UKC

Placeholder following 0.5 Viking's post just now on week 458.

If anyone (Spenser) has been working on stats already then just drop them in, otherwise I can put some together tonight when I get home.

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy. Life is too busy here for me to reliably step in, sorry.

Last weeks' goals:

Fingerboard X 1 - DONE
Aero cap X 2 (maybe 3) - DONE
Fun session x 1 probably steep bouldering - NOT DONE
Shoulder physio X 7 - DONE
Lose 1lb and .5% fat - DONE
2 X rings sessions - 1 DONE
Easy core X 7 - 3 DONE

A pretty good week as it didn't actually start for me until Wednesday, hence missing out the 'fun' session.

Fingerboard - i took it easy. It didn't feel like much of a work out, but i was glad of notpushing it the next day. Fingers felt worked, which is good. Max hangs not repeaters etc.

Aero cap was 30min on 10min off x3 on autobelays. Routes from 5+ to 6b to vary the pump - mostly the bottom end though. Used it to work technique etc. One noticeable thing was no skin soreness after 3 hrs of climbing successive days. Mainly due to tensing my core i think. It meant i had plenty of time to take the hold correctly and accurately and weight it when needed.

Diet/sleep/physio/stretching etc has all been good and consistent. Weight has dropped and BF% down. This weeks score is average for the last week. Run about 12 miles as well, easy pace.

This weeks goals:

Fingerboard X 1
Aero cap X 2
Fun session x 1 probably steep bouldering
Shoulder physio X 7
Lose 1lb and .5% fat - 155lbs + 20%BF (i feel the need to point out my scales add1% for every year from 35 onwards) 15% seems about right.
2 X rings sessions
Easy core X 7

Fun session is going to be at some place called the Depot. It's supposed to be a small scruffy training facility but still worth checking out Can't wait!

STG's

I'm not setting indoor route targets as its training not performance and while I'm on aero cap it may get worse.

Bringing in an cap in Feb then an pow in March for a small first cycle before Easter.

Mtg

Chulilla at Easter - 7a+/b on sight. Re-assess where I'm at then before assembling next training cycle to peak end of summer. 12% bf or lower.

The thumb 8a Kilnsey by end of sept.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks for picking up the thread AJM.

Still trying to shake off the xmas lurgy, slowly getting better, low intensity week. Bit of swimming and casual routes at Castle.

Will re-start endurance / aero cap in mid-Jan when the new auto-belays installed in the wells at the Castle.

M: 1.5km swim

T: Leading at Castle. 7a (Black), 6c (Red), 6c+ (Pink), 7a (Red, working). Warm-ups: 5+, 6a

W: Rest

Th: 2km swim

F: Rest

S: Castle. 7a (Black), 6c+ (Pink), 7a (red RP working moves), 7a (red TR clean). Warm-ups 6a, 6a+, 6b

S: 1.5km Swim

STG:
Indoor 6c+ to 7a+ RP's
Get my Girlfriend recovered from her achilles tendon injury asap! Airboot came off on 31/12, walking/hobbling and swimming now.
Start four week endurance and strength cycle in mid-January

MTG:
Lots of 7a & 7a+ RP outdoor in 2016
E2 & E3 HP in 2016
Euro road-trip start in April

In reply to biscuit:

That's an awful lot of aerocap.

If you've not listened by the way Tom has done a podcast on Trainingbeta recently which has some discussion of aerocap you might find interesting.

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy. Yes i have heard it. For me there's so much conflicting evidence out there and different ideas built around it. I've often got half way through 'something' and then been diverted away by 'something else' that promises better results. If i do/don't improve i don't know why.

I need to see what works for me. I know Tom is very science based, but so is John. I've put my faith in my coach and i'm going to do the whole cycle up to Easter to see what's worked and hasn't. Besides i've a lot of technique to engrain and i'm using it for that too. Helps relieve the boredom.

PS you wouldn't happen to have some kind of a spreadsheet, so i can do my training diary electronically, would you? I bet it makes graphs and all sorts If it's adapted for you personally fair enough but i don't have the time/knowledge to do one for myself.

In reply to biscuit:

I had one for weight, working out the actual weight of fat/muscle/etc and doing 7 day averages and so on, but I don't think I ever built a spreadsheet for other stuff.

I need to go through the plan for the upcoming months really and decide what can be usefully quantified - one of my new year resolutions is to get back into properly (quantitatively) logging training and weight loss and so on.

In reply to AJM: A little surge in psyche from a combination of being in Chulilla now and bookin Flatanger for summer has given me some motivation to post on here - new year new start ect.

New goals:
VSTG - Onsight 7c+ before going home in two days.
MTG - get strong and somehow manage to get fit at the bouldering wall
LTG - climb 8b in Flatanger.

Mon - rest
Tue - rubbish day at Marin, only went for convenience and on 3hrs sleep didn't perform well on some disappointing routes.

Wed - better day at Forada. Warmed up then (nearly) onsighted all the Top 50 7s of the crag - 7a, 7a, 7a+, 7b+, 7b+. One fall on the second 7b+ which was very annoying because I just chose the wrong hold, but was pleased with the other.

Thurs - Secret Crag. Secretively onsighted a 7b+ and a 7b, both 40m, both very good.

Fri- rest

Sat - first day at Chulilla. Warmed up then 7a, 7b, 7b+, 7b onsight. Los Francesca's, the 7b+, was amazing! Super pumpy again, just about held on.

Sun - awesome day. Warmed up then 7a, 7b, 7c, 7b+ onsights. Super happy with the 7c, Cap I Cua. 40m with lots of technical sections separated by good rests - just as well as I'm really not very fit at the moment! And then managing a 35m 7b+ straight after was the cherry on top.

Genuinely pleasantly surprised with how I'm climbing. I've only bouldered for the last 3 months besides a couple of trips to the wall last week, so I must have retained some kind of base-level fitness from summer, but it feels great to be back onsighting mega sport routes!

Cheers, Jake

In reply to AJM: thanks Andy-I owe two weeks I'm afraid. Struggling to focu a bit due to external pressures but ticking over as well so don't want to drop out now.

M-yoga, then worked 12pm-2am
T-off to Boulders in Cardiff, forst time I have ties into rope for atleast six weeks, about 12-14 routes to 6b+, very enjoyable and felt little or no apprehension about going for it. The one harder route just shut me down, could do each move in isolation but putting them together-no, felt harder then 6c+
W-Yoga
T-TCA ticked a few more of the new purples, felt quite easy.
F-Xmas day-worked 5pm to 2am, enjoyed it
S-Fingerboard-worked 5pm to 2am, tiring.
Su-cant quite remember

M-fingerboard
T-much driving visiting folks
w-fingerboard cut off by arrival of guests
Th-proper fingerboard.
F-long yoga
Sat-fingerboard
Sun-TCA, felt very creeky, new yellow F5+-6b felt hard, I would normally flash at least 50% of this circuit, but not today.

So all OK, nothing spectacular but OK as a starting point to a new year, did a 4.5 mile run with large hill in it.

Plan for this week
2 "strength" session- 4x4 (may be 3)
2 fingerboard sessions-general upper body core workout, not fingers
1 run
yoga and shoulder as and when.

happy new year to all.

rich

In reply to AJM/All:

OK so I think I'm going to re-join Fit Club! Looking back I last posted in week 344 I think (late October '13) so it's been a while. This post is very long as I've started it with a self-indulgent precis of what I've been doing the last 2 years, what I've learnt from it and why I'm re-joining. Obviously ignore if you've no interest

In 2013 I was really psyched for trad onsighting and although I got a good number of E2 & E3s done in comparison to previous years, I struggled for partners and conditions in the second half of the year (everyone wanted to climb sport, boulder or headpoint) so I got a bit demotivated. This was why I initially stopped posting here.

Despite the above I gradually got more psyched for Sport again and put together a periodised training plan for 2014 with the aim of getting on the road to F8a and peaking in September/October. This was based on the Alex Barrows - esque training theory with a bit of adaptation for (a) timings of my trips and (b) an injury I picked up in December 2013 that took a few months to fully heal. Also worth noting that a new wall opened in Derby in spring '14 called the Climbing Unit - a huge improvement for indoor bouldering over Alter Rock - this made indoor bouldering training after work much better.

At the start of 2014, instead of coming back to Fit Club, I decided to do something a bit different and keep a training diary instead on a calendar on my kitchen wall, so that it was more constantly visible and in-my-face. I record on this any activity I do on a given day (coded as HANG, BLOCi, BLOCo, SPRTi, SPRTo or TRAD - you can work it out) and my weight every Sunday evening immediately before going to bed. This has worked well, I've kept it up for 2 years so now have a decent amount of 'data' (see more below) and am going to keep doing it in parallel with posting here.

The basic summary of 2014 is that I got better and had some good successes [eg Cry of Despair (F7c) in 2 very short sessions, and Bistec de Biceps (F7b+) in a morning on a trip to see Andy in Siurana] but didn't actually tick F7c+, never mind F8a. I spent a long time failing on a couple of F7cs that should have gone quickly, and had a couple of sessions on Arch Enemies (F7c+) in late summer, but it felt depressingly far-off. After this point my motivation for Sport dropped a bit and hence it's fair to say that I gave up on the periodised plan to a large extent.

Over late autumn/winter 2014/15 the bouldering conditions were really good and that (probably combined with the better wall training facilities) meant I got a lot of good bouldering ticks including my first 5 or so Ft7Bs between November and February. This got me psyched to carry on bouldering so I decided to just stick with it for as long as I was enjoying it and getting better. Over the course of this year I've got quite a lot stronger, ticked about another ten Ft7Bs and approx 50 new Font 7s in total (mostly on peak limestone, with some grit at the beginning and end, and a few elsewhere like the Churnet). I had one day doing trad in May but haven't clipped a bolt all year (although I have done quite a few boulder traverses, so power endurance is pretty ok). In October/November after a successful Font trip, I spent 8 sessions on Moffatrocity (Ft7B+) at Crag X and got ridiculously close, falling off on my best go while trying to match the finishing holds. At one time this was given F7C, so I see it as a really positive marker of progress. Overall 2015 has been my best year's climbing for a long time - definitely the biggest break-through since I first started seriously Sport climbing in 2010. I'm keen to keep this up and keep enjoying the bouldering (especially peak lime) but also get back on some routes (sport for now, not trad.)

Looking back over the last two years (with some use of the data I've picked up from my calendar-based training records) I've learnt a few lessons about what works, at least for me:
- There is a strong correlation between my body weight (which for reference over that period has varied between 11st9lbs and 10st13lbs when measured on a Sunday night - I have 5ft11) and how well I perform.
- I can lose/maintain weight simultaneously with training and performing well, as long as I time things right. Basically this means running a calorie deficit with loads of fruit & veg and zero unhealthy stuff Monday-Thursday (except when trying a problem outside on one of those evenings) then eating more calorie dense stuff Friday/Saturday so that I fill up with less veg inside me, so I'm lighter for climbing Saturday/Sunday. I then eat a lot post-climbing.
- The best way for me to get stronger is to go bouldering, outside, a lot. I think this is because for me I was much more motivated and pushing myself far harder when bouldering outside (without realising this at the time) than inside or on a fingerboard. On the problems I was trying outside all summer/autumn, I found all the individual moves really hard, and linking them took a lot of effort - some of the problems took me 5-6 sessions to link. Indoors, I rarely used to actually spend time on something this close to my limit because there were always good problems just next-door (often given the same grade!) that I could do quickly or be more sure of eventually succeeding on. Another interesting note, that I actually improved more at one-arm lock-off strength on the beastmaker medium crimps by bouldering a lot this year, than I did by training on the beastmaker a lot last year. And obviously a I got better at bouldering in other ways too.
- Obvious conclusion from the above is that to get stronger quicker, I've really got to pull as hard as possible. This means only doing things I find really hard, and which are fairly steep. Ergo I now think doing bouldering circuits at the wall is sub-optimal, as long as I am still enjoying the harder problems and hence staying motivated.
- I think I am going to improve more in the long run by focusing only on improving my strength and power, than I am by doing a varied periodised plan with a particular goal in mind late in the year (which is what I did in 2014.) Therefore although my goals for this year include routes, I'm not going to do any endurance training, other than by trying hard boulder traverses (and definitely nothing like Aerocap.) I'll just be bouldering a lot. In a podcast that Ben Moon did with Trainingbeta last year, he said that in the 80s/90s he just used to get strong by bouldering a lot (outdoors, and indoors on the board), and then build up his stamina on the route itself that he was trying, over the course of a number of sessions. This chimed with me a lot and is the approach I'll be taking. (Admittedly it probably works better for Peak lime than for Euro-stamina-fests - but I'm not currently very interested in those.)

I'm basically keen to do Fit Club again because if I'm going to achieve my goals this year, I need to see further constant improvement from now, not just from the spring when I can get outside in the week again (and hence do more bouldering outside). I think a more structured plan is probably needed for the next 3 months if I'm going to achieve that, and this might help me keep to it. Secondly I actually quite enjoy writing about what I've done and Fit Club is a more interesting record than just my list of acronyms on the calendar

Second post coming with goals and this last week...

In reply to Si dH:
...
And so, 2016 goals are as follows:
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone (ideally 11 stone flat on a Sunday night, which implies 10 stone 12 when I wake up Monday morning - a couple of pounds more than this is acceptable though.)
- Jan/Feb: Jerry's Traverse (Cratcliffe) and at least 3 other grit 7Bs. [I originally wrote this on ukb on 30th Dec, then went out on 31st Dec and 1st Jan, and managed to do T Crack NYE and A Case of Mistaken Identity NYD (I'd had a few previous sessions on both.) So in theory I've only got one more to go plus Jerry's.]
March: Do Crazy Horse (7B) and either Magic Bus or La Barre Fixe (7B+) in Font. After Font, do Moffatrocity if it's dry, or Wright's Traverse (7B) if Moff is still wet.
April: Moffatrocity if not done in March, then Eastwood Traverse (7B+). Start doing some limestone or Churnet bouldering in the evenings again once the clocks change.
May/June/July: Do a few more Font 7Bs on limestone or sandstone, and do Arch Enemies (F7c+)
August: Continue bouldering and, if Arch Enemies went well, try the moves on a couple of F8as (obvious candidates would be Powerplant or Free Monster)
September: Do the F8a.
October: Once finished (for good or bad) with the F8a, I'd like to try Paint it Black (Ft7C) at Blackwell Dale.
November/December: Finish off Paint it Black if it feels doable and stays dry for long enough. Then get on the grit, goals being a Ft7B+ and maybe try Tetris (Ft7C) if we have good weather/conditions (ie not like the last 2 months!)

I've also marked the above on my kitchen wall training calendar and will try to remember to re-post them (in shorter words) each week.

I don't have a BHAG - I'm more motivated just by wanting to see continued improvement and enjoying doing better and harder routes and problems each year.

Training aims each week will generally be a wall session on Monday, a wall session on Tuesday, rest Wednesday, a fingerboard session on Thursday, rest Friday, and getting outside on Saturday or Sunday (this is the best way to make it fit well with my wife's evening commitments.) Sometimes I'll swap Monday and Thursday if I'm short of skin after the weekend.
What I need to focus on is making sure my wall and fingerboard sessions are good quality (see comments above), so I'll try to keep a record of this. 'Wall' always been The Climbing Unit which I'm fortunate is basically on my way home from work; the fingerboard is in my cellar.
Once we reach April I expect to replace one of the indoor sessions each week with an extra session bouldering outside. If work permits I'll occasionally do this twice in a week.

I spent the whole of the last week staying with my parents so didn't do any training (got home today), but I guess I should post anyway!

My weight last Sunday night was 11st3lb.

M: Nothing of note (I just tend to do lots of press-ups/sit-ups/star-jumps around the house at Christmas and New Year just to keep my metabolism going while I stuff myself)
T: No climbing training but did an ~11 mile walk in the morning with my wife along the sandstone trail
W: Nothing of note
T: Morning session at Cratcliffe (10-1230ish). Did T Crack, Ft7B. (can talk endlessly about sequences if anyone is interested). Didn't drink and went to bed at 00:30.
F: Morning session at Stanage (930-12ish). Did A Case of Mistaken Identity, Ft7B. Previous night's abstinence well worth it.
S/S: Nothing of note

Was really pleased with Thursday/Friday as they were the first problems I've actually ticked since mid November. Feeling pretty psyched by this but am aware that they basically just came together following hard work over several sessions and good beta - I need to not be complacent and get straight back in to training after 2 weeks off.

That took longer to write than a full training session. If you read both posts and got this far I'm impressed, thanks!

Si

In reply to Si dH:

Welcome back. And yes, I did read both essays

In reply to AJM:

Thanks, Andy, for stepping in.

MON - Run - 7.6km - 240m ascent
TUES - A tiny bit of bouldering but most time spent belaying the kids
WED - Run - 4.9km - 180m ascent
THUR (NYE) - Not sure whether this counts but an hour of ice skating. Certainly used some different muscles and good for core strength
SAT - CYCLE - 25km - 520m ascent

Weight and alcohol still silly - I'll admit to getting to the heaviest I've been for a very long time (probably since playing rugby 15 years ago). From tomorrow, a reduced carb diet. I find it easy to cut out sugar but harder to lose bread.

Have bought some books this week which I hope will help to keep me motivated.

Happy New Year everyone and I hope you meet all of your targets for 2016!

In reply to AJM:

Nice one. Ruth just said 'TLDR'

In reply to AJM:

M - fingerboard. Warm up, then 10 sec deadhangs with +15kg (got 10kg of extra metalwork for Christmas!), warmdown
T - Bloc. Long session trying lots of blues and getting up significantly fewer.
W - UCR. Was there as support belayer/rope gun but managed 8 circuits (to hard 7a+ - not clean) plus 6 lead routes (2 goes on a 7b but shut down on 1 move at 1/2 height and 2 moves off slopers near the top) and 2 TR routes (unforgiving 6c & 6b+ in the TR area - hard!)
T - urban walking. felt rather rubbish after yet another drenching in the non-stop rain.
F - still felt rubbish. S&C x 2 but realised I quite probably had a temperature so stopped. Shoulder rehab.
S - TCA trying new yellows. Good set - flashed many, needed a bit of thought for some. 3 eluded me but may well go when fresher. 3 not tried yet. Looking forward to a rematch.
S - yet more urban walking in the rain. Fingerboard as per Monday.

Busy week but could have wished for more routes. This coming week likely to be less busy - me returning to work (boo!), 2 family birthdays, D2 returning to school, D1 returning to uni.

In reply to Si dH:

Hi Si,
I think we climbed together at Raven Tor a couple of years ago and I saw you at Rubicon a few months ago. I've got similar goals to you (8a this year) and live quite close to you (Loughborough). If you need a partner in the Peak, I'd be happy to team up. I've never tried Arch Enemies but would also be keen to try it.
Cheers, Tony

In reply to AJM:

Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=631397
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Psyche video of the week: vimeo.com/147835161 works for me, since I'm off there soon!

Posters:
biscuit: the old "armful of slack whipper" is always a good wakeup for the head if nothing else. With a never-ending pump its sometimes best to just take a break and start again from scratch. I can totally relate to the engaging core when you hit holds - I've had several occasions where thats been key in the past week or so.
The Ex-Engineer: recharging the batteries.....
hms - sounds like a fantastically productive week given its Christmas. Certainly puts me to shame.
Robin Brooke: shame about the lurgy. How did the first week of the plan go?
James Moyle: I think your comment about alcohol and weight probably sums me up as well!
spenser: where did you boulder in the end?
Ian Bell - hope Tenerife was good? Any good ticks?
alexm198: did you get to Scotland? Are you away from Chamonix for good now?
TonyB: sounds like a solid Tuesday session. And psyche-inducing reading is a good thing, definitely had some of that this week.
AJM
stevemarkperry: I hope the lurgy has cleared up by now?
hokkyokusei: get well soon!
Just Tintin: got those goals sorted yet? Hows Mallorca been?
Humperdink: Go on, do tell? Did it go well? 80M vs 90M - theyre still so damned far I find it hard to comprehend!
Ally Smith - sad to see you go, hope you'll be tempted back some day.
Joyce: congratulations!
mattrm: reading the Anderson bros book over Christmas they made the point that weight lost today doesn't benefit you tomorrow (you can always put it back on, or vica versa) whereas training today does benefit tomorrow (because once gained its easier maintained).
Nick Russell: lurgy - not you too! Better yet?
flopsicle: sounds like a lot of to-ing and fro-ing!
0.5 viking: glad your mum is ok

In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy,
It was a quiet week for me as I was with family.

Tue - Portland. I flashedShit Route (7a) which was actually really quite good and did Sacred Angel (7a) 2nd go. It was great to be out and the conditions were OK.

Wed - core

Sat - Climbing in Calshot. warm up then 6c onsight, 7a+ onsight and I attempted a 7b+. I was really pleased with the 7a+ as although I've been doing pretty well with 7a's, I seem to have a mental block onsighting anything harder. I knew I was never going to onsight the 7b+, but thought it would be good practice to go for it, get as high as possible and take the inevitable fall climbing rather than wimping out. I made a pretty good effort falling with slack out clipping the 6th bolt. I think this is a pretty good indicator that my mental side is much better. I plan to maintain the lead head by trying to get lead sessions in each month. Finished with continuous lead climbing 6a+, 6a+, 6a+, 6a+ break 6b, 6a, 6b, 6b break 6b, 6b, 6a+, 6a+ and shoulder stability. I'm not convinced with this as an Aerocap excercise as it seems too easy.

December goals
5 lead sessions - managed 6 (including the one on Sat)
5 outdoor sessions - managed 5 (3 in Spain, 1 bouldering in the Peak and Portland)
5 7a onsight/flashes - managed 5 (Spain, Portland and 3 indoors)

I'm pysched to get back into training after a fairly restful Christmas with family.

I haven't decided on the January goals, so I'll have to do a second post.

Tony

In reply to AJM:

Thanks for taking over the stats AJM. Yeah, better now thanks, still a bit of coughing but that will be sorted soon enough. Not a strong week, but not a complete write-off either.

M - Lurgy
T - Lurgy
W - Nothing. I was feeling well enough that I should have got off my arse.
T - Nothing.
F - Winter walk up Cadair Idris. A bit more winter than I'd expected actually, I was very happy to get to that shelter on the summit.
S - Fingerboard session. 8 sets of repeaters. Four on the 4f medium edge (bottom of BM1000); four on the 3f medium pocket (top of BM1000). Failed on last set of both. That's about where I expected to be.
S - Redpoint. The extension is open! Really pleased to flash a 7a on the comp wall (13m high, 30' overhang most of the way). I really had to try hard, and thought I was off at least twice. Tried the new bouldering up V3 at the end.

Weight: unknown. I was away last week and didn't get enough measurements for a meaningful average

STG - build some strength/fitness

14 climbing sessions by end of Jan (average 2 per week, indoor or out, routes or bouldering. Just keep doing some climbing!) 5/14

7 fingerboard sessions by end of Jan (average 1 per week) 2/7

Core set after every indoor climbing session 5/5, 100%

70km running by end of Jan (average 10km per week) 20.5/70

Weight below 66kg again by end of Jan. Looking set to get this one pretty quickly.

MTG

spring: keep the pressure on the E4s. Still have to get on Central Wall (E4 6a), Star Wars (E4 5c), Mother Africa (E4 6a), Pacemaker (E5 6a), ...

summer/autumn sport trip: Ceuse or Frankenjura? Route objectives TBC when I actually plan something.

Snowdonia marathon 29/10/2016.

BHAG

The Long Hope Route

In reply to AJM: Thanks again for taking over doing the stats.

Another poor week for training but a nice end to my holiday.

Mon-Sat - Nil
Sun - Bouldering @ Brookes. A fairly mediocre session, found a new problem to play on but spent too much time failing on a couple of hardish problems I'd done previously.

In reply to AJM:

Right, new year new approach (or, at least, a return to a more geeky quantitative data logging) for me. Also, with some actual goals, which I got out of the habit of stating last year. I feel like I was going through the motions of logging things rather than really engaging with it. So, some goals:

STG - Easter
- V6/7 in Albarracin, Bishop and at home. Try a local V8
- short trip 8a send (Mediterraneo (8a)?)
- get the regular weight logging back on track and manage the weight back down

MTG - 2016
- get on Infinite Gravity (8a+). Also try Fuel My Fire (8a+), The Cider Soak (8a), and some harder west coast 7s (Tennessee (7c), Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) etc)
- maybe some onsighting if I can get a trip together
- get trad mojo back, get more E4s done, try to break into E5
- another adventure trip, back to wendenstock perhaps
- build on dws - swanage and Devon classics, push the boat out at lulworth.
- buy a house, do the Dragon Tour, other non climbing goals.

BHAG
- its been in the back of my mind for a while, and its a monstrous step from where I am now, but Tom Et Je Ris (8b+). Its probably even further away than 8a was when I started thinking about 8a, but you gotta try, right?
- single pitch E6, big adventure E5s and all the adventures that would bring (alps etc)

A fairly quiet week.
Monday - I already reported (V for Vendetta (f6C+) ticked and some minor progress and refreshing on Lightning Strike (f7A+)).
Tues-Thurs was work
Friday - Wales was very wet, but I went and chopped and lugged about wood for an hour or so, which was good fun
Saturday - went to the Beacon. Played around on roof circuits.
Sunday - being careful as my finger seems a little sore. Right hand ring finger, feels bruised in the A2 region but no pain when crimping, and lets face it i didn't pull on any small holds on the roof tunnel. So doing some mixed weights, pull-ups, pushups etc.

In reply to AJM:

Hmm.. some of these sound familiar. We could collaborate on the first two. Maybe not the third.

In reply to TonyB:

Hi Tony, that's right, I didn't know you posted on ukc!
Sounds like a good plan for Arch Enemies - I'll no doubt have to spend quite a while on it so if you are equally keen that would be great. Will let you know when I'm keen later in the year, to start with I'll mostly just be bouldering.

In reply to Nick Russell:

Ali might have words about the third - I think she thinks thats her prerogative

But yes, teaming up on the first ones would be good. I've got unfinished business at Avon/Wintours on the trad front, and am very keen to find more partners for the sport stuff especially the Swanage ones which are more niche.

I would also like to get up to Cheddar and get on Paradise Lost (7b) and Bird of Paradise (7b+) if I'm going well by midsummer as well actually.

In reply to AJM:

Today ended up being a bit busier than expected hence me not doing the stats AJM! Having been discouraged from even driving up to Northumberland due to the risk of trashing stuff if it was still wet I drove down to Goldsborough Carr, walked up to the crag, saw water running down many of the problems and decided to drive back via Durham Climbing Centre.

Sunday: Durham climbing centre - Good session, did a really nice f6A/B traverse second go (fluffed the last move on the first attempt and peeled off).
Monday, Tuesday - Nothing
Wednesday - 2km swim in 53 min (breast stroke)
Thursday, Friday, Saturday - Nothing
Sunday - 2.5 mile walk, 45 minutes at the wall in which I managed to do a project from the f6A+-f6B+ circuit first go, felt far better than when I tried it before christmas. Made good progress on some horrible thing going across a roof, I'm addressing a desire to not break my ankle again by trying to climb steeper things where there isn't anything to hit!

Next week's plan:
Monday: 1km breast stroke and trip to the climbing unit
Tuesday: Trip to the climbing station
Wednesday: 2km breast stroke
Thursday: Climbing
Friday: Swim or climb, depending on likelihood of post work pubbage
Saturday/ Sunday: Bouldering/ trad somewhere in the peak district probably if the weather's good, venue will probably depend on partners/ lack thereof. If weather's poor I will probably go bouldering indoors

In reply to AJM:

Morning Campers,

Thanks for doing the stats, Andy, and thanks to our Team Viking for organising us of late (no easy job with us lot!~). Ta muchly for the congratulations, although if you could fire some sleep my way, that'd be even better!

Training Diary WC 28/12/15
Sleep? No, never heard of it.

Monday – Daddage.
Tuesday – Daddage.
Wednesday – Easy Run: 5.2km in 23:00 at 4:25m/km pace with 96m of ascent. Cold and wet.
Thursday – Daddage.
Friday – DanDan’s Core Plan Wk2.1. Played around with foot on ‘circuits’ on fingerboard – needs refining as not getting pumped as on a proper circuit. Easy Run: 5.2km in 25:13 at 4:49m/km pace. GAP 4:36m/km as 96m of ascent - chuffing!
Saturday – Core and press ups to warm up for a fingerboarding. Did some benchmarking on my BM2000:
Small crimp - 4 finger chisel: 2 pull ups + 15kg (then 1 and an ‘udge’) with 17.5kg – shoulders gave out, not fingers)
35’ sloper: 2 pull ups (just) + 7.5kg
Deep 2 finger pocket – front 2: 2 pull ups + 0kg
Deep mono – middle finger: 2 pull ups + 7.5kg
Deep 2 finger pocket – back 2: ha ha!
Think this says a lot about my relative finger strengths and grip preferences – can customise future fingerboard sessions to hammer them thar weaknesses now… Also, it sounds silly but mental strength came into it too, I had to try much harder to psyche myself to for the pulls on my less preferred grips (35'sloper, front 2 and back 2) - practice will boost mental confidence as well as strength.
Had another quick go at some ‘foot on circuits’. Did 2 mins (3-5s on each hold around the board) then ‘rested’ for 30s on the 20’ slopers before another couple of minutes. Then some bambino visitors gave me a peculiar look as they came through the front door (baby asleep in Moses basket in the hall next to the chair I had my feet on at this point – I call it multi-tasking). Felt like it’d be useful to do this for 10 mins, then a short rest then another 2 sets seeing as I’m not going near a circuit board for a while and want to build forearm endurance for ‘The Loop’.
Sunday – Dan’s Core Workout – Wk2.2.
Short Term Goals
Be awesome bambino and good lady wife support crew. Other than that, slip in short bursts of climbing/running/finishing off the Supershed wall while we’re all asleep – on it!
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+ - on it when wall sorted.
Slopers, slopers, slopers, heel hooks, heel to hand matches, getting feet up and onto hand holds following a cut loose on overhangs (and other weaknesses) –lovin’ the slopers.
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’ (nope – more interested in ‘The Poop’ than ‘The Loop’ just now).
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability - nope.
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff - nope. At least one BM session a week – sort of. Core stuff: 3 core sessions – yup.
Cuddle my new bambino lots when it lands – mucho mucho!
Build a wall in my Supershed when not cuddling the aforementioned bambino – on it.
Weight = 70.3kg

Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX

In reply to Joyce:

What's your process for the benchmarking to find out your limits without just getting overly tired through trial & error?

In reply to Si dH:

Sounds great. I'd be keen to boulder over winter too. My fitness has improved considerably after a year of structured training but my top boulder level hasn't changed. I suspect that it's because I simply don't spend enough time doing it, and a few months of bouldering most weekends would do me a lot of good.

In reply to AJM:

Happy New Year

Give me a shout if you're looking for Portland West Coast partners, I'm keen. Might be worth trying to get Quiddity interested in the Swanage stuff...?

In reply to Si dH:

Morning Camper,

Well, it wasn't very scientific really. I just got warmed up, dapped on an old harness and dangled some weights off it. I then picked a few holds to use - some grips I'm good at, some not - and increased the weight by 2.5kg each go until I failed (because I already knew my stronger grips, I knew which ones that I could start with higher weight on so I didn't have too many goes overall - maybe 16 attempts across all 5 grips). Then it was time for a proper rest, a generous slurp of coffee and on to the next one. I only tried 5 grip positions as I didn't want to be worn out. I'm sure that more knowledgeable peeps will suck air through teeth at it but it worked and, if I do the same thing again in, say 3 months, I should be able to see if I'm any better.

Hope this doesn't muddy the water too much.

Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX

In reply to TonyB:

Cool, ok. I am out most weeks but whether Saturday or Sunday (and where) tends to be decided last minute depending on conditions. I'm often out with others from Derby but the more the merrier
Can let you know what I'm planning this weekend if you like?

In reply to Joyce:

Thanks Joyce, might try that myself.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks for stepping up Andy. I’m delighted to report Mallorca was awesome and perhaps the ‘rest’ weeks beforehand with lurgy put me into coming at it fresh instead of tired? Ticked 7a first tie-in on my last day climbing, so that’s a first, an MTG ticked, and hopefully a big step on for me (I didn’t do any sport in 2015 really).

M – More easy mileage stuff at Les Perxes up to 6a
T – La Creveta – lovely crag in great situation. Got freaked out on my warm up 5+ when I got to a position above the 2nd clip where I noticed the next two hangers had been chopped…bailed and sulked. Got mojo back on brilliant sustained Top50 6a+ but then emotionally and physically knackered and went home to drink tea.
W – light day so did a couple of routes at Es Fumat including Top50 6b which was a breeze then swam in a lovely quiet little cove
T – Communa di Caimari – new area and definitely worth buying the new Rockfax guide for. Lovely sticky rock and crimpy steep routes interspersed with some tufa. Pushed my comfort level on some tufa/blobby pinchy type things and peaked at 6c onsight.
F- light day at El Calo de Betlem doing a couple of routes including a brilliant 6b+. Swam in sea in another nice quiet cove until the fat Germans arrived.
S – back to Communa di Caimari to get on a 7a. Warmed up on 6a, 6b, 6b+ then did it. Massive relief and MTG ticked for 2015 (a few days late).
S – rest day and travel back

In reply to AJM:

Cheers for statting AJM,
Sorry for the lack of post last week, but there is nothing exciting going on 'round here at the moment!
Elbows are still bad although I would say ever so slightly improved in the last few weeks, just got to keep on keepin' on at the moment and hope more improvement comes my way.
I did one solitary core session over the Christmas period and whole lot of nothing else, I've not put on any weight but I have gained 0.5% bodyfat which means I'm definitely losing muscle, rubbish!

If I continue to see improvements in both elbows then I might try a wall session in a few weeks, nothing over about f5 and everything under vertical so elbow usage is minimal, I just want to be able to get back to any kind of climbing, to remind my body how to move on the rock. (climbing isn't the main cause of the tennis elbow so getting back to it isn't necessarily a bad idea but obviously ill play it by ear)

That's it really, more rest and rehab and crossing fingers!

In reply to AJM:

Thanks for stepping in AJM.


I wish. Continued to be under the weather, going to try and get a doc appointment. When i first came down with this they said they wouldn't be able to fit me in until Jan 4th and I thought "I'll be better by then" - but I'm not!

I did do one run, the third Peco XC race at Middleton Park on Sunday 3rd, but it was the worst Peco performance I've ever put in and ended up walking bits of it.

On the plus side, I haven't put on too much weight over xmas.

Thought a bit about my goals for the year and I'd like to lose weight, lose body fat, do more fell running and get new PBs at 5k, 10k & half marathon. The 10k & half should be relatively easy as I've been a bit of an under achiever there, but the 5k will need some effort as my 2015 PB was ~30 seconds slower than 2014. I ran about 860km last year, and I think I ought to be able to up that to 1000km.

Weight wise, in the short term I'm aiming to get down to 80kg (currently 83), in the longer term I'd like to get my body fat down to 15% (currently ~20). It should be fairly easy as I drank a lot of beer last year (I stupidly agreed to a challenge to drink 1001 different beers in 2015) so I'm hoping to cut down significantly!


I second that.

In reply to AJM:

While we're in New Year mode, can I consult the collective minds/experience of Fit Club for some suitable goals for 2016? (2015 MTGs are reviewed below).

I’ve been climbing for 3 years now and essentially where I am on a good day is E2/7a/V4-5 outdoors. Similar level indoors. I'm not light (66kg) and I'm sure my body fat is around the average 25% for a female level.

Earlier this year Adrian Berry said I could climb 8a if I trained properly. It's not that I'm afraid to train, but after doing pretty intense training (and dieting!) for lightweight rowing in my early 20s, I’m pretty much into climbing for climbing and where I can be doing it outside, rather than doing too much ‘training’. I am highly capable of dieting and know how to do it, but would rather not as it takes me back to the rowing days and makes me a bit psycho. I enjoy (and therefore do) sport least of the disciplines, and I need to consider that my general life/family commitments will significantly increase in the next 2ish years. That being said, I do want to be better though perhaps I am reaching the level now where I can't just make improvements by climbing alone.

I have a one-off Randall session later this month as part of the Sublime kickstarter thing, so will doubtless get some training/performance analysis options then, but would really be keen to have ideas on what goals might be possible/enjoyable.

Thanks!

Tintin


Review of 2015 MTGs:

• Consolidate E1/6c/V3 outside - TICK
E1 mileage on various rock types.
Didn’t do enough sport, so only one 6c but felt very comfortable!
Feel fine on V3 now though some still need a bit of work!

• E2/7a/V4 in good style outside - TICK
Several E2s, one 7a in good style and felt okay. Several V4s - V6 bouldering so that was a good jump.

• Minimum 100 sessions on rock this year (72 in 2014) - FAIL
57. Major fail on this one, and again possibly not a plausible goal.

• Maintain 5/6 training sessions a week throughout 2015 - CLOSE
In hindsight this was too big a leap. Averaged 4/5 a week throughout the year in the end as had a few bad weeks due to house-moving, work, lurgy etc.

• Indoors: 3x 7a onsight - TICK
Done, but hoping they weren’t soft! One was a 5.11d in US, and others in walls I don’t usually climb at. All definitely suited my style.

• Do some comps well - TICK
Won senior women in Wirksworth WBL and Climbing Unit SBL.
Qualified for the finals in Big Rock WBL and SLL but couldn’t go on the day.

In reply to hokkyokusei:

Well if you're going to put on weight it may as well be for a good reason! Did you manage to complete the challenge?

In reply to James Moyle:


Well, yeah, with several days to spare. In fact by midnight on new year's eve I was up to 1035 unique beers. I'm not sure if it's something to be proud of, or not. I should add that, over the course of the year I actually lost weight!

In reply to Just Tintin:
I think that's going to be difficult for us to judge.

Its going to come down in some extent to things like how structured you can make your climbing (and you probably can do it all without having to sacrifice climbing time to more obvious "training" - campusing, fingerboarding and so on) before it starts to feel like it isn't just fun climbing any more.

The other obvious thing it is likely to depend on is how motivating you can make "going climbing" in a way which happens to address your weaknesses - as a generalisation you probably don't enjoy the climbing that addresses your weaknesses otherwise they wouldn't be your weaknesses but if you can find a way of making that sort of training fun it will benefit more than if you spend the same time climbing in a way which addresses your strengths.

In reply to AJM:

I've got rid of the cold thanks. It only stuck around for 2 days then I just felt a bit rough for a few days after that.

Had a good week this week and even though I struggle getting my head around variety (I prefer to focus on one thing as it's easier for my mind!) I tend to enjoy weeks where I'm mixing it up more than just doing one thing to the detriment of everything else. I don't think I'll ever master anything in that respect but as long as I'm happy then it's all good.

I read a book on this which really opened my eyes, it's called Refuse To Choose (link below). My ideal week at the moment is a mix of bike, bouldering, martial arts and walking. Having spoken to coaches and physios who I trust they all say that mixing it up is better for all-round health and fitness anyway and that too much specificity can result in being a bit injury prone. You just lose a bit of focus and might not excel in any one area, the downside.

The book: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Refuse-Choose-Revolutionary-Program-Everything/dp/1...

Current objectives // limiter(s)
Be ready for Scottish winter trip (March) // no rope time in last 12 months.
Enjoy first race of season on bike // prep.
Get second stripe on white belt in BJJ // consistency.

This week's targets
Get some bike time in ready for race.
Boulder at least once.
Enjoy NY!

M: 1hr dog walk
T: 1hr dog walk, 1.5hrs hill reps on MTB
W: 1hr dog walk, 1hr indoor bouldering -- wall was busy so focused on woody and Moon board, good focused session.
T: Skipped bike ride, oops got distracted.
F: Rest (NYD)
S: 2:20hr dog walk, 45mins turbo including 3x6min sweetspot intervals with 4mins rest.
S: 1hr sunrise mountain bike ride. This was ace, a real treat to be out before the crowds. Got home and had phone call from misses saying the dog had ran off, spent next hour searching for the little sod! Thankfully he found his way home safe and sound. Worried us both!

Current weight: about 143 lbs (not worried about this as I'm ok up to 150 ish.)

In reply to Just Tintin:
For what it's worth without knowing you...
If you can keep up that volume from 2015 (4 sessions indoors or training and averaging a session outside every week?) then it's definitely enough to see further progress. Just make sure you aren't wasting the training time by doing things you find easy (eg doing a whole easy circuit just because it's there - waste of time) - try to find something you enjoy but that you find hard and is physically challenging for you.
If you do the above you'll probably to continue to gradually improve, in which case you could set yourself some slightly more ambitious goals in each discipline. If you want to improve faster, you'll probably need to focus on one discipline over the others for a while, and then modify your goals accordingly.
If you want to get better at trad, I wouldn't underestimate the benefits of a full-time season of sport climbing. If you are finding 7a ok and have a partner then once the good crags in Cheedale dry up this year, it might be worth a shot redpointing a 7a+/b to see if you enjoy it. It's very different from just onsighting, or climbing in peak quarries. If you don't like it after a few days out you haven't lost much. Alternatively if you like it, then a whole new avenue of improvement opens up that is fun and outside rather than being'training'.
Hope this helps.

In reply to Si dH:

Thanks Si - time and thought much appreciated...so no more easy red and green sessions at the Unit then! :0) I suspect we must have bumped into each other there at some point, so will make a point of trying harder to say hello. I shall put Cheedale sport on the list, as now we're getting past the obvious Peak venues, it would be good to push out.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy. It's ironic that I'm having problems thinking about this for myself, as I do it all the time for the kids I coach. You're completely right - now I have an okay volume of sessions, structure is definitely the next thing to add to volume this year. And it is a timely kick on working weaknesses, as I had great intentions last week but clearly just spent it mostly avoiding pinching tufas and slabs in favour of steep crimping...hopefully I can use the rest of the grit season to concentrate on smearing and slopers too.

In reply to AJM:

Happy new year all. A quick one only and I'll do a proper post when I'm back next week. Tenerife is good and elbows so far playing ball. Been on sighting around the 6b-6c mark which I'm happy with after little climbing for 6 weeks or so before. Come close in some 6c+ and 7a attempts as well but so far no success. 3 climbing days left so elbows permitting may try and spend a couple on 1 hard route.

Tenerife itself is great although if anything too hot sometimes! Now to the beach......

In reply to Just Tintin:

No problem, just hope its helpful.

Based on the grades you noted, if V5, 7a and E2 all feel like equivalent achievements for you (and assuming it's V5 in a style which is vaguely transferrable to the sort of moves you do when sports climbing) then in a Randall worldview you could probably take that strength further than 7a with appropriate fitness training. And for a lot of people fitness is likely to hold the key to steeper and harder trad (ignoring for a moment all those head based factors that are likely to dominate).

At this point I know that Si will try to tell me this doesn't apply on peak lime, and to some extent he is right (the nearer to bouldering the route is, the less fitness training will benefit), but on the other hand Randall's Trainingbeta podcast suggested he would prescribe some aerobic training to someone intending to climb a 16 move font 8A, or something like that. And I guess if you want to improve at routes you can either keep getting stronger to raise the level you can climb whilst slightly tired, or you can work to raise the level at which you can climb slightly tired to be as near to the level you can climb fresh as you can, since for most routes its the ability to climb slightly tired that's the key to success.

In reply to AJM:

Delayed post about goals for the future

For a long time my primary goal in climbing has been to climb 8a. I’ve trained hard and feel this is the year for it. I’ve followed a personalized training program made by Ollie Tor for a year and have made significant gains. I’ve had testing on Tom Randall’s lattice board and I know that many of my energy systems are suitable for what is required. So all my goals for this year are going to be focused on getting this 8a.

If I achieve this goal, then I’d like to follow different future goals. I like training and I like improving, but I’m not sure if I want to devote my future to climbing 8a+ or 8b. It would be a huge amount of work for me, and I think it would be more fun to pick other challenges. I’d love to climb El Capitan. I’d like to go to Madagascar and do Out of Africa. I’d like to climb all of the Classic Rock climbs with my wife. I’d like to complete some of the easy off piste circuits in Font. Of course I’d like to continue redpointing in the Peak, but I don’t want to get fixated on grades.

Therefore, I’ve decided that this year will be focused on redpointing 8a, grade chasing and getting frustrated. The rest of my climbing will be about having fun, improving and seeing where it takes me. My wife has been very supportive about my training, but I’m aware that I’m mildly obsessive and a sometimes a pain in the arse. I think this long-term approach will make me more fun to be around and be beneficial for the whole family.

LTG – to be set later

MTG – 8a redpoint to suit strengths. Likely to be power endurance or stamina.

STG

Making 7b's feel 7a.
I’ve been climbing 7a pretty easily recently. I flashed/onsighted 5 last month. I’ve done 3 in a day. I’ve been quite happy with this, but haven’t really tried to get this kind of mileage on 7b’s. This month I have 3 days in El Chorro, next month I have 3 days in Portland. I aim to average 1 route 7b or above per day on these trips.

Improving the onsight grade.
I first flashed 7a in Kalymnos in 2009. Ok so the route probably wasn’t 7a. But since then my redpoint grade has gone from 7a to 7c. I’m stronger and fitter, but except for a few indoor routes, my best onsight is still 7a. Looking at my recent records, I probably have about a 50% success-rate on 7a onsight/flashes, so why can’t I onsight 7a+ or 7b? This is almost certainly because I only seldom try it. One new year resolution will be get on harder routes with the intention to onsight.

Trying hard
My last years training has made me fit and I can spend a reasonable time operating at sub-maximal effort. However, I really struggle for the moves where I have to give it 100%. I’ve spent so little time focused on hard bouldering. I need to rectify if I’m going to go near cruxy routes. I don't really want to set a number of boulders, but certainly I need to do more bouldering so I get the trying 100% mentality.

Training goals
Complete above 90% of my scheduled training plan
Complete 6 sets of 7a into 7a in one session on the circuit board.

In reply to Just Tintin:

It sounds like you've already been given some good advice, and I don't really feel able to offer more. Redpointing in Chee Dale is always nice; it's a beautiful crag and my favourite in the Peak. I understand about being into climbing for climbing. It's something that I hope to embrace more and it is behind the rationale of my long term goals.

The only thing that I would add, is that if you do a lot of outdoor climbing it might be possible to use relatively few indoor sessions to target specific aspects or energy systems. I'm not sure how you'd do this, but I'm sure a good coach would know, and I expect your session with Tom Randall would be very revealing. I do think that being fit helps the enjoyment of climbing, because at the very least you can do more climbs/attempts in a day!

In reply to AJM:

Actually I agree with everything in that paragraph!
To climb harder sport you obviously need strength and endurance. It's almost certainly true that one can get up harder grades more quickly by training everything and focusing on endurance in particular, if youpick the right route. However I've always thought having strength in hand is good for the longer term, as opposed to just the next grade, as strength gains take longer to realise but then don't disappear as quickly. Also, for people climbing in the Peak, being over-strong rather than over-fit means you can enjoy the winter as much as the summer At the end of the day for long term improvement, it's about finding a way to get better that you enjoy and will keep doing.

In reply to Si dH:


I think the caveat to that is that the focus on endurance in particular is most relevant if you're already quite strong for the route grades you climb.

The bit I thought you would disagree with is V5 being over strong for 7a, because I know we have discussed what sport grade that sort of bouldering grade could get you to in years gone by

In reply to AJM:

Well, yes, I do disagree with that

In reply to AJM:

Still recovering from hand operation, but have started some slightly more strenuous strength work. Was glad to get out into the mountains over the New Year period, even if it was just for a run.

Latest X-ray so you can see what I have to deal with https://www.dropbox.com/s/dvmc2ef2wny3k7j/10264317_10153641881450342_797405...

Mon - Rehab. Isometric one-handed axe hangs. Setup a pulley system to take about 25kg (about 37%) off bodyweight. 4 repetitions, 30s each hand.
Tue - Rest
Wed - Rest
Thu - Trail Run in the Cairngorms. 14km/1100m. (https://www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/osmaps/#57.12314540186625,-3.7277472491139...
Fri - Rest
Sat - Rest
Sun - Rest

STG

Get back into regular training. Do 3 rehab/strength sessions, and get outside during the week!

In reply to AJM:

Cheers for doing the stats Andy, and seeing as you asked so nicely:

M: 10 Mile race, pretty warm although a nippy wind for this. Course is very up and down so not a quick one at all. Felt ok in the warm-up (hadn't indulged the previous day) and spotted a couple of guys who I knew would be up front. Race got underway and the two aforementioned folks went off rather quick, made a sharp choice to let them get on with it which proved to be smart. Went through mile 1 with another runner in 5:11 (too quick!) but he soon dropped off which left me with a lonely 9 miles ahead. Up front the eventual winner went clear after about 2.5 miles and from then on it was about trying to stay strong, work hard but keep relaxed and see if anyone came back to me (they didn't!). Finished 3rd in 53:00. Splits: 5:11, 5:14, 5:17 (uphill), 5:39 (biiiig hill), 5:22, 5:29 (uphill), 4:59 (downhill), 5:03 (still downhill ish), 5:15, 5:35 (tough finish). As some measure of the course difficulty the winner has run sub 30min for 10k and on a flat course would have been around 1:30-1:45 quicker so if you take similar off my time (trying to make myself feel better) thats not bad!
Tu: am - 9M easy in 64:05, pm - 5M steady in 32:33 felt ok
W: am - 10/11M steady in 71:10
Th: am - Session on road - didn't feel fully recovered from race so didn't go 100% flat out and only did 2 sets. 2x (4min, 3min, 2min, 1min) half rep jog recoveries and 2min between sets. Felt sluggish but ok 10M total, pm - 4/5M steady in 33:05
F: am - 5M easy in 40:23, taking it easy ahead of Saturdays session!
Sa: am - The "Big" road session! Coach had been talking about this so we were worried. Plan was to do 15M tempo at increasing pace. Did it with two other lads from the club which worked well. First 8M were steady in 6:02 average into the wind, then we turned and picked it up a bit so that the next 4M were around 5:45 at 12M one of the others really picked it up and so covering him we then did the last 3M in around 5:10min miling. Total 15M in 1:27:02 17/18M with warm-up etc
Su: Tired! A very easy 12/13M in 1:46:07 slowed down by the very muddy conditions!

Total: ~90M so a great week, good race on Monday and good session on Saturday which although both were hard didn't take as much out of me as I thought they might. Easy week now to taper into the county XC champs.

In reply to AJM:

Hi AJM, thanks for doing the stats.

Didn't manage to get up to Scotland which was a shame but entirely self-induced. Had a bit of a big one on NYE and was in no fit state to drive on Friday...missed out on some good mixed conditions on the ben so lesson learnt.

Yeah I'm away from Chamonix for a while now, moved to London for career reasons but currently it's not working out quite as well as I'd have liked. Early days yet though. Plenty of weekend trips out to Cham planned for the spring.

So-so week this week, but still getting back into the rhythm (this current week has been much better).

M: Rest [Pull-ups & pushups]
T: Core routine warmup followed by general strength session.
W: 8.8km Z1/2, still not being disciplined enough about HR.
T: Had plans for NYE so got in after work and managed a few sets of Frenchies as a consolation prize.
F: Hungover [Pull-ups & pushups]
S: Rest [Pull-ups & pushups]
S: Rest [Pull-ups & pushups]

Last week's goals: Get up to Scotland on the weekend, get two routes done. [Nope] Be more disciplined about your HR zones during cardio sessions. [Only had the one session this week but in the ones I've done since then I'm feeling much better about this]


STG (this week): Five training sessions. HR Zone discipline. Actually go climbing again! (Indoor session).

In reply to AJM:

The weight is quite bad really, so I'd really like to start getting that down. I'm not really motivated to train at the moment, not that I've ever really trained per se. Just need to keep some sessions going so I don't got totally in reverse.

Thanks for doing the stats.

STG - Keep doing some climbing

Weight - 12st 12lbs

M - DIY - in shed
T - 100 dish tucks
W - 100 dish tucks
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Rest

Lost all psyche. Work is rather busy at the moment and I'm ticking over finishing off the house at the moment. Hopefully things'll improve when the sun comes back. I miss it. Trying to at least maintain the weight and maybe get a bit off.