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UKC user Mick Ward pens a poignant tribute to John Syrett - a talented and influential climber active in the 1970's.
'John Syrett was an incredibly charismatic guy who sadly killed himself over 30 years ago. He may have suffered from depression - or he may simply have had enough. I don't know. Everybody who uses a climbing wall owes something to him, although almost nobody realises it. I've tried to give something of his story.'
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In reply to UKC Articles:
Brilliant bit of writing, Mick. What a legend and what a tragedy.
Thanks for sharing.
Dunc
Brilliant bit of writing, Mick. What a legend and what a tragedy.
Thanks for sharing.
Dunc
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Really great Mick.
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In reply to UKC Articles:
Great article.
Would be a nice to see it extended - always great to peek in to the lives of those who forged the path in which we follow.
Great article.
Would be a nice to see it extended - always great to peek in to the lives of those who forged the path in which we follow.
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In reply to Shani:
If you Google Footless Crow and John Syrett you'll find a wonderful longer article. Desperately sad.
If you Google Footless Crow and John Syrett you'll find a wonderful longer article. Desperately sad.
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In reply to UKC Articles:
Nice article, but for those that don't know who he is it would be useful to have a bit more detail - what happened with the fall & knife?
Nice article, but for those that don't know who he is it would be useful to have a bit more detail - what happened with the fall & knife?
In reply to UKC Articles:
I enjoyed that Mick in a sad and melancholy way. I never knew the man but remember the saga unfolding at the time.
Thanks,
Chris
I enjoyed that Mick in a sad and melancholy way. I never knew the man but remember the saga unfolding at the time.
Thanks,
Chris
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In reply to Toerag:
Yep, me too! The stories about many of these early climbers are often as captivating as their climbs.
"At a typically drunken party at Leeds, he cut his hand badly trying to open a can of beer (pre-ring pull days) with a serrated kitchen knife. It is the kind of stupid thing we've all done when drunk or stoned, but in an instant the damage was done and the major tendons in two fingers were severed. The accident was a very serious one, John delayed in getting adequate treatment, and it was to be many months before he could even attempt to climb again. Despite prolonged and painful physiotherapy, the recovery was only partial and John was forced to confront the realisation that climbing at the level he desired might never return - he was just twenty-four."
http://footlesscrow.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/gritstone-visionary.html
Yep, me too! The stories about many of these early climbers are often as captivating as their climbs.
"At a typically drunken party at Leeds, he cut his hand badly trying to open a can of beer (pre-ring pull days) with a serrated kitchen knife. It is the kind of stupid thing we've all done when drunk or stoned, but in an instant the damage was done and the major tendons in two fingers were severed. The accident was a very serious one, John delayed in getting adequate treatment, and it was to be many months before he could even attempt to climb again. Despite prolonged and painful physiotherapy, the recovery was only partial and John was forced to confront the realisation that climbing at the level he desired might never return - he was just twenty-four."
http://footlesscrow.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/gritstone-visionary.html
Post edited at 16:30
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In reply to Goucho:
That's what haunts me. As an impressionable kid, it was as though John had it all - the ability, the looks, the charisma... the ladies! And then suddenly everything became well-nigh nothing. Back then I thought, 'He's so ridiculously good (he'd supposedly done Peg Crack at Ilkley one-handed), even with one finger out, can't he find a way of making climbing work for him?' Think of Tommy Caldwell crimping F9a with just half a forefinger. But it's facile for me to sit here and type this. What really mattered was what his injury signified to John. Steve Webster was climbing E3 and E4 with him post-injury and, also post-injury, I think he did the second or third ascent of Giggling Crack, cutting edge E6 in 1976 or '77. I'm sure Jim Perrin told me his finger was pretty much back to normal at the end. But maybe he felt by then he'd lost too much time.
Steve Dean's excellent piece is a far more comprehensive retrospective; mine's more personal, just a vignette. Not that I really knew John; back then, I was hopelessly star-struck.
After struggling with this for more than 20 years (it's been driving me crazy), I finally sent it to Natalie yesterday morning. She put it up almost immediately, bless her. In the meantime, the sad news arrived of Brian Cropper's passing. I emailed Natalie suggesting holding off on this and I'd try and get something out about Brian instead (maybe too much sadness with both). But she'd put it up by then. I'll still try to get something out about Brian (who was a fascinating character) but am a bit brain-dead at the moment. Sometimes, through the sadness though, come insights into our human condition.
Mick
P.S. Thanks to everyone who's liked it.
> It makes you think what might have been?
That's what haunts me. As an impressionable kid, it was as though John had it all - the ability, the looks, the charisma... the ladies! And then suddenly everything became well-nigh nothing. Back then I thought, 'He's so ridiculously good (he'd supposedly done Peg Crack at Ilkley one-handed), even with one finger out, can't he find a way of making climbing work for him?' Think of Tommy Caldwell crimping F9a with just half a forefinger. But it's facile for me to sit here and type this. What really mattered was what his injury signified to John. Steve Webster was climbing E3 and E4 with him post-injury and, also post-injury, I think he did the second or third ascent of Giggling Crack, cutting edge E6 in 1976 or '77. I'm sure Jim Perrin told me his finger was pretty much back to normal at the end. But maybe he felt by then he'd lost too much time.
Steve Dean's excellent piece is a far more comprehensive retrospective; mine's more personal, just a vignette. Not that I really knew John; back then, I was hopelessly star-struck.
After struggling with this for more than 20 years (it's been driving me crazy), I finally sent it to Natalie yesterday morning. She put it up almost immediately, bless her. In the meantime, the sad news arrived of Brian Cropper's passing. I emailed Natalie suggesting holding off on this and I'd try and get something out about Brian instead (maybe too much sadness with both). But she'd put it up by then. I'll still try to get something out about Brian (who was a fascinating character) but am a bit brain-dead at the moment. Sometimes, through the sadness though, come insights into our human condition.
Mick
P.S. Thanks to everyone who's liked it.
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In reply to Shani:
Thanks for that. I'd forgotten that it was two fingers; am definitely losing the plot. Certainly the injury was a major one - with dire consequences.
Mick
Thanks for that. I'd forgotten that it was two fingers; am definitely losing the plot. Certainly the injury was a major one - with dire consequences.
Mick
In reply to UKC Articles:
Really nice writing Mick. I never met the guy but know many who did, and you seem to have captured the essence of the man really well.
If you blur out the EBs and 70s gear from the last three pictures, his body positions look very much like a boulderer in the modern idiom. Guess we owe him and the Leeds wall a debt of gratitude opening up training for the next generation.
Paul
Really nice writing Mick. I never met the guy but know many who did, and you seem to have captured the essence of the man really well.
If you blur out the EBs and 70s gear from the last three pictures, his body positions look very much like a boulderer in the modern idiom. Guess we owe him and the Leeds wall a debt of gratitude opening up training for the next generation.
Paul
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In reply to Mick Ward:
I remember the first time I went to the Leeds wall in the mid 70's and someone pointing out Syretts Roof to me. All I could think was F#@ck!!!
John deserves far wider recognition for his undoubted genius, and is yet further proof that the stars which shine brightest often shine the shortest.
Best way to really understand his legacy - and maybe him? - is to do Jokers Wall at Brimham and remember that he originally graded it HVS
I remember the first time I went to the Leeds wall in the mid 70's and someone pointing out Syretts Roof to me. All I could think was F#@ck!!!
John deserves far wider recognition for his undoubted genius, and is yet further proof that the stars which shine brightest often shine the shortest.
Best way to really understand his legacy - and maybe him? - is to do Jokers Wall at Brimham and remember that he originally graded it HVS
Post edited at 18:14
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In reply to paul_in_cumbria:
That's the thing, he was so far ahead of his time - as was his contemporaries, Al Manson and Pete Kitson. The photo of him on Joker's Wall, even the way he's palming Problem Arete. The first heel hook I'd ever seen was on the Mountain front cover of him on Encore.
In the 70s the punters, like me, thought, "Kill it with finger strength." In the 90s we thought, "Kill it with power." But what did he do - kill it with technique!
He was so far ahead of his time.
Mick
> ...his body positions look very much like a boulderer in the modern idiom.
That's the thing, he was so far ahead of his time - as was his contemporaries, Al Manson and Pete Kitson. The photo of him on Joker's Wall, even the way he's palming Problem Arete. The first heel hook I'd ever seen was on the Mountain front cover of him on Encore.
In the 70s the punters, like me, thought, "Kill it with finger strength." In the 90s we thought, "Kill it with power." But what did he do - kill it with technique!
He was so far ahead of his time.
Mick
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In reply to Goucho:
It was genius - even I could see that.
I suppose for him the accident was akin to painting the Mona Lisa and then having your hand chopped off. So you look at your other hand and think, "How well can I paint with that?"
Genius destroyed. And yet he showed us the way forward. He's left us a legacy. As Paul said, we owe him a debt of gratitude. Even though he lost, he's given us something which will always endure.
So, in a way, he's not really lost.
Mick
> John deserves far wider recognition for his undoubted genius, and is yet further proof that the stars which shine brightest often shine the shortest.
It was genius - even I could see that.
I suppose for him the accident was akin to painting the Mona Lisa and then having your hand chopped off. So you look at your other hand and think, "How well can I paint with that?"
Genius destroyed. And yet he showed us the way forward. He's left us a legacy. As Paul said, we owe him a debt of gratitude. Even though he lost, he's given us something which will always endure.
So, in a way, he's not really lost.
Mick
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In reply to UKC Articles:
Not sure but I think his injury to his hand occurred at a party in Millom... We were playing a game how far one could place a bottle .. it broke. He certainly cut his hand there as I was at the party.I also have some photos of him and on Post Mortem in Borrowdale with Al Manson
Not sure but I think his injury to his hand occurred at a party in Millom... We were playing a game how far one could place a bottle .. it broke. He certainly cut his hand there as I was at the party.I also have some photos of him and on Post Mortem in Borrowdale with Al Manson
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In reply to USBRIT:
Paul, you are right - it was at Millom (on the night of May 10th, 1974; I was there too). I remember the injury being caused by a broken bottle and not a knife. In the morning I offered to take John to the hospital in my old van, but he declined. A few years later I met him again and he was all bitter and twisted with me for *not* taking him to the hospital at that time. All very sad.
Paul, you are right - it was at Millom (on the night of May 10th, 1974; I was there too). I remember the injury being caused by a broken bottle and not a knife. In the morning I offered to take John to the hospital in my old van, but he declined. A few years later I met him again and he was all bitter and twisted with me for *not* taking him to the hospital at that time. All very sad.
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In reply to Mick Ward:
I remember seeing that Mountain front cover and thinking how gymnastic it looked - way ahead of his time. Seeing that picture prompted a visit to the Leeds wall which we found desperate.
I remember seeing that Mountain front cover and thinking how gymnastic it looked - way ahead of his time. Seeing that picture prompted a visit to the Leeds wall which we found desperate.
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In reply to UKC Articles:
I have deliberately refrained from saying anything so far, because forums like these are so public, and this is such a personal matter. I was fortunate enough to get to know John Syrett very well indeed from 1969 to 1972 (from when he started to climb in autumn 1969 - he was my brother John's full-time climbing partner for at least the next 18 months). My brother and I, John Syrett and my climbing partner, Tim James, spent a month camping and climbing in Llanberis pass in August 1970. What with university work (S Wales) I didn't see John Syrett again much until the summer of 72, when I went on a month trip to the Alps with him. It was just the two of us, with me driving. It was John's first Alpine climbing, and he didn't take to it too well. Wasn't very happy with the style of crack climbing in big boots for example. We did a number of things together, including a rather major epic on the Aiguille du Peigne, and then - for reasons I can't remember, he dropped out of the climbing (I can't remember if he was unwell, injured, or had just lost enthusiasm for alpinism - I am away from my log books at the moment so can't look that up.) But we were in the same two-man tent, and did an awful lot of drinking and talking. In fact, we'd talk in the tent every night until far into the night. Just about every subject under the sun. So I got to know him extremely well, and it 's true to say we became close friends. I climbed various things with other climbers (like the Forbes Arete on the Chardonnet), and as far as I remember he didn't do any more climbing after our Peigne epic. On the way back we spent three days at a very posh English girls school on the outskirts of Lausanne - John had two girl friends there ...
He was a very unusual character, mysterious, mercurial, intense, and a kind of 'purist' in everything he did. Didn't get on too well with many aspects of the modern world. A complete one-off. And a massively talented climber. Fantastically agile and imaginative in the way he climbed. A very nice person indeed. When I heard of his passing, like many of his friends, I was absolutely devastated.
I have deliberately refrained from saying anything so far, because forums like these are so public, and this is such a personal matter. I was fortunate enough to get to know John Syrett very well indeed from 1969 to 1972 (from when he started to climb in autumn 1969 - he was my brother John's full-time climbing partner for at least the next 18 months). My brother and I, John Syrett and my climbing partner, Tim James, spent a month camping and climbing in Llanberis pass in August 1970. What with university work (S Wales) I didn't see John Syrett again much until the summer of 72, when I went on a month trip to the Alps with him. It was just the two of us, with me driving. It was John's first Alpine climbing, and he didn't take to it too well. Wasn't very happy with the style of crack climbing in big boots for example. We did a number of things together, including a rather major epic on the Aiguille du Peigne, and then - for reasons I can't remember, he dropped out of the climbing (I can't remember if he was unwell, injured, or had just lost enthusiasm for alpinism - I am away from my log books at the moment so can't look that up.) But we were in the same two-man tent, and did an awful lot of drinking and talking. In fact, we'd talk in the tent every night until far into the night. Just about every subject under the sun. So I got to know him extremely well, and it 's true to say we became close friends. I climbed various things with other climbers (like the Forbes Arete on the Chardonnet), and as far as I remember he didn't do any more climbing after our Peigne epic. On the way back we spent three days at a very posh English girls school on the outskirts of Lausanne - John had two girl friends there ...
He was a very unusual character, mysterious, mercurial, intense, and a kind of 'purist' in everything he did. Didn't get on too well with many aspects of the modern world. A complete one-off. And a massively talented climber. Fantastically agile and imaginative in the way he climbed. A very nice person indeed. When I heard of his passing, like many of his friends, I was absolutely devastated.
Post edited at 09:59
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In reply to UKC Articles:
Great photos, great words and a great hero. John Syrett embodied much of what us mortals wanted to be: an athlete who made climbing more akin to a ballet with muscle. I do recall the news of his passing. His light was indeed so bright, and his death brought an immense sadness to many of my generation, to whom his achievements and persona meant so much.
Thanks for reminding me.
Great photos, great words and a great hero. John Syrett embodied much of what us mortals wanted to be: an athlete who made climbing more akin to a ballet with muscle. I do recall the news of his passing. His light was indeed so bright, and his death brought an immense sadness to many of my generation, to whom his achievements and persona meant so much.
Thanks for reminding me.
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In reply to UKC Articles:
Much has been written about John Syrett and his amazing talent. Having known one or two of the Leeds contemporaries, perhaps those that did know him should produce a good obituary that the rest of us may read?
DC
Much has been written about John Syrett and his amazing talent. Having known one or two of the Leeds contemporaries, perhaps those that did know him should produce a good obituary that the rest of us may read?
DC
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In reply to UKC Articles:
Mick,
Are you sure that picture of JS at Jesmond Dene is really him? Very difficult to tell from the picture, but it does not look quite right for Syrett - more like Alan Manson.
Mick,
Are you sure that picture of JS at Jesmond Dene is really him? Very difficult to tell from the picture, but it does not look quite right for Syrett - more like Alan Manson.
In reply to UKC Articles:
Thank you for a very well written article, depression and drink, such treacharous bedfellows.
Thank you for a very well written article, depression and drink, such treacharous bedfellows.
In reply to John Stainforth:
Hi John,
I absolutely agree - it does not look like him, it looks more like Al Manson. And you would also have known Al well; I didn't know either of them, not really. I was simply going on Telemark's caption and thinking, 'Well, he may have changed by then.' We could ask Telemark - and Steve Blake, who was around at that time. And obviously find out what Gordon thinks. And ask Al, if need be.
This is the caption I was going on:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=266385
Maybe I'm reading too much into this but, to my mind, that's a very odd body position. Having said that, the gritstone images also show odd body positions - but odd as in inspired. Whereas this, to me, looks odd as in not right. I chose the image because there seems a lost quality about it.
By a strange coincidence, I had a phone call yesterday from Steve Dean about John. Steve doesn't come on here (which is fair enough) and didn't know about this. Also, by another strange coincidence, early this morning, when you were posting, I was trying to piece together some clues which I think are contained in this thread. We may be on the verge of understanding John slightly better.
As Gordon said, this is a highly sensitive subject for a public forum. So far, everyone has been incredibly civilized - this place at its absolute best. If we're going to understand John any better, it will only come about through shared compassion.
Mick
Hi John,
I absolutely agree - it does not look like him, it looks more like Al Manson. And you would also have known Al well; I didn't know either of them, not really. I was simply going on Telemark's caption and thinking, 'Well, he may have changed by then.' We could ask Telemark - and Steve Blake, who was around at that time. And obviously find out what Gordon thinks. And ask Al, if need be.
This is the caption I was going on:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=266385
Maybe I'm reading too much into this but, to my mind, that's a very odd body position. Having said that, the gritstone images also show odd body positions - but odd as in inspired. Whereas this, to me, looks odd as in not right. I chose the image because there seems a lost quality about it.
By a strange coincidence, I had a phone call yesterday from Steve Dean about John. Steve doesn't come on here (which is fair enough) and didn't know about this. Also, by another strange coincidence, early this morning, when you were posting, I was trying to piece together some clues which I think are contained in this thread. We may be on the verge of understanding John slightly better.
As Gordon said, this is a highly sensitive subject for a public forum. So far, everyone has been incredibly civilized - this place at its absolute best. If we're going to understand John any better, it will only come about through shared compassion.
Mick
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In reply to Mick Ward:
As a beginner I had only one photo on my wall while I trained with hand grippers.That photo was of Syrett at Almscliff.
I never saw him climb.I met him once,in Leeds,in a terraced house,typical climber's doss.He hardly spoke;clearly a very intense private person.Alex McIntyre and Steve Bancroft were also present.Repeating Wall of Horrors with a handy rack of large hexes,I was impressed at the guts of the man to solo the crux on sight.One of the few real climbers in the trad style.In that house we listened to Pete Gabriel's Solsbury Hill.'' You can keep my music,come and take me home.''
As a beginner I had only one photo on my wall while I trained with hand grippers.That photo was of Syrett at Almscliff.
I never saw him climb.I met him once,in Leeds,in a terraced house,typical climber's doss.He hardly spoke;clearly a very intense private person.Alex McIntyre and Steve Bancroft were also present.Repeating Wall of Horrors with a handy rack of large hexes,I was impressed at the guts of the man to solo the crux on sight.One of the few real climbers in the trad style.In that house we listened to Pete Gabriel's Solsbury Hill.'' You can keep my music,come and take me home.''
In reply to Shani:
As somebody who has also severed tendons in two fingers (cycling accident), I can confirm that even with immediate treatment over several months, it doesn't always work out (but clearly delaying treatment wouldn't improve your chances of recovery!). I cannot now bend one of the fingers at the top joint but the other is OK. Whilst I dabbled in climbing and play guitar, I was always rubbish and not defined by those activities, so there was minimal emotional impact.
Incidentally, I went to school with somebody with the surname Syrett (in Surrey but not far from the Kent border). It's an unusual name which I've never otherwise come across. This person would have been a generation later than John, probably not related, but I'm curious about it now (the face is not entirely dissimilar).
> "...in an instant the damage was done and the major tendons in two fingers were severed. The accident was a very serious one, John delayed in getting adequate treatment, and it was to be many months before he could even attempt to climb again..."
As somebody who has also severed tendons in two fingers (cycling accident), I can confirm that even with immediate treatment over several months, it doesn't always work out (but clearly delaying treatment wouldn't improve your chances of recovery!). I cannot now bend one of the fingers at the top joint but the other is OK. Whilst I dabbled in climbing and play guitar, I was always rubbish and not defined by those activities, so there was minimal emotional impact.
Incidentally, I went to school with somebody with the surname Syrett (in Surrey but not far from the Kent border). It's an unusual name which I've never otherwise come across. This person would have been a generation later than John, probably not related, but I'm curious about it now (the face is not entirely dissimilar).
In reply to paul mitchell:
Hi Paul, Steve told me about a house they shared in Leeds; it sounded like a wild place! I think this was around the 'Forecourt Crawler' time - Steve's mordant sense of humour about his/(their?) job at the garage.
Mick
Hi Paul, Steve told me about a house they shared in Leeds; it sounded like a wild place! I think this was around the 'Forecourt Crawler' time - Steve's mordant sense of humour about his/(their?) job at the garage.
Mick
In reply to Mick Ward:
I'm pretty sure it was John. He turned up a few times at the Dene when I was there, always by himself riding a blue bicycle. No mistaking the eyes anyway. But that was nearly 40 years ago and memory plays funny tricks sometimes. We chatted but he didn't introduce himself. Other people in the University club knew who he was though.
The best I can pin the date down is autumn 1978 because of the particular camera I was using. John is in one other picture I took at around the same time but only blurred in the background and barely recognisable changing his boots on the red bench that was down there at the time. Same person in each picture.
So sorry, circumstantial evidence at best.
Nick
I'm pretty sure it was John. He turned up a few times at the Dene when I was there, always by himself riding a blue bicycle. No mistaking the eyes anyway. But that was nearly 40 years ago and memory plays funny tricks sometimes. We chatted but he didn't introduce himself. Other people in the University club knew who he was though.
The best I can pin the date down is autumn 1978 because of the particular camera I was using. John is in one other picture I took at around the same time but only blurred in the background and barely recognisable changing his boots on the red bench that was down there at the time. Same person in each picture.
So sorry, circumstantial evidence at best.
Nick
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In reply to Mick Ward:
Emphasis on the "highly sensitive subject"
Keep off.
Can a selection of musings based on rumours and largely innacurate "facts" help anyone come to understand an obviously troubled person who they never really knew (and why should anyone feel they would need to). This seems like an attempt to find another Amy Winehouse/Princess Diana. Nothing will come through "shared compassion" beyond wallowing in some vicarious emotion.
> (In reply to John Stainforth)
>
> >
> As Gordon said, this is a highly sensitive subject for a public forum. If we're going to understand John any better, it will only come about through shared compassion.
>
> >
> As Gordon said, this is a highly sensitive subject for a public forum. If we're going to understand John any better, it will only come about through shared compassion.
Emphasis on the "highly sensitive subject"
Keep off.
Can a selection of musings based on rumours and largely innacurate "facts" help anyone come to understand an obviously troubled person who they never really knew (and why should anyone feel they would need to). This seems like an attempt to find another Amy Winehouse/Princess Diana. Nothing will come through "shared compassion" beyond wallowing in some vicarious emotion.
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In reply to overdrawnboy:
There is a modern fashion for wallowing in vicarious emotion and a whole world of self-indulgent professional mourners who make me want to vomit.
However this thread isn't it. For 'vicarious emotion', read 'respectful reflection'. By grown-ups.
Btw I also defend your right to voice your opinion whatever I think of it :-;
> Can a selection of musings based on rumours and largely innacurate "facts" help anyone come to understand an obviously troubled person who they never really knew (and why should anyone feel they would need to). This seems like an attempt to find another Amy Winehouse/Princess Diana. Nothing will come through "shared compassion" beyond wallowing in some vicarious emotion.
There is a modern fashion for wallowing in vicarious emotion and a whole world of self-indulgent professional mourners who make me want to vomit.
However this thread isn't it. For 'vicarious emotion', read 'respectful reflection'. By grown-ups.
Btw I also defend your right to voice your opinion whatever I think of it :-;
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In reply to overdrawnboy:
One thing I’ve learned about writing books and articles. As with first ascents, often there are reasons for and reasons against. So what do you do? Sometimes you make the right decision; sometimes you don’t. For me, such decisions are rarely taken lightly.
It’s somewhat ironic that you mention Princess Diana. Some years ago, I was asked to ghostwrite a biography of Camilla Parker Bowles. Apparently she was mad-keen for it - as was my patron. I refused, point-blank. My fear was that the publishers would pretend it was a serious biography, while flattering her to elicit salacious tittle-tattle, with which to humiliate her ultimately.
So I refused. I don’t think she was best pleased. Certainly my patron was well-pissed off. And, God knows, I could have done with the money. However I believe I made the right decision.
But have I made the right decision about John Syrett? I don’t know. I first saw John in the early 70s. He died in 1985. I wrote Anthracite Eyes about the same time as Steve Dean wrote the excellent Gritstone Visionary in the mid-90s. I was glad that Steve’s article was published and appreciated but - because mine was much more subjective, more personal - I held off for another 20 years. Even then, worried about upsetting people, I spent a lot of time scrutinising it, re-editing. And, at the very end, reaching across to email it, I stared at the cursor, hesitating.
Why did I bother about it being published after all this time? Because I’m keenly aware of running out of time. There are probably quite a few climber/writers around their 60s, uniquely placed to chronicle an equally unique era in British climbing - with truly fascinating characters. If we don’t get cracking, in another ten or fifteen years it will be too late. We’ll be too old. Some great history (which many climbers, of all generations, love) will be lost forever.
Never mind publication though, however belated. Why write Anthracite Eyes in the first place? When I first saw that photo of Wall of Horrors, it had the same effect on me as on Paul Mitchell and so many others. I was mesmerised. It symbolised everything to which we aspired.
And John? He was fascinating, mesmerising. Yes, that’s part of it – but, for me, it’s not the most important part.
However fleeting our interaction, he was kind to me. Back then, I hadn’t received an awful lot of kindness from people. And he was kind to me, a total stranger. I’ll always be grateful.
If we can understand him even slightly better, it may be of some help to certain people. And I’ll have done what little I can to repay him.
Mick
One thing I’ve learned about writing books and articles. As with first ascents, often there are reasons for and reasons against. So what do you do? Sometimes you make the right decision; sometimes you don’t. For me, such decisions are rarely taken lightly.
It’s somewhat ironic that you mention Princess Diana. Some years ago, I was asked to ghostwrite a biography of Camilla Parker Bowles. Apparently she was mad-keen for it - as was my patron. I refused, point-blank. My fear was that the publishers would pretend it was a serious biography, while flattering her to elicit salacious tittle-tattle, with which to humiliate her ultimately.
So I refused. I don’t think she was best pleased. Certainly my patron was well-pissed off. And, God knows, I could have done with the money. However I believe I made the right decision.
But have I made the right decision about John Syrett? I don’t know. I first saw John in the early 70s. He died in 1985. I wrote Anthracite Eyes about the same time as Steve Dean wrote the excellent Gritstone Visionary in the mid-90s. I was glad that Steve’s article was published and appreciated but - because mine was much more subjective, more personal - I held off for another 20 years. Even then, worried about upsetting people, I spent a lot of time scrutinising it, re-editing. And, at the very end, reaching across to email it, I stared at the cursor, hesitating.
Why did I bother about it being published after all this time? Because I’m keenly aware of running out of time. There are probably quite a few climber/writers around their 60s, uniquely placed to chronicle an equally unique era in British climbing - with truly fascinating characters. If we don’t get cracking, in another ten or fifteen years it will be too late. We’ll be too old. Some great history (which many climbers, of all generations, love) will be lost forever.
Never mind publication though, however belated. Why write Anthracite Eyes in the first place? When I first saw that photo of Wall of Horrors, it had the same effect on me as on Paul Mitchell and so many others. I was mesmerised. It symbolised everything to which we aspired.
And John? He was fascinating, mesmerising. Yes, that’s part of it – but, for me, it’s not the most important part.
However fleeting our interaction, he was kind to me. Back then, I hadn’t received an awful lot of kindness from people. And he was kind to me, a total stranger. I’ll always be grateful.
If we can understand him even slightly better, it may be of some help to certain people. And I’ll have done what little I can to repay him.
Mick
13
In reply to UKC Articles:
Have read this article several times I finally feel I should add something. I climbed with John from the late summer of 1977 and through the winter of 1978 although it became less and less due to working more and climbing less. After this I climbed with him rarely as he then moved to Newcastle.
The last time I climbed with him was at Kyloe in June 1980 the day the Smith brothers did First Born, they were prompted in to doing this as John casually mentioned he'd been as far as the pocket on an on sight attempt. They quickly abbed down cleaned it the led it.
At this time John seemed to be climbing less and less, he had fallen off the Tube at Back Bowden the year before? and decked out, breaking his leg. Alcohol seem to figure in his climbing at this time, Stella the route he did at Howlhirst was named after what he and his climbing partner Richard were drinking at the crag.
When I climbed with John in 77 he hardly drank but I remember see him in the Stoney Cafe drinking Vodka which he had been doing all day while soloing at Ravensdale.
I don't remember him being particularly bitter or troubled about his finger, he just got on with it. He had a brace for straightening it out.
What John appeared to experience was periods of differing mood and now having had nearly 30 years working in Mental Health I have opinions which seem to fit with the John I knew.
Have read this article several times I finally feel I should add something. I climbed with John from the late summer of 1977 and through the winter of 1978 although it became less and less due to working more and climbing less. After this I climbed with him rarely as he then moved to Newcastle.
The last time I climbed with him was at Kyloe in June 1980 the day the Smith brothers did First Born, they were prompted in to doing this as John casually mentioned he'd been as far as the pocket on an on sight attempt. They quickly abbed down cleaned it the led it.
At this time John seemed to be climbing less and less, he had fallen off the Tube at Back Bowden the year before? and decked out, breaking his leg. Alcohol seem to figure in his climbing at this time, Stella the route he did at Howlhirst was named after what he and his climbing partner Richard were drinking at the crag.
When I climbed with John in 77 he hardly drank but I remember see him in the Stoney Cafe drinking Vodka which he had been doing all day while soloing at Ravensdale.
I don't remember him being particularly bitter or troubled about his finger, he just got on with it. He had a brace for straightening it out.
What John appeared to experience was periods of differing mood and now having had nearly 30 years working in Mental Health I have opinions which seem to fit with the John I knew.
Post edited at 15:23
5
In reply to Mick Ward:
I was delighted to see this picture (which I've never seen before), posted by Andy Long yesterday in his gallery, of Syrett and myself in Chamonix in August 1972. It is an extremely good portrayal of the John I remember. (I am less recognisable )
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=272026
I was delighted to see this picture (which I've never seen before), posted by Andy Long yesterday in his gallery, of Syrett and myself in Chamonix in August 1972. It is an extremely good portrayal of the John I remember. (I am less recognisable )
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=272026
2
1
3
1
In reply to webbo:
thanks for the biit about the finger and if he was troubled about it. I had the impression that it was the injury that sparked the problems later on but your post and what steve webster wrote about the finger injury on this forum post in 2004 seem to suggest that may not have been the case.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=102218
"climbed with john in 1978 after his tendon injury and its a myth that it significantly held him back. he had to wear a split on his in injured fingers when he was'nt climbing as they tended to curl as the tendon's were shortened due to scar tissue".
Thanks Mick for posting the article i really enjoyed it and would recommend a read of the article by Steve Dean thats others have mentioned.
http://footlesscrow.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/gritstone-visionary.html
> I don't remember him being particularly bitter or troubled about his finger, he just got on with it. He had a brace for straightening it out.
thanks for the biit about the finger and if he was troubled about it. I had the impression that it was the injury that sparked the problems later on but your post and what steve webster wrote about the finger injury on this forum post in 2004 seem to suggest that may not have been the case.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=102218
"climbed with john in 1978 after his tendon injury and its a myth that it significantly held him back. he had to wear a split on his in injured fingers when he was'nt climbing as they tended to curl as the tendon's were shortened due to scar tissue".
Thanks Mick for posting the article i really enjoyed it and would recommend a read of the article by Steve Dean thats others have mentioned.
http://footlesscrow.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/gritstone-visionary.html
Post edited at 13:44
In reply to Kipper-Phil Smith:
Hi Phil and Niall, many thanks, not seen either of you for way too long. I can feel the lure of 'oop North gently enticing, the grit calling to me across space and time.
Steve's article is superb - well worth everybody reading. On the phone last Sunday I think he mentioned that Jim Perrin had written a really good piece about John in the Almscliff section of the most recent Yorkshire Grit guides.
There's also a poem by Ed Drummond. Years ago, after a Mountaineering Literature Festival at Bretton Hall, I ended up at a party at Terry Gifford's house. Met a lady there (Gwyneth?) who'd been part of the early 70s Leeds team. We were comparing recollections of scary Yorkshire routes and inevitably John's name came up. She mentioned the poem in A Dream of White Horses. When she realised I'd not read it, she found it on Terry's bookshelves and showed it to me. It was obvious that she cared deeply about John.
It's equally obvious from this thread and from other communications that a lot of people cared - and continue to care - about him.
Mick
Hi Phil and Niall, many thanks, not seen either of you for way too long. I can feel the lure of 'oop North gently enticing, the grit calling to me across space and time.
Steve's article is superb - well worth everybody reading. On the phone last Sunday I think he mentioned that Jim Perrin had written a really good piece about John in the Almscliff section of the most recent Yorkshire Grit guides.
There's also a poem by Ed Drummond. Years ago, after a Mountaineering Literature Festival at Bretton Hall, I ended up at a party at Terry Gifford's house. Met a lady there (Gwyneth?) who'd been part of the early 70s Leeds team. We were comparing recollections of scary Yorkshire routes and inevitably John's name came up. She mentioned the poem in A Dream of White Horses. When she realised I'd not read it, she found it on Terry's bookshelves and showed it to me. It was obvious that she cared deeply about John.
It's equally obvious from this thread and from other communications that a lot of people cared - and continue to care - about him.
Mick
1
In reply to Mick Ward:
Gwyneth was Alex McIntyre's girlfriend at that time. Maybe you should read John Porters book about Alex
Gwyneth was Alex McIntyre's girlfriend at that time. Maybe you should read John Porters book about Alex
In reply to webbo:
Am trying to remember now and can't really. Have a vague recollection of Alex's girlfriend in Cham, in '75 I think. Wouldn't have thought this was the same person at all. But sure, time's change, people change...
Mick
Am trying to remember now and can't really. Have a vague recollection of Alex's girlfriend in Cham, in '75 I think. Wouldn't have thought this was the same person at all. But sure, time's change, people change...
Mick
In reply to Mick Ward:
Ah yes - another person who will be missed.
From the very end of the poem-
"Malham cove, a black hole
dreams ahead of me
the last step
I cannot see...
......
He threw himself at her
She snatched him back
A few sheep stared"
Thanks Mick, for the article
> There's also a poem by Ed Drummond.
Ah yes - another person who will be missed.
From the very end of the poem-
"Malham cove, a black hole
dreams ahead of me
the last step
I cannot see...
......
He threw himself at her
She snatched him back
A few sheep stared"
Thanks Mick, for the article
In reply to Mick Ward:
I wasn't suggesting that you had implied a romantic association. I was giving you some back ground information that's all.
> I wasn't implying a romantic association. She cared, that's all.
> Mick
I wasn't suggesting that you had implied a romantic association. I was giving you some back ground information that's all.
In reply to webbo:
And thank you for that. My apologies if I've offended you in any way.
Although the Bradford and Leeds 70s climbing scenes overlapped and there were people, such as Jan B, common to both, they seemed different - so, quite by chance, I met some people and didn't meet others. And, as I'm now painfully realising, my memories of this time have big holes in them (can't think why!)
More importantly perhaps, I've emailed you about a related matter.
Mick
And thank you for that. My apologies if I've offended you in any way.
Although the Bradford and Leeds 70s climbing scenes overlapped and there were people, such as Jan B, common to both, they seemed different - so, quite by chance, I met some people and didn't meet others. And, as I'm now painfully realising, my memories of this time have big holes in them (can't think why!)
More importantly perhaps, I've emailed you about a related matter.
Mick
In reply to telemark:
A belated thank you. This thread's probably showing that memory's playing funny tricks on many of us! As you say though, 'No mistaking the eyes...'
Thanks again.
Mick
> I'm pretty sure it was John... But that was nearly 40 years ago and memory plays funny tricks sometimes.
A belated thank you. This thread's probably showing that memory's playing funny tricks on many of us! As you say though, 'No mistaking the eyes...'
Thanks again.
Mick
In reply to UKC Articles:
< Apologies, meant to write this and add it several days ago but life got in the way. >
Other Men’s Flowers
Some further, probably last thoughts from me, mostly deriving from other people’s observations. ‘I have gathered a posie of other men’s flowers and nothing but the thread that binds them is my own.’ (Montaigne)
More than a week ago, Paul in Sheffield gave us a crucial insight, the one which had effortlessly eluded me for four decades. ‘If you blur out the EBs and 70s gear from the last three pictures, his body positions look very much like a boulderer in the modern idiom.’ That’s exactly what they’re like!
The frog position on Wall of Horrors, the very high heel/toe jam on Jokers Wall and the heel hook on the Mountain front cover shot of Encore were radical departures from almost 100 years of British rock climbing.
As with most people who started climbing in the 60s, I plodded around the hills for years in big mountaineering boots. Outcrops were practice for rock climbing; rock climbing was practice for mountaineering. That’s the way it was.
But that’s the way it wasn’t for John. He did something which is commonplace now but radical then. He started climbing at a climbing wall! Because he wasn’t constrained by all that plodding around in big boots, he could get good fast - and he did. The Leeds uni wall was the right place at the right time - a crucible of talent. Gymnastic ability, suppleness, dedication, peer-group competitiveness and support all fused.
When I saw John Syrett climbing on grit and sandstone, I couldn’t understand his style – dynamic, eclectic, flowing. I was looking for efficiency; what I was seeing was genius. I just didn’t get it.
But, with Paul’s crucial insight, suddenly it’s obvious. Think of a modern bouldering comp with all those volumes, forcing a gymnastic, dynamic, three-dimensional style. John Syrett had that immensely creative style characteristic of modern climbers – but he had it 45 years ago.
The very high foot move on Jokers Wall is the precursor to the ridiculously high foot move on Braille Trail Direct. The padding of the boulders below Propellor Wall is the precursor to pads. John’s purist approach is the precursor to our contemporary ground-up ethic.
Without the tendon injury, what might he have done? Certainly many of the Allen/Bancroft routes such as Profit and Nectar. (All that suppleness… he was made for them!) Probably many of the Dawes routes (inspired body positions, coolness under pressure). Maybe Midnight Lightning. Possibly, just possibly, Changing Corners. If there’s a pitch on the entire planet sculpted for his unique genius, it’s probably Changing Corners.
But none of this was to be. Within two years of John’s accident, there was a slew of first ascents that he’d missed out on. Then there were more… and more…. and more. It must have been galling for him.
He splinted his fingers together and carried on as best he could. But there were probably too many factors against him. As Gordon wrote, ‘He was a very unusual character, mysterious, mercurial, intense and a kind of ‘purist’ in everything he did. Didn’t get on too well with many aspects of the modern world. A complete one-off. And a massively talented climber. A very nice person indeed.’
We inhabit a world which is often uncaring of talent, dismissive of genius. For people who are different in any way, it can be hard to fit in. ‘They hate you if you’re clever and they despise a fool.’ (Lennon) If you don’t fit in, life can be grim. John died in the mid-80s, a brutal decade. The relative innocence of the 70s seemed light years away.
John Syrett showed us the future of climbing; he was so far ahead of his time. He touched the lives of many who remember him fondly. Andy Long’s lovely photo of him with Gordon captures the quick, instinctive joy of youth.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=272026
If John were still with us, he’d be in his mid-60s now. One imagines him running up Fiesta de Los Biceps with Steve Blake and the Smiths… long days out with Stevie Haston… going ground-up on grit, high above pads. And yes, he’d probably assure us that Font 7b is just Yorkshire VS.
Mick
< Apologies, meant to write this and add it several days ago but life got in the way. >
Other Men’s Flowers
Some further, probably last thoughts from me, mostly deriving from other people’s observations. ‘I have gathered a posie of other men’s flowers and nothing but the thread that binds them is my own.’ (Montaigne)
More than a week ago, Paul in Sheffield gave us a crucial insight, the one which had effortlessly eluded me for four decades. ‘If you blur out the EBs and 70s gear from the last three pictures, his body positions look very much like a boulderer in the modern idiom.’ That’s exactly what they’re like!
The frog position on Wall of Horrors, the very high heel/toe jam on Jokers Wall and the heel hook on the Mountain front cover shot of Encore were radical departures from almost 100 years of British rock climbing.
As with most people who started climbing in the 60s, I plodded around the hills for years in big mountaineering boots. Outcrops were practice for rock climbing; rock climbing was practice for mountaineering. That’s the way it was.
But that’s the way it wasn’t for John. He did something which is commonplace now but radical then. He started climbing at a climbing wall! Because he wasn’t constrained by all that plodding around in big boots, he could get good fast - and he did. The Leeds uni wall was the right place at the right time - a crucible of talent. Gymnastic ability, suppleness, dedication, peer-group competitiveness and support all fused.
When I saw John Syrett climbing on grit and sandstone, I couldn’t understand his style – dynamic, eclectic, flowing. I was looking for efficiency; what I was seeing was genius. I just didn’t get it.
But, with Paul’s crucial insight, suddenly it’s obvious. Think of a modern bouldering comp with all those volumes, forcing a gymnastic, dynamic, three-dimensional style. John Syrett had that immensely creative style characteristic of modern climbers – but he had it 45 years ago.
The very high foot move on Jokers Wall is the precursor to the ridiculously high foot move on Braille Trail Direct. The padding of the boulders below Propellor Wall is the precursor to pads. John’s purist approach is the precursor to our contemporary ground-up ethic.
Without the tendon injury, what might he have done? Certainly many of the Allen/Bancroft routes such as Profit and Nectar. (All that suppleness… he was made for them!) Probably many of the Dawes routes (inspired body positions, coolness under pressure). Maybe Midnight Lightning. Possibly, just possibly, Changing Corners. If there’s a pitch on the entire planet sculpted for his unique genius, it’s probably Changing Corners.
But none of this was to be. Within two years of John’s accident, there was a slew of first ascents that he’d missed out on. Then there were more… and more…. and more. It must have been galling for him.
He splinted his fingers together and carried on as best he could. But there were probably too many factors against him. As Gordon wrote, ‘He was a very unusual character, mysterious, mercurial, intense and a kind of ‘purist’ in everything he did. Didn’t get on too well with many aspects of the modern world. A complete one-off. And a massively talented climber. A very nice person indeed.’
We inhabit a world which is often uncaring of talent, dismissive of genius. For people who are different in any way, it can be hard to fit in. ‘They hate you if you’re clever and they despise a fool.’ (Lennon) If you don’t fit in, life can be grim. John died in the mid-80s, a brutal decade. The relative innocence of the 70s seemed light years away.
John Syrett showed us the future of climbing; he was so far ahead of his time. He touched the lives of many who remember him fondly. Andy Long’s lovely photo of him with Gordon captures the quick, instinctive joy of youth.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=272026
If John were still with us, he’d be in his mid-60s now. One imagines him running up Fiesta de Los Biceps with Steve Blake and the Smiths… long days out with Stevie Haston… going ground-up on grit, high above pads. And yes, he’d probably assure us that Font 7b is just Yorkshire VS.
Mick
4
In reply to UKC Articles:
A nice article by Dennis Gray on Footless Crow - http://footlesscrow.blogspot.com
A nice article by Dennis Gray on Footless Crow - http://footlesscrow.blogspot.com
1
In reply to Mick Ward:
Hi Mick. Thanks for the insightful article. I've heard from time to time about John Syrett and his final act, so it's great to get a close-up view.
A great piece, and the follow up post too.
thanks very much
Hi Mick. Thanks for the insightful article. I've heard from time to time about John Syrett and his final act, so it's great to get a close-up view.
A great piece, and the follow up post too.
thanks very much
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