UKC

Not got the exact dimensions to hand but I fancy taking my BD amperage (?) out for a short tour . The skins I bought off here don't fit ( must get round to flogging them ) but I have some old ish coltex ones that I think I can make work . the skis are 130 mm at the waist ( I think ) the skins about 80 mm . Can't see why not ?
Edit : ( tomorrow , and won't have time to sort new out till next week)

In reply to mike123:

If you can get a nice tight fit length wise whilst it won't be quite as effective it should work just fine. Enjoy the tour!

In reply to mike123:


It'll work, on flat ground and if when switchbackin' there's a lot of snow.

The old trick was to split the skin in half length wise (but not the tip nor the tail) and then when gluing it on, so that the skin follows the edges (like with cut to fit skins). Makes 'em nicer to go steeper switchbacks.

In fact, you can actually buy these split skins ready made these days (for fat freeride skis).

In reply to mike123: you would be ok on flattish stuff but can't think anything steep would be fun as you won't have any skin near the edge so no hold at all.

In reply to mike123:
I put skins for a 98mm ski onto my 118mm skis and it was a nightmare when the going got steeper. Like Phil said above fine on flat ground though.

Your options are to go straight up or bring ski crampons.

In reply to JuneBob:

I borrowed some old narrow skins for my 112mm under foot Whitedot Preachers, slit then down the middle and attached each half just in board of the edges, worked reasonably well on a climb, but sometimes I had to stomp down to engage the skins under foot due to the extra wide shovels and tails not gripping. The preachers have a trad camber, this wouldn't be such a problem on rockered skis

In reply to mike123:

You'll find yourself sliding backwards on anything but flat ground. If they're old skins do what HeMa suggests and cut them down the middle, then when putting them on the skis pull the edge of the skin over to the inside of the metal edge. Alternatively if you don't want to slit the skin, you can put them on the ski in an S shape so that they alternatively touch one side then the other of the ski - not as effective but a LOT better than just putting them down the middle.

In reply to mike123:

Thanks all. Not so keen to cut the skins as , although I haven't checked yet , I think there a fair bit of life in the and as I'll get something "proper" for the job soon. I'll try Jon s S method . Won't be anything steep .

In reply to mike123:
Lay them on the ski in a zig-zag pattern going as close to the edge as you can as many times as you have length / stretch for.

Not ideal but makes a remarkable amount of difference.

edit - just noticed you got this advice already.

In reply to mike123:

This photo shows the effect you are aiming for when splitting the skin in two, should you decide to do that:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51fKPiB80bL.jpg

In reply to mike123:

I didn't really express myself too well. It's more down to the hardness of the snow - even on a gentle angle if you're trying to skin diagnally up it they'll slide back. You can of course combat this to some extent by flattening your skis but it's hardly very efficient. If the snow's deep then they'll cope better.

In reply to DaveHK:
Where did you get that picture me ? Do you know my wife ? B@£&();:d .

In reply to mike123:

I've done this on a pair of skis ~105mm and skins cut for skis about 65 at the waist.
It works fine on easy slopes and in soft snow. As soon as the snow gets firm, or you have to skin up a steeper hill on a traverse it becomes a total nightmare and you'll spend most of your time sitting in the snow screaming with rage (well, I did anyway) before having to walk.

I've never tried cutting the skins, that it supposed to work reasonably well. Otherwise you may have to bootpack sections that others can skin, depending on the conditions. If you're touring in the UK then having to walk a bit isn't going to be a major problem.