. Raced round easy stuff to warm up, then had a really good go at about half the purples (6a+ to 6c). We got ~7 of the ones we tried. Plenty more scope for more sessions. Tried some of the steep after up to 6b.
T - UCR, circuits upstairs (to 7a+) then quick go on the downstairs ones. Struggled and they really aggravated my shoulder due to silly roof & cut loose moves so won't be going back to them. Some general bouldering to finish.
F - urban walking. ~3 miles.
S - was all set to do a fingerboard session when the MiL plonked herself in the kitchen. Decided to do planks after sshe had gone to bed instead - 10 mins, got quite warm.
S - UCR routes. 13 tie-ins, lots of back-to-back pairs. 5x7a although no tops (1 was a new fingery monster that people were grumbling about. Missed a foot right at the top on my best attempt & took a huge whipper). Did finish a 6c+ which I'd dropped the top of before. Knowing the next 2 holds are shite and one just has to go fast is v helpful.

so good volume, feeling strong, not too lardy either (not that there's too much risk of that)
 robbiebrookie 27 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:

Thanks Viking, best wishes for the new year to all!

Very quiet week for me, hit by the xmas lurgy last week, so nothing Mon-Fri.

Starting this week first phase of a periodised training cycle, 4 weeks Aero Cap work gradually increasing volume and duration.

M-F: Rest / Ill

S: Outdoor swim 1km in morning. 60mins Pilates Reformer in afternoon.

Su: Outdoor swim 1.2km in morning. 2 x 25min aero cap sets at Castle (route, climb up and down continuously, average 6b, 15min rest inbetween) plus warm up and down.

STG:
Jan-Feb periodised training; Aero Cap, Strength, and Power Endurance.
Get my Girlfriend recovered from her achilles tendon injury asap! Including swimming minimum 4 days per week at local outdoor lido.
Once a week - fun route climbing or Bouldering session.

MTG:
7a & 7a+ RP outdoor in 2016
E2 & E3 HP in 2016
 James Moyle 27 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:

Merry Christmas, everyone! Hope Santa filled your stockings with climbing goodies!

Mon - Run 6.9km - 150m of ascent
Wed - Run 4.5 km - 125m ascent
Sun - Cycle - 104km - 890m ascent

Alcohol and weight - laughable!
OP 0.5viking 27 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:

Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=631091
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Psyche video of the week: vimeo.com/136796442 Really impressive ascent and looks like a cool route.

Spenser: How was this week? Did you visit a bouldering venue on the road home?
Humperdink: Did you manage to hit the 90M target in this busy week?
James Moyle: Good you managed 3 sessions! Maybe it’s fair to start the food and alcohol goal in the new year . How was this weeks training?
Biscuit: Curious about your plan and goals regarding it! Can you share the secret for steep stuff with bad holds? Did you already start this week?
Robin Brooke: Good to hear rest helped for your shoulder! Do you already have some new route STG’s or will you just be focusing on your endurance and power without having some routes in mind?
TonyB: Congrats on winning the comp, and congrats for your wife as well! Did you manage to do some core while being away?
Nick Russell: Looks neat the way you keep track of your STG’s! How was psyche this week? And managed to do some fingerboarding?
AJM: Nice you got some outdoor climbing in and a weighted pullup session! How was this week?
The Ex-Engineer: It’s winter (although it doesn’t feel like it), so time to start thinking of winter climbing anyhow . Enjoy the sun!
Dandan82: Nice you saw some improvements! Did it work to do some things around the house for the elbows or was it a lucky day last week?
Ian Bell: Good you still felt strong after little climbing! How is Tenerife? Or haven’t you left yet?
Ally Smith: Even though you lacked psyche, that is still some impressive performance! How is Spain? Or are you still in the UK?
0.5viking: Try and formulate some 2016 goals!
Hokkyokusei: Good you’re back on it, even though not fully recovered! How was training this week?
Hms: Productive is quite an understatement there, what a week! Managed to repeat it this week?
Mattrm: Good your ticking over! Did you manage to get outside?
Just Tintin: Congrats on ticking the MTG! How is Mallorca?
Stevemarkperry: Smart to include the mental side of things in your goals as well! How was this week? Managed to stimulate recovery better?
Flopsicle: Congrats on the lead successes on the steep! Managed to do some more challenging leads this week?
Richard Popp: Always hard to keep a climbing session chill and easy . Managed to touch a rope this week?
Joyce: Crack climbing went better than ever before, still not perfect. As for tips -> practice makes perfect. Good your keeping up with working slopers! Any news on the bambino side yet?

Sorry for being late with the stats, was in hospital with my mom yesterday and slept till noon. Feel like I'm not finding the time to do the stats in the weeks to come. Can somebody take over? Thanks in advance!
 spenser 28 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:
Cheers for doing the stats viking, the psyche video was pretty mega. Once I've sorted myself out I'm heading off bouldering today (either Goldsborough Carr or Carrock Fell Crag depending on dryness and willingness to keep driving)
Last week was quite succcessful with bouldering on Sunday, Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday, felt completely wrecked after wednesday's session and the weather was awful on thursday afternoon's drive home so climbing would have been pointless.
This week:
Monday: Bouldering outdoors
Tuesday: Possibly evening trip to the wall or swimming
Wednesday-Sunday: Climbing outdoors where possible, will depend on weather.
Short term goal: Boulder f6B outdoors again (my previous highpoint before ankle breakage)
Medium term goal: Redpoint F7a or headpoint E4 (I need to get my head game sorted again, I got spat off so much stuff in Turkey that I wimped out of because of my ankle)
Long Term goal: Onsight E4
Sorry to hear about your mum being in hospital. I can do the stats next week if you want? MSc assignments will kick in again after that though so someone else will need to take over.
Post edited at 08:58
 biscuit 28 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:
Cheers Viking. Hope everything goes well on the family front.

The big secret for me was engaging core once you've hit a hold. Thats why I was always falling off steep stuff, not weak fingers.

Goals for this week:

Fingerboard X 1
Aero cap X 2 (maybe 3)
Fun session x 1 probably steep bouldering
Shoulder physio X 7
Lose 1lb and .5% fat
2 X rings sessions
Easy core X 7

STG's

I'm not setting indoor route targets as its training not performance and while I'm on aero cap it may get worse.

Bringing in an cap in Feb then an pow in March for a small first cycle before Easter.

Mtg

Chulilla at Easter - 7a+/b on sight. Re-assess where I'm at then before assembling next training cycle to peak end of summer. 12% bf or lower.

The thumb 8a Kilnsey by end of sept.

 Ian Bell 28 Dec 2015
In reply to biscuit:
Happy Xmas all, I'm impressed by so much effort in Xmas week.

Quiet for me, did 1250m swim yesterday and should do about the same again today. Kept up the 10 mins or so abs or yoga every day.

Tenerife tomorrow
Post edited at 10:35
 alexm198 28 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:

Hi again Viking, I've been away from FC for a few weeks to rest up after Chamonix and settle in the new house & job. Been getting back into regular, structured training over the last few weeks so now ready to get back to regular Fit Clubbing!

Hoping to get out on the weekends and get some good Scottish mileage over the winter, and have got 10 days in Rjukan booked for Feb. Plans are also in the works to climb Sweden's highest waterfall, Njupeskar, with a friend who lives in Stockholm, sometime in January, so those are my immediate aims.

This was the first week of a 10-week transition period where I'm just going to be focusing on getting my general strength and fitness up to a good level from which to launch into the meat of the 'base' period training. As before, my training is informed exclusively by House & Johnstone's TFTNA.

M: 8.7km Z1/2.
T: Core routine warmup followed by general strength routine.
W: 8.7km Z1/2.
T: [Driving back home from London for Christmas] Squeezed in some sets of ice axe pull-ups in the evening.
F: Rest.
S: Rest.
S: Core routine warmup followed by general strength routine.

In addition to this I've been doing a set of pull-ups and a set of pushups first thing every morning. I'm hoping that keeping this regular (even on rest days) will make it easier to stop the sense of lethargy that sometimes sets in after a period of rest. Hoping to incorporate some more yoga in the evenings into future weeks.

Goals:

STG (this week): Get up to Scotland on the weekend, get two routes done. Be more disciplined about your HR zones during cardio sessions.
MTG (Jan & Feb): At this stage in training, just control the psyche & stay injury free! Get Njupeskar done. Consolidate at WI5 in Rjukan.
LTG (2016): Scottish VII. Complete your 2016 alpine ticklist (10 routes). E2 O/S. Expedition in the autumn (maybe looking at Caucasus again, try to get things more concrete soon.)
 alexm198 28 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:

Also, hope everything's alright with your mum!
 TonyB 28 Dec 2015
Thanks. It's been pretty quiet for me.
Monday - pretty big session bouldering long rests, shoulder stability and rings
Tuesday - awesome walls sheffield. Was pretty tired as it was the fourth day on. Warm up with contumulus climbing 5, 6a, 6a+, 6b (no rest) then 6c onsight. I then alternated with my partner to try 6 7a's with limited rest. I only managed two. But was pretty pleased that I could make good attempts on all bar one even when I was pretty tired. Interestingly I did better the steeper the route and had a weakness for techy vertical routes
Wednesday - core

I read a pretty good book on the psychological side of climbing over Christmas, so keen to try and incorporate some ideas from this into my training.
In reply to TonyB:

What was the book, Tony?
 AJM 28 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:

> AJM: Nice you got some outdoor climbing in and a weighted pullup session! How was this week?

Cheers Viking. I didn't see whether you had other volunteers but I can probably do a few weeks in Jan if needs be.

This week wasn't bad thanks. Managed to get some stuff done around Christmas festivities.

Monday - board session. Spent the time working on a potential project on the 45. Got all the moves sorted out in the end, done in 2, just need to link. Not much volume though as I'd bruised my toe last weekend.

Tues/Wed/Thur - rest, I think.

Friday - eagerly pored through Rock Climbers Training Manual (the Anderson brothers one). Much thinking - have drifted off focus a bit with the proper BHAGs since the van trip, its all been a bit vague. Need to actually start putting some routes in the frame perhaps to boost motivation. Also got on the turbo trainer and did an ftr test to determine max sustainable heart rate for cycling training. Painful.

Saturday - tried to use the turbo again, f*cked it up completely setting it up and to boot the cleat and attachment plate came loose in one of my shoes so I had to spend some time trying to remove the cleat from the pedal. Frustrating.

Sunday - cuttings. Sea clag and grease. Had a go at Live by the Sword (7a+), but greased off the last hard move.

Monday - cuttings boulderfield. V for vendetta (6C+) in a couple of goes. Also tried workshy (7B) and couldn't get off the ground, and revisited Lightning Strike (7A+) - some beta improvements, linked back to my highpoint I think, need to sort out the feet under the roof for the few moves remaining. Ankle a bit sore - its basically my antistyle with roof feet trickery (heel toes etc) into a compression prow with crucial heel hook (hence the sore ankle, its quite full on). Worth persisting with though.

Probably do a fingerboard session when I get back home. Then London for a few days working and then a few days off with maybe some climbing or cycling at new year.

Have started tracking weight again on the "what gets monitored gets managed" logic. Have got goals sorted for next year and some short term things to do over the next few months.
 TonyB 28 Dec 2015
In reply to stevemarkperry:

Sorry I meant to mention it. It was called the vertical mind. It's an American book but is distributed in the UK by alpkit. I'm sure other people will get different things from it, but I was most interested in the section on enjoyment. I'be been very focused on achievement and possibly at the expense of learning and enjoyment. For a long time I've had the goal of climbing 8a before I'm 40. I think I'm getting close. Inwantbto complete yhis but then I want to rethink my future goals around what would make me happier and provide a better life balance. I'll probably focus on experiences rather than grades. I need time to think more, I'll leave it a few weeks but then I'll reread it as there are some important gems there.
In reply to TonyB:

Sounds like what I'm looking for. I stopped doing Fit Club a while back as I was getting too focused on performance goals and took some time out to have some fun and just enjoy things for a bit. It really made a difference and, in all honesty, my performance still increased albeit possibly a bit slower.

I'll check out the book. I've seen it a few times and nearly bought it.
In reply to 0.5viking:


Thanks Viking. Hope your Mum is ok?

I've learned in the past that it doesn't matter how hard you train your body, if your mind isn't strong enough then muscles and skill can mean nothing. Mental strength and fun are the foundation of all training for me now, anything else is a bonus. In the past I've been out-climbed by people with less skill and strength, out-raced by people who ride less than me and out-grappled by less experienced martial artists because my mind wasn't in the game and I just wasn't enjoying things. All of these people had more fight in them. They wanted it more. I've given up too many times without realising it at the time and I lost motivation for training because it wasn't working for me. It's all important but for me, my head game is where it's at for now. It's not about the dog in the fight, it's about the fight in the dog.

I didn't get chance to test my recovery this week as I got the lurgy on Christmas Eve of all days! Starting to clear up today (Monday).

Current objectives // limiter(s)
Be ready for Scottish winter trip (March) // mental strength.
Get second stripe on white belt in BJJ // consistency.
Thinking about entering some BJJ comps next year but unsure // mental strength, skill.
Winter Classic XC (first MTB XC race of season) is 9 wks away // strength endurance, consistent riding.

This week's targets // targeting limiter
Boulder x2 (1x strength, 1x strEnd) // skill, strength & strength endurance. -- only x1.
Complete the black 6a route that crosses the roof in the cave at Awesome Walls // skill, strEnd, persistence. -- didn't get chance on this.
BJJ x2 // consistency, mental strength, skill. -- x0, big fail here! Need to better space out different activities.
I have started doing some riding though as it's only 9 weeks away from my first race. Always creeps up on me this one.

M: Missed BJJ nogi class, tired from yesterday's early start and MTB ride. A bit disappointed but it happens.
T: Indoor bouldering. 1.5hrs in the cave at AWS. Felt strong and climbed well. Skipped evening BJJ.
W: 14 miles MTB local loop, sweetspot ride.
T: Developed lurgy.
F: Continued lurgy and enjoying Christmas. Cooked Christmas dinner for families.
S: 1hr walk with dog in the Peak. Family time.
S: 3hr walk with dog at Cannock Chase then 45 mins turbo sweetspot intervals. Feeling a bit better, lurgy clearing up?

Current weight: 142.5 lbs (Weight down again by a little bit. Ok up to 150.)
 biscuit 28 Dec 2015
In reply to TonyB:
It's a good book I reckon.

I've picked the same goal as you and am going to give it full effort over the next few months. However I've sorted a training program that is manageable, sensible and flexible. It also has the chance for a minor/major tweak in the spring. I think a lot of people think they need to do more than they actually do, get tired, frustrated, injured, stressed etc.

The way I'm (trying) to approach it is to enjoy the journey. I'm certainly wanting to get there but if I don't the world won't end. Ill have tried hard and learnt lots.
 hokkyokusei 28 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:

Thanks for collating the stats again.

> Hokkyokusei: Good you’re back on it, even though not fully recovered! How was training this week?

I did absolutely nothing, I got round two of the office chest infection, and it completely floored me. I'm still at a very low ebb now.

Need to think of some goals for next year.

In reply to 0.5viking:

Thanks Viking and hope your mum is better and that you've not had too hectic a time of it. Mallorca is good - conditions like a nice autumn day so hopefully should get some good stuff done. Much nicer than I expected too - I guess with all of these places once you leave the coast behind you leave the scary Brit tourists behind! Will think of some new goals for next year while I have some time!

M - rest
T - Boulder Climbing Unit green circuit volume
W - checked out Baslow but too windy so a hit on the trackside at Curbar then WBL Wirksworth
T - walk with mum
F - S - eating and playing board games
S - warm up day in Mallorca - 8 climbs to 6a+ onsight. Lots of fingery stuff so need to be careful with skin to get through the week!

 Humperdink 29 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:

Thanks for doing the stats and hope everything is ok now with your mum.....

Didn't quite mange the mileage but got close

M: am - 10/11M off-road in 69:58, pm - 4/5M road in 31:43
Tu: am - grass/mud session. V windy. Did loop which goes across the top of an exposed ridge then down below it, contours gently upwards then back down again before a very steep climb back up on top of the ridge. Session was 2laps, 1lap, 2laps, 1lap with 3mins/2mins recovery. Times were 12:19, 6:15, 12:28, 6:19 so slowed a bit but not much. 11/12M total
W: am - 3hrs in the car to visit family broken up by a run 8/9M in 60:10, pm - 4M in 30:05 tired!
Th: am - v.wet/ windy + cold got absolutely soaked! 11/12M in 1:20:44, pm - had to escape family! 4/5M in 30:08 felt good
F: am - 8/9M in 61:35 then spent the day cooking Christmas lunch for everyone (with the wife) and then drove 3hrs home
Sa: Tired! am - 6/7M in 49:02
Su: 4/5M in 30:48 - no log run as was racing the following day.

Total - approx 80M (bit generous this but it was Christmas week!). So missed 90 but that was due to no long run as I was racing yesterday and you'll have to wait until next week to find out how it went!

Hope everyone had a great Christmas break.
 Ally Smith 29 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:

Thanks for the positive comments, but I'm making an anti-new years resolution and bowing out for a while.

I've lost a hefty dose of psyche for training and found a brilliant female distraction to fill the gap. I'm not quitting climbing or biking, just stopping the structured training, so ciao for now.
 AJM 29 Dec 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:

> Thanks for the positive comments, but I'm making an anti-new years resolution and bowing out for a while.

> I've lost a hefty dose of psyche for training and found a brilliant female distraction to fill the gap. I'm not quitting climbing or biking, just stopping the structured training, so ciao for now.

But... But... How am I going to cope without your "positive encouragement" and other gems of training wisdom?

 biscuit 30 Dec 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:
If you think happiness lies anywhere other than training and chasing arbitrary goals you're wrong. You'll be back!
 The Fox 30 Dec 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:

> Thanks for the positive comments, but I'm making an anti-new years resolution and bowing out for a while.

but you're still good for the wall? Right? Right???????

 Joyce 30 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:

Morning Campers -

Festive greetings to one and all (and sundry!). Thanks for stat-ting Mr V, we're sending positive vibes to yer Mum!

Training Diary WC 21/12/15
And Now We Wait…

Monday – DIY all day (hall way now finished – last proper job so can start on the climbing wall now). Also, Easy/Tempo Run with Tom: 8.5km in 38:10 at 4:29m/km. GAP 4:23m/km as 111m of ascent. Smashin’ along.
Tuesday – Wall building all day except for TCA with Tom. Ticked the 7A Orange dyno problem – stoked on this as it comprises superb moves, is very much anti-style and took many attempts. Also ticked a few purples (6A – 6C circuit). Finished with 40 mins 1 on/ 1 off on various circuits.
Wednesday – 14 hours of wall building.
Thursday – 10 hours of wall building.
Friday – Christmas Day… and relax.
Saturday – Parkrun with Tom: finished 6th in 18:52 at 3:46m/km. GAP 3:42m/km as 56m of ascent. Had a withering headwind down the back straight on each of the three laps but managed to scrape in just 1s behind my PB for this course. Stoked on this as I haven’t done much speed work recently so wasn’t sure how I’d go – my pace did fluctuate a fair bit but alright overall as had 3 good km out of the 5. Also, I was 30s off my all-time PB and so were almost all of the runners in the top 25, if that was the effect of the headwind then I is stoked-er than stoked! PM: 2 mile walk with the good lady wife to ‘get the bambino moving’. 4 hours of wall building in the evening.
Sunday – Helllooooooo Pippy G! Bambino has landed and everyone's alright.
Short Term Goals
Be awesome bambino and good lady wife support crew. Other than that, slip in short bursts of climbing/running/finishing off the Supershed wall while we’re all asleep.
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+ - on it when wall sorted.
Slopers, slopers, slopers, heel hooks (and other weaknesses) –lovin’ the slopers. Need to do more heel hooking and heel to hand move practice – also on it when wall sorted.
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’ (nope – more interested in ‘The Poop’ than ‘The Loop’ just now).
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability - nope.
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff - nope. At least one BM session a week – nope. Core stuff: 3 core sessions – nope – too much DIY to do – have been doing the odd press up after clambering and they feel gooooood! Can do this kinda stuff this week.
Cuddle my new bambino lots when it lands – mucho mucho!
Build a wall in my Supershed when not cuddling the aforementioned bambino – on it.
Weight = 70.3kg (not bad after 4 Christmas dinners in 5 evenings!)

Looking forward to your return, Mr Smith. I'm sure that you'll be checking in and steering the likes of me (enthusiastic but rubbish) towards something that resembles some sort of semblance of an effective training plan.

Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
 mattrm 30 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for doing the stats.

STG - Keep doing some climbing

Weight - 12st 9lbs - argh! christmas!!!

M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - Core
F - Core
S - Rest
S - Core

Monthly Avg - 60%
Yearly Avg - 60%

Also have lost my psyche, so just ticking over still. Hopefully some kind of motivation will return in a few months with the return of the sun. With that in mind I need to remain vaguely fit and not too fat.

Ally - you'll be back! Seriously tho, with you and IanRUK gone, it's odd.

Mr Viking - hope your Mum is better soon.
Post edited at 12:59
 Nick Russell 30 Dec 2015
In reply to stevemarkperry:
> I got the lurgy on Christmas Eve of all days! Starting to clear up today (Monday).

I'm not the only one then! Not good timing, I could have done with a few good runs given the amount of food around
 Nick Russell 30 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:
> Nick Russell: Looks neat the way you keep track of your STG’s! How was psyche this week? And managed to do some fingerboarding?

Best wishes to your family, I hope you're mum's ok. Thanks for doing the stats. Psyche was ok for a couple of days until the Christmas Eve lurgy. I fear this and the next are not going to be the most interesting posts I've made on here!

M - 6km run as 60s on/30s off. Fingerboard: not bad given that it's the first time in months. Need to do more.
T - Gym at lunch time. Some pulls, some core. TCA after work. Decent session ticking some purples, and attempting some steep stuff on the mothership. Shut down by everything but had a decent go on a 6B+, fell off tickling the finishing hold.
W - lurgy
T - lurgy
F - lurgy
S - lurgy
S - lurgy

Weight: 67.2kg. Up 500g on last week, 1kg on two weeks ago and 2kg on mid-November. I see a new STG coming...

STG - build some strength/fitness
  • 14 climbing sessions by end of Jan (average 2 per week, indoor or out, routes or bouldering. Just keep doing some climbing!) 4/14
  • 7 fingerboard sessions by end of Jan (average 1 per week) 1/7
  • Core set after every indoor climbing session 4/4, 100% (I'm counting Tuesday even though the core was before climbing at lunch time rather than after.)
  • 70km running by end of Jan (average 10km per week) 20.5/70
  • Weight below 66kg again by end of Jan. This is a perfectly reasonable level for me and quite easily attained, I'm not interested in any more aggressive cutting until I have a particular performance goal, e.g. sport climbing trip.

    MTG
  • spring: keep the pressure on the E4s. Still have to get on Star Wars (E4 5c), Central Wall (E4 6a), Mother Africa (E4 6a), Pacemaker (E5 6a), ...
  • summer/autumn sport trip: Ceuse or Frankenjura? Route objectives TBC when I actually plan something.
  • Snowdonia marathon 29/10/2016. Some of you will remember that I attempted this a few years back and was so blighted by over-training injuries that I pulled out before the event. I'm confident that I can manage it a bit better this time round, especially after a decent year of consistent (if not particularly high) mileage.

    BHAG
  • The Long Hope Route
  •  Ally Smith 30 Dec 2015
    In reply to The Fox:

    > but you're still good for the wall? Right? Right???????

    Of course I bloody am - so long as you mean The Depot...
     flopsicle 30 Dec 2015
    In reply to 0.5viking:

    Thanks so much for the thread again Viking. Hope your mum is ok? If you get really stuck for the stats I'll have a bash but it might be a bit hectic and I don't know my areo cap from my knee cap!

    I had a very strange week and I'm not sure I can remember what I did or didn't do!

    Mon - 2 mile hilly run

    Tues - 2 mile hilly run

    Weds - ? Oh yes, I remember! Climbing session to give the pal who belays me his chrimbo pressie, Munchkin came too so saying it was laid back would be an understatement! I did one decent lead of the headwall because Munchkin wanted a top rope putting up so she could do it. I did get a bit of climbing in.

    Thurs - 2 mile hilly run once Munchkin had gone to her Dad's

    Fri - 3.5 mile hilly run, cooked chrimbo dinner for 5, packed it into hot boxes and took it 10 miles to feed parents brother and Munchkin! I'm counting the meals on wheels as I'm sure stressing took more than the run did.

    Sat - MY christmas at friends, sadly I was so bloody tired I just nodded off on the sofa once munchkin was in bed.

    Sun - Munchkin was supposed to be spending 4 days with her Dad on a trip to his inlaws, he cancelled 2 hours before pick up so Munchkin in tow for climbing - net result was pretty much zero proper climbing for me but lovely time with little 'un.

    I also squeezed in a WBL session but cannot remember how or when - I do remember being pretty off it still. I think my previous niggles are all good now but really struggling to feel good bouldering still. I feel crap at it.
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Always get it this time of year. Luckily it didn't last long.
    OP 0.5viking 03 Jan 2016
    In reply to 0.5viking:

    Sorry for not replying, life got in the way. Thanks for all the concerns, my mom is doing ok . Would be great if someone (spenser or AJM) could take over the thread for a while, next week I'm not at home and after that I'm starting a new job in the mountains in the weekends, so I don't have a clue about internet over there. Sorry to see you leave Ally, it was always motivating watching your ascents and goals!

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