UKC

After months of pain I've been told I have three very inflamed tendons in my left wrist, but they don't know why.

I haven't climbed since, for fearing of making it worse (as I definitely have been), but with no clear treatment plan and useless information from my doctors I want to get back into it. Anybody have experience of this? Was thinking I could just climb one handed on slabs until I know more. I'm being referred to a physio in the meantime.

Also looking at finding a book about climbing injuries if anyone has a recommendation?

Wouldn't usually post but things are getting pretty desperate and I'm not sure I can stand not climbing any longer. All I'm doing is taking meloxicam and trying to ice it, with codeine when needed.

In reply to Sto_Helit:

This is turning into the go-to text, and quite rightly. http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2015/02/make-or-break-dont-let-climbing.h...

I got it as a xmas pressie and it's pretty phenomenal. It may serve you well *especially* as you're exploring the doctors/physio.

In reply to Sto_Helit:

http://davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html
?

In reply to Sto_Helit:

I'd recommend giving Dave Macleod's book Make or Break a read. Sadly I can't find a link for it, but you might have more luck than me on the search engines.

In reply to Sto_Helit:

Sorry to hear you're injured. Sounds like you're waiting for an NHS physio then? You might want to consider going private: get seen straight away and get to choose your physio. Try to find one who is recommended, particularly from other climbers. If you get the NHS appointment go to that too as a second opinion is often worth getting.

In Sheffield I can recommend Steve Hodgson: http://www.hallamshirephysiotherapy.com/staff-profiles/

I know other climbers who have had success with him too and he is generally keen to get climbers back climbing asap.

The most important thing in my experience is getting the right diagnosis. A lot of stuff can be treated at home with massage, weight training etc. but without getting a correct diagnosis you can't move forward.


What would your purpose be for this? Staying fit, seeing friends or what. If you want to stay in shape there are much better ways to go about it but you don't need to climb to do it: weights, bar work, rings etc - whatever doesn't exacerbate your injury.

You might want to check out the recent Dave Macleod interview on Training Beta. Some of it is about injuries, about taking responsibilities for injuries, his own personal experiences with injury and training around injury.

https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/dave-macleod/?portfolioID=3838

Thank you so much for all the replies, ordered the book today.

Particular thanks for the physio recommendation, I am being referred through the NHS but will definitely be looking into the Hallamshire.

I'll have to look into other ways of staying fit for now then, and can stay social by offering belays!!

In reply to Sto_Helit:

Hate to say it but if you take your climbing to any degree of seriousness I would pursue a private physio who is well versed with climbing injuries.

The NHS do an amazing job for the pittance they get, you may get lucky and get a great NHS physio who knows exactly what the issue and how to fix it is but don't expect anything more than them making sure you can use your hands in 'normal' day to day activities (I.e. Not sporting performance).

Last thing is to say, chronic inflammation is a bit of a time bomb, time wasted not getting the right treatment not only delays but prolongs the healing process.

Good luck!!