UKC

right. off to rjukan in just over a few weeks. Dont live anywhere near outdoor ice, so whats my best use of indoor training time at the wall to prepare? routes but also bouldering wall as that way I'm not reliant on a training partner being available!

I'm thinking stamina and steep juggy stuff will be more relevant than technical and crimpy.

In reply to pebbles:

Yes, absolutely.

I use long endurance circuits on good holds on a slightly-overhanging circuit board. Move slowly and in control, focus on long moves with deep lock-offs while reaching for the next hold. Its a different style of movement from normal indoor climbing.

In reply to pebbles:

Technical & crimpy on an indoor wall is unlikely to be much help. Pulling up on your axes (getting used to the grip shape, wearing gloves), & shifting grip, including swapping hands. Placing front points on smallish hold & standing still/ stepping up (exercising calf muscles)& crossing legs/changing feet without snagging . Try some inch thick wooden blocks screwed into a wall (traverse along side of house) or a sturdy tree in the garden. Also fine tune screwing in/out with non - dominant hand, preferably while supporting your weight on front points & an axe. Unless you're climbing WI 5 upwards it should be your legs/calf's taking much of the strain, with the occasional strong pull/short arm lock - off required. Practice getting gear off/on harness, clipping gear, tying knots etc all in gloves that you plan on wearing. Get used to being well above dodgy gear - it mainly feels like soloing. Make sure your screws & axes & front points are sharp, & have fun!!

In reply to pebbles:

Have you tried standing in the shower with the cold flow dripping steadily on your head and drinking lager while stuffing ten pound notes down the plughole?

In reply to BnB:

No that sounds utterly horrible - I much prefer proper bitter.

In reply to pebbles:

Best stay in Yorkshire then

In reply to pebbles:

Make that twenty pound notes, you're going to Norway

Gentle calf stretches and conditioning exercises are worth while even its just standing on the edge of a step for a few minutes while you're having your coffee in the morning. Correct position on steep ice is heels level but knees slightly bent into the ice, which puts extra strain on your calves if they're tight.

In reply to pebbles:

My local wall has a dry tooling wall - always useful for getting used to climbing on tools again. Also worth doing pull ups on your ice axes at home via the loft hatch.

In reply to neilwiltshire:
ah, good thought there, I had tried on a padded pull up bar but found it wasnt high enough...loft hatch is an inspired idea

In reply to pebbles:



How many weeks? If it's less than four and you're not already training regularly I'm not sure I'd bother, and certainly not with any aerobic training, which will require a much longer adaption time.

In reply to pebbles:

At WI3 I would reckon general cardio would be your first priority. On top of that, I've got some 1kg weights that I swing over my head as if they're axes for as long as I can, concentrate on good form and duration rather than speed or power - useful to be able to swing accurately even when you're triceps are tired. I practice hanging from one axe and then another (with feet taking some of your weight) as long as I can in the manner of placing screws. Be careful with your elbows hanging straight armed!

In reply to planetmarshall:

three, but its hardly the first training of the year, I'v been doing 2-3 wall sessions a week since autumn started! - I'm just trying to focus now on stuff specific to this trip

In reply to iksander:

will be intending to get up a few more WI4s this time assuming conditions are right and I'm not climbing like a arthritic hedgehog with vertigo

In reply to planetmarshall:


Disagree, any targeted conditioning is better than none. Yes you won't get deep underlying adaptations but even three or four targeted sessions over a couple of weeks is enough for me to feel a difference in movement patterns and engagement.

Regarding pull-ups on tools though I actually wouldn't bother, or at least do them with foot support so you can manage plenty of reps. No pure ice route that I've ever done needed that much pure strength, what counts is endurance and learning to stay relaxed as much as possible.

In reply to elliptic:


Well not necessarily. You could A) get injured or B) suffer from overtraining effects during the week you're actually intending to perform.


Anecdotal. Whether you get any benefit will be heavily dependent on what you were prior to starting targeted sessions - could be muscular, could be a neurological adaption ( which is still worthwhile, though ).


Agree here, I would focus on drills you might actually get benefit from and that target energy systems with short adaption times, eg

- Isometric axe hangs, with added weight if necessary
- Single arm hang with pull ( Hang on ice axe with one hand, feet supported, reach up with the other hand. Use a dumb bell in the empty hand if necessary )
- Box step up (at least 12") with loaded pack or barbell
- Hill climbs with water jugs or loaded pack
- Deadlifts
- Leg raises hanging on ice axe, and other core drills
- Climb underside of ladder with your tools

I'd be skeptical of achieving any aerobic capacity gains at this stage unless you've been training those energy systems for a while.

In reply to pebbles:
Surprised no one has mentioned it, I find calf raises super important before ice climbing as they are easily over used both during a climb and for a few days after if not in condition.

I think your arms will be ok if you are climbing regularly anyway. If you can do dry tooling at a local wall that would be good also, or perhaps borrow / hire some of these http://www.dryicetools.com/icicles/

In reply to pebbles:

Take your tools down the local playpark or anywhere you can hang from them. Slow pull ups, hamd swaps and leg raises (focus on core)

Definitely heal raises for legs.

buy me a pint once there and i'll tell more.

Heading on 19th

In reply to Alex Slipchuk:



^^^^^^^

That will probably get you nicked...

In reply to Alex Slipchuk:
Me too! You're not on the Edinburgh flight are you?