I bought an expensive very medical-technical Sports Medicine book (recommended in the bibliography of Dave MacLeod's excellent Make or Break book). Indeed that technical-medical Sports Medicine book said that golfer's elbow and tennis elbow was normally expected to recover within a few months pretty much no matter what treatment was used. No recommendation of eccentric exercise over normal "concentric" exercise.
otherwise ...
* Most climbers with elbow problems do _not_ have "tennis elbow".
* My memory is that in another place in Dave MacLeod's book, he says that there is no substantial clinical evidence supporting _eccentric_ contraction exercise for golfer's elbow. Apparently he recommends eccentric because it worked well for himself.
* As normal "concentric" contraction exercises are normally performed, the each complete motion cycle _includes_ an eccentric contraction. So even it it's true that eccentric is somehow better for healing golfer's elbow, you are getting it anyway "for free" just by doing normal exercise.
I think what's really great about the discussion of elbow problems in Dave MacLeod's book, Make or Break, is that he starts with more careful _diagnosis_, which if done carefully could save half the time and effort spent on golfer's elbow rehab exercises.
Ken
Post edited at 01:38