UKC

Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=633697
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Psyche video of the week: vimeo.com/146370910 for some mortal grade bouldering in the forest.....

Posters:
Robin Brooke - with your fingerboarding, have I read it right that you're using the same weight for all your grip types? I'd have thought that translates into a very different intensity per grip. You mentioned advice in your post - my main thought was that 3 weeks of endurance training isn't very much in normal circumstances, but then if you're off on a Euro road trip then you'll only get fitter and weaker as it progresses! Do let me know if you want beta on any areas.
Tony B - progress on the aeropow then? Let me know your plans for next weekend.
Emily - there are relatively steep lower grade sport destinations out there if you go looking for them. Good job getting the goals out there. I know the sort of thing you mentioned about falling - the anticipation is often the worse thing.
planetmarshall - how was Lillehammer? Did you manage the rest of the training you had planned?
JayK - welcome back!
Si dH - cheers for holding the fort. Good you've got a diagnosis at least.
Nick Russell - any routes in mind for Margalef? Sounds like good work on the UCR route ticking
xbraddersx - welcome!
The Ex-Engineer - thats definitely a pretty varied week! How are conditions looking at the minute?
biscuit - good focus on the goals for the week. Did you get onto routes and could you feel any difference from the training?
Ian Bell - I'd have thought you might want some more intense power endurance stuff in the run up to France if you think you can take it, rather than just ARC?
hms - looks like the Wildside prep is going well - improvements on the core, ticking on the routes and definitely high volume. Time to start thinking about the taper soon?
Dandan82 - super psyched that you're seeing progress!
hokkyokusei - sounds like a pretty hectic week, but how can you describe a huge kilt-clad piss-up as "not a fantastic week"!
alexm198 - big tick, nice one!
stevemarkperry - hows the thumb?
spenser - taking a break - maybe see you again soon
mattrm - did you identify why you were feeling a bit run down?
Curious Yellow - Makinodromo from the Olive Branch is a long walk to the crag! I'm not surprised you felt broken the next day!
James Moyle - a few lb per week sounds doable (he says, optimistically) so your goal doesn't seem too far out.
Joyce - impressive level of training you're keeping up given the demands of a new baby!
AJM
Humperdink - nice job!
flopsicle - scale readings like that are definitely unfair. Just measure everything relatively - its not what the number says thats important its whether its going up or down!
Just Tintin - hang on in there - it'll get better
Tyler - sticking to the 3-day rest window is good dedication
Dandelion - bad luck on the assessment - next time!

Lurking:
cha1n
The Fox

In reply to AJM:

Nice little vid.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks for starting the thread AJM, and thanks again for the guidebook! There's a really cool photo in there of a 7c+ called Maligna, which I fancy a go at. It's on a South facing crag though, which may restrict decent redpoint attempts to mornings? I also don't want to sacrifice an entire trip at the altar of a single redpoint, so I'm a bit undecided whether to go for this, or just try for a good haul of low 7s, hopefully with a 7b (+?) onsight in there.

M - Rest day
T - am: Core. pm: TCA. Ticked a red and two purples. Really close on another red, but after figuring it out I didn't have enough left to put it all together.
W - Core
T - Fingerboard. Feeling really strong on the middle two repeaters, something that I've never managed before.
F - UCR. Warm-up on 4 x up/down pairs. Main session 4x4, mostly on 6c. A mix of up and down.
S - Meant to do a short core/antagonist session, but I'd had a set of kettlebells delivered, and decided to play with them. It turned into the Ultimate Shoulder Workout of Pain.
S - UCR. Warm-up on 3 x up/down pairs. Main session 4x3, about half on 6c+. There's a good range of 6c/+ in there at the moment, which is perfect for this kind of session.
Edit to add weight: 66.1kg

The persistent rain is starting to get to me. It's not like there haven't been any dry days; they're just too unpredictable/not at weekends/not consistent enough for me to really make the most of them. Spain should sort that out, and I'm really looking forward to getting back to Pembroke/Sharpnose later in the spring.

STG - last minute trip prep for 13th March departure to Margalef.

Volume/endurance training: 8 sessions during February. 2/8

Keep up some strength: 5 fingerboard sessions before trip. 1/5

Don't get injured. OK so far.

MTG

spring: keep the pressure on the E4s. Still have to get on Central Wall (E4 6a), Star Wars (E4 5c), Mother Africa (E4 6a), Pacemaker (E5 6a), ...

summer/autumn sport trip: Ceuse or Frankenjura? Route objectives TBC when I actually plan something.

Sub-90 half marathon (Bristol half, September). Benchmark 10k (sub-40 in Bristol 10k, May).

LTG

varied E5 onsights

Get out to Orkney with The Fox

Snowdonia marathon I'll be up at midnight next New Year!

BHAG

The Long Hope Route

In reply to AJM:

Thanks. Slightly odd week this week, had a vague low-level cold since about Tuesday but mostly managed to pretend it wasn't happening. I did use it as an excuse to avoid running a planned interval set in the heavy rain and gale force wind though.

Monday - nothing.

Tuesday - bouldering at TCA, better session than last time. Some greens (mostly flashes) and a few more yellows that I couldn't do / hadn't tried before.

Wednesday - morning run, 6.4km in 34:47.

Thursday - nothing. Should have done my other run but didn't manage to drag myself out before work, busy after.

Friday - climbing at UCR. Some up-and-downs to warm up, then 4x6a, 4x6a (only made it about 2/3 up on the last one), 4x6a (soft one), 4x6a (outrageously soft one). Jumped off without clipping the chains on all of them. Probably should have picked something a bit harder for the last set, didn't seem quite tired enough?

Saturday - nothing. Should have done my other run, but weather / lazy.

Sunday - climbing at UCR. Low energy. More up-and-down warmups, then 3x6a, 3x5c, 3x6a, 2x6a (fell off halfway and didn't try for a third). Tried to jump without clipping again but the first and fourth sets were too scary for that.

Goals / progress on them:

Short term (Feb)

• get weight trending downwards. More actionably: pay attention to food with this in mind
  • collected weight data this week, will see how it goes next week
• 2 runs/week per my plan in prep for Bristol 10k
  • 1/8 in Feb so far, missed one this week try harder
• do some high-volume climbing sessions
  • yes, 2 of these this week
• do fall practice in every volume session
  • 2/2, at least tried; it went better the first time than the second

Medium term (Feb, Mar, Apr)

• follow running plan for Bristol 10k
  • 4/39 done, 1 either skipped or to be squeezed in as an extra this week
• climb with good attitude in Spain (mid March) and have fun even if I suck!
  • could have made more effort this week (mainly today) to apply this to indoor climbing too...
• climb something outside in the UK if the weather ever cooperates

Minor miracle level "maybe someday" wishes

• redpoint something beginning with 7 indoors?
• redpoint something beginning with 7 outdoors??
• lead a VS??? (don't care whether onsight or after seconding a billion times, but this does include placing the gear myself)

In reply to Nick Russell:


Which crag? Depends how hot it is I guess. I saw photos of people I know recently climbing at the laboratory with torches at night, but if you're lucky it won't be quite that hot.

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy.

Goals:
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Jan/Feb: Jerry's Traverse (Cratcliffe) and at least 3 other grit 7Bs. [so far T Crack and A Case of Mistaken Identity.]
March: Do Crazy Horse (7B) and either Magic Bus or La Barre Fixe (7B+) in Font. After Font, do Moffatrocity (7B+) if it's dry, or Wright's Traverse (7B) if Moff is still wet.
April: Moffatrocity if not done in March, then Eastwood Traverse (7B+). Start doing some limestone or Churnet bouldering in the evenings again once the clocks change.
May/June/July: Do a few more Font 7Bs on limestone or sandstone, and do Arch Enemies (F7c+)
August: Continue bouldering (more limestone F7B/+s) and, if Arch Enemies went well, get on an F8a.
September: Do the F8a.
October: Once finished (for good or bad) with the F8a, try Paint it Black (Ft7C) at Blackwell Dale.
November/December: Finish off Paint it Black if it feels doable and stays dry for long enough. Then get on the grit, goals being a Ft7B+ and maybe try Tetris (Ft7C).


M: rest
T: did some shoulder rehab work. This is a combination of upper back (thoracic) flexibility work, massage type stuff, scapular setting and theraband exercises (with my shoulder blades consciously pulled down to properly engage my lower traps).
W: went for a lantern session on Flatworld. Conditions were ok but I felt fairly cold and weak. Only managed the crux once and didn't get in to the next move properly, much weaker than the previous session. Shoulder didn't hurt significantly while actually climbing but aching in between and afterwards.
T: Rest (shoulder still aching)
F: Core session (as per the previous week) and lots of shoulder rehab work.
S: Rest/lazy day
S: Fingerboard then shoulder rehab work. Fingerboard session was good. Warmed up for a bit longer than usual including a few repeaters (more to make sure my shoulders were warm than anything else, then decided to test my max hang strength with a view to doing max hangs for a while, as I've only ever done repeaters on the fingerboard before, and trying new things is always good. I followed Joyce's thing based roughly on Steve Maisch, doing 4 x 10 second hangs on each of three grip types. Results were: bodyweight + 25.3kg on roughly 18mm edges half-crimp (ie the deep 4 finger pockets on a BM2000, with an AA battery in the back); bodyweight + 26.4kg on the 35mm slopers; bodyweight (+ 0kg) on the (again roughly 18mm?) shallower 2 finger pockets, with a middle 2 drag.

Weight last Sunday night was 11st 0lbs.

First 2-3 days were focussed on trying to make the most of Wednesday as the forecast said it'd be the only dry chance to get on some rock. I was then fairly depressed for a couple of days about my shoulder and having felt weak on Wednesday. Managed to snap out of it and do some core and really good rehab work on Friday night, and have felt better over the weekend. Was pleased with the fingerboard session this morning: (1) doesn't seem to have aggravated the shoulder much, particularly with careful warm-up and rehab afterwards, (2) I managed to add more weight than I'd expected, and suspect that I could actually go a tiny bit further now I know better where to start. I've also realised I could do some quite good pinch grip training on the rafters in my cellar, which would be a completely new thing for me - so I'll probably add that to my next fingerboard session.

Focus is going to be on fingerboard and shoulder rehab work now until such time as it feels a bit more robust - at which point I'll try bouldering at the wall again. I'm only going to go outside for the next few weekends if conditions, energy and psyche all come together at once - it's not worth delaying my recovery for the sort of marginal days I've been going out in so far this year. I want to focus on being strong and well for Font in early March.

Si

In reply to AJM:

It's at Espadelles, one of the really long ones. The book says it faces SW. Laboratori looks pretty awesome, and is definitely the crag I'd seen most in photos. Looks short and powerful, which is probably not my forte at the moment (and I'm certainly not doing anything about that in the meantime!)

In reply to AJM:

Motivation: Still sky high.

M-Rest
T-Fingerboard repeaters followed by 10mins of Aero to flush the arms.
W- Campus board followed by core session.
T-Rest
F-Aero session to build up super pump.
S- 45minute board session, setting up some decent problems. Didn't quite make it to the top on anything Worked hard but didn't leave tired.
S-Fingerboard repeaters (same as Tuesday but felt much stronger) followed by Fridays Aero session and then Wednesdays core session. Feeling tired this evening. Worked hard tired. Ace!

Let week 2 commence.

In reply to AJM:

Having a (self inflicted) assignemnt deadline crisis tonight so just a quick one for now.

Anyone got any decent tips for accommodation in Chulilla?

It's my 40th and i'd rather be somewhere half decent rather than a budget hostel.

Also any tips for 7a-b grade range that will be OK to climb in Easter?

Cheers.

In reply to AJM:


Your absolutely right and the prompt is great, I will change things and start calibrating each grip type with different weight for the repeaters from now on. Thanks - helps as I learn! On Endurance phase length (am also learning) I'm following the plan structure in the Anderson Brothers book. 3 weeks endurance, 4 weeks strength, 3 weeks power, 3 weeks power endurance, 3 weeks performance, 1 week rest. Thanks for the offer of Beta will definitely take you up come April.

Periodized training, week 4 of 16 (Strength phase) Priority is 2 fingerboard sessions plus 2 core workouts. Adding swimming and fun leading where possible. Good week in terms of volume. Its early in the fingerboarding sessions, but I'm working hard to stand still i.e. do the same routine with same weight. Will focus more next week on being fresh and calibrating each grip type…

M: fun leading at castle new 7a+ project (yellow/dogged), 7a (black, vertical techy), 6c (red on steep overhang), 4 x 6b-6a.
T: outdoor swim 2km (am) & core pilates 60mins (eve) Worked hard in core pilates today, extra weight and resistance.
W: fingerboard (am) & core pilates 60mins (eve) 2xsets of 6 repeaters per grip type, 7secs on 3secs off, 3mins rest between sets; grips: Jug, large open hand edge, IMR 1-pad 3F pocket, 18mm half crimp, IMR 1-pad 3F pocket, Wide pinch, Sloper 20dg, Narrow pinch. Effective body weight 65kg (-9kg) for hangs. Was tired today for core pilates, lots of glute, thigh and leg work, tired…hard…
Th: outdoor swim 1.8km
F: fun leading at castle 6c (red/steep), 7a+ (yellow/close), 7a project (red/steep crimpy), close to onsight new 6c+ (pink). Warm-ups on 5+, 6a+, 6b. Expecting my performance to suffer during the training, definitely did during endurance phase, but was good to feel better today.
S: fingerboard Same as Wednesday, although missed out narrow pinch as tendons were really sore decided not to overdo it…
Su: outdoor swim 1.8km

STG:
-stick to 16 week periodized training plan
-consolidate indoor 7a and 7a+ indoor RP's
-get Girlfriend recovered from her Achilles tendon injury asap! she climbed this week all top-rope with 9 x 6a/6a+ didn't swell too much, hope we can get her climbing min. once week in Feb.
MTG:
-lots of 7a & 7a+ RP, and get on and try 7b outdoor in 2016
-E2 & E3 HP's in 2016,
-leave job, leave country, climb lots starting april
BHAG's
Some current ambitions for future epics, which are a way off in terms of ability, endurance, courage, fitness, but I'd love to get there one day.
La Fete des Nerfs, 300m, 7a+
Mescalito, Paroi Rouge, 250m, 7c
The Nose, 900m, 5.9 / C2
Freerider, 900m, 7c (probably following someone better than me!)

In reply to biscuit:

I don't know about accommodation, but of the routes I'm sure you'll have seen recommendations for anything on that long wall with balcon, oasis, chorreras etc on it will all be shady. Chorreras has loads of 40m stuff in the 7a-b sort of range, there's some really good stuff at Oasis too

In reply to Nick Russell:

That's a pretty sunny one I think. At that sort of grade on the shady side if you like it really pumpy magic festival and the other one there would be my pick.

In reply to biscuit:

Make sure you spellcheck that?

In reply to The Fox:


Thanks for the top tip

Two assignments due in the week. Finished one due in for tomorrow. Turns out that's not due in tomorrow but later in the week and the one i've left IS due in tomorrow. Doh!

In reply to AJM:

Thanks for doing fitclub Andy. Wasn't going to start the taper till next week I must admit. Another busy week, some of which I've forgotten so this is a slightly approximate retelling!

M - cycle commute. Swiss ball core in evening plus 3xS&C. I'm starting to have my doubts about the S&C exercises cos my shoulder was aching nastily next day. Don't know which off the exercises is annoying it though.
T - cycle commute. Long fingerboard session in evening. 6/4/6/2 repeaters to warm up, then 10sec hangs moving up the weights to 15kg. Few 6/4/6/2 iterations at body weight afterwards. Finding I can hold the 19m rungs far better with 3 fingers than with 4.
W - cycle commute. UCR in evening. Extremely hazy memory of what I did but think it was 14 routes in pairs.
T - cycle commute. UCR in evening. Circuits, mainly trying the harder one on the 45degree. Problem is it's a comp circuit so starts far too easy then escalates to a horrendous end. Did quite a lot of attempts starting at 20, but couldn't get beyond 36 on my best go. Also did a fair amount of foot on campusing, laddering up & down 1-3-5-5-3-2-1 in repeats of 6 then rest. Swiss ball wk 4 when I got home.
F - Max session. Not quite so psychotic this week. 16 routes in pairs with rest time = climb time which meant I climbed v v slowly. Fell off lots of stuff!
S - Swiss ball wk 4, Tom R 'easy' core complete x1
S - UCR. Various warmup routes then tries at 7b, 7a+, 7a+, 7b+, 7a in singles. That final 7a I missed a foot first time. Had a cup of tea then another go - pinged off the final move. Pulled the rope & lead clean, touched down then straight up again (rope still in place). So that's 3 laps of a 7a - first time I've lapped one. Flat wall fiddly with horrid slopey holds. The 7a+ is new & might go, but has 2 huge boulder moves over the overhang. The 7b I finally stuck the long move but promptly fell off as I had no idea what to do next. Good session.

In reply to AJM:

Mon: 13 hours at work followed by a rubbish night's sleep :-/
Tues: Wall. Weirdly after the previous day had a really good short boulder, made progress on a shouldery V4 I've been struggling with.
Wedns: Rest.
Thurs: Rest.
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Bouldering at the Project. Good session, nice wall, interesting problems. Bit weird to have no indication of grades at all though!
Sun: Portland, Southwell Landslips. Did my second 6b+

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy.

Yes i've seen some differences in performance, which is always nice

Last weeks targets


Complete 2 x AnCap – complete 4 sets on current problem and then change it. NOT DONE
Fun session x1 - routes now i think. Fingers crossed for this week, really looking forward to tying back in again. DONE
Physio x5 -DONE
Lose 1lb and .5% fat. This week: 154.4lbs 18.9% currently 155lbs and 19.1% FAIL But the last 3 days have all been in the mid 18's% so hopefully something is on the move.


Bit of a hit and miss week. Routes was a really good session. Felt terrible to start. Took some practice falls but my route reading was all off. Went to the tall wall and managed to onsight a 7a, took a short rest, and then tried another. Fell off the penultimate move. Gutted and happy at the same time. I had lots of fitness (recovery was really good) but i was getting pumped really quickly. So it took ages for me to crawl my way up them. It's been a long while since i onsighted 7a indoors so this is all good.

Physio is producing some good effects. My hip isn't painful (after nearly 15 yrs of chronic pain) and my stance has changed. I'm noticeably walking differently and feel more springy when i walk/run. The pain in my right ankle seems to be on its way out too. Long way to go yet though.

Went to Rochdale wall to try out their LED Moon board but got the opening times wrong and had to sit outside until 12. The board will be really good but not for now. It should be perfect for AnPow. It's bloody hard. In the hour i had i warmed up a bit and then managed two 6b+'s and they felt like the living end.

Tonight should have been AnCap down at AW but due to me getting assignments muddled up i'm working instead.

So not a great week.
Stg’s

Complete An Cap sets and then adjust problem difficulty.
I'm not setting indoor route targets as its training not performance.

Bringing in an cap in Feb then an pow in March for a small first cycle before Easter.

Mtg

Chulilla at Easter - 7a+/b on sight. Re-assess where I'm at then before assembling next training cycle to peak end of summer. 12% bf or lower by Summer.

This week:

Complete 2 x AnCap - new problem needed
Fun session x1 - routes now i think.
Physio x5
Lose 1lb and .5% fat. This week: 155lbs and 19.1%

In reply to AJM:
STG - Easter
- V6/7 (7A/+) in Albarracin (not been yet), Bishop (not been yet) and at home (1x 7A). Try a local V8
- short trip 8a send (Mediterraneo (8a)?)
- local things to look at - Hall of Mirrors (7c), Nightmare Scenario (7c), maybe Fighting Torque (8a)
- get the regular weight logging back on track and manage the weight back down

MTG - 2016
- get on Infinite Gravity (8a+). Also try Fuel My Fire (8a+), The Cider Soak (8a), and some harder west coast 7s (Tennessee (7c), Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) etc)
- maybe some onsighting if I can get a trip together
- get trad mojo back, get more E4s done, try to break into E5
- another adventure trip, back to wendenstock perhaps
- build on dws - swanage and Devon classics, push the boat out at lulworth.
- buy a house, do the Dragon Tour, other non climbing goals.

BHAG
- its been in the back of my mind for a while, and its a monstrous step from where I am now, but Tom Et Je Ris (8b+). Its probably even further away than 8a was when I started thinking about 8a, but you gotta try, right?
- single pitch E6, big adventure E5s and all the adventures that would bring (alps etc)

1/2 & 2/2 was Albarracin as reported last week.
3/2 - few sets of pullups
4/2 - progressive ancap session. Tried to keep it fairly short to allow for net skin regrowth.
5/2 - rest
6/2 am - fingerboard first thing. Double pullups @ 96.4kg, 99.1kg, 101.5kg (1 double rep, failed on second at 1.5 pullups). New PB!
6/2 pm - a good session at the Project - showing new people around meant I ended up doing a load of things I'd never really tried before and also as a bonus ended up ticking off 2 problems I'd been trying for a while and a few others I'd had half-hearted goes at too. Also some offset pullups and some front lever progressions.
7/2 - nipped out to Portland before the deluge arrived. Got a few problems done - a stiff little 1-move 6B flash (one move into a Fb5 stand), then first go on a 6B+ which shared the start. Also did another 6B+ with a fun mantel topout. Had a few goes at the start with various fet and then in the end campused it which was good fun, almost certainly harder but good fun. Keen to go back to that bit at some point theres some cool stuff I'd like to try.

A good week. Missed a bunch of stuff off plan, I think I forgot to say I was away the first half of the week and I've had to back off a bit to try to get some net skin re-growth going on. However, some good results from the sessions I had. Feeling good on the bouldering at the minute.

I was going to try to fit in something this evening to really earn a rest day tomorrow but when I sat down after getting home it became apparent I needed the rest regardless of what I did this evening! Skin is trashed and generally feeling a bit achey. Probably do some stuff tomorrow focusing on the arms to try to let the skin regrow some, then push on into next week.

Be interesting to see where I'm at on the foot on campus versus the benchmarks from the end of last year.

Weight was hovering around 73kg late week with 72.3kg Saturday morning so a kilo and maybe a bit more to go over the next fortnight, just got to be focused.

In reply to AJM:


Thanks AJM, not as psyched as me!

M: gymnastic bodyweight/antagonist exercises, worked out a session with handstand, handstand press, l sits, leg raises, tuck planche and a bunch of flexibility stretches, much more interesting than just pumping antagonist dumbbells.
T: bouldering, my roped climbing partner bailed so went for a boulder. I did a really steady warm up, but i pulled on and the left elbow wasn't having any of it straight away. I was really pleased that I just stopped and went home instead of pushing on, it felt worryingly sore so I'm glad I stopped.
W: gym bodyweight antags, everything still feels mega difficult!
T: climbing, routes; I was worried that Tuesday might have set me back but everything felt good, I did the 6b+ that I had done last week and it felt really solid, I needed something a little harder to aggravate the elbows. Got on a throwy 6c+ with big moves on good holds and surprised myself by flashing it! Perfect workout for the elbows, they felt nicely tired, its the first time I've had to try on a route since October, felt good!
F:
S: boulder; went to try out red spider, new boulder wall in Fareham, it was really good, nice range of problems in coloured circuits. I ended up climbing much harder than I had planned, flashed a couple of V4s and spent a good while working the V3-V5 circuit, again I got a good level of aggravation on the elbows but no problems.
S: DIY club, fitted stair spindles on the landing, good job well done.

I went to see a new Physio on Saturday morning, a local(ish) guy who is also a climber, I've been asking everyone if they new a climbing specific Physio in our area for years, and suddenly a couple of months ago a mate reveals they've known this guy for ages! Even better, he has done specific studies on tennis elbow.
I really liked his approach, he's given me a couple of things to work on, easing the nerve that runs down the arm, stretching out the shoulders, and for my old faithful long term elbow overuse issue, working on my triceps as they are 'weak' (the cheek of it!) He likes what I am doing so far and was happy for me to keep climbing.


Last week's goals:
Touch my toes by the end of the week: Nearly!
2 more climbing sessions 14+ routes up to 6b+: 2 proper sessions, up to 6c+ and V4!
Read my gymnastic/bodyweight book and work out a new antagonist session: Done!

New STG
Touch my toes!
2 climbing sessions, 15+ routes
Hold freestanding handstand for 5 seconds

MTG:
Stay healthy for Margalef so that I can at least climb something

In reply to AJM:

Good session on Monday with systems board followed by continuous climbing and then I've been ill for the rest of the week. Better now, but not back to normal. The aim for this week is to recover in time for the weekend.

In reply to AJM:

Tue - CYCLE - 17km 360m ascent
Thurs - BOULDER - TCA Anon comp. Flashed 12/20 problems Really fought for 2 or 3 of them
Sat - RUN - 12.7km along the South Coast at Hengistbury Head. Windy!
Sun - WALK - about 5km with family

Lots of food at the in-laws this weekend means the average weight loss mid-week has been written off. Need to get more sessions in this week to counteract that!

In reply to AJM:



Well, I was talking about the running, but yeah, it was a great week overall

M: 2 hrs drills, plyometrics, core & circuits
T: Partial recce of the Wadsworth Trog, about 21k off road, very muddy and windy! With an ex-work colleague - took ages as we were catching up on seven years worth of gossip and kept getting lost.
W: rest
T: rest
F: rest
S: Wadsworth Trog, 31km, 4:45:50. The weather wasn;t great and I struggled with cramp for the last 6km or so. The hardest run I've ever done, I think!
S: rest!

STG of qualifying for the Three Peaks Fell run has hopefully been met by completing the Trog.

Weight 82.3kg, Body fat 19.5%

In reply to AJM: Not an amazing week but OK.

M - rest
T - rest
W - Comb Gully (IV 4) on Ben Nevis
T - Wavelength (IV 4) in Cairn Gorm - Stob Coire an t-Sneachda
F - Green Gully (IV 4) on Ben Nevis, solo
S - Red Gully (II) in Cairn Gorm - Stob Coire an t-Sneachda, climbing more like III.
S - Fluted Buttress Direct (IV 5) in Cairn Gorm - Stob Coire an t-Sneachda, rather hard work, definitely climbing as V,5.

Fingers crossed for some decent conditions on the Ben this week.

In reply to Si dH:

Morning Camper,

Ooh, very excited that you had a pop at the same strength thang, it's great to compare your efforts to mine. Interestingly, you're a few kg stronger on each of the three grips and you're working problems a couple of grades harder too - that's exciting and gives me inspiration to keep up the max strength hangs to be able to crank out some harder grades.

Also, re. pinches; if you can't hold the beams, our new mate, Steve Maisch (and others I've seen) use pinch blocks to train their pinch grips. I'm gonna set this up as soon as I get around to ordering some eye bolts - simple but effective, which is, I think, the key to making all this training work. Video of Steve M's pinch blocks here:

http://www.stevemaischtraining.com/fingerboarding-for-maximum-strength.html

I should also say that, if you haven't perused his website, our mate Steve (we're on first name terms now) does 4 fingers half crimp, mid 2 finger pockets and pinch grips. I substituted the 35' sloper for the pinch as I'm a) not great on 'em and b) don't have anything set up for pinches at the mo'.

Most importantly, did you feel like you'd done something after you'd done the hangs? I didn't feel pumped or worn out but definitely struggled when doing Strength Endurance (An Cap) stuff the next day, my forearms felt wasted (although must admit that it was better this week but maybe I'm adapting to it a bit (he says hopefully, inside an extra set of brackets 'cos it's at the volume level known as 'the unbelievably quiet whisper of possible possibility' )).

Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX

In reply to Joyce:
Hey Joyce, thanks. I did see Steve's thing about pinch blocks but figured I'll try the beams first.
By the end of the session my fingers were definitely failing faster, but not long afterwards I felt like I hadn't done anything, a bit like you it sounds like. I wondered if I should have done more. Overall it felt a lot less taxing than my usual 10x 6-set-repeaters session. I'm planning to try to do something this evening (~36 hrs rest) so based on your experience it'll be interesting to see if I'm weak the next day.
Was listening to Steve Bechtel yesterday and he pointed out that if you get tired, you're no longer training strength... counter intuitive but makes me feel a bit happier about not feeling so beat up.

Ps. Andy - what holds are the double pull ups on, 18mm?

In reply to Si dH:
19mm I think.

Medium (25mm) campus rung, on the flat side, with 6mm ply to narrow it. So a tiny bit of rounding but nothing compared say to the little edges on a bm2k

Edit: just mailed you a photo...

In reply to hms:

Listen to Andy - you need to taper! That's some silly volume to be doing 2 weeks out from a trip.

Quality, not quantity this week please. Finish all sessions feeling like you could do more, and make sure you have some rest days.

In reply to AJM:

Lillehammer was great, thanks. Highly recommended for a weekend blast - though a long weekend would have been better ( though I'd probably go to Chamonix if I had longer ). A better training week too.

All days - some shoulder rehab.

Mon - Strength. Core warm up, Ring Dips, Rope grip Pullup, Box Step +35kg pack, hanging leg raise.
Tue - AW Stockport. 2x 20 min laps in the tower and some fall practice.
Wed - Strength. More of a general routine rather than a 'Max Strength' routine. Lowered the weight, increased the number of repetitions and exercises.
- Core Warm up.
1 Circuit of 6-10 reps
- Regular Pullup
- Ring Dips
- Box Step +30kg bar
- Overhead Squat 30kg
- Hanging Leg Raise
- Single arm ring pull
Thu - Dry tooling at Rope Race. Still working out a good circuit, but will most likely stop the tooling training soon.
Fri - Rest (evening flight to Oslo). Massive levels of concentration required for first time driving a left hand drive hire car. In the dark. In the snow. For 3 hours.
Sat - Skiing at Lillehammer. Moved to Parallel turns and got on a couple of red runs. Pretty much happy bumbling about on my own now, just need more practice.
Sun - Had originally planned to do some XC skiing but weather was minging, so went back to the slopes at Hafjell for more practice. Fly home. Remembered to drive on the left.

STG

Last weeks goals -


Managed everything apart from the trail runs - so try and get those this week. Continue the strength work and shoulder and hand rehab. Heading to Scotland on Fri, activities will depend on conditions.

MTG

Continue to rehab right hand and left shoulder injuries. Week in Scotland in Feb, conditions permitting. Savage Slit (Winter) (V 6), Fallout Corner (Winter) (VI 7),The Guillotine (V 6), and Gully of the Gods (VI 6) are on the radar.

LTG

Recovery of left shoulder and right hand injuries.

Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)

Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly

Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)

Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics.

The North Face (TD+ 6a)

Learn to ski.

BHAG

The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)

Something on El Capitan.

In reply to AJM:

Morning all

STG = 3x ARC climbing this week. 2x15 mins yoga.
MTG = 7a+ by end of Easter France trip (either France or UK)
LTG = 7b+ pyramid this year, at least 3x7a+, 2x7b,1x7b+. Done plenty of 7as over the last few years.
BHAG = 8a by 40

STG last week = 2x swimming and 2x climbing this week. 2x15 mins yoga. FAIL. 3x climbing and only 1x yoga. No swimming. Bit lazy and work got in the way a bit.

Mon – WW routes. 4+, 2x6a, 3x6a+, 6b, 6b+, 2x6c. Everything clean which was pleasing.
Weds – 15 mins yoga
Fri – WW routes. 5+, 2x6a+, 2x6b+, 6c. O/S on the 2 6b+.
Sun – WW routes 5+, 2x6a+, 6b+, 2x6c, 6c+. All O/S bar one of the 6c.

Didn't get the volume I was hoping but a reasonable week, pleasing to be back O/S the 6cs again and a 6c+. The Sunday was also a session where everyone filmed each other. My feedback was I miss too many footholds, I've had that before although apparently its not as bad as it used to be so I guess some progress.

Have changed the elbow eccentrics I was doing as couldn't seem to get rid of the last of the pain, upped the volume a bit so hopefully it'll help.

ARCing next week, will see how that goes. Would agree that I should really be doing more PE stuff rather than ARC pre France if I can take it, the problem is I'm not sure I can take it without getting injured again at the moment. will see how the ARC goes and if it's going OK try and do a couple of weeks PE pre France, 6 weeks to go now.

In reply to AJM:

Thought I'd also try and tap the wisdom of FC on ARCing. I was going to try 6x10 mins on / 10 mins off. I'd been told that its more the total time on than the length of individual sets, anyone have a view on that? Certainly makes it easier to find partners if it's not 30 mins or so in a go!

Also was planning to do 3 sessions a week, maybe that should also include a session of bouldering / harder routes as well to keep things ticking over?

In reply to Ian Bell:

I had two thoughts on your ARCing. Your 6 x 10 mins on / 10 mins off is about double one of my sessions. Is that much necessary? Also, can you do it on a boulder wall? If so there is no problem with finding partners.

Tony

In reply to AJM:

Thanks mate. Thumb is still weak but it is improving. Managed a BJJ class with no sparring and a bouldering session but it's holding me back a bit still.

Given myself an easy week this week as I was feeling quite run down and tired. Given me chance to sort out some worthwhile goals and targets. I'll keep on refining these more into SMART goals. Diet was pretty rubbish on Monday and Tuesday mainly through lack of planning. I'll work on this.

M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: 2hr walk up the Roaches. 1hr BJJ class (no sparring, thumb still weak).
F: Rest
S: Morn: 2hr walk around Lyme Park with misses and dog. Eve: 1hr bouldering at AWS. Mostly woody and some cave. Near max intensity. Felt weak tonight and my thumb was holding me back a bit especially on pinches.
S: 3hr walk around Flash / Lud's Church with misses and dog.

Current weight: about 144 lbs

In reply to AJM:
OK, lurking for a bit. Decided to start doing this again because I'm currently being lazy at tracking my sessions and it'd be quite nice for people to call me out when I'm slacking (hi Ally). Have just quit a structured plan that I was failing to stick to, so new goal is to mainly climb for fun but throw bits of structure in here and there, hopefully I can find a balance.

Mon - Mini climbing works - 2 sets of 1:1 (10 min) AeroCap and 3 sets of 1:3 (40s reps) AnCap. Didn't quite get the intensity right, wasn't struggling enough on the final reps. Did better previous week. Good venue for this stuff - quiet.
Tues - Rest
Wed - Climbing Works - Static climbing on Wasp circuit (Font 6B-6C) as I strained a muscle in my lower back on the previous weekend and it hurt, so taking it easy. Ticked about half the circuit.
Thurs - Rest
Fri - Climbing works - Back feeling slightly better so worked the more dynamic half of the Wasp circuit, ended up doing the whole circuit except one that's not that hard but pumpy and left it too late in the session. Shite as I've now moved back to Bristol. Oh well.
Sat - Rest
Sun - TCA. Mainly working new orange circuit (up to 6C), did most of the circuit excluding a handful of the harder ones. Also did the green 7A(+?) on the mothership that comes out of the groove. Pleased to do it but dynamic last move to the jug tweaked my back again and am paying for it today. Argh.

So started off sensible and did some endurance but then lost focus and went bouldering. It's not all my fault though, the walls have been so busy that it's making timed stuff really hard to do. Mini works was OK but now I've moved back to Bristol I need to think about logistics. Bloc is better than TCA for endurance stuff due to it being much bigger and often quiet but it's also further away, more expensive and doesn't seem to have a very good scene with actual climbers (lots of studenty/yuppie types in there - staff seem nice enough though). Solution may be to go to TCA at lunch which is now a possibility with me working from home.

Next week - More endurance combined with strength. No wild moves until back is better.

MTG

- Improve endurance and strength without getting injured (more use of open grip positions) and get out on rock whenever possible.
- Lead some trad routes
- Do some DWS

In reply to Ian Bell:

I would definitely maintain the higher end stuff.

As far as aerobic training goes, I'd go as intense as you can to replace as much of the missing power endurance as you can - obviously back off if you think it's too intense given your injury concerns. Tailor the terrain to the sort of thing which will mininise your injury risk.

With that in mind, the shorter stints on the wall can be done at higher intensity, and if you can do minute on minute off stuff at a higher load than that (high end aerobic training) then so much the better.

In reply to biscuit:


Let me know if you are going again, it'd be good to join you. Sounds like you are doing better than em, it took 5 visits before I did all the 6b+

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy, back to the grind this week:

M: am - 4/5M to work in 31:18, pm - 8/9M home in 58:23
Tu: am - 4/5M to work in 31:43, lunchtime - 8M loop and then joined in the end of some of the lads from works road session by pacing a couple of 1k reps ~ 10M total in 67:06
W: am - jog to work 2M, pm - run home at a good pace, 9.5M in 63:32 - finally feeling like I might have got over the race last weekend!
Th: am - 4/5M to work in 30:56, pm - 6M home in 41:38
F: am - 4/5M to work in 31:42
Sa: am - Cross country session with a team mate. Session was 2x3min, 5min, 9min, 5min, 2 x 3:30 (all with 75 secs jog recovery). Was feeling a little hungover and tired and it was hark work. My team mate was going well though so I spent the session watching him go ahead on each rep! ~12M total. pm - 5M loop in 33:03 felt ok
Su: Got up early to drive to Chichester for the wife to run the Chichester 10K. In a strong field she had a good run coming 6th in 35:40 but sadly it was still windy which affected times otherwise a PB was on. I ran before the race, with her on her warm-up, a bit during the race and cooled down with her. Total time 1:46:55 ~15M

Total: ~85M for the week, tough week getting back into it, spent most of it tired but hopefully it'll pay off in a few weeks time at the National Champs.

In reply to AJM:

Seen the photo, looks similar I guess to what Joyce and I are using. Out of interest do you find doible pull ups easier or harder than a 10 second hang with the same weight?
Im midway through a session at the moment and just tried a pair. I managed them with my max hang weight, but only just, and my pullups are a bit short because my head hits the cellar roof...

In reply to Si dH:

I've not tried both, I will next time, but my gut feeling is that the pullups would be harder.

In reply to Si dH:

Edit: previous statement applied to the edge. I can't get close to 2 pullups with 26kg on the 35s.

In reply to AJM:

Morning Campers,

Ta very muchly, Mr M. Just trying to fit stuff in around Daddage and short, focused sessions are working well while the good lady wife is feeding or everyone's asleep. I just have to have all my chores done and be ready to drop everything mid session to change a nappy, fetch a cuppa or do a bath. It's non stop and busy as you like but it's brilliant (he says, typing this with one hand and a snoring sproglet on his lap).

Training Diary WC 0102/16
Strength Cycle/Wk 3
Inspired by Dave!

Monday – Strength session: max hangs on fingerboard. Weakest grip first: 2 finger open hand (18mm pocket) – hangs 1-3 body weight (BW)– 2.5kg for full 10s; hang 4 was for 8s but form not perfect. Grip 2: 35˚ sloper: hangs 1 to 4 BW +16.25kg for 10s – spot on. Finally, grip 3: 4 finger half crimp on 18mm edge: hangs 1 to 4 at BW + 20kg for 10s. A looong session, spread over about 4 hours owing to bambino duties, resulting in 3 warm ups and finishing at about half past eleven at night!
Tuesday – Aero Cap in Supershed: 50m of 1 on:1 off mostly on the neon yellow 5+/6a circuit with the odd diversion onto the hot pink 6b+/6c circuit to improve the pump a little. Mostly 7mins on each rep (approx. 80 moves each set). Resting on the wall still improving.
Wednesday – Recovery.
Thursday - Strength session: max hangs on fingerboard. Weakest grip first: 2 finger open hand (18mm pocket) – hangs 1-2 body weight (BW)– 2.5kg for full 10s. Hang 3 for 5s only as fingers felt a touch ‘strained’. Upped assistance to -3.75kg of BW for hang 4 but things didn’t feel right so left it. Grip 2: 35˚ sloper: hangs 1 to 4 BW +16.25kg for 10s – up from last week, BOOM! Finally, grip 3: 4 finger half crimp on 18mm edge: hangs 1 to 4 at BW + 20kg. Hangs 1-2 at 10s and 3-4 at 9s so will keep this next time.
Friday – Suitably inspired by a Dave Macleod video on UKB entitled ‘Late Night Session’, I did Strength Endurance on the yellow 35 ° 7A/+ circuit in Supershed. Note, I reckon that the whole 25 move circuit would be worth 7A/+ but I’m doing various sections of it (as it’s a loop) from 9 -16 moves. Did 3 sets of 1 on: 3 off with 10 mins rest between sets. Beasted. Just managed 3 sets of 9 pull ups on jugs with 3 mins rest to finish, just a little shy of Saturday!
Saturday – Extended ‘Segment’ Intervals: in the midst of Storm Imogen (although I thought connies were alright. On/ off road. Watch packed part way around as it got too wet so switched to the phone but about 6KM in 30 mins with approx. 150m of ascent. Ace to be out getting rinsed and blown about but no CRs – next time!
Sunday – Recovery – driveto God’s own county (it says here!).
Short Term Goals
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+ - didn’t do any.
Slopers, slopers, slopers, heel hooks, heel to hand matches, getting feet up and onto hand holds following a cut loose on overhangs (and other weaknesses) – no.
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability - nope.
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff - nope. At least one fingerboard session a week – yup, 2. Core stuff: 3 sessions - no core session (doing core for fingerboard warm ups though…)
Write a new training plan – it’s in my head, just need to get it written down.
Add in 2 sessions of ‘pull muscles’ strength training to max hangs sessions – started (sort of), this all depends on if I’m needed for bambino stuff.
3 Core sessions featuring the best of DanDan’s workout and L hangs, knee raises, windscreen wipers and front lever thangs – not so much, no.
Medium Term Goals
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’ (nope – more interested in ‘The Poop’ than ‘The Loop’ just now).
Climb Underhand (7B+) at Almscliff in February Half Term.
Implement and stick to the new training plan.
Weight = 69.85kg

Cha1n and AJM (hello Cha1n, by the way and welcome back to the true UK capital of climbing*), following on from your Aero Cap discourse last week, I saw Mr Randall say on his UKB Q+A the following: 'If you're redpointing 8b+, then it's volume training at around 6b-7a and interval style short block training at around 8a. Those grades somewhat depend on how many years you've training, how good your baseline of endurance is etc etc.' Hmmm, more to think about.

Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX

*UK capital of general waffling on with the odd pause for breath that may be a good time to do some actual climbing, or perhaps just eat chocolate!

In reply to Joyce:
Hey up Joyce, many thanks for the warm welcome back. Already missing the 1 minute walk to the wall! Thanks for the info but I'm already getting a bit despondent with the overwhelming amount of information. I'm thinking of simplifying the sessions down to 'hard boulder', 'mileage boulder', 'hard routes' and 'mileage routes' with the odd bit of core and antagonistic exercises thrown in. Might mean that I don't perform anywhere near my potential but it will mean I don't get stressed out about the overwhelming amount of vague information out there on climbing training!

Is it Feb half-term? Is it time to crush underhand? Good luck if so and hopefully see you at the wall when you get back. x

In reply to cha1n:

I think whilst the specifics are certainly vague the very high level principles are relatively clear. Specificity and training your weaknesses and all those very basic sport science principles, I mean.

If you're trying to simplify things down then I'm all for that but your simplification seems to also involve avoiding the bit which any form of training guidance would suggest you most need to do. You won't really get fitter off the occasional mileage routes session. I dont know whether this is conscious avoidance or unconscious avoidance, which is the only reason I'm posting - to make sure you know yourself which it is.

If you're happy to basically give up on that aspect of training because you just dont like it or wat to do it enough then its for none of us to tell you different. But your main weakness is fitness then at the highest level the principles by which you address that are crystal clear - spend lots of time on the wall in positions and intensities which put their main demands on your aerobic system and it will respond. The details can get confusing but at a high level that's all you need to do, especially when you're at the low end of the improvement curve. The fine detail only really becomes important when you're into marginal gains territory.

I don't want to come across as getting at you by the way - text is horrible for this sort of thing - I guess I just want to highlight that actually once you step back out of the trees the shape of the wood is really clear. Whether you want to address it is entirely your call and its not for me to judge which option you go for.

In reply to AJM:
Hey Andy, firstly, no worries about it sounding like your having a go. Straight to the point is fine with me - I'm an Engineer afterall!

Endurance training justs gets on my nerves because with bouldering, I just go try hard and improve. That's what I've always done, OK I've paid attention to working various styles of climbing (except slabs, so I'm not great on them) but that's it.

With endurance, apparently I can't just go and try hard because I won't get better. I have to clock x amount of climbing hours at y intensity at timed intervals, etc, etc. Surely there's a more broad way of doing training for it? I'm barely ever going to climb a route over 25m that isn't going to be on crimps in various orientations. Can't I just go to the wall and try climbs in this style after warming up and I'll improve? I'd happily do that without fail, it's the faffing about with a watch that irritates me slightly. Perhaps strength training is just much simpler than fitness?

All I know is that for the first time I did 6 months of aerobic work and I still get pumped on stuff after 8-12 moves, almost regardless of intensity (unless we're talking really easy). I know 6 months isn't a vast amount of time but it's a fair amount of time doing a style of climbing that I hate to reap no benefits from it.

In reply to cha1n:


Well, the longest you can operate fully anaerobically is under a minute, so any time over a minute you spend continuously loading your arms will do something for your aerobic system. Just spend chunks of time in the multiple minute region climbing stuff that you find challenging to do (for that time length) and you'll start to get fitter. The longer and easier it is the more it will be fully aerobic.

If you need to get a lot fitter and only a bit stronger then allocate time to do a lot more of the getting fitter and a lot less of the getting stronger.


That will help but bear in mind that you'll climb a lot slower outdoors and the routes are a lot shorter than 25m in most walls. Targeting things specifically for your goal routes would make it more relevant.

The reason you can't just "try harder", if it helps, is that with bouldering when you try really hard it has to drive improvement in strength because there's nothing else your body can do. With aerobic training, your body can "wriggle out" of the stimulus you're trying to give it by just doing things anaerobically instead, up to a point.

In reply to cha1n:

Oh, and for what it's worth I do sympathise - I get most (mentally) out of the sorts of training where I'm trying really hard and fighting against failure. I enjoy ancap, strength training, power endurance, and even the more intense aerocap stuff like 1:1s where I feel in having to fight a bit. I also find continuity fairly dull

To some extent in lucky in that I'm also fairly weak in this more intense area - I benefit from being not very good at the sort of training I enjoy. And of course my trad and enduro sport designs give me ample motivation to do the fitness work.

In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy, bit of a late one this week as it's all been a bit busy with a big assignment due in this Friday, which also means I didn't get much climbing done this week

Mon - good session at the wall trying the new pinks (6b-7b). Got through about half including all the hardest ones apart from the crux.
Tue - rest
Wed - Another good session. Finished off the pinks (minus a couple of the hardest ones) before smashing one of the harder oranges (6c-7c) which I'd been trying for a while, and a couple of the greys (7a-8a), which I was very pleased with mostly just because it shows a progression from my brief post-exam weakness.

Thurs - Sun - living the nocturnal library life until this assignment is done!

Enjoying my bouldering at the moment - there's nothing big coming up to train for at the moment so I don't really know what else to do, it seems too early to start trying to get fit for Flatanger because I feel like I won't be able to maintain it for that long. I am finishing off each session with a fairly intense core routine though, which I feel will be handy with all those knee-bars.

It's interesting to read your thoughts on vagueness/specificity in training. Due to having a very variable schedule from week to week, I've never been able to make a particularly specific training plan, so it's normally a case of 'boulder as hard as I can until a trip comes up, then try and get fit for a few weeks'. In that respect, I probably only really post on Fit Club for the psyche and motivation, because I'd be too embarrassed to post a one-session week!

I would be interested in making a detailed training schedule, but admittedly I've always been sceptical of how much they can actually benefit improvement, beyond simply motivating yourself to train more - or perhaps that's all it is.

Cheers, Jake

In reply to Joughton:
That's how many people did it for many years. Boulder over winter, get strong. A couple of months before routes season, get pumped a lot.

I've tried periodised stuff before but could never get a plan to stick. I've got one sorted now (and I'm busier than ever) that is working. It's more focussing on an aspect for a while. Not just doing exercise X with no room for manoeuvre and feeling like a failure if you miss one session because now everything has been spoiled.

But there's also a lot to be said for working hard when you can. If you try hard every session that's a million times better than doing nothing.

In reply to Joughton:


I find it does what you say, but also if I write down what I need to do it reduces backsliding especially away from the sorts of training I enjoy least. Basically I work my weaknesses better if I've got a training plan that I'm going to fail against if I don't address them.

And I enjoy geeking out about it a bit because again if I've got something written down and precise I probably work harder - its easier to kid myself I did a reasonable fitness session when there's nothing written down to measure my session against. For example I thought I'd done ancap sessions before but I had never felt as debilitated as I did when I followed a plan session for the first time.

In reply to TonyB:

Thanks for the advice on the ARC. Tried 5x10 mins yesterday and it did feel a lot so may experiment with doing only 30 mins or so and then other stuff on top, might make it more interesting as well! doing it on the boulder well won't walk unfortunately as its usually rammed but the autobelay is a possibility (although again often rammed).

In reply to AJM:

Cheers for the advice, will make sure I keep in some more intense stuff rather than just ARCing then, should also be a bit more fun! might try doing some pyramids of routes or similar to break it up.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM. Much appreciated.

STG - Keep doing some climbing

Weight - 12st 12lbs (argh! back up!)

M - Indoor routes (iirc, got to 25)
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - 200 dish tucks
F - S - Rest

I suspect that lack of sleep, diet and a bit of a cold was the issue with the lack of energy. I've been sleeping a lot more and I'm feeling much better. Over indulgence at the weekend caused a upwards blip. Weekends are always my downfall. I eat very well during the week. But at weekends, I just give in, eat bread, drink beer, eat cake, biccies, have a breakfast, don't exercise, have a roast dinner etc etc etc. Especially at the moment as it's so grim out, there's been so few opportunites to get out and do anything. Now to push to keep the weight loss going again.

In reply to Ian Bell:

Just to confirm, I would do the ARCing after your normal session. I'm combining it with systems board now, but basically doing something where I'm powered out but not pumped. I would then have a break and finish with 3x10 mins of ARCing. My ARC is slightly different as I always have an element of split-intensity where I have a small amount of more difficult climbing in each session to get a little fatigued, but I don't think this is necessary.

In reply to Ian Bell:
Interesting reading about your ARC training, especially the intervals of 10mins.

I'm still a novice myself when it comes to training (hence why FCis really useful), so am by no means an expert when it comes to offering advice. For me its the second time I've had a go at periodised training plan (last year in Jan-Apr), and again this year.

However, both times I've used the Anderson brothers book (Rock Climbers Training Manual) as the basis. Each 16 week plan starts with ARC / base fitness. In fact I've just finished my 3 week endurance phase last week.

They recommend much longer intervals, starting with 25mins and working upto 35mins per set, upto 3 sets in each session. This seems to be an important part of why you'd do ARC training, to build long sustained periods of pump and use the time on the wall to rehearse effective rest/recovery, technique, movement drills etc. From what I understand 10min intervals seem more appropriate to work on harder moves/holds and therefore breaking into your anaerobic energy system, which is not ARC.

I "think" they are two quite different things, so interesting to hear from more experienced FC's. Appreciate the ARC I'm talking about can be hard work / boring (for example on the third set of 35mins, the third day you've done it that week!), and also hard on the skin, but aside from a noticeable improvement in fitness and raising my aerobic threshold I also got some other really good things out of the phase, like tightening up my movement and technique, and practicing natural rests and recovery on route when pumped. Personally I used a gently over-hanging wall so always working my arms.

Anyhow, good luck with it, and maybe see you at Cold Mountain on 23rd.

Ps. I've a copy of the book if your interested - currently lent to Sabrina, let me know if you want to borrow - there are also excerpts online relating to ARC

http://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/training-for-rock-climbing/base-fitne...

http://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/09/17/spice-up-your-arc-routine/

Pps. as you can imagine I got to know the auto belays quite well in January!!

In reply to robbiebrookie:

All this talk of training plans is making me keen to get back on one, I can't wait! Good to know i'm not alone in enjoying a well planned training schedule

In reply to robbiebrookie:
Aerocap, which is the 10 minute stuff, is like slightly harder ARC. If you can do it for 10 minutes then contribution from your anaerobic system is minimal, most of the energy is still coming aerobically. They train more or less the same thing.

The American books seem to really like ARC.

From what I gather it's quite hard to judge intensity between nothing and the right level and its time consuming and hard on the skin.

My suspicion though is that if you're resting on the wall and staying on a continuous overhang for 30 minutes you're probably pulsing periods of higher intensity with periods of recovery in rests in which case you're basically doing aerocap anyway as traditional ARC (i forget what rctm says so am relying on the older self coached climber session plans in saying this) shouldn't get you pumped (and therefore you shouldn't be training your ability to rest!)

Edit: the other thing for me is time. Spending 2hrs doing 3x35 plus rests isn't for me as time efficient as an hour of bouldering or fingerboarding or something followed by 3x10 with 10 rests. I guess if endurance was my weakest link maybe devoting that much time to it would seem more worthwhike

In reply to cha1n:


Yeah, there is - go trad climbing!

Avon has excellent trad that will improve your stamina no end and will force to to get better at slab climbing too.

I recommend a crash course in Sea Walls top roping and New Quarry traversing, progressing to some well protected routes on SSB and a final test of pumpy Upper Wall routes.

Before you know it you'll be warming up on Arms Race with 4 bits of gear and running laps on the E5's (or be a gibbering mess run-out 10ft above a rusty peg on main Wall cursing the day you listened to an reminiscing Ex-Bristolian!)

In reply to AJM:

I find long ARC sessions difficult to justify because I can't directly compare it to any part of climbing hard routes (the thing that I would be training for).
At no point on a hard route (or anything above about 6b) do I find a need to move constantly without rests at a level that doesn't generate any significant pump. If you spend 30 minutes redpointing that 7c, it will be because there is a series of good rests interspersed with hard climbing, so doing 10 minute aerocap with on-wall rests to eliminate pump seems much more suitable.
I guess it's kind of like antagonist exercises? As in, you don't tend to do any press ups on a route but doing press ups helps to keep you stronger and injury free so indirectly improves your climbing. Does ARC training improve your aerobic system in a way which helps you on longer routes? Is it a whole body improvement or does capillarisation only occur locally so you have to work your arms in an ARC session? Aside from the opportunity for A LOT of movement practice, it seems like it could be a waste of skin, as well as being difficult to get the intensity quite right, so would you be better off going for a run/ride if you are on a high volume plan to allow for more climbing sessions?

I'm just thinking out loud really...

In reply to Dandan:
I've been doing long sessions on the auto belay. Not just ARC but getting a bit of a pump (lvl 3 out of max of 5) and shaking it off.

What's it done for me? My recovery has improved basically. Last week doing more than a couple of hard moves left me pumped but I could recover on small holds and plough on. That's very handy on most routes.

Overall session recovery should also be affected. One more redpoint go in a session on that project route can make a difference.

I had 4 max goes last night and was noticeable recovering better between goes than previously.

As for the skin issues I found no problem. I was looking at technique while doing long auto belay sessions and if you take each hold under control it seemed to improve my skin not trash it.

All anecdotal and n=1 but works for me.

In reply to biscuit:

Anecdotal or not, improved recovery is good, but would you get the same improved recovery if you spent a few hours out on a bike?
Does anyone know if capillarisation is a whole body thing or specific to the muscles being used most?

If you find it encourages good hand placement and gives you chance to improve technique (which cycling or running obviously won't do) then it sounds useful in several ways.

In reply to Dandan:
Capillarisation is a local effect (according to my biology lecturer, I asked her a few weeks ago). The demands on the overall aerobic system are slight in climbing. Blood is generally at about 97% at its capacity for oxygen carrying ability naturally. There's not even any real need to increase blood flow massively to the small muscles involved in the forearms. However the body will be stimulated to become more efficient in that area at releasing oxygen in response to the increased CO2 and subsequent lowering of blood pH. So it will create more capillary linkages to increase surface area available for exchange and removal of waste. Hence capillarisation.

It's very much a local tissue mechanism as oxygen is delivered to the tissue that needs it most through changes in oxygen affinity with haemoglobin. Running/cycling will increase capillarisation in legs predominantly and overall vo2 max if training hard. Not much use for climbing and no specificity movement wise.

However I always feel better/fitter when I'm running. As long as I'm not doing it so hard I affect my energy systems/recovery for climbing I'll keep doing it.

In reply to biscuit & Dandan82

Interesting discussion on ARC.

+1 for improving my ability to recover during an RP attempt, and increasing my ability to do more in session. My skin does suffer a bit on long ARC but this does make me more mindful of grip type and how to conserve. Guess its also comes back to seperating training from performance which is difficult as we all want to climb what feels hard for us most of the time,...but that's performance, right?

In reply to biscuit:
On a slightly separate note anyone got a copy of this Randall core program? Not for me, as I'm reprogramming my faulty core atm, but would like to take a peek and see what it's about.

In reply to robbiebrookie:
It's very easy to forget the amount of grind top climbers put in. Then you see a professionally filmed, edited, video of them gracefully weaving their way up a 9a and wonder why you can't do it. It's because they've put the work in.

Also ring work, campussing etc can make for impressive training vids. An hour and half session on the auto belay doesn't. So we don't get to see that. I have seen some time lapses of comp climbers doing circuits on boards for ages. That's their aerobic training at their level. But as I say it doesn't make for great you tube hits.

Training with a goal in mind, with short term goals you can meet, keeps motivation up.

Even those who don't train (Sharma) are actually training if you break down what he does to crack a new route. He's just doing it on the route. Not many could fail repeatedly day after day, making no or incremental gains, on the same moves. But he has the mental tenacity, and previous experience that shows it works for him, to plough on.

In reply to AJM:
Sorry for the late reply, I've been feeling a bit overworked and generally stressed.

Sun (because I forgot to put this on the last week) - Routes at Boardroom, in 6a+ - 6c+ range. Almost got a 6c+ clean on lead but wouldn't do the last move, had to climb and clip in . Top-roped at 7b, again not clean, but got all the moves!
Mon - session at Hangar. Worked in V4-V6 range.
Tues - hot yin yoga
Wed - quick finger board session at Hangar, mostly me trying to do stuff and getting bored
Thurs - stretching session at gym + basic functional movements to try and gain ankle confidence (lunges, squats)
Fri - yoga in morning, hangar comp in evening. I'm not great at comps, really struggled with this one and I got a bit frustrated because I never perform (never flash anything) under pressure. Oh well.
Sat - rest
Sun - session at Hangar trying comp problems. Ended up in the cave and got 2 x V4 and 2 x V5. Both go through the roof and normally I really struggle keeping body tension, but it came quite easily. Hurrah. Guess all this core work is paying off!

This week was fairly successful. Not looking forward to writing up this current week, which has been an actual shambles.

In reply to biscuit:

It's certainly an interesting discussion on the merits of ARCing. I agree with most of what has been said. I think the big question is can you get the same effects of ARCing by training at a slightly higher intensity using a 10 mins on 10 mins off approach?

I guess this also comes down to when you can visit the wall and what training facilities you have. I think I'd become very unpopular if I tried 30 mins stints on the circuit board at my local wall. I don't really have anything convenient with an autobelay. The 10 mins on 10 mins off (and variations) really suit me.

In reply to TonyB:

yep would agree with that one, unfortunately doing 30 min stints just isn't really possible for me. The circuits & autobelay are just too busy during the week nights and have other commitments at the weekend which would mean I couldn't do a session both days.

Taking on board what everyone has said maybe I'll stick with the 10 mins on 10 mins off, but up the intensity a little bit and possibly drop the volume a tad. Will see how that goes.

In reply to Ian Bell:
If that's what you can do, that's what you should do. It's better than doing nothing.

Essentially capillarisation will occur during aerobic activity. The anaerobic systems will adapt during pumpy activity (very basic terms there).

On my 30 min sessions I would do vary the intensity but never more than to where I needed to just have a quick shake to recover.

Doing the same but in ten minute blocks is not going to be the end of the world and much better than doing nothing.

In reply to biscuit:

My experience with ARC from a couple of years ago was that I did ~6 reps per week of 30 minute low intensity climbing without stepping off the wall. If I started getting pumped at all I would grab a jug for a shakeout but the general idea was to not do this too often.
I found I definitely got better at ARC but I didn't really achieve my goals that year so it's difficult to know if it helped at all. I was perhaps slightly less strict about other elements of my training later in the year, or maybe the plan just wasn't right.
As anaside, I had picked up an injury to a tendon just before doing the ARC, and I found it helped greatly with recovery, vs doing nothing.

In reply to AJM:

Apologies for the delayed response, appreciate you taking the time to explain.

I've never really committed much of my time to endurance training, so I'll try and do so this season. In the past I've just bouldered during the week and RP'd/worked hard routes on the weekend, so I'm going to make an effort to get on indoor routes now. Maybe climb the routes twice to simulate normal route length. Also hope to try and do some onsight climbing as my grade mismatch between worked/onsight is as much to do with me not trying to onsight anything as much as me being bad at it. I'm going to try this setup this season, minimal timed faff and if it doesn't work out, perhaps look at something more structured next year.

In reply to Ally, definitely keen for trad this year, though maybe not above rusty pegs...

In reply to cha1n:


Weirdly, if I've understood correctly, this sort of thing is not considered especially beneficial any more, something to do with wasted miles. I'm only mentioning it in the hope the AJM or someone else with the knowledge can explain it to me as it seem counter intuitive.

In reply to AJM:

Another week where I didn't get on the plan. Three bouldering wall visits between manic bouts painting and work. Not getting any stronger and getting less fit for my Easter trip....

In reply to Tyler:

I think it's wasted miles if you could lap a route over and over for some time.

Obviously, if you're simulating a 25m route that would equate to something quite hard for you, then I think that would be OK. Also, to a certain extent, I don't call them wasted miles if I enjoy it. Sure, perhaps there's a more efficient way of training something but that's only going to effect the elite is my guess.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM. For Fit Club purposes last week I did a little bit with lock off/lowers on the rock rings (from the floor lying on a boulder mat) and on the pull up bar every day. This week I've added power grips to the prone set up (though too big for my hands so need to file them down) and have tried some other stuff but that's for next week's write up. The trick is balancing frustration at inactivity with doing too much that might jeopardise healing. I don't know enough to know how hard I can push it.

As I'm meant to be in the US skiing already it's been a week of realisations and mourning for things that aren't going to happen - will be out for the rest of the grit season and hadn't got round to any of my trad projects yet, will not be able to continue in the 3 WBLs I was on course to win/place in, and can't consolidate on my sport and bouldering gains.

A lot of STGs falling by the wayside and hard to know how it will touch MTGs yet. Reading lots of stuff including Make or Break, current injury article on UKC and Shauna's broken leg blog from 2012 but I need a bit of structure as it's very hard to see a way forward. I don't want to be whiny and down but very frustrated as I finished 2015 feeling like I was on the verge of making the next big step up.

Any suggestions of one-legged training much appreciated. I can nail my upper body and core fairly systematically lying down without risking hurting/swelling my ankle but need ways to engage left leg and preferably right thigh to minimise the losses over recovery period.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks for doing the stats AJM. Sounds like you made a good choice focusing more on bouldering at the moment.

STG: lead as much as possible in Rjukan this weekend, maybe try a WI4.
Think of MTG and LTG

Weight: 71.7
M: running, core and antagonists
T: bouldering, went well for a long time, ticked a blue (6B-6C circuit) and then went on to the systemboard to flash 6B, 6B, 6B/C and a 6C+ second go (either really soft or just suited me perfect).
W: roped climbing, put up some topropes for a friend, mainly repeats up to 6b, but managed to onsight a new 6b.
T: running, core and antagonists
F: rest
S: indoor bouldering, ticked a 6C in the 60 degree overhang, which I tried for a long time, so pleased with that, otherwise some working on 2 other boulders in the blue circuit.
S: ill

In reply to Tyler:

Honestly I don't know. One of Toms sessions is double laps on routes but theyre harder routes with like 10 minute rest between pairs as power endurance.

I'm not sure about the double laps as aero training thing but I think the intensity of them can vary so much depending on rests and difficulty and stuff that it's a bit like trying to define foot on campus training - it could be almpst anything. It can be power endurance but then for some people doing 10-20 minute sessions of it that's clearly aerobic by then.

Sorry, I know that's not terribly helpful. But I go back to my earlier thoughts about whether you can tell the difference unless you're really chasing marginal gains anyway.

In reply to AJM:

Hi AJM, thanks for doing the stats.

Crappy week for me - my granddad passed away on Weds so I've been knocked for six on the training front somewhat.

Have written off the week to a bit of R&R, will try and get out on a chilled run over the weekend to clear the head and then hit the ground running next week.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks for the thread Andy. Bit late I am....

Mon- 2 mile hilly run

Tues - 2 mile hilly run, 10 min trx (Yep - It's getting counted 'cps I finished with sally up/down leg raises... owww...)

Weds - 2 mile run, 2 hr lead climbing, 45 min circuit training YIKES!

Thurs - 2 mile run

Fri - 2 mile run, 2hrs bouldering on my own, music on, head down and go go go...

Sat - 1 hr bouldering.

Sun - 2 hrs at Depot WBL, 14 flashes on comp problems, left the rest for another day then played on reds. 2 hrs at Notts, had just intended to belay but forgot to not put my shoes on (ooops!), sporadic hard climbs, just kept getting tempted to try stuff!