UKC

Acquiring an injury is a climber's worst nightmare. There is a vast array of information about dealing with the physical recovery of an injury; with books, journals, sports doctors and physiotherapists on hand to help, but how do you cope with the internalised psychological strain?

Natalie Berry asks a mix of five professional athletes and dedicated amateurs with varying backgrounds - and a long list of varied and challenging injuries - to share their experience of coming back stronger from injury; mentally as well as physically.

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In reply to UKC Articles:

Really interesting article!

In reply to MeMeMe:

agreed, I liked it.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Yep good article. Those images of Hazel's shoulder surgery must surely be some of the weirdest pics on UKC.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Good article.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Interesting article. Am still recovering from breaking my leg in 5 places last March. The physical side of things is obvious with a lack of strength in the leg, a severe lack of mobility and a frustrating lack of precision when placing my right foot on a small or awkwardly facing holds. The mental side is more difficult. Walking is all a bit disabled although with poles I can go almost anywhere if rather slowly. Confidence has been severely dented and I find myself frequently thinking of the consequences of falling. This prevents flow of climbing and can even stop me from believing I can do things at all.

One of the problems is the amount of metalwork in my lower leg. A serious impact could result in worse damage to the leg. I find this in the back of my mind often.

Things aren't all grim though. I can climb with friends and enjoy being in beautiful places. Seconding is fine and I haven't failed to follow anything yet. Indoors I am able to try hard and am making progress on the steep stuff even taking falls where I know there is no danger of injury.

I would like to get back to the mountains and hope that this will be possible in the long run. I also aim to climb in one normal pair of my own shoes during 2016 so hopefully the swelling will subside.

I know that my own injuries could be far worse and that many others are less fortunate. I am making progress and am looking forward to seeing how much I can do with the bionic leg.

James

In reply to james mann:

It's impressive that you've got so far in that time- especially that you've enjoyed climbing and managed to rationalise safe falls...

I used to wonder about the metalwork. I realise that the impact that required for mine to be put there in the first place would be catastrophic with the metalwork. But I realised too that that sort of impact is not an option anyway, really.

I guess it made me change my outlook on that front permanently: certain moves with uncertain landings will never seem acceptable and that largely mitigates the risk. I guess now I definitely won't be ok in a situation that I almost definitely wouldn't have been OK in anyway... Maybe that's not so different.

It's food for thought, though.

The best of luck with getting over your injury, you sound pretty strong on that front

In reply to LisaA:

Agreed with LisaA, I'm also part of the bionic club and just don't put myself in those situations anymore, that still leaves plenty of climbing to go at.

I'd just give it time with the head game, for me it took longer to come back than the physical fitness but it gets there eventually.