UKC

I was at a competition 2 days ago and after a break for lunch after the first round, I noticed when I was pulling on the start holds of some of the next round's problems that my right ring finger was sore. I didn't think much of it, warmed up and climbed the rest of the day no problem, I didn't feel a thing, I had actually forgotten about it until the next morning. The next day it was painful to bear weight on and is the same today. The pain is in just below the nail and slightly to the side of my middle finger. I have full range of motion and it is not sore during normal daily activities. My questions are; what is wrong with it and how do I fix it? Thanks in advance for any help!

In reply to Jack McKechnie:

Have a search through the Forums here for similar 'sore finger' posts and you'll find a whole heap of useful and not so useful information to take away. Mostly the advice can be summarised as:
a) If it's really bad rest, if mild pain/ discomfort then go easy on it and tape it up
b) Do some therapeutic exercises to keep it moving and get the blood flowing into the finger. Recovery is slow if it is ligament/ tendon damage and totally dependent on nutrients from the blood getting to where any damage might be. Any exercise, even cardio that doesn't use the finger at all will increase blood flow and speed up the healing process. (my two cents)
c) Gradually build up the amount you use it according to how much it hurts and hopefully it will heal nicely and you can get back to crimping hard!

In reply to Albachoss:

Thanks!

In reply to Jack McKechnie:

Below the nail doesn't sound like one of the more typical finger injuries. Usually its the pulleys, joints, ligaments or tendons that are the problem. Up in your fingertip suggests its nothing serious (though don't take anything for granted that you read on forums). You could try icing it which may help if there is underlying inflammation.

Bear in mind most climbing injuries heal by themselves anywhere between a few hours to a few weeks, just like cuts on the skin. If its not getting any better after a week or two consider seeing a physio. In the mean time try to climb and train around the injury as much as possible to give it the chance to heal.