UKC

Alp me out

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 Kassius 10 Feb 2016
Hi guys and girls
I'm looking at starting out in the Alps. I have some experience in the mountains in the uk although it's limited to ridges like striding/sharp edge, hallsfell and crib goch I've also been to the Himalayas and done the base camp trek and mera I can climb quite well, leading upto E2 5c and blast through 6B's in the gyms no problem. I have a good level of fitness run 10k regularly and weights and climbing after. I'd like to do some ridges in the Alps like the Matterhorn, Eiger and Mont blanc but Im guessing I won't be able to without some form of Alps course. So my first thought would be to suggest if I paid for Flights and accommodation would someone be willing to be my guide and teach me what I need to know or if this is frowned upon what's the best way to do a course is it easier just to fly to chamonix and book there or is it more advisable to book via the Internet and if this is case who's good to go with.
Kind regards
Mark
 pec 10 Feb 2016
In reply to Kassius:
Getting out in what remains of the winter would be a good start. Given your fitness level and climbing ability there's no reason why you shouldn't get up some harder stuff than Striding Edge etc.
Regarding the Alps, you can go on a course if you like or hire a guide but there's no reason why you need to if you do your research and start on easy stuff or team up with someone more experienced. The technical difficulty of the peaks you mention won't be an issue, just stuff like crevasse avoidance and rescue, but you can read up on that, even if you do go on a course.
If you do hire a guide I'd recommend hiring a British one (arranged in advance) rather than a local one in Chamonix or Zermatt. They only seem interested in taking some money off you to drag you up the peak and back down as fast as possible rather than actually teaching you how to climb independantly.
 AlanLittle 11 Feb 2016
In reply to Kassius:

You're clearly fit and technically capable enough on solid rock. Obviously you need to learn the basics of moving on snow & ice, including crevasse rescue, but the key thing for your typical alpine rock ridge is the ability to move quickly & confidently on technically easy but crappy rock* above death drops with sketchy or no belays. Not sure how to learn that without actually doing it.

(Maybe I've spent too much time in the Karwendel)
 James FR 11 Feb 2016
In reply to AlanLittle:

The other things to learn, but again mostly just from experience, is how to choose a route and most importantly deciding when to change your plans or turn back (because of weather or other factors).

You could see if any local climbing clubs organise trips to the Alps, I think that's the best way to get experience.
1
 veteye 11 Feb 2016
In reply to James FR:

I would recommend going on a group trip with someone like Plas y Brenin to a place like Arolla. In the space of a week you will have learned the basic tenets of how to go off into the Alps and have fun whilst being sensible
1
OP Kassius 11 Feb 2016
In reply to Kassius:

Thanks gents going to pyb for a 5 day course
Regards
1
 Penny38 14 Feb 2016
In reply to Kassius:

Hi, I came across this site, It's a non profit organisation.
Lots of different courses in the Alps and the price is cheap!
I'd be booking if I didn't have my heart set on Ailefroide.
https://www.action-outdoors.co.uk/activities/summer/mountaineering
OP Kassius 14 Feb 2016
In reply to Penny30:

Thanks penny unfortunately I've just booked with pyb yesterday and I'm now gutted after seeing there prices. Kudos to you for your outstanding level of physical fitness and body fat percentage.
Kind regards
Mark

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