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Stanage Advice

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Callum_Pettigrew 12 Feb 2016
Hi,
Was just wondering about top roping at Stanage. Are there any bolts at the top for anchoring to? And how frowned upon is it?

im an experienced indoor lead climber, however have only been outside a few times (always under instruction). I live close by to stanage so it seemed like a great place for me and a few mates to start off. Problem is, i dont have any nuts or cams yet.....( i do have slings and quick-draws)
which was why i was hoping for bolts at the top to anchor to for a top rope?

Also i have read all over the internet that other climbers hate seeing people using a top rop...? is this actually the case? obviously ill try not to hog the rutes for any longer then we needed

cheers
 climbwhenready 12 Feb 2016
In reply to Callum_Pettigrew:
No bolts (and there never will be). Normal state of affairs is to set up a trad anchor. If you are competent in anchor building but don't have the gear, on a lot of routes your best anchor is a big boulder with a sling or (more commonly, due to size of boulder) a short length of static rope.

There is nothing wrong with top-roping, go out and have fun! The relevant etiquette is not to hog the route for longer than you normally would if you were leading and seconding.

Edit: if, however, you are not competent in building a trad anchor, go and get competent before you build the thing your life depends on.
Post edited at 12:39
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In reply to Callum_Pettigrew:

Hi Callum, Top roping is accepted practice but be sensitive to other users who may want to lead the route you are on. Also, be sensitive to the environment, protect the rock by using rope protectors where appropriate.

There are no fixed anchors at the top but there are many routes that will only require slings and crabs and rigging rope to set up a top rope. others you might need nuts and hexes. it does depend.



 Paul16 12 Feb 2016
In reply to Callum_Pettigrew:

Rather than go to a trad crag and top rope, why not head to a sports crag where your indoor skills cross over quite easily? You won't have quite the same outlay on gear either.

You just need to learn how to tie in at the top ( or from a bolt/staple if that disco leg gets out of control )
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Callum_Pettigrew 12 Feb 2016
In reply to climbwhenready:

Thanks, now i wont be expecting any when we get there haha.
iv set up anchors before and had instruction on them, so my groups combined knowledge should suffice

there is 4 of us that will be going so hopefully we wont be hog the routes too much,
but because we'll still be getting to grasps with the whole outdoors thing, we'll probable look for the quietest section.
dont suppose you know if it gets busy this time of year?
In reply to Callum_Pettigrew:

half term next week - if the weather is good it'll probably be busy.
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 climbwhenready 12 Feb 2016
In reply to Callum_Pettigrew:

If the 4 of your have been on a route for a bit and are starting to feel like you're hogging it you can always offer to pull the rope, let someone lead it and then go back onto it. As long as everyone plays nice, everyone is happy.

It's the groups of 25 scouts with 10 topropes along the entire buttress that really p*ss people off.
 Offwidth 12 Feb 2016
In reply to Callum_Pettigrew:

Hi Callum.... top ropers have as much rights as anyone so the key issue in that game is to be kind to others and the environment: try not to monopolise a route, use rope protectors, keep your shoes clean and dont try something so hard you end up flailing.

Stanage in Febrary is usually miserable for roped climbing btw... try Wharncliffe unless the weather is unusually nice.
 Neil Williams 12 Feb 2016
In reply to Callum_Pettigrew:

No bolts, so you will need to learn how to construct a top anchor properly. You may wish to take a course in doing this if you don't have anyone who will show you on multiple occasions how to do it safely.

If you use a busy route for no longer than it would take for someone to lead it and someone else to second, most people won't have a problem. If anyone complains, tell them that's your intention. If they still complain, ignore them.
 deacondeacon 12 Feb 2016
In reply to Callum_Pettigrew:
Youll defo find a quiet corner of Stanage, just walk left until no one else is about.

I'd follow offwidths advice though, go to Wharncliffe. It's beginner friendly, the belays are friendly, it's less likely to be freezing and you'll be the only people there so you can relax and take all the time in the world.
Have a good time
 deacondeacon 12 Feb 2016
In reply to Callum_Pettigrew:

And in all my years I've never seen anyone get slated for top-roping. Don't worry about it.
 ipfreely 21 Feb 2016
In reply to Callum_Pettigrew:

Lots of people start off outside by top roping, go have a crack .... or arete ..... or slab
 Rog Wilko 22 Feb 2016
In reply to Callum_Pettigrew:

You could try going to Yarncliffe as it's wooded and with a few slings anchoring to a couple of trees should be a doddle. It also has the advantage of being sheltered, though by the same token the rock stays damp for longer
 Rog Wilko 22 Feb 2016
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Here's the link:
Yarncliffe
 Rocknast 22 Feb 2016
In reply to Callum_Pettigrew:

Yeh Yarncliffe is a good shout actually mate! The notorious ants won't be there this time of year and all the heavy rain we've had should've rinsed away a lot of the sand.
 Offwidth 22 Feb 2016
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Yarncliffe is poor in the winter months as the sand gets washed down (caused by ground erosion at the top from over-use by tr groups). Wharncliffe is the best place.
 Jim Walton 23 Feb 2016
In reply to Callum_Pettigrew:

There are lots of places along Stanage that are a little bit more remote if you would prefer to be on your own. Crow Chin jumps to mind, though anywhere along the Stanage North End will have you far from the madding crowd.

This has its positives and negatives. There are people who feel a little intimidated when learning and don't like to feel as if they are being 'judged' by those around. On the flip side, learning in isolation can have you learning techniques that are not best practice.
 Howard J 23 Feb 2016
In reply to Callum_Pettigrew:

Something to watch out for when anchors using the big boulders at the top - some of them move! It's not unknown for belays to drop out when someone stands on a boulder and it tips.
 Offwidth 23 Feb 2016
In reply to Jim Walton:

Crow Chin hasn't been quiet for decades (and is an annoyingly long walk to discover that fact), the slabs on Stanage North with the best lower grade routes hold damp and Stanage in general is too cold for most new trad climbers at this time of year.

I'd add that learning at the Popular End and following the average practice there can lead new climbers into trouble. There are people on this site who will help new climbers for free and plenty of instructors who are good value.

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