UKC

https://fasticeclimb.com/


/Discuss

In reply to neilwiltshire:

I'm all for people trying to innovate and I know how hard it is to actually get a product to market with all the testing that goes along with that but...

It seems a bit of a faff although the vid of the guy placing the screw doesn't really show the loading procedure. I haven't watched the other vids of how it all works.

He also seems to be on a very easy section of ice virtually hands free. I realise the camera man needed to stand somewhere close to the ground but he's not exactly pumped out of him mind on a steep section of WI 5.

And... Battery life at -10?? and the noise of a impact driver isn't exactly pleasant.

I sound very negative.

In reply to George Fisher:

You do sound a bit negative but I have to say I agree with everything you've said! Seems like an inordinate amount of faff to me. Plus all the extra weight of carrying the drill, the holster, and an adapter for every screw.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

Looks like expensive bollocks to me.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

should be interesting changing the battery half way up a pitch.......?

In reply to Mountain Llama:


lithium ion battery don't take kindly to spindrift

Most of all you will not know it you go through a pocket, flaw, or other weakness in the ice.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

Looks like fun in a laughing from my desk sort of way

In reply to George Fisher:
I think this will come into its own when they release the drill adaptor. you'll then be in a position to easily knock a bolt in on those hard to protect gullies when the ice is too cruddy. Zero Gully here I come!

In reply to neilwiltshire:

It's got a holster......cool

In reply to krikoman:


This. And heavy too.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

wouldn't have thought an impact driver would place the screw very securely- a wrench rather than hammer action would surely make more sense. aside from that, its a shit idea

In reply to neilwiltshire:

I assumed it was a joke!

If the system is so good why do they not show anyone leading a hard ice route with this device?

IMO fitting the screw to the drill looks like it would be pretty tricky with gloves on.

I can't see it taking off myself!

In reply to neilwiltshire:

I would be interested in the battery life . It's a 10v makita drill with there badge on it. It's ok for inch and a half 8 screws but how many ice screws ?
As for taking an impact drill out on the hills no thanks . I have had enough listening to them at work all day.

In reply to tom84:


They don't mention anything about the pull-out strength of screws placed this way at all - it could be somewhat less than when the screws are hand-placed.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

About as useful as the combined trousers/harness thing that was reviewed on UKC last year.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

They are sort of missing a key point and that is the feel you get from placing a screw by hand. You get a feel for the ice its in and the confidence this give to the climber.
I wouldn't expect to get anywhere close to the same feel using a power drill.

Just keep your screws sharp and they are easy to place.

In reply to thebigeasy:



>precisely what i was trying to say

Most of all you will not know if you go through a pocket, flaw, or other weakness in the ice.

In reply to SenzuBean:


An impact driver doesn't use a hammer action to drive in a screw. Rather a hammer action to create the turning force. The screw is still screwed in in the same way so 'should' be a strong as a hand placed screw.

It's still a bad idea.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

Hi Neil - fantastic find!

Before today I didn't think the American's had such a great sense of humour - my mistake, cos these boys in Colorado have really gone to town on this practical joke... made me laugh out-loud even before I started watching the video's!
I really like the idea of attaching special adapters to my screws with a tiny allen screw and key - inspired.

But the thought of power drilled chunks of ice being blown out and cascading down the crag stopped me laughing!

I hope you've settled OK in Leeds.
Cheers,
Paul

In reply to pauls911:

Leeds is great. Come and visit and we'll go climbing some time. Use my place as a way point on the way to Scotland for some winter climbing!

Let me know if you're keen.

Neil.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

A worthy successor to this highly instructional piece:

youtube.com/watch?v=Qd8bHA53wko&


CB

In reply to cb294:
A negligent discharge into the thigh should be interesting... I think this would fit well with Cliffhanger or Vertical Limit.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

its a spoof isnt it? please tell me its a spoof. "Slide the screw Adapter over the top of the screw, engaging the lip. Check to see that it is aligned with the hole in the ice screw.
Tighten set screw on Adapter with hex wrench (provided)." I look forward to doing that one handed.

In reply to pebbles:


From the website, I think the idea for that is to put adapters on the tops of all your screws, before you head out to the hills.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

I thought spoof at first too but if it is they've gone pretty far with it. You can add stuff to the cart and go to a secure payments option page. I didn't go any further...

In reply to DaveHK:

I think they're quite serious.

See e.g. http://www.google.com/patents/WO2015023594A2?cl=en

In reply to Name Changed 34:

For a proposed solution to the problem of getting protection when there are pockets in the ice, see https://www.google.co.in/patents/US20110225793

In reply to Rob Parsons:



For a previous employer we used to get bonuses for any patents we submitted that made it past initial screening. Didn't have to be related to the employers actual business. Still, that doesn't explain the website...

In reply to neilwiltshire:

Blimey, a lot of time, effort and money down the pan there!

as if you need another reason as to why it is shite, i dont see how the extra length of screw+drill would make it easy to get one in on steep ground, if you could even get a screw on the drill.

I am waiting for a laser-melting insertion and instant-refreezing bolt gun thing.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

luckily its only $350...

In reply to Nutkey:
It would be great in either of those films, especially if they make a revolver version - preload 6 screws, no loading mid pitch, spin the cartridge round, load the next screw into the chamber and off you go. That would be perfect for Hollywood.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

"We have tested the Tool in varying winter conditions for three years with no problems. If you are going to spend the night outside, put the Tool and Batteries in your sleeping bag."

nice

In reply to Rob Parsons:

That's just what you need the ice friend

Hilti have a new system, looks easy to use just and you can place overhead [ first page]



https://www.hilti.co.uk/medias/sys_master/h98/h43/9108045168670/Winter_2014...