UKC

Little bit late and absolutely not because I completely forgot that I said I would do it...
I've numbered this week at 466, looking at the last few weeks of posts, we jumped 100 weeks somewhere, i'm open to corrections but think 466 is right.

Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=634608
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Psyche video of the week: I need suggestions, I don't watch much unless its on UKC in which case you've probably all seen it already...

Posters:
Emily - Falling off slabs is a completely reasonable fear! Any action on what food you ate this week?
Stevemarkperry - Hows that ankle? Any thoughts on the future of BJJ?
Robin Brooke - Sounds like the fingerboarding is going well, stay safe! Your core/strength session looks pretty significant, do you enjoy it?
alexm198 - Looking forward to hearing about your week back on the winter wagon
Dandan82 - Re-broken yourself yet? It's about time...
hms - TAPER MORE! Sorry, I got carried away, have you left for sunnier climes/climbs yet?
JayK - You seemed to train though the lurgy pretty well, did things improve this week?
Si dH - Hanging on rafter pinches with 8kg sounds incredible! I tried and failed to do this when I was fully fit and climbing hard, i'm pretty gobsmacked, I must just be weak on pinches! How wide apart are your rafters?
Nick Russell - Did the foot pain subside? I'll be waiting with interest to see what you get on in Margalef as I will be out there myself in 5 weeks
AJM - So have you have had a good, restrained, rested, tapered, well fed week?
cha1n - Do you have a new-found love for endurance training yet? Lots of suggested changes to your training this week, how many did you manage to implement?
flopsicle - Well done on the BL score, what is your lead project? (apologies if i'm being ignorant and you've already mentioned it)
James Moyle - How did your half-term pan out? My (teacher) wife always has grand plans and then ends up being so busy she only manages to do half of them!
The Ex-Engineer - What can I say, what a week! Tough one to follow?
Ian Bell - What is stopping you from doing the Yoga, is it just getting up the enthusiasm to attend a class or are you doing it at home?
biscuit - I hope the interviews went well? Are you planning to lose 0.5% bodyfat just this week or over a slightly longer period?!
hokkyokusei - Recovered from that race yet?
mattrm - Getting lazy is a vicious circle that can be hard to break, maybe you need a new target? An event or a holiday perhaps?
Just Tintin - Did you work out a boot support system? How long until it is off?
Humperdink - The knee incident sounds gruesome, glad you seemed to get away lightly though.
Tony B - Sign of the Vulcan is on some pretty smooth crimp edges so climbing it in the damp is probably not ideal, well avoided! Based on the conditions i'd say you had a stormer, good stuff.
Curious Yellow - That sure is a lot of work, fingers crossed for some more quality free time soon
Tyler - Not much time between now and easter to fit in a plan, probably a good idea to hold off until afterwards.
0.5viking - This winter climbing stuff sounds dangerous! Good bunch of routes there, well done for surviving the ice-falls!
planetmarshall - RE Kalymnos, if the 10 deep queue to DNA puts you off, try Elefantenhimmel (7a) on the other side of the cave, even steeper but on the grade
Joyce - Lots of 'nope's in your STG's but you still seemed to have a full week of good stuff, you are my weekly dose of psyche

Lurkers:

Joughton
xbraddersx
Ally Smith

In reply to Dandan:

Cheers Dan. Will post properly later, but briefly, I reckon my rafters must have better friction than yours. I don't think my pinch strength is particularly good. They are unpolished/sanded (except a little light sanding I did to remove splinter potential) and over 100 yrs old...the wood is fairly coarse. They are ~5cm wide and approx shoulder width apart, or very slightly narrower.

In reply to Dandan:

Proper post later, just getting in there early to see if anyone on here wants to share the drive/fuel to Scotland either of the next two weekends. Exile, Ally, still lurking? Ideally, I'd like to go with someone as strong/stronger then me for something around V/VI(/VII?)

In reply to Dandan:


Cheeky bugger. Things are still on an upward curve, the tennis elbow seems really under control now, I've even been able to climb hard enough to induce a little bicep/elbow overuse ache and although I know I can't completely climb through it, a degree of conditioning seems good to keep it under control, so hopefully that will not get worse as I increase the intensity.

M: Climb indoor 11 routes up to 7a, last week I was confident that the 7a would go, I just didn't expect it to go quite so easily, I cruised up it so comfortably that I did a 6c+ immediately after too! Pump was an order of magnitude ess than last week, really pleased.
T: Bodyweight antagonists, the STG was a 10 second free handstand, I managed to smash out 15 seconds! The book talks about consistency being the goal rather than a single high achievement, so I might try for 10, 10 second free handstands next week
W: Climb indoor 14 routes up to 6c, touch of bicep overuse ache in the left arm, but was able to drop the level and climb through it, I really think it mostly needs conditioning out.
T:
F: DIY club more endless woodwork painting
S: Boulder at Red Spider; bit of bicep ache but again I managed to keep to a sensible level and climb through it, I couldn't resist a V5 on the comp wall and surprised myself by getting it second go! Tennis elbow felt well abused but not damaged and as usual seemed to respond well and felt good the next day.
S: Bodyweight antagonists; consolidated with another 2, 10 second free handstands! L-sits and tuck planche also felt solid but I think my flexibility is going backwards, touching toes is tough again!

I also planed down the sticky bouldershed(tm) door so my wife can get in there during the week, she had her first coaching session on Thursday, loved it and is keen to start training ASAP, i'm really glad she is so keen to improve and it can only be good for me in terms of psyche.

Last weeks STG
Touch my toes with my second knuckles (might take a few weeks) - No chance, can't really touch my toes now!
3 climbing sessions, 7a clean. - TICK! Easy money
Hold freestanding handstand for 10 seconds. - TICK 15 seconds! woop

New STG
Investigate tight calves as cause of rubbish flexibility, possibly pay for cheap sports massage to batter them
3 climbing sessions
There's a soft 7b at warwick wall with my name on it...
Hold freestanding handstand 10x10 seconds

MTG:
Stay healthy for Margalef and tick 10 '7' graded climbs while there. (seems fair)

In reply to Dandan:


Cheers! Actually DNA was pretty quiet when I took a look last year, as was the whole Grande Grotte area, but It's good to have recommendations.

Mon - No climbing partner today so went for a solo of Comb Gully (IV 4). The walk in was good training, and the climb itself pretty friendly.
Tue - Lousy weather, so rest day.
Wed - Waterfall Gully (IV 4). Had thawed quite a bit, so a bit of a slushfest. Abbed off at 60m.
Thu - Route Major (IV 5). Fantastic day in the Cairngorms, really outstanding mountaineering route. Took more time than it should, though, with a few gear malfunctions resulting in me climbing an ice pitch with one crampon...
Fri - Feeling a bit drained after previous day, but had some mixed climbing training with Dave MacLeod as part of the Fort William Mountain Festival. Picked up a few tips for my own training ( including ideas for a home training facility...before the end of the year maybe...? ).
Sat - Ill. Drove home.
Sun - Rest day.

STG

Last weeks goals -

Start a new transition period, with some general conditioning and aerobic work. Figure out some benchmarks to chart my progress over the next year. Weekend in Scotland if conditions permit.

MTG

Continue to rehab right hand and left shoulder injuries. Savage Slit (Winter) (V 6), Fallout Corner (Winter) (VI 7),The Guillotine (V 6), and Gully of the Gods (VI 6) now looking unlikely before the end of the season, though I'm heading up again at the weekend so we'll see how it goes.

LTG

Recovery of left shoulder and right hand injuries.

Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)

Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly

Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)

Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics.

The North Face (TD+ 6a)

Learn to ski.

BHAG

The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)

Something on El Capitan.

In reply to Dandan:


Thanks DanDan82!
Half Term was reasonable. Didn't do quite as much as I would have liked to have done, but had a good family week.

Monday - Walking in Brecon Beacons with my nine year old daughter, Neve. We climbed up to Corn Du and Pen y Fan from the Storey Arms so not an especially long route. A beautiful sunny albeit windy day with snow from about halfway up. Lots of people out on the hills. The great news is that Neve loved her first mountain experience!

Wednesday - New trainers and a quick run to test them out. 5.2 km flat. Fastest run this year - 4:40/km

Saturday - CYCLE - 52km, 720m ascent. Very windy conditions.

Sunday - RUN - 12.3 km, 190m ascent. Legs felt a bit heavy.

STG
Running and Cycling, metres of ascent: In order to build climbing fitness for the Alps, I'm going to use the Strava challenges as monthly targets. I completed both of these for January but probably going to miss them this month. Run - 600m/1500m Cycle - 2000m/4500m

MTG
Weight: A smidge under 12st 6 so down about 1/2lb this week. Total weight down 11lbs since Christmas. Target is to get down to a consistent weight between 12st and 12st 3lb

LTG
Alps: Dates now confirmed for July 8th - 23rd. However, unfortunately, I've lost my partner! If anyone fancies some PD/AD routes in the Chamonix/Zermatt region between these dates, let me know!!

In reply to Dandan:

Dan, sounds like great news if your better half is also keen! But don't let her over-cook her elbows

Goals:
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Jan/Feb: Jerry's Traverse (Cratcliffe) and at least 3 other grit 7Bs. [so far T Crack, A Case of Mistaken Identity and Monochrome. Jerry's Traverse is probably out due to the left shoulder problems.]
March: Do Crazy Horse (7B) and either Magic Bus or La Barre Fixe (7B+) in Font. After Font, do Moffatrocity (7B+) if it's dry, or Wright's Traverse (7B) if Moff is still wet.
April: Moffatrocity if not done in March, then Eastwood Traverse (7B+). Start doing some limestone or Churnet bouldering in the evenings again once the clocks change.
May/June/July: Do a few more Font 7Bs on limestone or sandstone, and do Arch Enemies (F7c+)
August: Continue bouldering (more limestone F7B/+s) and, if Arch Enemies went well, get on an F8a.
September: Do the F8a.
October: Once finished (for good or bad) with the F8a, try Paint it Black (Ft7C) at Blackwell Dale.
November/December: Finish off Paint it Black if it feels doable and stays dry for long enough. Then get on the grit, goals being a Ft7B+ and maybe try Tetris (Ft7C).


M: Rest
T: Core session in the morning, 4 sets as in previous weeks. Max hang session on fingerboard in the evening. 4 x 10 seconds on each of 18mm edges ie good pockets with an AA battery in the back (bodyweight +27.5kg), small 2 finger pocket (+0 kg) and ceiling pinch (bodyweight +8 kg). Then did a lot of shoulder rehab and stretching exercises afterwards.
W: Lots of shoulder rehab exercises & back stretching again.
T: Max hang session on fingerboard. Similar to Tuesday but swapped out the pinches again for the 35 degree slopers (slight improvement at bodyweight + 29.8kg) as the pinches had slightly irritated my shoulder I think. Also added some weight for the first time on the small 2 finger pockets: bodyweight + 4.5kg. Really pleased how quickly I have started feeling stronger on that hold as bodyweight felt really tenuous and tweaky only 2 weeks ago.
F: Rest.
S: Rest.
S: Rain meant no play outside so did another fingerboard session. Decided to mix it up by trying max weight for 2 pull ups as per Andy’s workout, rather than max weight for a 10 second hang. Overall I found the pull ups very slightly easier than the 10 second hang, however it’s worth saying that my head hits the ceiling when my nose is level with the hold, so they aren’t quite full pull-ups. I did 4 sets of 2 pull ups with each of the 18mm edges (bodyweight + 29.9kg), small 2 finger pockets (bodyweight + 5.7kg), 35 degree sloper (bodyweight + 27.6kg).

Also been doing a smaller set of shoulder rehab exercises most days in addition to the above.

Weight last Sunday night was 11st 1.5lbs.

Good week fingerboard-wise. Pull-up session today was interesting. I think I basically conclude that the pull-up motion doesn’t add to the difficulty (except a little bit on the slopers), for me it just makes it slightly more important to start off in the perfect position, especially on the slopers and small pockets. I’m still limited by just how long I can hang those holds with that weight for before my fingers uncurl. On this basis I think there’s probably still more mileage in me doing the 10 second hangs than the 2 pull-up routine. Any thoughts? Andy/Ally – what was the idea behind the 2 pull-up routine in the first place?
By the way as per Andy/Joyce’s post last week, my bodyweight is 70kg so +29.9kg translates to 143% of bodyweight.
I’m going to keep up the max hangs this coming week (with a possibility of tempting myself out with the lantern on Tuesday if I feel good). One day out next weekend or if it’s wet then I’ll tentatively try an indoor bouldering session. If shoulder is ok after that point I’ll do the same the next Tuesday, then rest. I’ll be in Font for a week from 2 weeks today.

Si

In reply to Dandan:
Cheers mate. Yeah, it was end of term tiredness lurgy I think. Felt better after a rest on Sunday, although felt really tired until around Thursday this week. Did my first climbing outside since August this week. Nothing better than starting with Parisellas Cave right?!

M- Fingerboard session. Same as last weeks. Left arm is still feeling much stronger than the right.
T- Aero session. Made a really good circuit on the steep wall which links a V5 into a long v3 down climb into longish pumpy V5.
W-Rest
T-PARISELLAS! Wahey. Outdoors. Kind of. Spent about an hour and a half trying to work out how to climb the Cave RH V4 (as it was in the sun in the morning!). Finally got it and managed to warm up before moving onto RA. Did the end a few times. Then from half way. Then from the crimps. Then from the start. Then kept doing it until I fell off, which was a lot (fortunately more people turned up with extra pads so I didn't keep falling on the floor.) After about 3-ish hours I started playing on the start moves of Hatch but I couldn't do them, think I was tired. So I started working Left Wall High. Pillar Start, then Flake, then Shot Hole. Tried it from the start but pumped out at the rest (back to old times). Took it as a sign to stop.
F-Rest
S-General Bouldering. Felt pretty weak which I assume was lag from Thursday.
S-Aero. Started with a bit of pottering before foot-on campussing. 20 minutes of minute on minute off. Full on burn, desperately holding on at the end. Although I didn't fail on any attempt.



What do people think with foot-on campussing? Is it best to keep it minute on but reduce resting time (1min on 1min off then 1min on 45secs off etc.) or increase hang time (2min on 2 min off then 3min on 3min off etc.)??

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dan,

Last week was been a bit of a struggle. I definitely felt better after being ill, but still haven't been able to shake the cough. I managed to get some training in, but recovery times seemed slow and I felt really sleepy.

Mon - Portland (see last weeks post)
Tue - AnCap fingerboard session (pleased with this) followed by 3/5 of a continuous climbing session
Wed - rest
Thurs - Excellent session on double laps of 7a. I made real progress on the 35 degree wall. On my first set I completed the link for the first time, on the second set I fell on the last move of the second lap and on the third set I fell early on in the second lap. Pretty Ok on the double laps on the 10 degree wall, with a one fall on the last lap of each of the sets.
Fri - driving South to see family
Sat - We had a day on Portland but conditions were terrible. It was warm but humid. There was a strong westerly so we went to the cuttings but the rock felt really damp. I did some routes up to 6b, but we weren't really feeling it so left early. I don't think I was being feeble as there were only two other parties there and they were climbing the really easy stuff. I'm pretty sure all the locals knew better and kept away.
Sun - rest

Goals for this week. To get back to regular training schedule.

STG -
Training goals - to complete before Font (first week in April)
I really want the perfect double 7a session. 3 sets of 2x7a on the 35 degree wall (no falls) followed by 3 sets on the 10 degree wall. I think this is getting there, but I'd like to do it before Font.
I haven't really set goals on the fingerboard. I'm still working out what it should be on the AnCap and haven't been pushing the finger strength yet. I'd like to be able to hang the central slot in the beast maker for 10s each arm with a 90 degree lock. Currently I can do this with a counter weight of 1.75 kg.
I'd also like progress on the systems board. What I'm doing is high end AnCap. It probably involves some very minor edits to the problems to put in slightly worse holds. I will spend some time experimenting here and get something more clearly defined (even if it only makes sense to me).
Outdoor goals
I don't have much free time in the calendar, so I'm going to be really vague and just say get out on rock. I think it makes sense to prioritize gritstone bouldering as my sport climbing is going fine but isn't going to help me in Font.

MTG - Redpoint 8a in the Peak. The training programme is set towards a long slow peak in late spring.

In reply to Dandan:


Fack, computer just crashed after 20 minutes typing a reply. Doing this in Word with autosave on from now on! Certainly no love for endurance training indoors (though I really enjoy routes outdoors) and the crowds seem to be conspiring against me doing anything structured at all.

Mon - Commute to Sheffield for work. Long day.
Tues - Another long work day followed by works session. Ticked last wasp on wasp circuit (around 6C+ I think, then 8 murples (6C-7B circuit). They may have all been lower end but I can live with 9 6C's for a volume session. Push-ups, pull-ups, stretched.
Wed - Commute back to Bristol, long day on site, 12.5h work day, much of it sat on the floor in a shipping container trying to code.
Thurs - Knackered, feeling ill. Need my anti-histamines but f%ck up at doctors means I have to wait.
Fri - Attempted lunchtime hit at TCA. Parking full, so drove to Bloc. Parking also full but couldn't be bothered to move on again, risked it (car full of worthless stuff on show but didn't want to risk thieves taking a punt). Realised it was half-term hence walls being busy with annoying children who were full of joy, specifically for ruining any chance of me having a structured session. Did blue 7A (soft) on comp wall, yellow 6C (tough), pink 6B+, then a bunch of crimpy stuff on the vert walls on the purple circuit. About 5, all felt around 6C/+. Snuck a 3 set (4 rep) ancap session in. Timing off occasionally due to annoying people doing a million laps in a row.
Sat - Rest, fell asleep early and then couldn't sleep on the evening. Balls.
Sun - Bloc with Joyce's family and crew (very cute babbers there Joyce). Despite feeling knackered initially, a coffee sorted that out. Messed around on topout boulder problems but the harder yellow ones didn't flow at all, so couldn't be bothered to work them, I'm used to the climbing works standard of route setting now! Tried a pinchy/slopey, powerful problem opposite, couldn't do the last move. Partially scared, partially knackered. Moved around to comp wall; White 7A+, Blue 7A (soft) repeat first try, women's pink blocfest final (6C? Guess) flash, Purple 6B++ arete flash, campussed the easy ones then push-ups, pull-ups, stretched.

Hard week on the work front but managed to get a training effect I think. Finger joints and pulleys were feeling worked (not injured) after a week weeks of focus on the fingery stuff at lower grades (ego hit), so nice to switch back to power today to give the fingers and ego a rest.

Hope that with half-term over and done with that I can sneak some endurance work in during a few lunchtimes this week, though work workload is very heavy again atm.

Last week:
- Shorter sessions strength training to help avoid injury (sessions are currently too long imo and risking overuse injuries to pulleys), ideally on woody or crimpy (not dirt crimps), steep boulders. Shorter than previously but reckon I can shave some more time off and keep the quality high
- At least one session on endurance, ideally two. Yes, but AnCap only
- Re-introduce core and some form of pull-ups into sessions.Pull-ups yes, but lower back a bit iffy, will climb some steep stuff and leave core for now as it wrecks my lower back, maybe I'm doing something wrong?!
- Stretch and push-ups after every session.2/3
- Restart Antagonistic exercises.Nope

This week:
- Short doses of high quality strength work before endurance on woody or suitable boulders.
- Two sessions on endurance, 1:1 aerocap on circuits if possible.
- Continue with pull-ups, stretchinmg and push-ups after every session (core when lower back plays ball).
- Restart Antagonistic exercises.

MTG

- Improve endurance and strength without getting injured (more use of open grip positions) and get out on rock whenever possible.
- Lead some trad routes
- Do some DWS

Thanks for doing the thread Dan. Here is a Psyche video suggestion - I'm dreaming of Verdon later in autumn
http://assets.nationalgeographic.com/modules-video/assets/ngsEmbeddedVideo....


Its a routine I got from a PT several years ago and use at home, replaced my pilates. Happy to email it if you want. Its a good strength & core work-out for me - I enjoy the results of it when I do it enough with enough intensity!! Although just decided to buy some cheap TRX-like straps/rings and am going to try that using body weight as I'm thinking I can take this in the van for my road trip along with an 'awesome woody cliff board' (both pretty small / compact and can set-up from a tree/branch) to try and stay strong whilst travelling.

Periodized training, week 6 of 16 (currently in Strength phase) great first fingerboard session of week, well rested + tried really hard + increased the hangweight + added core work. Second session not as good, mainly as didn’t have enough rest so quality went down. Two fun leading sessions, got a bouldery crimpy 7a+ lead project nice and a first! Sneaked a couple of swims in. Feeling some finger strength gains on 3 finger and pinches and half crimp which is great! when this phase ends suspect I'll want to keep one fingerboard a week going to try and maintain/continue improving.

M: fun leading at castle. 7a repeat, 7a repeat, 6c+ off twice, 6c onsight, 6c onsight. Warm-ups 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6a+

T: outdoor swim 1.8km

W: repeater fingerboard session + core. increased hang weight (2-3 kg) on: 4 finger, 3 MRP 1P open, ¾ Pad half crimp, and Sloper 20dg. Pinches stayed same but felt better. Also added a 2 finger MR pocket which was pretty hard, one to work on gradually. Overall feeling progress though, which is nice. included some strength and core after (press-up, pull-up, crunch, dips, plank front & L & R inc curls, lock-off tucks).

Th: full strength/core workout 75mins inc warm-up + outdoor swim 1.5km

F: fun leading at castle. 7a repeat, 7a+ project clean! New 7a project (ridiculously harder than all others so far…hope this doesn’t mean all the others were soft…), 6c+ (close one fall), warm-ups: 5+, 6a, 6a+

S: belay bitch for my GF as she rehab's, she did about 10 pitches on the long lead lines, most as top-rope in 5 to 6a+ range, me putting rope up, she did two on lead at the end.

Su: fingerboard. same as Wednesday but minus the extra core work, wasn't properly rested...

STG:
- stick to 16 week periodized training plan
- consolidate indoor 7a and 7a+ indoor RP's
- get Girlfriend recovered from her Achilles tendon injury asap! she climbed again this week.
MTG:
- lots of 7a & 7a+ RP, and get on and try 7b outdoor in 2016 (france and spain - orpierre, ceuse, siruana, el chorro)
- E2 & E3 HP's in 2016
- plenty of long adventurous multi-pitch (swiss, france, italy - grimsel, verdon, dolomites, orco)
- leave job, leave country, climb lots starting april t-2months!!
BHAG's
Some current ambitions for future epics, which are a way off in terms of ability, endurance, courage, fitness, but I'd love to get there one day.
- La Fete des Nerfs, 300m, 7a+
- Mescalito, Paroi Rouge, 250m, 7c
- The Nose, 900m, 5.9 / C2
- Freerider, 900m, 7c (probably following someone better than me!)

In reply to Dandan:

Damn, too late to edit but I want to at least attempt to improve diet this week. I've not weight myself out of fear but I feel somewhere around my maximum weight at the moment (78kg). Something to do with Ben&Jerry's ice cream being on offer at Sainsbury's for a few weeks and too much takeaway.

TinTin, no doubt a re-post but love this video for leg injury psyche; vimeo.com/42893621

In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. 0.5% was the target for the week. By Summer I'd like to be at 12% as that used to be my fighting weight.

Mixed bag this week. Got cajoled into joining a gym and went to my first 'exercise set to music' class. Highlight for me was ducking a high five from the hyper instructor. Left her hanging. Not really my thing, felt a bit guilty after about the high five thing. If I do it again I will high five but I draw the line at whooping.

Had a go on the gym fat reading machine. It said 16.3% fatness, which seems about right from what the mirror tells me. My scales say 19% atm so my target on them should be 15%. That makes sense with it adding 1% on every year since I was 35.

The gym has meant I've done well with my physio and trx stuff. My butt and shoulders are feeling good. Got follow up physio session tomorrow so be good to see if I'm less wobbly.

Interviews were again a mixed bag. My no1 uni choice was one of those where I have no idea how I did. Just have to wait, but it's killing me.

Job interview was ace but also bad. Got a job as a physio assistant and it fits round college but could severely interfere with project 8a. However it's an amazing opportunity and I can't wait to get started. Very interesting clients and a really good bunch of staff.

Climbing wise I had 1 an cap session on a new problem. A pocket ripped me a flapper and it may need adjusting but it did the job failing on rep 3 of 4 on the last set.

Also had a session at the depot. Got 4 purples (one steep second go and 3 vert flashes) any other purples were fails. Good session though. Much better than last time, possible softer set?

This week I need to get two an caps in, one route session and get on top of calorie counting.

In reply to Dandan:

"Well done on the BL score, what is your lead project? (apologies if i'm being ignorant and you've already mentioned it)"

I went back and added to my WBL today I now have...... (drum roll)...... Wait for it...... 204!!!!! It has a 2 in front and 3 digits! Like a real proper climbery person! Of course, I was completely uncool and got very excited about it. I realise this means everyone else will have scored 3.5million (slight exaggeration), but, but in the meanwhile I got over 200!!

Ok to put that in it's place the lead project is f6a+. However, it's had no end of folk fuddled and some decent guys have clattered the hell up it - it's a really good route but there doesn't seem to be more than one straight forward move on it. I seem to be getting a clip further each time but then just run out of everything physically and mentally.

Mon - 2 mile hilly run

Tues - 2 mile hilly run

Weds - 2 mile hilly run, 2 hrs roped climbing (lead/training dynamic movement/feet only - not at the same time). 45mins circuit training.

Thurs - 3 miles hilly run. Mental 1 hr bike ride as I was running late and an office had moved!

Fri - 20 mins trx, sally up sally down leg raises and squats.

Sat - 1hr 45 mins skating with daughter squished my bloody phone going splat playing dobby on ice! Took munchkin climbing but didn't do much myself as she wanted to do comp problems. Got shown some of the WBL problems I hadn't tried - still feel a bit funny about that. It's not against any rule and sometimes I have to do them in 1 or 2 visits so see hardly anyone. I feel a bit funny because 2 of the climbs I got today I probably wouldn't have tried so can't get round that it improved my score.

Sun - Depot bouldering, WBL 204!!! Woot! Woot!! Then did baby green on the slab, no hands, no palms, then the purple, no hands no palms and to polish off got on the training circular thinga-me, can't remember what it's called - you climb round in a circle (or figure of eight) till you flop off.

Overall a happy climbing week.

In reply to Dandan: Lurker is the right word - I'm too ashamed to post my abysmal excuse of a week!

In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dandan. Probably had more cookies than strictly necessary this week, and a couple of big family celebration type dinners, but managed to be fairly sensible the rest of the time so the weight trend is still going in the right direction.

Monday - climbing at UCR: up-and-down warmups, then 3x6a/+ (should have been 4 but barely started the last one: left hand cramped up like mad, refused to hold anything properly or clip, and took 2 days to stop feeling weird), 4x5c, 4x6a, 4x6a+ (soft). Jumped off before clipping the chains except for the last set.

Tuesday - running: 6 x (90s fast, 3 min jog) plus warmup and cooldown for 7.62km total in 41:45. I was pleased that the intervals felt less like death than last time I did them, but then it turned out that I'd just run them a bit slower.

Wednesday - mucked around with the kettlebells we got a couple of weeks ago. Quite a bit of experimenting just to see which movements worked best with them and which weights were good for them, but somewhere in there I did something along the lines of 3 x (20 lunges (12kg), 20 squats (12kg), 10 tricep raises (8kg), 10 bent-over rows (8kg), 10 shoulder press (8kg), 10 flys (4kg)).

Thursday - running: 8km in 47:40. Felt slow and rubbish. Feeling the squats and lunges, maybe - 12kg is hardly anything but I did quite a few of them and actually haven't done anything with weights for ages.

Friday - TCA circuit board. After warming up did the same 6a 17 times (3x6 with a dns on the very last one, short rests within sets and long rests between). I hope this was good for something because it certainly wasn't good for my skin, the reason I didn't get back on for the last round. Preemptively tape next time? I focused on trying to hold good form even when getting tired and it felt like I had some success with this.

Saturday - a few hours' extremely wet walking round moorland near Macclesfield.

Sunday - nothing (except eating, plenty of that).

Goals / progress on them:

Short term (Feb)

• get weight trending downwards. More actionably: pay attention to food with this in mind
  • did a bit better at paying attention this week and moving average is 0.3kg down on last week's, which is a rate of change I'd be happy to sustain for a bit
• 2 runs/week per my plan in prep for Bristol 10k
  • 6/8 in Feb so far, on track
• do some high-volume climbing sessions
  • yes, 2 this week and 5 so far in Feb
• do fall practice in every volume session
  • one yes and one bouldering-wall-related no this week for 3/5 so far. Although I did let myself off without even trying to jump off the awful panel (great excuse: we'd found a spongy bit in the other end of the rope)

Medium term (Feb, Mar, Apr)

• follow running plan for Bristol 10k
  • 9/36 done, on track
• climb with good attitude in Spain (mid March) and have fun even if I suck!
• climb something outside in the UK if the weather ever cooperates

Minor miracle level "maybe someday" wishes

• redpoint something beginning with 7 indoors?
• redpoint something beginning with 7 outdoors??
• lead a VS??? (don't care whether onsight or after seconding a billion times, but this does include placing the gear myself)

In reply to Si dH:


It's what's on the plan. But we had a quick chat and believe it probably demonstrates the strength to hang the hold more in control because you're going through the full range of motion.

I suspect it takes me nearly 10s to do the two pullups and Ally's opinion is definitely (in agreement with mine) that the pullups should be the harder of the two things.

Incidentally, Ally says you're about 10-15kg stronger than him on the slopers.

I don't think I've ever been adding bodyweight on the little pockets. Apparently though +25kg front 2 on the deeper pockets should give 5.14+ finger crack strength though.

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks for the stats Dandan. No excuses on the yoga to be honest, I do it at home so have just been lazy. Finally did 1 session yesterday, I thought I'd not been getting any more flexible doing it but I certainly felt less flexible after not doing it!

STG = 3x climbing. 2x15 mins yoga. Hopefully outdoors at the weekend
MTG = 7a+ by end of Easter France trip (either France or UK)
LTG = 7b+ pyramid this year, at least 3x7a+, 2x7b,1x7b+. Done plenty of 7as over the last few years.
BHAG = 8a by 40

Mon – 5x5 route sets. 9x5, 10x6a, 5x6a+, 1x6b. Feels a bit easy so will look to up a bit next time.
Wed – 5, 2x6a, 2x6b, 3x6b+, 2x6c+. All clean bar the last route of the day (6b+)
Sat - Swanage but a bit windy to climb, nice walk to Old Harry Rocks
Sun - gf not feeling great so drove home from Swanage. went to do autobelay laps but was super busy. c90 mins bouldering instead. Flashed / 2nd goed a load of cV3 and a couple of V4. 15 mins yoga (finally)

Not too bad a week but not being very disciplined sticking to my plans, need to do more laps and less general climbing for a few weeks. Good that I'm back O/Sing 6c+ ish, hopefully means 7a+ in France should be do-able.

Have also booked for 2 weeks in Kalymnos in Oct with the first week doing the Rocup coaching course (thanks for the recommendation to Dandan among others). Something to look forward to and direct my efforts this year towards. Doing the week with Magnus Midtbo so I think I'll need to toughen up!

This week likely to be super busy at work so hopefully can keep ticking over.

In reply to Si dH:


I wonder if it's the width, the ones I used were pretty rough and would have been 2 inch (49mm) nominal so finished size was probably more like 40-45mm, perhaps that extra bit of width helps?

In reply to Dandan:

Cheers for the stats Dandan. Yeah, the foot pain went down (as expected) within about 2 days. I've seen a podiatrist at the physio and had some suggestions, just have to get out again to see if it helps!

Good to hear about your elbow, I'll trust that you've got it under control and are not going to push it too hard again! I think hms has expressed an interest in Margalef beta too so I'll try to give a decent report when I get back!

M - UCR. 3 x up/down pairs to warm-up then into 4x4 on 6c+, 6c+, 6c, <=6c (couldn't seem to find the right level on the last one).
T - 10km run, core
W - No real training. PhD graduation during the day. Played with kettlebells and counterweights in the evening.
T - 10km run, a few hills. Fingerboard repeaters. Felt pretty weak on back 3, but really strong on slopers.
F - TCA. Same set as Emily: 6x3 on circuits, 1:1 (ish) ratio. Blood blisters on 2 fingers (seem ok now though).
S - Walk around Macclesfield forest, about 12 km, very wet.
S - Nothing/rest/eating/driving.

STG - last minute trip prep for 13th March departure to Margalef.

Volume/endurance training: 8 sessions during February. 5/8. I'm going to do one more of these (Tuesday) and then move on.

Keep up some strength: 5 fingerboard sessions before trip. 3/5

Don't get injured. Still ok on this front

See a physio about my foot. Done. But no way to test whether the recommendations are effective without a partner for Scotland

MTG

spring: keep the pressure on the E4s. Still have to get on Central Wall (E4 6a), Star Wars (E4 5c), Mother Africa (E4 6a), Pacemaker (E5 6a), ...

summer/autumn sport trip: Ceuse or Frankenjura? Route objectives TBC when I actually plan something.

Sub-90 half marathon (Bristol half, September). Benchmark 10k (sub-40 in Bristol 10k, May).

LTG

varied E5 onsights

Get out to Orkney with The Fox

Snowdonia marathon I'll be up at midnight next New Year!

BHAG

The Long Hope Route

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dan. Not quite got the pulley sorted yet but am managing L-hangs for 5 seconds without so hoping I can build that up! Next appointment is 3 March for X-ray then hopefully into walking boot. Have been expanding top rope repertoire this week and made it up to the Peak for the first time since it happened. Car journey was a nightmare as foot and ankle got really swollen which took a couple of days to go down, but it was awesome to have a change of scene and gratifying to knock out some higher grades (though they were at what I would contend are softer grade walls!)

Mentally up and down with the injury, and stressing about being a burden to my OH (who is being awesome). Normally would go off and physically blast myself to get out of my head, but that's not easy and unfortunately reliant on other people!

Right knee is taking a bashing either from smearing or 'foot swap' on holds. Tried the 5.10 knee bar pad but it's designed to go on lower thigh not to articulate around the knee. Ben has fashioned me a kneepad out of an old ski sock, some cut up climbing shoe rubber and dental floss which is helping.

M - coaching then TR Brookes. Laps on the 5+ overhang, then 5+ corner (hard). 6a+ on wall with vertical start moving to overhang at the top. Really pleased that I can climb 6a+ with one leg at Brookes!
T - benchpress 8 x 15 x 20kg
W - rest
T - rest - DOMS
F - TR Climbing Unit. First time I've used a rope and harness at this wall. Definitely prefer the bouldering! 7 routes to 6b+.
S - TR Wirksworth - 7 routes (3x 5+, 1x 6a, 3x 6a+) on varied terrain.
S - TR Wirksworth - tired. 5+, 6c (dog), 6b, 6a+

In reply to Dandan:


Thanks for stepping in.


It's been touch and go, but just about

m: No gym this week, because it was half term. Did a shorter than normal trail run 8km, 49:34
t: Went out for a longer run, but had to come back early because my ankle was playing up did 13.5k in the end, 1:25, second half being MUCH slower
w: rest
t: Ran home from work, 5k, 26:08 - ankle seemed OK
f: rest
s: Horton parkrun 5k, 24:31
s: test

Weight 82.1kg, Body fat 20.0% both of these are based on daily weighings averaged across the week.

In reply to Nick Russell:

I'll need to check, but the weekend 5/6th could work for a scottish hit?

In reply to Ally Smith:

That would be great for me (assuming decent conditions somewhere). Just let me know when you've confirmed!

In reply to AJM:

A fair point - perhaps I should keep a session of them in next week as well as a max hqnh session.


It took me about 8s I think.



This probably all comes down to individual bm2000 boards and where they are, especially on the slopers. Unless Ally is super weak on slopers for his grade then i strongly suspect my board is grippier than his. They vary a lot.
I mean the small but positive 2 finger pockets by the way, not the slopy ones! And on front two, as opposed to middle two, I can't hang bodyweight.

In reply to Si dH:

I hung the slopey 2 finger pockets on the board at Gloucester wall for 3 freakish seconds on one solitary occasion but have never since been able to get even close tp getting my feet off the ground. I've no idea how I did it - perhaps the planets were all in line above me or there was a freak wind or something.

I assumed you probably meant the positive ones although I would put nothing past you these days.

The +25kg is on the pockets one row up, incidentally.

In reply to Dandan:

It's not my ankle it's my whole foot but it's improving thanks. Still really weak though and I can't put any pressure through it when it's rotated at an angle.

Life certainly has a way of helping you when you need it. I was struggling to fix on some goals and now I have pretty clear ones. Had to make the crap decision this week to pull out of my first race and also the Scotland trip. Absolutely gutted and quite p*ssed off to be frank but there are people in worse situations in the world so I just need to chin up and rest it. I'm missing the BJJ training to be honest but we'll see.

STGs:
Foot rehab x4 daily: on-going
Walk to shop: tick
Walk for 1hr: tick
Walk in Peak
Turbo
Bike around block
Bike on trail
Climb

M: Rest and rehab. Walked to shop, 20 mins woo!
T: Rest and rehab. Upper body weights.
W: Rest and rehab. Managed a 1hr walk with the dog.
T: Rest and rehab. Foot hurting this morning after yesterday's walk but got out for another 1hr with him today.
F: Rest and rehab. Foot aching quite a lot. Rest, ice, rest, ice, rest it.
S: Rest and rehab.
S: Rest and rehab. Upper body weights.

Current weight: about 145 – 147 lbs.

In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. A late one from me to include the Wildside report.

Early in the week last week, Tuesday I think, I had a really good board session. It's set up as "3x a hard problem within 6 minutes, do 1-4-7, rest 6 minutes" x6. Intermediates on the campus board and failure on some reps definitely allowed.

So I used my previous 2 board projects for x2 sets each. They each took me about 2 sessions each and I managed to repeat them x3 and x4 respectively out of the x6. Chuffed. I also hit 1-4-6 at least once on my stronger arm which I can only ever do whilst going well. Spent the remaining 2 sets working on a new problem, a proto project so to speak. Stonking session.

Didn't do much else that week.

Wildside, arrived on Saturday, had 3 trips up the route I think, got stumped by a move. Watched internet beta when I got back and I'd hit the intermediate but hadn't seen the hold you go again to.

Sunday only 2 trips up it, everyone projecting so long dogging goes and we were knackered so had a late start. Sorted the remaining moves easily once I knew what I was doing, and finished the day with the route broken into short links.

Monday rest

Tuesday back on it. 3 tie ins.
- First go was to a frustrating move low in the crux, then to the last move but off it.
- Second go was to the same point but then complete to the top. Worked the move more as well.
- Third go falling in the same point. Very annoying as that move isn't that hard! Off the bolts almost every way of doing the move feels easy and I did it straight after the top link on go 2 and it was fine. Something about the sort of moves I've done to get into it rather than just general pump? I should be falling off higher in the crux than this. Worked out a hopefully improved sequence.

Stubbed my toe last night and its now all bruised so I can't climb today. Bit frustrating. Would have been a big ask today anyway given the plateaued progress yesterday but the move I fell on is into a slight rest so breaking through that would have unlocked a route through into trying the upper crux section, which would have felt like good progress for the trip.

Still, I wanted to test myself, all about the process and a measure of how close I was to "short trip 8a". If I'd made more progress yesterday it might have been in that "playing the odds" sort of state, if I'd got back on it today despite lower progress yesterday I'd have hoped to be up in the final quarter of the route on redpoint. Could be worse!

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dan. Much appreciated. Hope the recovery is going well.

STG - Keep doing some climbing

Weight - 12st 9lbs (3lbs loss)

M - 35 routes at the rec
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Rest

Pretty lazy again. Guess it's good that I'm ticking over with the climbing. Also weight is being lost, so that's a good thing. Had hoped to be lighter before going on holiday next week, but hopefully the weather will be nice and we'll do lots of walking so all the cake, beer and bacon scoffing which will happen won't mean massive weight gains. I might even try to do a bit of fell shuffling (it's what I do, not quite running, not quite walking either...).

In reply to Dandan:

Hello there Dandan,

A much better week for me this week. Not really a huge amount of real stuff done on the winter front, but some good training and now out in Rjukan crushing lots of steep ice.

M: 8.7km Z1
T: General strength routine with core warmup
W:8.7km Z1
T: General strength routine with core warmup
F: Rest - travelling to Rjukan
S: Day at Krokan, mega busy due to it being a weekend. Climbed Kjøkkentrappa (WI-4) and then cos of the crowds. Got Vemorkbrufoss Øst (WI-4) done in the afternoon.
S: Great day in the upper gorge. Got Bakveien (WI-4) and Sabotørfossen (WI-5) done. Amazing two routes, really atmospheric and with great quality climbing.

Last week's goals: 2 runs tick, 2 workouts tick. Get a few routes done off the Rjukan ticklist on Saturday and Sunday - depends on where we end up going tiiiiiick!.

STG (this week): Finish off my Rjukan ticklist (if the routes are in!) As follows:

Gaustaspøkelse
Topp
Jomfrua
Fyrstikka
Rjukanfossen
Verdens Ende
For Alle Menn
Vemorkbrufoss Vest
Juvsoyla

In reply to AJM:

I'd been wondering how you had been getting on. I think it's a really good effort getting out there and going for the "short trip 8a". I think I tend to be a little too conservative in choosing what I climb, but have been inspired by your efforts. Must have been annoying stubbing your toe, but at least as injuries go it should be quick to heal.

In reply to Dandan: You're right, hard week to follow, so bit of a mid-season rest and a poor day Sunday feeling a bit under the weather.

M - No match for crag id:14651, Chimney Route (VI 6)
T - rest day (sharpening crampons and axes) and overnight coach back down to Oxford.
W & T - chill
F - drive back up
S - Ben Nevis, Fawlty Towers (III) & Waterfall Gully (IV 4) 1st pitch
S - ill

In reply to TonyB:

Cheers Tony. I figured it was only a few days of holiday to sacrifice to the cause and a useful yardstick against which to measure myself...

I'm just keeping my fingers crossed that it's nothing more than some bad bruising.

In reply to AJM:


Is this supposed to train ancap? What length problems are they - by 'board', do you mean short steep stuff on a woody? It sounds like a fun training session.

Slightly confused by your description of the reps by the way. Is a single set equal to problem, problem, problem, campus, rest 6 mins (total duration 12-13 minites), and then you repeat the full set 5 more times?

In reply to Si dH:
This is just strength I think, although maybe with some crossover given the slight restriction to rests. I told Tom I fancied doing some work on a woody (i felt it was a weakness worth addressing) and this is what I got. Problems are 7 moves each.

Yes, that's about right for the session structure I think.

Edit: and yes a 45 degree woody.

In reply to Dandan:


I've just watched this and it has got me really psyched...it's got so many problems I want to do! Great Font vid.

vimeo.com/100836349

In reply to Dandan:

Morning Campers,

Ta muchly there, Mr Dandan. I'm not too worried if I miss STGs as, at present, I'm just fitting what I can in the gaps between work and Daddage. I'm trying to balance 75% climbing to 25% training that isn't actually climbing i.e. fingerboarding/campussing etc. each week as I'm not that brilliant at the ol' climbing thang and need as much practice as I can get

Training Diary WC 15/02/16
An Cap Cycle/ Wk 1
Return of the Shovel

Monday – Recovery. Still got the sniffles.
Tuesday – Strength Session. Max hangs on BM2000. Weakest grip first: middle 2 finger open hand (18mm pocket) – hangs 1-4 body weight (BW) – 3.2kg (96%BW) for full 10s. Grip 2: 35&#730; sloper: hangs 1 to 4 BW +16.8kg (122%BW) for 10s – up a tad from last week. Finally, grip 3: 4 finger half crimp on 18mm edge: hangs 1 to 4 at BW + 21.9kg (129%BW). Then limit moves on 35° panel in Supershed: 9 reps (5 min rests) on various made up problems of 2-6 moves on crimps and slopers with awful feet – smashed after this. Finished with 3 sets of 10 steady pull ups (3 min rest).
Wednesday – Run (Strides): 5.8km in 26:04 at 4:26m/km. GAP 4:20m/km as 95m of ascent. Picked pace up for a couple of ‘segments’, improved times on both and lungs hung in there – Parkrun is go this weekend!
Thursday - Endurance Session in Supershed: 5 x 8 mins on/ 8 off Aero Cap on Neon Yellows (6a) on 20° panel inc. sorties on to extension loop on 35° panel. Just pumped enough. Then 5 x 1 on/ 1 off reps on 20° Neon Pink 6b+ circuit. Not pumpy enough so will reset bits of it soon. Finished with 3 sets of 10 steady pull ups (3 min rest).
Friday – Recovery.
Saturday – Little Stoke Parkrun: PB attempt. Weather favourable and a good fast field to pull me along. Overtook two fellas on the last lap. Took 3s off my PB, it’s down to 18:18(3:38m/km) so getting closer to my 18:00 target. Km splits were 3:32, 3:37, 3:46, 3:46 and 3:29. That pesky third km got me again so need to boost fitness and extend interval training to keep the pace up through that mid race section.
Sunday – Boulder at Bloc with the Good Lady Wife, Bambino, Cha1n and many more. A tricky session. Sharing bambino cuddling duties made it hard to hit a rhythm/ get warmed up and into stuff properly but it was great to be trying hard moves set by other people and have some great banter - did manage a 6C in only a few goes though, huzzah! Finished with An Cap reps on the 7c+/8a circuit – did 11 reps of 8 – 13 moves at 1 on/ 3 off – felt wasted at the end, especially as all the holds were wide pinches or slopers and there was lots of whole body tension/compression rather than just crimpy cranking – just what I needed.
Evening – 1 hr of digging (yes, I found more soil to move around in my garden, the joy!).
Short Term Goals
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+ - reset in progress.
Slopers, slopers, slopers, heel hooks, heel to hand matches, getting feet up and onto hand holds following a cut loose on overhangs, long locks between moves (and other weaknesses) – one or two of these at Bloc.
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability – no.
At least one fingerboard session a week. Aye.
Write a new training plan – it’s in my head, just need to get it written down – nope.
Add in 2 sessions of ‘pull muscles’ strength training to max hangs sessions – did some pull ups.
3 Core sessions featuring the best of DanDan’s workout and L hangs, knee raises, windscreen wipers and front lever thangs – a liitle while warming up for the fingerboard.
Medium Term Goals
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’ (nope – more interested in ‘The Poop’ than ‘The Loop’ just now).
Climb Underhand (7B+) at Almscliff – peak for Easter
Implement and stick to the new training plan – yup!
Build fitness and speed for another 5K PB attempt in April.
Weight = 69.0kg

Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX

In reply to Dandan:

Currently in a blackhole of decorating and DIY which is going to be punctuated by two house moves in the next six months (hopefully).

I seem to be keeping to three sessions a week at bouldering walls. Got schooled by the latest set of problems at Boulder UK and my strength focus at Rochdale has yielded no improvement. In short I am going backwards and not sure what to do I prep for the Easter hols. I'm thinking of two stamina sessions a week but not sure what to do, I'm reading a lot about low intensity 10 mins (at least) 10 mins off but this is alien to what I normally do and enjoy and doubt 4 weeks is enough for this sort of capillarisation to have any effect, any views?

In reply to Tyler:

Capillarisation will have an effect after the first session. This maxes out after about 8 weeks.

Do you struggle recovering on routes/between routes? That's what it's for really. If that base is decent I'd suggest the traditional get pumped lots.

Fwiw for time starved climbers max bouldering is supposed to be the best thing to do.

Two house moves in 6 mths????

In reply to Tyler:


4 weeks out from a trip I'd be doing power endurance training. 10 on 10 off is all well and good but its fiddling around with the fine details of your base phase, not doing your peak phase which is what T-4 should be.

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dan for doing the stats this week! Good to hear you´re back and it sounds like you´re taking it slow with building up training. It probably sounds worse than it was, I really enjoyed the time spent in Rjukan and can’t wait to go back .

M: running and stretching, everything kind a sore and stiff from Rjukan-trip
T: tried to climb, but was still pumped, so aborted the session early.
W: running, antagonists and legs
T: bouldering indoors, didn’t warm up properly and ended up with a flash pump.
F: travel to work and did a 2 hour ski tour.
S: work
S: work

In reply to robbiebrookie:

Sorry for not replying last week, was off to work (up in a mountain hut and didn't take a laptop).

To get back to your question about which time of the year is best. I've been in July last year for the first time and it was 35degrees which was kind of warm, but due to the fact that it was quarried (so you'll find all aspects) and the trees it was climbable in the shade. Maybe the fact that I never jammed before and sticked to low grade routes also helped.
The rocktype is basalt, which takes some time to get used to the friction and most of it is black, so that must be horrible in the sun in summer. Gear-wise it's smart to take a lot of cams, and if you have them some offset nuts (generally not much nuts needed there, but sometimes the dmm alloys came in handy, although usually a cam placement wasn't far away). If you do decide to go there, watch out for cracks covered with lichen. There have been some accidents with cams ripping under bodyweight.

I'm off to work again this weekend, so if you have any questions, I'll reply in next weeks thread. Enjoy your weekend!

In reply to 0.5viking:

Thanks for the info on Ettringen and the heads up!

Our list of crack climbing diversions for the trip is growing; Valle dell'Orco, Annot, Chamonix, Grimsel, Ettringen.

I better buy some tape and be ready to be humbled...