UKC

Hallo I am Dave from Nederland (holland).
I have only climbed in Belgium (Freyr/hotton/durnal) and Spain (calpe 2x).
I need to know what size cams i need to buy for climbing in Llanberis pass and slate.
Also i am planning to climb on at great orme and little orme, end of may.

Do i need micro cams (totem cams) or dragon/camalot? or both?

My budget is very low, so helpful advice from locals would be very appreciated.

Greetings Dave.

In reply to resqueman:

Hi Dave,

I'm not an expert, but from my experience on the igneous rock in North Wales you will need a lot more nuts than cams - at least two sets. Assuming you have those already, Wild Country sizes 1.5 to 4 (2cm to 10 cm?) are probably the most use. The big ones are good as the nuts don't go that big and I don't like hexes.

On the Orme - I don't know. I've only done sport at Lower Pen Trwyn.

On the slate. Again, a lot more nuts required than anything else. I don't think many people place cams in slate on their first trip. It's very smooth.

Enjoy your trip

Cake

In reply to resqueman:

Your gonna need a large election of nuts (and micros) and a set of cams from micro to hand width.

In reply to JSH:
You don't NEED to buy any cams and on the Orme limestone their use will be especially limited. Wired nuts are what you need there. For slate I'm afraid my experience is limited but I would be surprised if cams were the first choice there as well. In the pass I would say Friend 0 to 4 or whatever the Dragon equivalent would cover a lot of classic ground (alongside a see of nuts)

In reply to GrahamD:

Thank you GrahamD And Jacob.
I was think along the lines of Micro 0.75 and small dragons 00/0 up to 2.
I have (a) set of peanuts and (a) set of walnuts. so i need one more set for slate.

In reply to Cake:

Thank you cake.
I know that slate is smooth and i was thinking about it last night.
Maybe nuts and hex are safer there?
Another set of nuts is in the planning.

In reply to resqueman:

I live in Llanberis so climb a fair bit around here.

In the pass dragons 0-5 are normally on my rack, maybe a couple of micros e1 and above depending on the route.

Cams can be great on the slate, yes you need to be cautious but as you progress you'll want them, micros to 3 ish, route dependent. Wires and micro wires will still make up most of the placements but never carry hexes on slate.

In reply to jezb1:

Thank you very much Jez, just the info i needed.
There are three of us coming over the last week of may 2016.
So i think are rack will be complete with some small cams and three sets of wallnuts.
For slate and around orme.