UKC

I'm interested in climbing a 6000m plus peak in South America this year. I fancy visiting the continent and also to get the experience of climbing a very high mountain! There's obviously a wide range to choose from so I'm looking for ideas, inspiration and any information people would care to share. I'm open minded as to which particular country i visit. My highest mountain to date is Mt Blanc and I'm interested in routes up to PD, or if exceptional, perhaps a little higher (as would likely get a guide!).

Thanks

In reply to davidrj1:

How adventurous do you want to be? If you want a remote serious expedition don't ask me but if something well documented is more like it then the Huaraz in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru is a good place for your first Andean climbs.

The town is well set up for tourism and climbing but without being overpoweringly so (like say Chamonix or Zermatt are). There are relatively easy acclimatisation peaks and a few easier 6000ers.
This is the guidebook
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Climbs-Cordillera-Blanca-David-Sharman/dp/095235820...
but bear in mind it is only a "guide" book, not the sort of definitive blow by blow account we've come to expect in Europe. Descriptions can be vague and some of the grades look questionable because its based on so little information but if you stick to the classics it should be more accurate.

The mountains are definitely a step up from the Alps, fewer people, fewer paths, cairns etc (if any), no organised rescue (or helicopters) etc. many routes in the book will never have been repeated and a busy route might get climbed once a week.
That said there are a very small number of routes which do get climbed regularly and on which you probably won't be alone. Some of them are documented in this excellent glossy coffee table book which is worth buying if you deceide to go there.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Classic-Climbs-Cordillera-Blanca-Peru/dp/0975860615

In reply to davidrj1:

You need to have a look at this http://www.andes.org.uk/andes-guidebooks.asp or some of the info on that site.

If you're inexperienced and looking for something up to PD, but over 6000m, the best of the Blanca peaks might be a bit much.

Bolivia has easier 6000ers, with slightly better access and weather. Parinacota is extremely easy, technically even easier than Huayna Potosi, which is regarded as one of the easiest and most popular Andean 6000ers. Sajama is quite high, and only a bit harder than Parinacota, and they're in a beautiful area. Illimani is mostly straightforward, with good access, but can have variable climbing up high re: crevasses, and the route up to high camp is awful.

Ecuador is also popular, and has two seasons, but I've never been there. Conditions seems changeable in recent years, plus they now forbid unguided climbing above 5000m (maybe not relevant to you, but not something I would support).

There are dozens of suitable high peaks in the central Andes of Argentina and Chile. Some of them might be a bit boring, others are much more interesting but hardly visited, so hard to arrange access. It's also a Nov-Feb area, whereas Peru/Bolivia is May-August, so it depends when you can go.

In reply to davidrj1:

Bolivia's Cordillera Real fit the bill very well. This article is (hopefully) a useful place to start: http://www.ukhillwalking.com/articles/page.php?id=7442

In reply to davidrj1:

I'm also hoping to climb a 6000m peak in South America this year, in the Cordillera Blanca. A couple I know have invited me along on an organised trip. They're not going that high, but the lead guide suggested we could all acclimatise together and then split to climb different peaks at the end. Candidate peaks are: Ishinka, Tuqllarahu, Chopicalqui, Pisco ...

PM me if you're interested.

In reply to davidrj1:

The Cordillera Blanca is not a good place to to a peak if you're only looking to climb to Alpine PD and want to get above 6000m.... there isn't much to choose from there. As others suggest Bolivia is better if you want to do a snow and ice 6000m peak, Parinacota or Huayna Potosi are good options.
The easiest non-technical peaks are in the south of Peru near Arequipa, north of Chile around San Pedro de Atacama, or in the Puna de Atacama of Chile and Argentina. They might seem a bit boring, just high-altitude hillwalks, but you're much more likely to get to your summit because of this, and they're great for learning the other altitude skills (camp management, how to deal with the altitude, etc.). In these areas Chachani, Hualca Hualca, Aucanquilcha, Pili, Queva, San Francisco are all good options.... Overall San Francisco is probably the easiest 6000'er in the whole of the Andes, a 5 or 6 hour walk up a path from an asphalted road. I've done it in a day return forma hotel before!
Ecuador is not a good option now because of the requirement to be guided, plus the only 6000'er there is Chimborazo and it's a bit sketchy these days, definitely no longer PD.

John

In reply to davidrj1:

Thanks folks, appreciate the advice. a lot to consider and I may well be back to ask further questions. hokkoyuiski will keep you posted but very early days as things stand...