UKC

VIDEO: Climbing the Full Replica of Action Directe 9a

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 UKC News 08 Jan 2016
Luzan Matyas - Action Directe, 4 kbRomanian climber Luzan Matyas has had his sights set on Action Directe 9a in Frankenjura, Germany - the world's first 9a opened by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 - for many years now, training specifically for this one route using tailored fingerboard and campus sessions, not to mention the almost-to-scale replica of Action Directe which he has fashioned at his local wall.


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1
 bouldery bits 08 Jan 2016
In reply to UKC News:

What a legend!
Removed User 08 Jan 2016
In reply to UKC News:

He know that doesn't count right?
 nbonnett 08 Jan 2016
In reply to UKC News:

no need for him to do the route now
 Wft 08 Jan 2016
In reply to UKC News:

is this the same chap who bust his finger on the first day of attempting the real thing?
 allarms 08 Jan 2016
In reply to UKC News:

If someone trained on this would they still get a flash for the real thing?
J1234 08 Jan 2016
In reply to UKC News:

I have wondered about this in the past, if a climbing wall could replicate real climbs, with holds postioned in precisely the right places and of the correct size. Maybe in 20 years we will look back and recognise this as a first of a new generation of indoor climbs.
 simes303 08 Jan 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Ha, that's ace.
 Gareth 08 Jan 2016
In reply to UKC News:

tune
1
 Chubbard 08 Jan 2016
In reply to UKC News:

His blog is great. I love his description of the route: "very painful, dangerously fingery, cruel and brutally difficult, you need so much anger ...".
 balnakiel 08 Jan 2016
In reply to simes303:

Or maybe a tiny bit sad? No wait its brilliant and nuts! I just can't decide.
 partz 08 Jan 2016
In reply to UKC News:

If anyone is interested in comparison:
Dai Koyamada: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3EJctYJzpk&t=1m
1:00 in

vimeo.com/151014192#t=1m26s
1:26 in

...Not bad tbf!
In reply to UKC News:

Nice! It's not quite perfect given he doesn't have the height hence the quick downclimb after the first move but otherwise excellent!
 stp 08 Jan 2016
In reply to Reggie Perrin:

I think the new generation of indoor climbs is already with us. Both the holds and moves created by routesetters will be inspired and often copied from existing rock routes. The routes aren't exactly the same but of course they can be made even better: miss out the tweaky holds and easier moves.
 stp 08 Jan 2016
In reply to allarms:

> If someone trained on this would they still get a flash for the real thing?

It's an interesting question and knowing the route this well - having made repeated ascents of the replica - must make a first try ascent very possible. I suppose if that happens it just is what it is. It's not a flash in the usual sense to be sure.
 Aly 08 Jan 2016
In reply to partz:

> If anyone is interested in comparison:

> Dai Koyamada: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3EJctYJzpk&t=1m


Looks like the rope comes a bit tight and kills his swing on the first move there!
2
 Cellinski 08 Jan 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Cool and inspiring. But after watching the video and some videos of ascents of the actual route, I reckon that the replica must be somewhat easier than the real thing. Luzan is so fluent on the replica, while on the real thing most seem to struggle from the first moves on... and all these guys are not exactly beginners.
Bernard Shakey 08 Jan 2016
In reply to UKC News:

I remember a guy who used to post on here regularly Johnny 2 vests doing a similar thing for his ascent of One Step In The Clouds
Tomtom 08 Jan 2016
In reply to Reggie Perrin:

> I have wondered about this in the past, if a climbing wall could replicate real climbs, with holds postioned in precisely the right places and of the correct size. Maybe in 20 years we will look back and recognise this as a first of a new generation of indoor climbs.

There's a indoor wall in perth, aus, which has recreated Chris sharma's dreamcatcher as a feature wall. They've had to cut a little section out, but it's a great wall, and they've often set similar routes at easier grades around it. As the recreation is features only, it remains there.
 Andy Farnell 09 Jan 2016
In reply to UKC News: Erma, wasn't Hubble climbed in 1990 and now gets 9a, making it the first, not Action Direct. Just sayin...

Andy F

1
 ericinbristol 09 Jan 2016
In reply to andy farnell:

More than 'just sayin'. I am surprised that UKC is calling Action Directe the first 9a. Does UKC dispute the upgrading of Hubble to 9a?
1
 Dinger 10 Jan 2016
In reply to ericinbristol:

> More than 'just sayin'. I am surprised that UKC is calling Action Directe the first 9a. Does UKC dispute the upgrading of Hubble to 9a?

It would appear not: Hubble (9a)
 jon 10 Jan 2016
In reply to Aly:

> Looks like the rope comes a bit tight and kills his swing on the first move there!

Yes, I thought that too. But I reckon that if someone high profile like that thought that it'd have made any difference, he probably wouldn't have claimed the ascent... or allowed the video to be publicised?
 douwe 11 Jan 2016
In reply to jon:
This has been discussed to the death on (guess what) 8a.nu.
It even made Dai revoke his scorecard I think.
He said there was a lot of slack in the rope and it didn't kill his swing and I think his word should be enough. Saw him bouldering once and the guy has incredible body tension.
Post edited at 09:14
 jon 11 Jan 2016
In reply to douwe:

I'm sorry, I have no idea what 8a.nu is
 douwe 11 Jan 2016
In reply to jon:

Good for you!
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