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Learning Curve

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 swifty 09 Mar 2016
Hey,

So I have been climbing 1/2 sessions a week at a local climbing gym since the end of November. Really enjoying it and have been slowly working my way up the grades. Started out top roping 5b+ and I am now lead climbing 6b (apologies if this grading system is wrong, its what they use in my gym). But it appears I have hit a wall. I can't seem to push myself to a 6c. And being so close to 7 this really frustrates me! I have been trying for about 2 month to get past this grade..

Originally I thought this was down to my strength, but I can fly up and down a campus board pretty well compared to some other people I have seen who are climbing at this level.. So I am guessing this is all down to technique. I find myself climbing allot of the time dynamically rather than static. It's like I don't have much control in my movement compared to over climbers I've seen.

Any tips on technique?

Also what is the general learning curve with these grades? I know I should not get frustrated but I can't help it! I am going to try to focus on not pushing myself to much and relaxing more, but any tips from you guys would be awesome!

Thanks Guys

Swifty
 tehmarks 09 Mar 2016
In reply to swifty:

If you're climbing 6b (or thereabouts) after only a couple of months it's probably with relatively unrefined technique, made up for by brute force. As you climb harder and harder grades, this approach stops working; you need the technique. I'd back off on pushing the grade and really work on your movement. Bouldering more might help - bouldering is particularly good for that sort of thing.
In reply to swifty:

Hi Swifty, I think you've identified the problem. Anyone flying up the campus board should be flying up the 7s at the wall too. Certainly technique, and maybe also some core lacking.
Bouldering is the de facto best way to improve and work at technique. Also, if you can, spend some time climbing at other walls with different route setters. Get a copy of Dave Mac's '9 out of 10 climbers', identify your weaknesses and work on them. Redpoint 7s, get used to pushing it out and falling lots.
Keep us updated how it goes!
Paul
In reply to swifty:

Progression through the grades isn't a nice straight line, its a curve that starts off rising quickly and gradually flattens off as you approach your limit and occasionally goes down as well as up.

If you've only been climbing a few months take it easy on the campus board. Tendons don't get strong as quickly as muscles. Finger and elbow injuries are extremely common if you push too hard.

My guess is that you've got where strength will take you quickly and you now need balance and technique to get to 6c and that will take longer to acquire. Climb slabs and climb easier routes but focusing on doing everything smoothly, silently and with minimum energy rather than just crushing it with brute force.
 GridNorth 09 Mar 2016
In reply to swifty:

There is a technique called "silent feet" where you attempt to place your feet without making any noise, most novices tend to bang and clutter up the wall. Concentrate on your feet more than your hands, in fact I would say over concentrate, so much so that you almost forget about the handholds.

Al
OP swifty 09 Mar 2016
Guy's this is some amazing advice. I am going to take a step away from the grades and focus on pure technique. When i started climbing i assumed that if I get the strength, the technique will just happen naturally... MASSIVE error!! It is defiantly the other way round. Paul- Going to look into the book 9 out of 10 climbers. GridNorth- placing my feet is not a silent transition for me.. this will be a good area to start.

I was pretty worried I would get loads of hate from this post but you have been all so helpful!

I will keep you updated

Swifty
 Matt Poole 09 Mar 2016
In reply to swifty:
Technique training definitely in order here mate, silent feet good. Other techniques could be never grabbing a hold above your head height (works feet technique and body position & stops dynamic movements) or use the technique where you don't adjust hand holds once grabbed, this slows you down and makes you think about how each hold will work best to hold and move through.
Hit the boulder wall every 2/3 roped sessions too.
Post edited at 14:56
In reply to swifty:
Swifty, just fit context, I got into the 7s at a time I was unable to do pull-ups ....
In reply to swifty:
> ... but I can fly up and down a campus board pretty well compared to some other people I have seen who are climbing at this level.

I that case you're stronger than me - my best efforts at campus boarding go 1-3-4-fall off. I cannot go footless to save my life. Arm strength is likely not a problem - but finger strength, or the technical ability to subvert insufficient finger strength, might be.

Personally, I would get bouldering. Maybe do mileage on "first-go problems" to warm-up and hone smooth movement patterns. And then, spend time working problems at / just beyond your limit - problems that will require umpteen goes to succeed (if you ever do) - to build finger strength and to refine the techniques required to wring the most out of your existing strength and stamina.
 jkarran 09 Mar 2016
In reply to swifty:

You're strong enough, now you need to learn to climb

Getting up stuff a few grades harder isn't about doing the moves, they're rarely that hard, it's about getting into the right positions for the moves efficiently and quickly, learning to take the load off your arms, learning how and when to rest even if only partially and when to push on. You also have to lose the fear of falling so you're totally uninhibited when it's safe to be.

I'd suggest taking 10-15min as part of your warm up at the start of your session to simply move around on the wall, mostly easy moves on mostly vertical ish terrain taking in some corners, grooves, whatever the wall has to add interest. Don't worry if you have to step off and walk to another section occasionally. Take your time and focus on moving slowly and deliberately without getting physically stressed, on each set of holds find the grip and body positions that free the limb you want to move and facilitate placing it efficiently under total control. Try the moves facing in different directions, don't be afraid to get it wrong or fail, just note what works and doesn't while maintaining control. Experiment with the wall's features and body positions that allow you to rest, to free up both hands or shake them out sequentially. It's all about learning to move smoothly and deliberately on easier holds so the various positions and gestures you'll need later when pushed are deeply ingrained. It's also a pretty good start to a warm-up and useful for injury prevention.

FWIW I've never been able to use a campus board let alone fly up one and it never really held me back as much as my fitness did.
jk

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