In reply to UKC Articles:
These videos have been of varying quality. Some have been very good but this one again is a bit disappointing. I'd have expected better from PyB, although I appreciate these come free and unencumbered by adverts.
On more than one occasion what is being described is out of shot - most obviously when the screwgate krab is (not) shown resisting opening against a sharp angle of rock. The advantage of the HMS style krab is described in words, but it would have been better, especially for novices, to have cut away at that point to a shot of the krab loaded with a couple of clove hitches to illustrate the point. The reason why trad quickdraws can be less robust was explained adequately for a reasonably experienced listener, but the key point that trad climbers fall off less was not clearly made. And there was no explanation why the trad draw is longer, though that was perhaps out of scope of this video.
This is a potentially really useful series of videos, sometimes let down by less than careful production standards I fear.
Interested to see what comes next in the series.
Martin
In a new series on UKClimbing, we have teamed up with Plas-y-Brenin, the National Mountain Sports Centre, to cover a wide range of basic climbing techniques.. We will be explaining everything from putting on harnesses and tying figure of eights, to building belays and leading.
