UKC

Céüse

Right, I'll probably going to Ceuse in a few months and I was wondering what the climbing style is like, and hence what I might be able to train to climb a bit harder there.

From what I remember hearing, there are lots of open handed pockets, so training open hand grip strength might be an option? Maybe open handed inside three, outside three repeaters on a board?

Thanks.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

I would aim to work on general fitness as well as finger strength for pockets. The walk up the hill every day is tough.

The routes range quite a lot in style from slabby and technical to vert/slightly over hanging power endurance to quite steep and powerful (then later less steep and more pumpy). The routes with big pockets often have good kneebars which can help.

Personally I found the slightly steep 7bs much easier than the slabbier 7as but I think it depends a lot on personal style/preference.

In reply to Rachel Slater:


Thanks. Sounds like I need a bit of everything, and maybe a knee-pad!


I suspect steep 7bs for me too.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

If you want to do the routes on the cascade sector there are several classic pitches (eg. Vagabond) that begin with a 45 degree roof so you might want to train that angle. Aside from that there are all angles and styles though overhanging climbing is the norm on the better routes. I didn't do any slabs when I was there - I think they're mostly away on the LH side.

Agree the walk in is pretty hard at first. A few tips: first go up early to avoid walking up in the heat of the sun. Secondly plan on stashing your climbing bag in the woods at the top somewhere so you don't have to lug it up with you every day. Makes the walk far more pleasant. Thirdly if the cascade is still flowing its a good source of clean water so you can fill up bottles from there rather than lug them up from below. It's easy to get dehydrated if its warm when you're there because you sweat a fair bit on the walk in, then maybe don't have that much water with you etc.

The crag is horse shoe shaped so you can plan your climbing day by avoiding the sun (or not if its cold). Roughly, if you want shade, then Cascade sector in the morning, Berlin Wall in the afternoon (there are many more sectors than these though).

In reply to stp:

Thanks. I'll probably just try to get fit at the wall, not sure my body can handle too much more strength training after months on plastic anyway. Although it's always tempting to try to get a bit stronger. But I didn't realise that it got as steep as 45 degrees, assumed it would be a bit more like the climbing at Verdon or Buoux.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

I recall some spaced bolts, maybe make sure the head is together too.

In reply to Kevster:


Don't normally mind so much on steep stuff, but I have good days and bad days.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

The thing I've found makes the biggest difference at ceuse is being able to recover on a jug. The typical style is several hard moves (often on pockets), get to a jug and shake out. Repeat. And repeat. If you can get a lot back at these rests then it makes a huge difference. I would recommend making a short circuit loop (approx 15 moves) which you find really difficult to complete once, returning to a mediocre hold. Shake out on this hold for 30 seconds or so, then try to do another lap. After a while you should find you can get a lot back at the rest, and complete several laps (time to make a harder circuit).

When are you planning on being in ceuse? I'll be there with my partner for the first 2 weeks of Aug, perhaps see you there.

In reply to Lhod:


I find that is often the difference between indoor climbing and outdoors. Outdoors, even if you don't get a jug, you can shake out, swap hands and chalk up fairly regularly. Indoors, they don't seem to allow much in the way of rests.

I've heard talk of pockets, which is why I was thinking open hand strength might be important.


I've done this kind of thing on the circuit board before, and it worked well. Boulder problems between rests seem to be common on limestone routes generally.


Last 2 weeks of May, sorry. Can't wait.