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AJM apologises but is currently somewhere on Dartmoor without his laptop. This is a fitclub holding message until he's back in civilization and can put up his motivational feedback for you all!
1
In reply to hms: Firstly, sorry for confusing everyone by posting from my old UKC account last week.
Have now made the switch back to rock and have just got back from a very sunny Brean Down.
M - Ben Nevis, Harrison's Climb Direct (IV 4) into Boomer's Requiem (V 5) then abseiled, plus the first pitch of Gemini (VI 6).
T - Beinn a' Bheithir - Sgorr Dhonuill, No match for climb id:41045 (repeat)
W - Bidean nam Bian - Stob Coire nam Beith. Got beaten to Deep Cut Chimney so did a couple of random pitches of grade III+ on the opposite side to the Coire.
T - travel South
F & S - rest
S - Brean Down. Retro flash of Bikini Atoll (6c+) & Pearl Harbour (7a). However, I then needed 3 tie-ins on The Root of Inequity (7a+) just to get a sequence sorted followed by a half-hearted look at El Chocco (7c). A decent enough training session and a glorious day to be out.
Have now made the switch back to rock and have just got back from a very sunny Brean Down.
M - Ben Nevis, Harrison's Climb Direct (IV 4) into Boomer's Requiem (V 5) then abseiled, plus the first pitch of Gemini (VI 6).
T - Beinn a' Bheithir - Sgorr Dhonuill, No match for climb id:41045 (repeat)
W - Bidean nam Bian - Stob Coire nam Beith. Got beaten to Deep Cut Chimney so did a couple of random pitches of grade III+ on the opposite side to the Coire.
T - travel South
F & S - rest
S - Brean Down. Retro flash of Bikini Atoll (6c+) & Pearl Harbour (7a). However, I then needed 3 tie-ins on The Root of Inequity (7a+) just to get a sequence sorted followed by a half-hearted look at El Chocco (7c). A decent enough training session and a glorious day to be out.
2
In reply to hms:
Cheers in advance AJM and thanks for the hold HMS. Too many TLA’s!
The clock is ticking now with 3 weeks until I go away.
Not a bad week. Sorted out an aero pow session on Monday. 1 min on 1 min off foot on campus board. 5 min rest then repeat for 3 sets. Owch! Is all I can say about that. My coach has sent me a renewed training matrix involving 4x20 moves with 10-20s rest between and 3 sets. That’s less intense than FOC, but less rest too. May be interesting and more suited to the Depot circuit boards I think. Probably do the less intense stuff for 2 weeks then on taper week just do two sessions of FOC.
Tuesday my partner and I fancied a change so went to MCC. Routes on the main wall were ok, elsewhere was decidedly less than average, with some truly disgusting 7a’s on the opposite wall. On-sighted up to 6c on the main wall but came un-stuck on a Steve Mc 7a. That thing has never seen 7a in it’s life! Great route but the last 5 or 6 moves were ridiculous, in my opinion of course. Don’t think I’ll bother going back, but I worked hard.
Wednesday was routes with The Fox. He was suffering from a 4 day whiskey tour and I was tired from 3 days on and a couple of nights bad sleep. No great shakes but again I tried hard and came away pumped. Had another look at the 7b, sadly it gets harder as it gets higher. But a nice route and I’m still psyched to get pumped and fall off on it.
Friday I did an aero pow ish session on the fingerboard. Not ideal but all i could manage. Did repeaters 7sec on 3 sec off for 1 min. 1min rest then back on for 3 sets. Repeated that 3 times. It certainly got me pumped so if it’s dead on aero pow or not it did something.
Going to do the same workout this evening.
Been experimenting with high fat/low carb diet this week. Target of under 100g carbs a day. Trickier than it sounds. Been away from my scales for the last 3 days but it was showing some good signs. I’m using it as an easy way to eat less calories. You don’t feel hungry and also don’t get the keto bonk that happens if you go carb free. You can have some carbs before exercising too. Best day so far as I’m on 1100cal and that’s only because I made myself eat lunch. I could have gone without. I realise that’s too low btw and will eat more later, but there are no sugar crashes, no feeling hungry (you can actually forget to eat) and I get to eat loads of cheese
Aero pow is the priority next week. 2 sessions at the depot I think. Got a day lined up at Parisellas next Tuesday with a couple of serious wads. Should be interesting to say the least. I reckon there’s one problem there that I can do in a session. Not in anyway relevant to Chulilla but an invite I couldn’t say no to. I’ve never been before and would also like to check out LPT, if it’s not under water.
This weeks targets:
Body fat readings – lose 2lbs and .5% bf
2 x circuit/aero pow sessions.
Not embarrass myself in front of wads at the cave – they’re really nice guys actually so I’m sure I’ll be fine.
Cheers in advance AJM and thanks for the hold HMS. Too many TLA’s!
The clock is ticking now with 3 weeks until I go away.
Not a bad week. Sorted out an aero pow session on Monday. 1 min on 1 min off foot on campus board. 5 min rest then repeat for 3 sets. Owch! Is all I can say about that. My coach has sent me a renewed training matrix involving 4x20 moves with 10-20s rest between and 3 sets. That’s less intense than FOC, but less rest too. May be interesting and more suited to the Depot circuit boards I think. Probably do the less intense stuff for 2 weeks then on taper week just do two sessions of FOC.
Tuesday my partner and I fancied a change so went to MCC. Routes on the main wall were ok, elsewhere was decidedly less than average, with some truly disgusting 7a’s on the opposite wall. On-sighted up to 6c on the main wall but came un-stuck on a Steve Mc 7a. That thing has never seen 7a in it’s life! Great route but the last 5 or 6 moves were ridiculous, in my opinion of course. Don’t think I’ll bother going back, but I worked hard.
Wednesday was routes with The Fox. He was suffering from a 4 day whiskey tour and I was tired from 3 days on and a couple of nights bad sleep. No great shakes but again I tried hard and came away pumped. Had another look at the 7b, sadly it gets harder as it gets higher. But a nice route and I’m still psyched to get pumped and fall off on it.
Friday I did an aero pow ish session on the fingerboard. Not ideal but all i could manage. Did repeaters 7sec on 3 sec off for 1 min. 1min rest then back on for 3 sets. Repeated that 3 times. It certainly got me pumped so if it’s dead on aero pow or not it did something.
Going to do the same workout this evening.
Been experimenting with high fat/low carb diet this week. Target of under 100g carbs a day. Trickier than it sounds. Been away from my scales for the last 3 days but it was showing some good signs. I’m using it as an easy way to eat less calories. You don’t feel hungry and also don’t get the keto bonk that happens if you go carb free. You can have some carbs before exercising too. Best day so far as I’m on 1100cal and that’s only because I made myself eat lunch. I could have gone without. I realise that’s too low btw and will eat more later, but there are no sugar crashes, no feeling hungry (you can actually forget to eat) and I get to eat loads of cheese
Aero pow is the priority next week. 2 sessions at the depot I think. Got a day lined up at Parisellas next Tuesday with a couple of serious wads. Should be interesting to say the least. I reckon there’s one problem there that I can do in a session. Not in anyway relevant to Chulilla but an invite I couldn’t say no to. I’ve never been before and would also like to check out LPT, if it’s not under water.
This weeks targets:
Body fat readings – lose 2lbs and .5% bf
2 x circuit/aero pow sessions.
Not embarrass myself in front of wads at the cave – they’re really nice guys actually so I’m sure I’ll be fine.
1
In reply to hms:
Thanks! With this sort of disorganisation you'll be glad to be rid of me for a bit and have someone else kicking everything off!
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=636110
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week:
I'm too disorganised. Suggestions please?
Posters:
biscuit - all about beating Tyler AeroPow foot on campus is effective but brutal
Si dH - tip worn through on the first day - noooo.....
stevemarkperry - hows that foot going - still getting looser?
JayK - out of curiousity, how much assistance do you need for assisted one-armers and on what sort of hold (is that on the crimps/slopers you mentioned?)
alexm198 - how was Cham? Thanks for agreeing to hold the fort for a bit!
TonyB - how did the bent leg levers turn out - more level?
Robin Brooke - at least you've got a solid diagnosis, thats the important thing
Mark Stevenson - Hadrians Wall always looked like a cool line
hms - assessment isn't meant to be easy! Good to get out yesterday...
Tyler - solid justification for being beaten by biscuit
Joyce - must have been good getting out to the slug again eh?
Curious Yellow - sounds manic.....
Dandan82 - thanks also for the offer of taking over for a bit. Sounds like a positive week
Emily - +20kg weighted pullups is good going!
Ian Bell - how did the coaching session go?
Ally Smith - lurgy free yet?
planetmarshall - transitioning is always tough to start off
mattrm - glad the psyche is coming back
cha1n - good day out Sunday even if you didn't spend too long on Flatworld
James Moyle - good news on the partners front
Humperdink - running in the hail is way too dedicated
Nick Russell - enjoy Margalef!
hokkyokusei - sounds like a good trip for the psyche even if the climbing volume was less than youd hoped
Just Tintin - continuity is a bit dull. But hey, if it were fun and exciting we'd all do loads of it and be enduro monsters!
flopsicle - busy week!
0.5viking - I tried kitesurfing when we first arrived down here and was rubbish at it - need to try again some day
Thanks! With this sort of disorganisation you'll be glad to be rid of me for a bit and have someone else kicking everything off!
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=636110
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week:
I'm too disorganised. Suggestions please?
Posters:
biscuit - all about beating Tyler AeroPow foot on campus is effective but brutal
Si dH - tip worn through on the first day - noooo.....
stevemarkperry - hows that foot going - still getting looser?
JayK - out of curiousity, how much assistance do you need for assisted one-armers and on what sort of hold (is that on the crimps/slopers you mentioned?)
alexm198 - how was Cham? Thanks for agreeing to hold the fort for a bit!
TonyB - how did the bent leg levers turn out - more level?
Robin Brooke - at least you've got a solid diagnosis, thats the important thing
Mark Stevenson - Hadrians Wall always looked like a cool line
hms - assessment isn't meant to be easy! Good to get out yesterday...
Tyler - solid justification for being beaten by biscuit
Joyce - must have been good getting out to the slug again eh?
Curious Yellow - sounds manic.....
Dandan82 - thanks also for the offer of taking over for a bit. Sounds like a positive week
Emily - +20kg weighted pullups is good going!
Ian Bell - how did the coaching session go?
Ally Smith - lurgy free yet?
planetmarshall - transitioning is always tough to start off
mattrm - glad the psyche is coming back
cha1n - good day out Sunday even if you didn't spend too long on Flatworld
James Moyle - good news on the partners front
Humperdink - running in the hail is way too dedicated
Nick Russell - enjoy Margalef!
hokkyokusei - sounds like a good trip for the psyche even if the climbing volume was less than youd hoped
Just Tintin - continuity is a bit dull. But hey, if it were fun and exciting we'd all do loads of it and be enduro monsters!
flopsicle - busy week!
0.5viking - I tried kitesurfing when we first arrived down here and was rubbish at it - need to try again some day
1
In reply to biscuit:
7/3 - still getting over illness
8/3 - fingerboard3. 10s hangs on the small BM2k edges at 89.0kg (+15.7kg), 90.2kg, fail at 91.6kg (~8s?). Then continuous hangs of 43s and 48s from an 18mm edge.
9/3 - wall. Board session. Progress on a new problem but my ability to repeat the old ones was abysmal - a real lesson in how much its all about timing deadpoints on that sort of thing. When everythings perfect its easy, when its not..... Also some assisted one-armers, down to 6.25kg roughly tracking a drop in weight. Thats 8.6% assistance based on a weighin when I got home
10/3 - wall, but feeling rubbish. Did a few things but headed home pretty swiftly and went to bed early
11/3 - rest
12/3 - Ansteys with hms. A couple of burns on Cider Soak, which is a lot shorter and a lot steeper than I remembered it being and, unlike how it looks in the videos, has very few easy moves on it. Its also oddly bolted - after falling off onto the first bolt and clocking the ledge I think I'm going first 2 preclipped. Top was wet for most of the day so could only work bits of the section above the rest jugs. Best efforts were going through the first boulder from the ground to the holds by the second (which always looks piss on videos but is actually quite hard!), going from those holds to the sika-ed crimp but failing to unwind, and going from not-yet-unwound on the crimp to the rest jugs. Be a tough one to put together mind you! Back on it in April.
13/3 am - an hour or so at Bonehill first thing. Ticked off a few bits and bobs. Some progress on my nemesis arete (some 6B+ thing which is just desperate) although video beta suggests I've been doing it wrong anyway. Then a few goes on The Wave - does anyone know what the kosher start position on this is? I was starting both hands in the lower break which leaves a desperate move to the holds in the higher break. Some videos and the description on UKC suggest that you can start with one hand in the high break (why only when you can reach with both).
13/3 pm - biking. 76.6km, 1258m ascent but that included some walking. Sadly I've lost a gear or two of fitness so the steep hills out of Sidmouth (1.2km @13%) and the next one over into Beer (0.8km @12%) were just too much. Managed the rest albeit quite slowly. Lovely weather.
Not a bad week.
- Hopefully todays walking shame will inspire me to put some more effort in to train when I get back from Bishop.
- Not a bad first outing on Cider Soak, although still quite a long way to go.
- New PB on the fingerboard - I think I trumped even my best efforts from years gone by with Tuesdays session. Admittedly its driven by the low weight but the assisted 1-arm result was good too, falling more into Toms benchmark now that I'm approaching what I'd consider to be peak weight. Not as low as I'd hoped but illness probably put paid to that.
- progress on the granite this morning too. I can hang the lower break holds on The Wave but just not sure whether you're meant to slap the next move or not and didn't want to risk trashing a tip.
- toe seems relatively ok, a bit sore still but nothing insurmountable.
Flying on Thursday, climbing in Bishop on Saturday!
7/3 - still getting over illness
8/3 - fingerboard3. 10s hangs on the small BM2k edges at 89.0kg (+15.7kg), 90.2kg, fail at 91.6kg (~8s?). Then continuous hangs of 43s and 48s from an 18mm edge.
9/3 - wall. Board session. Progress on a new problem but my ability to repeat the old ones was abysmal - a real lesson in how much its all about timing deadpoints on that sort of thing. When everythings perfect its easy, when its not..... Also some assisted one-armers, down to 6.25kg roughly tracking a drop in weight. Thats 8.6% assistance based on a weighin when I got home
10/3 - wall, but feeling rubbish. Did a few things but headed home pretty swiftly and went to bed early
11/3 - rest
12/3 - Ansteys with hms. A couple of burns on Cider Soak, which is a lot shorter and a lot steeper than I remembered it being and, unlike how it looks in the videos, has very few easy moves on it. Its also oddly bolted - after falling off onto the first bolt and clocking the ledge I think I'm going first 2 preclipped. Top was wet for most of the day so could only work bits of the section above the rest jugs. Best efforts were going through the first boulder from the ground to the holds by the second (which always looks piss on videos but is actually quite hard!), going from those holds to the sika-ed crimp but failing to unwind, and going from not-yet-unwound on the crimp to the rest jugs. Be a tough one to put together mind you! Back on it in April.
13/3 am - an hour or so at Bonehill first thing. Ticked off a few bits and bobs. Some progress on my nemesis arete (some 6B+ thing which is just desperate) although video beta suggests I've been doing it wrong anyway. Then a few goes on The Wave - does anyone know what the kosher start position on this is? I was starting both hands in the lower break which leaves a desperate move to the holds in the higher break. Some videos and the description on UKC suggest that you can start with one hand in the high break (why only when you can reach with both).
13/3 pm - biking. 76.6km, 1258m ascent but that included some walking. Sadly I've lost a gear or two of fitness so the steep hills out of Sidmouth (1.2km @13%) and the next one over into Beer (0.8km @12%) were just too much. Managed the rest albeit quite slowly. Lovely weather.
Not a bad week.
- Hopefully todays walking shame will inspire me to put some more effort in to train when I get back from Bishop.
- Not a bad first outing on Cider Soak, although still quite a long way to go.
- New PB on the fingerboard - I think I trumped even my best efforts from years gone by with Tuesdays session. Admittedly its driven by the low weight but the assisted 1-arm result was good too, falling more into Toms benchmark now that I'm approaching what I'd consider to be peak weight. Not as low as I'd hoped but illness probably put paid to that.
- progress on the granite this morning too. I can hang the lower break holds on The Wave but just not sure whether you're meant to slap the next move or not and didn't want to risk trashing a tip.
- toe seems relatively ok, a bit sore still but nothing insurmountable.
Flying on Thursday, climbing in Bishop on Saturday!
Post edited at 21:12
1
In reply to hms:
I know the whole point of an assessment is that it isn't going to be a walk in the park, and I really did put everything I'd got into it. Should be useful to highlight strengths & weaknesses.
M - cycle commute. Ancap, fingerboard 10/3/4/3, 8 sets with +5kg. Incredibly tough - ditched the extra weight after about 5 sets.
T - cycle commute. Suffering from the ancap with both shoulders whinging, so then lots of rehab in the evening.
W - cycle commute. UCR in evening. Pairs 6b 6b / 6c 6b+ / 7a 7a / 7a 6c / 7a 6b+, then an attempt to do some low intensity aerocap routes in x3 with 5 min rest between: 6a, 6a+, 6a. Should probably have been x4 but belayer's patience limited!
T - cycle commute. Evening: Tom R core session x 1, plus a few pressups, various S&C weights etc.
F - 4 miles urban walking, but planned TCA session got shelved when the vet mucked me about on appoinment time and then was running 50mins late. Felt like a wasted day, but let's call it 'rest'.
S - Ansteys, trying Cider Soak. About 12m long, overhanging, bit traversey, not an easy move on it. Tried to TR - can't be done. Worked first bit with 2nd bolt of Poppy in as better line for first part. Totally shut down on a couple of moves. Then tried the next 2 bolts. Starting to get some of the moves but can't get to to wet pocket. In the evening I rewatched the Alex Waterhouse video as he isn't v tall - basically same sequence but he used some intermediates, esp getting to the pocket, so other things to try. Can safely say that this route does not play to my current strengths!
S - TCA. Romped round all the reds as fast as possible as a warmup. Few goes on some of the blacks I can't do but no breakthroughs. Circuits: 6b+, 6c, 6b+ back to back. 10 mins rest then a sort of truncated ancap session: I made up a pretty hard 15 move problem on the circuit board, then repeated it with 2 min rests for ~8 times, by which time I was exhausted. 3x5c circuit to warm down. Went home, had nap!
so Cider Soak was interesting, wish the links had been longer than 2-3 moves but more stuff to try. Need to perfect the foot positions as then I'm sure I'll get some better progress.
I know the whole point of an assessment is that it isn't going to be a walk in the park, and I really did put everything I'd got into it. Should be useful to highlight strengths & weaknesses.
M - cycle commute. Ancap, fingerboard 10/3/4/3, 8 sets with +5kg. Incredibly tough - ditched the extra weight after about 5 sets.
T - cycle commute. Suffering from the ancap with both shoulders whinging, so then lots of rehab in the evening.
W - cycle commute. UCR in evening. Pairs 6b 6b / 6c 6b+ / 7a 7a / 7a 6c / 7a 6b+, then an attempt to do some low intensity aerocap routes in x3 with 5 min rest between: 6a, 6a+, 6a. Should probably have been x4 but belayer's patience limited!
T - cycle commute. Evening: Tom R core session x 1, plus a few pressups, various S&C weights etc.
F - 4 miles urban walking, but planned TCA session got shelved when the vet mucked me about on appoinment time and then was running 50mins late. Felt like a wasted day, but let's call it 'rest'.
S - Ansteys, trying Cider Soak. About 12m long, overhanging, bit traversey, not an easy move on it. Tried to TR - can't be done. Worked first bit with 2nd bolt of Poppy in as better line for first part. Totally shut down on a couple of moves. Then tried the next 2 bolts. Starting to get some of the moves but can't get to to wet pocket. In the evening I rewatched the Alex Waterhouse video as he isn't v tall - basically same sequence but he used some intermediates, esp getting to the pocket, so other things to try. Can safely say that this route does not play to my current strengths!
S - TCA. Romped round all the reds as fast as possible as a warmup. Few goes on some of the blacks I can't do but no breakthroughs. Circuits: 6b+, 6c, 6b+ back to back. 10 mins rest then a sort of truncated ancap session: I made up a pretty hard 15 move problem on the circuit board, then repeated it with 2 min rests for ~8 times, by which time I was exhausted. 3x5c circuit to warm down. Went home, had nap!
so Cider Soak was interesting, wish the links had been longer than 2-3 moves but more stuff to try. Need to perfect the foot positions as then I'm sure I'll get some better progress.
2
In reply to hms:
Just looked at that video of Alex - he goes off that more miserable higher crimp above the sika one doesn't he? Wouldn't be my choice, but then that is rather your forte!
Just looked at that video of Alex - he goes off that more miserable higher crimp above the sika one doesn't he? Wouldn't be my choice, but then that is rather your forte!
In reply to hms+AJM:
It's such an incredible bit of cliff isn't it!
OK my assisted one armers are a little bit cheaty as I can't be arsed to set up the pulley system we've got at the wall. Instead I use a finger or two on the shittest two finger slopey pocket to stop myself spinning (alternatively I pinch between thumb and finger the side of the deep crimp. I'm currently only trying to do repeaters on the bottom middle crimp (the good one on the 2K). Felt way easier this week after the two weighted BM sessions last week.
I can definitely tell I'm building the strength back up. I think the biggest noticeable improvement is my PE though. Gutted I can't make it down to Portland next week as it would have been a good test to see how I was getting on.
M-Rest
T-Short bouldering session, felt terrible.
W-Felt great. General bouldering followed by a harder Beastmaker session than previous without weight vest. Followed this with foot on campussing 3 min on 3 off for 4 sets. Followed by 3 sets of core. Great session.
T-Rest
F-Felt terrible again but managed some general bouldering and a bit of endurance-y stuff.
S-Rest
S-First Grit for almost a year. Managed Domes Sit relatively quickly - 4th or 5th go from the start (I doubt I'd ever have been able to do this without beta). Headed to Burbage and did Monochrome and Monobulge. Both were really good. It was a bonus to get a few ticks but the real win was being out in the sun and enjoying it all again. Excellent.
It's such an incredible bit of cliff isn't it!
OK my assisted one armers are a little bit cheaty as I can't be arsed to set up the pulley system we've got at the wall. Instead I use a finger or two on the shittest two finger slopey pocket to stop myself spinning (alternatively I pinch between thumb and finger the side of the deep crimp. I'm currently only trying to do repeaters on the bottom middle crimp (the good one on the 2K). Felt way easier this week after the two weighted BM sessions last week.
I can definitely tell I'm building the strength back up. I think the biggest noticeable improvement is my PE though. Gutted I can't make it down to Portland next week as it would have been a good test to see how I was getting on.
M-Rest
T-Short bouldering session, felt terrible.
W-Felt great. General bouldering followed by a harder Beastmaker session than previous without weight vest. Followed this with foot on campussing 3 min on 3 off for 4 sets. Followed by 3 sets of core. Great session.
T-Rest
F-Felt terrible again but managed some general bouldering and a bit of endurance-y stuff.
S-Rest
S-First Grit for almost a year. Managed Domes Sit relatively quickly - 4th or 5th go from the start (I doubt I'd ever have been able to do this without beta). Headed to Burbage and did Monochrome and Monobulge. Both were really good. It was a bonus to get a few ticks but the real win was being out in the sun and enjoying it all again. Excellent.
Post edited at 21:34
1
In reply to hms:
Morning Campers,
It's always a good day on the Slug! Must've been a tad under the weather last week as this week's been a good 'un!
Training Diary WC 08/03/16
Strength Cycle/ Wk 1 (abandoned An-Cap as need a strength boost pre-Underhand this Easter).
Ooh, Exciting Stuff!
Monday – Work
Tuesday – Strength Session: warm up included core and press ups inc. using gym ball. Max hangs on BM2000: weakest grip first: middle 2 finger open hand (18mm pocket) – hangs 1-4 body weight (BW) – 1.8kg (98%BW) for full 10s. Grip 2: 35˚ sloper: hangs 1-4 BW +18.9kg (125% BW)for 10s. Finally, grip 3: 4 finger half crimp on 18mm edge: hang 1 at BW + 26.8kg (1%BW) for 10s then hangs 2-4 at BW + 22.2kg (136%) for 10s. Then pull up pyramids (1 rep per min) 1 to 4, 4+1, 4 to 1, various grips with weaker grips on lower reps –all bodyweight. Knee raises – 3 sets: 13, 15, 17 with 2m rest. Front levers (one leg fully bent): 3 sets 2 x 3s with 3m between sets. Not super form at all and failed on last set. Followed by work.
Wednesday – Parents Evening then Easy Run: 8.9km in 41:33 at 4:40m/km. GAP 4:35m/km as 119m of ascent. Late night, windy and good to get the legs waving about after a week or two off.
Thursday - Parents Evening then Aero-Pow in Supershed. Tested out the newly tweaked pink circuit. It used to be 6b+/6c and not really pumpy. Now, it’s pumpier and way harder (7a+?). It’s also got a crux at the end that is similar to bits of The Loop. So, Aero-Pow, 1 on, 1 off for 4 mins. Turns out the circuit is hard on the shoulders too, good news and is definitely top end Aero-Pow. Unfortunately, I lost my pump near the end as my right foot kept slipping off of small holds. Checked my boot afterwards and the rubber had worn through under the big toe, that explains that then. Tried some Aero-Cap afterwards, only managed 5 ½ mins on, 5 ½ mins off x 3 sets as got spanked on the pink.
Friday – Wheelbarrowed 2.6 tonnes of hardcore up the garden to the big patio. Then a sneaky extra Supershed session. Dapped some screw on jibs on the 35’ panel and then spent a good 90 mins mucking about on crimpy/flattie/slopey flattie hold doing big moves on the big ‘olds and smaller moves on the smaller ones. Gurt lush.
Saturday – Raked last night’s gravel. Late night run: Extended Intervals (on local Strava segments): easy pace between segments (3 at approx. 0.7km (one up a 1 in 7 hill) and 1 0.3km sprint to finish. Managed to take the Course Record on all four segements. Stoked as have had a couple of goes at each of these segments recently and missed out – still, they might not last long . Overall, 7km in 32:40 at 4:38m/km pace. GAP 4:25m/km as 166m of ascent.
Sunday – Climbing biathlon… Academic (8a) with Cha1n in the hot midday March sun. Worked out the traverse but need to link it. From the decent jug at the end of the traverse made it to the third last hold of the crux before I got ‘lost’ and dropped off. Felt awesome, super tech and right up my street. I am very excited to get back on this soon (hopefully, on a cooler day). Thanks to Cha1n for the beta. Only got two goes on the rope each as I was on a time limit as needed to get to Bloc to climb with the Good Lady Wife. Made a tiny amount of progress on the blue 7A slopey job on the Comp Wall as well as sending one or two easier slopey problems. Pretty wasted after all that. Later, tamped the hardcore in the back garden (ready for a patio now).
Short Term Goals
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+ - reset done – it features a replica (ish) of the Loop crux. Hard Aero-Pow, will get better on it.
Slopers, slopers, slopers, heel hooks, heel to hand matches, getting feet up and onto hand holds following a cut loose on overhangs, long locks between moves (and other weaknesses) – some slopers and heel to hand at Bloc.
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability – yup, progress and lots of falls on lead while going for it.
At least one fingerboard session a week - yup.
Write a new training plan – it’s in my head, just need to get it written down – nope.
Add in 2 sessions of ‘pull muscles’ strength training to max hangs sessions – one (ish).
3 Core sessions featuring the best of DanDan’s workout and L hangs, knee raises, windscreen wipers and front lever thangs – one.
Medium Term Goals
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’ (nope – will get on it next time out).
Climb Underhand (7B+) at Almscliff – peak for Easter
Implement and stick to the new training plan – yup!
Build fitness and speed for another 5K PB attempt in late April.
Academic (8a): - good progress on working out the moves.
Weight: 70.4kg.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
It's always a good day on the Slug! Must've been a tad under the weather last week as this week's been a good 'un!
Training Diary WC 08/03/16
Strength Cycle/ Wk 1 (abandoned An-Cap as need a strength boost pre-Underhand this Easter).
Ooh, Exciting Stuff!
Monday – Work
Tuesday – Strength Session: warm up included core and press ups inc. using gym ball. Max hangs on BM2000: weakest grip first: middle 2 finger open hand (18mm pocket) – hangs 1-4 body weight (BW) – 1.8kg (98%BW) for full 10s. Grip 2: 35˚ sloper: hangs 1-4 BW +18.9kg (125% BW)for 10s. Finally, grip 3: 4 finger half crimp on 18mm edge: hang 1 at BW + 26.8kg (1%BW) for 10s then hangs 2-4 at BW + 22.2kg (136%) for 10s. Then pull up pyramids (1 rep per min) 1 to 4, 4+1, 4 to 1, various grips with weaker grips on lower reps –all bodyweight. Knee raises – 3 sets: 13, 15, 17 with 2m rest. Front levers (one leg fully bent): 3 sets 2 x 3s with 3m between sets. Not super form at all and failed on last set. Followed by work.
Wednesday – Parents Evening then Easy Run: 8.9km in 41:33 at 4:40m/km. GAP 4:35m/km as 119m of ascent. Late night, windy and good to get the legs waving about after a week or two off.
Thursday - Parents Evening then Aero-Pow in Supershed. Tested out the newly tweaked pink circuit. It used to be 6b+/6c and not really pumpy. Now, it’s pumpier and way harder (7a+?). It’s also got a crux at the end that is similar to bits of The Loop. So, Aero-Pow, 1 on, 1 off for 4 mins. Turns out the circuit is hard on the shoulders too, good news and is definitely top end Aero-Pow. Unfortunately, I lost my pump near the end as my right foot kept slipping off of small holds. Checked my boot afterwards and the rubber had worn through under the big toe, that explains that then. Tried some Aero-Cap afterwards, only managed 5 ½ mins on, 5 ½ mins off x 3 sets as got spanked on the pink.
Friday – Wheelbarrowed 2.6 tonnes of hardcore up the garden to the big patio. Then a sneaky extra Supershed session. Dapped some screw on jibs on the 35’ panel and then spent a good 90 mins mucking about on crimpy/flattie/slopey flattie hold doing big moves on the big ‘olds and smaller moves on the smaller ones. Gurt lush.
Saturday – Raked last night’s gravel. Late night run: Extended Intervals (on local Strava segments): easy pace between segments (3 at approx. 0.7km (one up a 1 in 7 hill) and 1 0.3km sprint to finish. Managed to take the Course Record on all four segements. Stoked as have had a couple of goes at each of these segments recently and missed out – still, they might not last long . Overall, 7km in 32:40 at 4:38m/km pace. GAP 4:25m/km as 166m of ascent.
Sunday – Climbing biathlon… Academic (8a) with Cha1n in the hot midday March sun. Worked out the traverse but need to link it. From the decent jug at the end of the traverse made it to the third last hold of the crux before I got ‘lost’ and dropped off. Felt awesome, super tech and right up my street. I am very excited to get back on this soon (hopefully, on a cooler day). Thanks to Cha1n for the beta. Only got two goes on the rope each as I was on a time limit as needed to get to Bloc to climb with the Good Lady Wife. Made a tiny amount of progress on the blue 7A slopey job on the Comp Wall as well as sending one or two easier slopey problems. Pretty wasted after all that. Later, tamped the hardcore in the back garden (ready for a patio now).
Short Term Goals
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+ - reset done – it features a replica (ish) of the Loop crux. Hard Aero-Pow, will get better on it.
Slopers, slopers, slopers, heel hooks, heel to hand matches, getting feet up and onto hand holds following a cut loose on overhangs, long locks between moves (and other weaknesses) – some slopers and heel to hand at Bloc.
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability – yup, progress and lots of falls on lead while going for it.
At least one fingerboard session a week - yup.
Write a new training plan – it’s in my head, just need to get it written down – nope.
Add in 2 sessions of ‘pull muscles’ strength training to max hangs sessions – one (ish).
3 Core sessions featuring the best of DanDan’s workout and L hangs, knee raises, windscreen wipers and front lever thangs – one.
Medium Term Goals
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’ (nope – will get on it next time out).
Climb Underhand (7B+) at Almscliff – peak for Easter
Implement and stick to the new training plan – yup!
Build fitness and speed for another 5K PB attempt in late April.
Academic (8a): - good progress on working out the moves.
Weight: 70.4kg.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
1
In reply to biscuit:
Quick update:
153 lbs and 17.3%
Lowest weight for 18mths and low body fat to go with it. That normally goes up a bit, or stays the same, as it's a % of your overall weight. Seems to be working. Not sure about it as a long term diet but for peaking it could work well. The experiment continues.
Quick update:
153 lbs and 17.3%
Lowest weight for 18mths and low body fat to go with it. That normally goes up a bit, or stays the same, as it's a % of your overall weight. Seems to be working. Not sure about it as a long term diet but for peaking it could work well. The experiment continues.
1
In reply to AJM:
Cheers for leading Fitclub for a while again Andy. You’ve certainly put lots of time in over the last few years! Yes – going through a tip on the first day was proper stupid. Fortunately I managed it well from then on.
Goals:
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Jan/Feb: Jerry's Traverse (Cratcliffe) and at least 3 other grit 7Bs. [End result: T Crack, A Case of Mistaken Identity, Monochrome (all 7B) and Flatworld (7B+). Jerry's Traverse not possible due to left shoulder problems. Happy with this.]
March: Do Crazy Horse (7B) and either Magic Bus or La Barre Fixe (7B+) in Font. [End result: Did Crazy Horse (2 days/3 sessions), has a session and made good progress on Magic Bus but couldn’t do the crux. Didn’t try Barre Fixe.] After Font, do Moffatrocity (7B+) if it's dry, or Wright's Traverse (7B) if Moff is still wet.
April: Moffatrocity if not done in March, then Eastwood Traverse (7B+). Start doing some limestone or Churnet bouldering in the evenings again once the clocks change.
May/June/July: Do a few more Font 7Bs on limestone or sandstone, and do Arch Enemies (F7c+)
August: Continue bouldering (more limestone F7B/+s) and, if Arch Enemies went well, get on an F8a.
September: Do the F8a.
October: Once finished (for good or bad) with the F8a, try Paint it Black (Ft7C) at Blackwell Dale.
November/December: Finish off Paint it Black if it feels doable and stays dry for long enough. Then get on the grit, goals being a Ft7B+ and maybe try Tetris (Ft7C).
I’ve repeated the write-up from last Sunday so that Font is all in one place.
S: First day in Font, went to Apremont to try Crazy Horse. Hard work! I worked all the moves in the morning, then had lunch and watched others for a while (+ did Science Friction direct, a classic 6B) before heading back to try it in the afternoon. Failed but had a go where I fell literally a couple of inches from the finish, gutted. And went through a tip...schoolboy error on the first day...
M: Rest day
T: Buthiers. Spent quite a while trying Magic Bus. Di all but one of the moves an got very close to that, making refinements, but go to the point where I realised it definitely wasn’t going to go ‘on the day’, and it was aggravating my left shoulder slightly, so I gave up. Did Attention Chef d’Oeuvre (classic Ft7A) second go, which was a good consolation.
W: Rest day.
T: Franchard Isatis. Tried/failed on El Poussah (Ft 7A) and El Poussif (Ft 7A+) in the morning, had a nosebleed and felt terrible (not sure if these were linked!) Ate a massive amount of bread at lunchtime and felt much better in the afternoon! Did Rataplat (Ft 7B but a bit soft) and La Memel (Ft 7A+).
F: Apremont in the morning for a couple of hours on Crazy Horse. It took longer and more effort to go back and tick than I had hoped it might, but I succeeded – really happy with this. Tough-ish 7B and not my style so 3 shortish sessions is pretty good really. By lunchtime we went to 95.2 and I did Ange Naif Droite (Ft 7A+) in the afternoon, a god end to the trip.
S: Travel home. Managed to contract some nasty lurgy.
S: Nothing. Still had the lurgy (and it was Ruth’s birthday.)
(and still got the lurgy today so off work)
I did a small set of shoulder exercises each morning in Font before climbing to warm up, another small set each evening after climbing as rehab, and a bigger set on the morning of each rest day and on Friday afternoon. This mostly worked ok. It only seemed really bad on Thursday morning, after a rest day on the Wednesday...
Weight last Sunday night was 11 st 0lbs. I’ve put on about 3 lbs in the week. Font is always a massive over-eating fest when we go in March, it’s good fun though.
Font take-aways:
(1) I was happy to do Crazy Horse and the overall tally of 2 7B, 2 7A+ and 1 7A is not bad in 4 days climbing, especially considering that most of one day was spent working a 7B+. It was nice to almost flash Science Friction too (my foot slipped off the starting hold once, then I did it next go).
(2) I’ve realised that once I’m in to the mid Font 7s, especially in Font, my core strength (particularly front lever type strength) and lower body flexibility are a relative weakness. All of Crazy Horse, Magic Bus and El Poussah would have been way easier if I was stronger in this regard. So I’m either failing on some things as a result, or having to pull much harder to compensate. Need to put in place a strict core training programme for a few months before the next bouldering trip.
(3) My bouldering ‘stamina’, ie ability to recover and try things lots of times, seemed very good. I only really got properly tired from bouldering once or twice (first session on Crazy Horse, and on Magic Bus, which was shoulder-related). All other sessions I was just limited by skin. This is positive for limestone and sandstone bouldering when I won’t be skin-limited.
(4) Shoulder seems to be recovering well (now about 2 months since initial pain) and didn't hold me back as much as I'd been concerned it might, but I still need to be careful with it.
Plan now is that I’d like to try and do Spare Rib at Stanton Moor as a final grit problem of the season, then get on the traverses as in my aims above, especially once the hour changes. This all depends on weather and conditions though. Also need to lose that 3 lbs again. I'm away over Easter so opportunities the next few weeks will be limited - hope to be out on Saturday.
Si
Cheers for leading Fitclub for a while again Andy. You’ve certainly put lots of time in over the last few years! Yes – going through a tip on the first day was proper stupid. Fortunately I managed it well from then on.
Goals:
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Jan/Feb: Jerry's Traverse (Cratcliffe) and at least 3 other grit 7Bs. [End result: T Crack, A Case of Mistaken Identity, Monochrome (all 7B) and Flatworld (7B+). Jerry's Traverse not possible due to left shoulder problems. Happy with this.]
March: Do Crazy Horse (7B) and either Magic Bus or La Barre Fixe (7B+) in Font. [End result: Did Crazy Horse (2 days/3 sessions), has a session and made good progress on Magic Bus but couldn’t do the crux. Didn’t try Barre Fixe.] After Font, do Moffatrocity (7B+) if it's dry, or Wright's Traverse (7B) if Moff is still wet.
April: Moffatrocity if not done in March, then Eastwood Traverse (7B+). Start doing some limestone or Churnet bouldering in the evenings again once the clocks change.
May/June/July: Do a few more Font 7Bs on limestone or sandstone, and do Arch Enemies (F7c+)
August: Continue bouldering (more limestone F7B/+s) and, if Arch Enemies went well, get on an F8a.
September: Do the F8a.
October: Once finished (for good or bad) with the F8a, try Paint it Black (Ft7C) at Blackwell Dale.
November/December: Finish off Paint it Black if it feels doable and stays dry for long enough. Then get on the grit, goals being a Ft7B+ and maybe try Tetris (Ft7C).
I’ve repeated the write-up from last Sunday so that Font is all in one place.
S: First day in Font, went to Apremont to try Crazy Horse. Hard work! I worked all the moves in the morning, then had lunch and watched others for a while (+ did Science Friction direct, a classic 6B) before heading back to try it in the afternoon. Failed but had a go where I fell literally a couple of inches from the finish, gutted. And went through a tip...schoolboy error on the first day...
M: Rest day
T: Buthiers. Spent quite a while trying Magic Bus. Di all but one of the moves an got very close to that, making refinements, but go to the point where I realised it definitely wasn’t going to go ‘on the day’, and it was aggravating my left shoulder slightly, so I gave up. Did Attention Chef d’Oeuvre (classic Ft7A) second go, which was a good consolation.
W: Rest day.
T: Franchard Isatis. Tried/failed on El Poussah (Ft 7A) and El Poussif (Ft 7A+) in the morning, had a nosebleed and felt terrible (not sure if these were linked!) Ate a massive amount of bread at lunchtime and felt much better in the afternoon! Did Rataplat (Ft 7B but a bit soft) and La Memel (Ft 7A+).
F: Apremont in the morning for a couple of hours on Crazy Horse. It took longer and more effort to go back and tick than I had hoped it might, but I succeeded – really happy with this. Tough-ish 7B and not my style so 3 shortish sessions is pretty good really. By lunchtime we went to 95.2 and I did Ange Naif Droite (Ft 7A+) in the afternoon, a god end to the trip.
S: Travel home. Managed to contract some nasty lurgy.
S: Nothing. Still had the lurgy (and it was Ruth’s birthday.)
(and still got the lurgy today so off work)
I did a small set of shoulder exercises each morning in Font before climbing to warm up, another small set each evening after climbing as rehab, and a bigger set on the morning of each rest day and on Friday afternoon. This mostly worked ok. It only seemed really bad on Thursday morning, after a rest day on the Wednesday...
Weight last Sunday night was 11 st 0lbs. I’ve put on about 3 lbs in the week. Font is always a massive over-eating fest when we go in March, it’s good fun though.
Font take-aways:
(1) I was happy to do Crazy Horse and the overall tally of 2 7B, 2 7A+ and 1 7A is not bad in 4 days climbing, especially considering that most of one day was spent working a 7B+. It was nice to almost flash Science Friction too (my foot slipped off the starting hold once, then I did it next go).
(2) I’ve realised that once I’m in to the mid Font 7s, especially in Font, my core strength (particularly front lever type strength) and lower body flexibility are a relative weakness. All of Crazy Horse, Magic Bus and El Poussah would have been way easier if I was stronger in this regard. So I’m either failing on some things as a result, or having to pull much harder to compensate. Need to put in place a strict core training programme for a few months before the next bouldering trip.
(3) My bouldering ‘stamina’, ie ability to recover and try things lots of times, seemed very good. I only really got properly tired from bouldering once or twice (first session on Crazy Horse, and on Magic Bus, which was shoulder-related). All other sessions I was just limited by skin. This is positive for limestone and sandstone bouldering when I won’t be skin-limited.
(4) Shoulder seems to be recovering well (now about 2 months since initial pain) and didn't hold me back as much as I'd been concerned it might, but I still need to be careful with it.
Plan now is that I’d like to try and do Spare Rib at Stanton Moor as a final grit problem of the season, then get on the traverses as in my aims above, especially once the hour changes. This all depends on weather and conditions though. Also need to lose that 3 lbs again. I'm away over Easter so opportunities the next few weeks will be limited - hope to be out on Saturday.
Si
Post edited at 08:02
2
In reply to AJM:
Almost lurgy free - down to blowing my nose every few hours instead of every 20minutes!
March goals:
2 weeks gym bunny and leg exercise to try and get fit enough to get through a week of skiing with the lady
Survive epic work & business travel load
Don’t f*ck the shoulder any more
2x week an-cap work-outs
LW reverse (and back again?)
Complete Cave newbie from Broken Heart (f8a+?)
Bolt and try the moves on the easier Malham potential project
CyL 1st third – 7c+ - I suspect this is a bit like LW in the cave – a bit of a locals party trick with a similarly joke grade…
Week 11:
M - CyL introduction with The Fox. Flashed the first 7b+ bit of the lenny, then failed to even RP the second fifth at an apparent “7b” – stern grades in Lanc’s! First half (7c+ / start to wobble block) is now a short term objective.
T - 20min of TRX, Is Ys Ts & flys 2x10. 2x50 inclined press-ups. Should have done some core but short of time.
W - 20mim TRX as yesterday with extra squats – oooh my hamstrings are tight! 7 sets 70% 10:3. 4x little slots, 3x BM1K fakes. Failed on most sets in 3rd or 4th rep. Final set @60% felt pi$$ though. 15sets 1on/1off FOC with cats keeping me company in the garden.
T - Cave lamp session. New 7B+ link-up of Sam’s finish into Beaver RH. Could try this from Broken Heart for an 8A tick? 4 good goes on LWR – best being 3rd go after a good rest where I got to 2nd to last move. Should go when fresh. Luke very close on LW several times. 20 kneebar sit-ups to finish me off.
F - Can’t remember – probably rested
S - Return to CyL – much wetter than Monday. Reworked 2nd fifth, then did it. Fell off first bit, re-worked that. 1st RP – ended at drop-down of 2nd fifth. Long rest; 2nd RP – smashed it with power grunts galore. Quick tickle on wet middle bit, then drive to Malham – swung about on a rope and eventually found a set of holds that I think will go. Got 3 bolts in, then battery failed, so not quite fully equipped.
S - Dinbren – felt very tired after yesterday’s efforts – many wet holds, but probably just an excuse for why the crag gave me a right good spanking! 6b retro, 6c RP, 6c+ RP, “6c” (7a+?) RP, then had to run away and catch a plane to Amsterdam,
Almost lurgy free - down to blowing my nose every few hours instead of every 20minutes!
March goals:
2 weeks gym bunny and leg exercise to try and get fit enough to get through a week of skiing with the lady
Survive epic work & business travel load
Don’t f*ck the shoulder any more
2x week an-cap work-outs
LW reverse (and back again?)
Complete Cave newbie from Broken Heart (f8a+?)
Bolt and try the moves on the easier Malham potential project
CyL 1st third – 7c+ - I suspect this is a bit like LW in the cave – a bit of a locals party trick with a similarly joke grade…
Week 11:
M - CyL introduction with The Fox. Flashed the first 7b+ bit of the lenny, then failed to even RP the second fifth at an apparent “7b” – stern grades in Lanc’s! First half (7c+ / start to wobble block) is now a short term objective.
T - 20min of TRX, Is Ys Ts & flys 2x10. 2x50 inclined press-ups. Should have done some core but short of time.
W - 20mim TRX as yesterday with extra squats – oooh my hamstrings are tight! 7 sets 70% 10:3. 4x little slots, 3x BM1K fakes. Failed on most sets in 3rd or 4th rep. Final set @60% felt pi$$ though. 15sets 1on/1off FOC with cats keeping me company in the garden.
T - Cave lamp session. New 7B+ link-up of Sam’s finish into Beaver RH. Could try this from Broken Heart for an 8A tick? 4 good goes on LWR – best being 3rd go after a good rest where I got to 2nd to last move. Should go when fresh. Luke very close on LW several times. 20 kneebar sit-ups to finish me off.
F - Can’t remember – probably rested
S - Return to CyL – much wetter than Monday. Reworked 2nd fifth, then did it. Fell off first bit, re-worked that. 1st RP – ended at drop-down of 2nd fifth. Long rest; 2nd RP – smashed it with power grunts galore. Quick tickle on wet middle bit, then drive to Malham – swung about on a rope and eventually found a set of holds that I think will go. Got 3 bolts in, then battery failed, so not quite fully equipped.
S - Dinbren – felt very tired after yesterday’s efforts – many wet holds, but probably just an excuse for why the crag gave me a right good spanking! 6b retro, 6c RP, 6c+ RP, “6c” (7a+?) RP, then had to run away and catch a plane to Amsterdam,
1
In reply to biscuit:
Very interested in how your diet progresses and works. For a while now I've been operating on lower carbs than I used to in the week (not on climbing 'performance' days) and it seems to have been effective in helping me reduce calories without feeling hungry. Always good to compare notes.
Mine isn't particularly planned or structured (or strict) but basically I eat:
- 50g porridge oats, milk and a banana in the morning
- a salad at lunch with lots of veg and either ham, oily fish or cheese, but no carbs
- an apple while at work
- dinner could be lots of things but generally comes with 40-50g portion of rice or pasta
- usually another piece of fruit too, and I snack on things like raw carrots
The big change was that in the past I'd have had two big sandwiches for lunch, and probably eaten bigger portions of carbs in the evening, but had fewer fatty things like cheese.
Very interested in how your diet progresses and works. For a while now I've been operating on lower carbs than I used to in the week (not on climbing 'performance' days) and it seems to have been effective in helping me reduce calories without feeling hungry. Always good to compare notes.
Mine isn't particularly planned or structured (or strict) but basically I eat:
- 50g porridge oats, milk and a banana in the morning
- a salad at lunch with lots of veg and either ham, oily fish or cheese, but no carbs
- an apple while at work
- dinner could be lots of things but generally comes with 40-50g portion of rice or pasta
- usually another piece of fruit too, and I snack on things like raw carrots
The big change was that in the past I'd have had two big sandwiches for lunch, and probably eaten bigger portions of carbs in the evening, but had fewer fatty things like cheese.
In reply to Si dH:
Sounds like a solid trip Si, nice job.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Glad you're getting slightly better.....
Sounds like a solid trip Si, nice job.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Glad you're getting slightly better.....
In reply to JayK:
Fairly low key way to slip in doing a Ft7C and two Ft7Bs in a day on your first day back on grit for a year. Have a wad point!
> S-First Grit for almost a year. Managed Domes Sit relatively quickly - 4th or 5th go from the start (I doubt I'd ever have been able to do this without beta). Headed to Burbage and did Monochrome and Monobulge. Both were really good. It was a bonus to get a few ticks but the real win was being out in the sun and enjoying it all again. Excellent.
Fairly low key way to slip in doing a Ft7C and two Ft7Bs in a day on your first day back on grit for a year. Have a wad point!
In reply to AJM:
It's with one hand higher. I agree that it makes no sense, I did it with both hands low as I didn't know at the time. Definitely adds a grade or so on. You only have to add 2 more moves on to get 7C+ from low!
> The Wave - does anyone know what the kosher start position on this is?
It's with one hand higher. I agree that it makes no sense, I did it with both hands low as I didn't know at the time. Definitely adds a grade or so on. You only have to add 2 more moves on to get 7C+ from low!
> Emily - +20kg weighted pullups is good going!
Thanks, strength definitely isn't my main problem with climbing!Monday - running, 8.75km in 45:46. Bit hilly.
Tuesday - bouldering at TCA: got a couple more blacks, and three oranges, including one flash. I don't often even get round to attempting anything on the V3-5 circuit so happy about this!
Wednesday - trampolining. Tried back somersaults for the first time, with assistance - fun.
Thursday - nothing.
Friday - climbing at UCR. Felt slow and tired, tried to make up for it by climbing carefully. Tried a new orange 6c, got it clean up to the last clip but can't lead the top moves - scary foot cross through thing right on top of the bolt which I don't like.
Saturday - running, 6.5km in 34:03 as 2km easy warmup, 3km at 10k target pace (4:35, 4:38, 4:39), 1.5km easy cooldown.
Sunday - nothing. Flight to Spain.
Goals / progress on them:
Short term (Mar)
- keep weight trending downwards. More actionably: pay attention to food with this in mind
- mostly good on the food front this week. Moving average down 0.3kg
- 2 runs/week until holiday per my plan in prep for Bristol 10k
- yep, 4/4 pre-holiday runs done
- do some hard climbing before holiday
- tried to get on some stuff I find hard. Probably should have done loads of jumping off
- climb with good attitude in Spain (mid March) and have fun even if I suck!
- here goes! So far... cold and raining
Medium term (Mar, Apr, May)
- follow running plan for Bristol 10k
- 15/36 done, on track
- aim for course (and distance) PB at the Bristol 10k, so sub 47:14. Target pace 4:40ish I guess
- did some running at target pace this week, felt a glimmer of achievability
- climb something outside in the UK if the weather ever cooperates
- 1.5 days on Portland so far
this year
- 1.5 days on Portland so far
Minor miracle level "maybe someday" wishes
- redpoint something beginning with 7 indoors?
- redpoint something beginning with 7 outdoors??
- lead a VS??? (don't care whether onsight or after seconding a billion times, but this does include placing the gear myself)
1
In reply to cha1n:
Hmm... My friend who is writing the guide reckons both hands low.
How hard do you reckon it is from both hands low then?
Hmm... My friend who is writing the guide reckons both hands low.
How hard do you reckon it is from both hands low then?
In reply to AJM
Thanks, hopefully things will improve later in the week. Currently sitting in a cafe looking out at the rain, getting jealous reading about everyone's weekend outings (I was indoors).
M - 8.5km run
T - TCA. Standard Tuesday after-work session, felt weak and tired but stuck at it and managed to work out a couple more oranges.
W - trampolining, some good coaching input and technical progress.
T - Core/kettlebells circuit. Intended to hang on the fingerboard but gave up quickly due to lack of psyche/skin/time before trip.
F - UCR. Tired, just wanted to sleep really, climbed like a punter. At one point I actually fell off by swiping my left arm with my right. Did the new pink 7a, had some fun on the long traversing white one.
S - 6km run with middle 3km at 10k target pace (3:50/km). Aggravated the persistent mess of blisters on blisters on my left foot.
S - Nothing, travel from sunny Bristol to cold, rainy Catalunya. Does anybody else want to tell me how nice Sunday was? I saw it out of the window...
> Nick Russell - enjoy Margalef
Thanks, hopefully things will improve later in the week. Currently sitting in a cafe looking out at the rain, getting jealous reading about everyone's weekend outings (I was indoors).
M - 8.5km run
T - TCA. Standard Tuesday after-work session, felt weak and tired but stuck at it and managed to work out a couple more oranges.
W - trampolining, some good coaching input and technical progress.
T - Core/kettlebells circuit. Intended to hang on the fingerboard but gave up quickly due to lack of psyche/skin/time before trip.
F - UCR. Tired, just wanted to sleep really, climbed like a punter. At one point I actually fell off by swiping my left arm with my right. Did the new pink 7a, had some fun on the long traversing white one.
S - 6km run with middle 3km at 10k target pace (3:50/km). Aggravated the persistent mess of blisters on blisters on my left foot.
S - Nothing, travel from sunny Bristol to cold, rainy Catalunya. Does anybody else want to tell me how nice Sunday was? I saw it out of the window...
1
In reply to AJM:
I think it was a combination of watching lots of videos of people on it and some description somewhere. Makes sense logically that it starts with a high hand to get the grade they suggest.
One of the best I've done at the grade, classic.
I think it was a combination of watching lots of videos of people on it and some description somewhere. Makes sense logically that it starts with a high hand to get the grade they suggest.
One of the best I've done at the grade, classic.
In reply to cha1n:
Yeah ukc says start offset, and I also saw some videos with offset hands.
It's a cool looking problem, definitely.
Yeah ukc says start offset, and I also saw some videos with offset hands.
It's a cool looking problem, definitely.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers AJM, I'll let AlexM run the shop for as long as he wants and I can take over whenever he needs.
Rubbish week for me, my whole family and all workmates have fallen foul of one lurgy or another in the last couple of weeks and it finally made it's way to me! Still, rather now than in 2 weeks when we leave for Spain...
M: Bodyweight antagonists, holding steady, no significant progress, only 1 more 10 sec free handstand but I think as i'm learning I'm over-leaning more which results in a roll-out and having to get back into position whereas before I was underleaning much more which just means my toes touch back on the wall. This means more effort to have the same number of tries, i'm hoping something is going to 'click' soon and things will improve.
Toes touching is pretty decent though.
T-F: Lurgy!
S: Bouldering indoor; still not really better (Friday was my illest day) but Mrs Dandan wanted to do her Aerocap so I thought I would have a pootle, felt pretty decent, multiple V4 and playing on some V6-8
S: Still not entirely lurgy free, closest I did to climbing was to watch the incredible CWIF coverage, what a final!
Despite having a pretty terrible week, i'm feeling quite positive overall, I like to think of it as a rest week which was probably due to be honest.
I also learned a tough truth which I'm actually quite pleased about; My mate Rich came bouldering with us on Saturday, historically he's always been mega strong but I can usually hold my own against him, with only body shape being the difference between moves one or the other of us couldn't do. I pointed him at some problems that I thought were mega stiff for the grade and he proceeded to repeatedly and comfortably pull moves which I thought were either impossible or way too hard for the grade. My conclusion to this, i'm much, much weaker than I thought I was! This was confirmed when I went home and had a brief attempt at a 1 arm pull up on the centre big slot on the Beastmaker, I couldn't even bend the elbow from a straight hang, 1 pull up on each arm was always do-able for me before!
I have to disclose that I have been trying to gain weight recently (I don't mention this on FitClub, I know a lot of people do) in an experiment to end up slightly heavier but with more muscle so i'm currently 1 stone heavier than usual and also 3.5% bodyfat higher than normal, I guess if i had put a 14 pound weight belt on 2 years ago I probably couldn't do a one armer either! Regardless of that, the overall net effect is that i'm weak. I think the elbows will be ready for some proper training after Spain, rather than the realisation that i'm weak being depressing, it just makes me really keen to get strong again!
Last week's STG:
Keep stretching, achieve another couple of 5 second toe-grabs - TICK!
3 climbing sessions - NOPE lurgy 1 session
Boulder 50 routes with a total score of >100 V points - NOPE see above
Freestanding handstand 10x10 seconds - currently 7/10
New STG:
Ensure Lurgy is safely eradicated
Keep stretching, achieve another four 5 second toe-grabs
3 climbing sessions
Freestanding handstand 10x10 seconds - currently 7/10
MTG:
Stay healthy for Margalef and tick 10 '7' graded climbs while there. (seems fair)
Try to do some route setting at Calshot somehow - No Progress
> Dandan82 - thanks also for the offer of taking over for a bit. Sounds like a positive week
Cheers AJM, I'll let AlexM run the shop for as long as he wants and I can take over whenever he needs.
Rubbish week for me, my whole family and all workmates have fallen foul of one lurgy or another in the last couple of weeks and it finally made it's way to me! Still, rather now than in 2 weeks when we leave for Spain...
M: Bodyweight antagonists, holding steady, no significant progress, only 1 more 10 sec free handstand but I think as i'm learning I'm over-leaning more which results in a roll-out and having to get back into position whereas before I was underleaning much more which just means my toes touch back on the wall. This means more effort to have the same number of tries, i'm hoping something is going to 'click' soon and things will improve.
Toes touching is pretty decent though.
T-F: Lurgy!
S: Bouldering indoor; still not really better (Friday was my illest day) but Mrs Dandan wanted to do her Aerocap so I thought I would have a pootle, felt pretty decent, multiple V4 and playing on some V6-8
S: Still not entirely lurgy free, closest I did to climbing was to watch the incredible CWIF coverage, what a final!
Despite having a pretty terrible week, i'm feeling quite positive overall, I like to think of it as a rest week which was probably due to be honest.
I also learned a tough truth which I'm actually quite pleased about; My mate Rich came bouldering with us on Saturday, historically he's always been mega strong but I can usually hold my own against him, with only body shape being the difference between moves one or the other of us couldn't do. I pointed him at some problems that I thought were mega stiff for the grade and he proceeded to repeatedly and comfortably pull moves which I thought were either impossible or way too hard for the grade. My conclusion to this, i'm much, much weaker than I thought I was! This was confirmed when I went home and had a brief attempt at a 1 arm pull up on the centre big slot on the Beastmaker, I couldn't even bend the elbow from a straight hang, 1 pull up on each arm was always do-able for me before!
I have to disclose that I have been trying to gain weight recently (I don't mention this on FitClub, I know a lot of people do) in an experiment to end up slightly heavier but with more muscle so i'm currently 1 stone heavier than usual and also 3.5% bodyfat higher than normal, I guess if i had put a 14 pound weight belt on 2 years ago I probably couldn't do a one armer either! Regardless of that, the overall net effect is that i'm weak. I think the elbows will be ready for some proper training after Spain, rather than the realisation that i'm weak being depressing, it just makes me really keen to get strong again!
Last week's STG:
Keep stretching, achieve another couple of 5 second toe-grabs - TICK!
3 climbing sessions - NOPE lurgy 1 session
Boulder 50 routes with a total score of >100 V points - NOPE see above
Freestanding handstand 10x10 seconds - currently 7/10
New STG:
Ensure Lurgy is safely eradicated
Keep stretching, achieve another four 5 second toe-grabs
3 climbing sessions
Freestanding handstand 10x10 seconds - currently 7/10
MTG:
Stay healthy for Margalef and tick 10 '7' graded climbs while there. (seems fair)
Try to do some route setting at Calshot somehow - No Progress
1
In reply to AJM:
Hmm, maybe I'm wrong though. It doesn't necessarily bother me as I did it matched low anyway but it didn't feel 7A that way. Certainly 7A+, if not harder.
Hmm, maybe I'm wrong though. It doesn't necessarily bother me as I did it matched low anyway but it didn't feel 7A that way. Certainly 7A+, if not harder.
In reply to hms:
Oh and my week, hmm... Working away in Sheffield again messed everything up.
Weds - Climbing works - Played on the woody for 30 mins, played on some murples. Feeling weak and tired.
Sun - Got reacquainted with Academic (8a). Couldn't quite remember the beta for the traverse from attempts in the distant past. Insanely warm and skin was sweating through instantly after applying chalk. That combined with me generally feeling tired and weak didn't help. Need to get some consistency back in everything, climbing sessions, eating, sleep, life. Pretty stressed out at the moment in general. Bad week.
Oh and my week, hmm... Working away in Sheffield again messed everything up.
Weds - Climbing works - Played on the woody for 30 mins, played on some murples. Feeling weak and tired.
Sun - Got reacquainted with Academic (8a). Couldn't quite remember the beta for the traverse from attempts in the distant past. Insanely warm and skin was sweating through instantly after applying chalk. That combined with me generally feeling tired and weak didn't help. Need to get some consistency back in everything, climbing sessions, eating, sleep, life. Pretty stressed out at the moment in general. Bad week.
1
In reply to AJM:
Indeed. However, a much better week this week and now feeling properly psyched for the training year.
Mon - Benchmarks. Utterly lame numbers, but now looking forward to some 'beginners gains' when I retest in 8 weeks time. Keep telling myself I was injured for most of the Winter, but still...
In 60 seconds per exercise -
8 dips
18 situps
8 chinups
23 box jumps
18 pressups
Some shoulder rehab, including 10x wide grip chinups (-15kg)
Tue - AW Stockport. 27mins aerocap at 5+, some fall practice.
Wed - Rest
Thu - Depot Manchester. First visit, mostly getting a feel for the place. 8 routes at V1 and a few goes on the circuit board at 6a/6a+. Something more structured next time
Fri - Strength & Conditioning.
Core warmup (Hollow Rocks, russian twists, plank)
1 circuit of:
10x wide grip Pullup -10kg
10x Box Step w BBell 30kg
10x Strict press 30kg
8x Hang Squat 30kg
6 toes to bar
6 dips
Sat
Another benchmark - base of Jacob's Ladder to Kinder Low (270m) with 14kg pack. 31 minutes.
CWIF - way too hard for the likes of me. Maybe next year!
Sun
Some pottering about at Stanage.
STG
Last weeks goals -
Start a new transition period, with some general conditioning and aerobic work. Figure out some benchmarks to chart my progress over the next year.
Done!
Next week's goals
Climb Pete Whittaker's 6a (Line 76, Yellow) at AW Sheffield. Was too nice a day to climb indoors this week. Slacked off aerobic work this week - do 4 hours trail running, including 25 minuts in Z2.
MTG
Left shoulder rehab.
Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
LTG
Recovery of left shoulder injury.
Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly
Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)
Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)
Learn to ski.
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Something on El Capitan.
> planetmarshall - transitioning is always tough to start off
Indeed. However, a much better week this week and now feeling properly psyched for the training year.
Mon - Benchmarks. Utterly lame numbers, but now looking forward to some 'beginners gains' when I retest in 8 weeks time. Keep telling myself I was injured for most of the Winter, but still...
In 60 seconds per exercise -
8 dips
18 situps
8 chinups
23 box jumps
18 pressups
Some shoulder rehab, including 10x wide grip chinups (-15kg)
Tue - AW Stockport. 27mins aerocap at 5+, some fall practice.
Wed - Rest
Thu - Depot Manchester. First visit, mostly getting a feel for the place. 8 routes at V1 and a few goes on the circuit board at 6a/6a+. Something more structured next time
Fri - Strength & Conditioning.
Core warmup (Hollow Rocks, russian twists, plank)
1 circuit of:
10x wide grip Pullup -10kg
10x Box Step w BBell 30kg
10x Strict press 30kg
8x Hang Squat 30kg
6 toes to bar
6 dips
Sat
Another benchmark - base of Jacob's Ladder to Kinder Low (270m) with 14kg pack. 31 minutes.
CWIF - way too hard for the likes of me. Maybe next year!
Sun
Some pottering about at Stanage.
STG
Last weeks goals -
Start a new transition period, with some general conditioning and aerobic work. Figure out some benchmarks to chart my progress over the next year.
Done!
Next week's goals
Climb Pete Whittaker's 6a (Line 76, Yellow) at AW Sheffield. Was too nice a day to climb indoors this week. Slacked off aerobic work this week - do 4 hours trail running, including 25 minuts in Z2.
MTG
Left shoulder rehab.
Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
LTG
Recovery of left shoulder injury.
Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly
Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)
Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)
Learn to ski.
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Something on El Capitan.
1
In reply to AJM:
very brief this week. shoulder/bicep still injured.
M&T: Rest. Injury had been improving. Daily - antagonists, light core, and 1 hour walk. But Tuesday after walk shoulder got really irritated, flared up, back to ice/ibuprofen/rest.
W-Su: Forced full rest. Theraband shoulder strengthening only. S & Sun better. Booked to see Osteo again.
New Goal: Rehab injury properly before jumping back to climbing or training. arrrgghh so frustrating!
> Robin Brooke - at least you've got a solid diagnosis, thats the important thing
very brief this week. shoulder/bicep still injured.
M&T: Rest. Injury had been improving. Daily - antagonists, light core, and 1 hour walk. But Tuesday after walk shoulder got really irritated, flared up, back to ice/ibuprofen/rest.
W-Su: Forced full rest. Theraband shoulder strengthening only. S & Sun better. Booked to see Osteo again.
New Goal: Rehab injury properly before jumping back to climbing or training. arrrgghh so frustrating!
Post edited at 11:15
1
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy, I think the levers are very much work in progress and I've still got to dial the technique. When I reported last time, my feet and shoulders were about the same height but I had a bend at the waist. This time with the bent leg levers I concentrated on throwing my hips forward. My body was pretty straight but still about 20 degrees off horizontal. I'm trying 5 lever lifts and holding for a couple of seconds. It's very obvious that I can't hold the last reps well, but am still able to pull up to close to 20 degrees off horizontal.
Monday - long session. Started with 7c circuits and long 20 minute rests. I made three attempts. I was really pleased to get the circuit on my first attempt of the day and then managed it on the 2nd and 3rd tries too. I hadn't spent very long working it in previous sessions. I think this is the best indication I've had of some significant gains. Followed this by Ancap on the fingerboard. The previous setup had been a little too easy but I didn't change it and got through. Followed this with short circuits and short rests. I had to drop the grade here as I was pretty wasted.
Tuesday - systems board and continuous climbing. Had a few problems keeping feet on the systems board.
Wednesday - Fingerboard. One handed hangs. +10 kg large slot. -12.5 kg medium edge. -1.25 kg 90 degree lock offs large slot. All for 10 seconds and several reps.
Thursday - Antagonists and weighted pull ups.
Friday - Best double 7a laps session yet. First and second sets on the 35 degree wall complete. I dropped the last move of the 2nd lap on the 3rd set. 1 cheat on the first set on the 10 degree wall. 2nd set on the 10 degree wall perfect and 1 cheat and one fall on the final set. The perfect set is going to be hard, but feels a little more possible. Followed by core and levers as described earlier.
Saturday - rest and family time
Sunday - family time, but managed a few hours climbing on Portland and did a couple of 7a's. We went to Dungecroft Quarry, which was much better than I was expecting. Our son had a hoot being lowered down the crevasse at the start of the routes and doing cave exploring.
This week is a rest week and I will be in America working. No real aims other than to try and eat and sleep reasonably well and not come back feeling completely shattered. It's not going to be easy as I have bad flight connections coming home.
Thanks Andy, I think the levers are very much work in progress and I've still got to dial the technique. When I reported last time, my feet and shoulders were about the same height but I had a bend at the waist. This time with the bent leg levers I concentrated on throwing my hips forward. My body was pretty straight but still about 20 degrees off horizontal. I'm trying 5 lever lifts and holding for a couple of seconds. It's very obvious that I can't hold the last reps well, but am still able to pull up to close to 20 degrees off horizontal.
Monday - long session. Started with 7c circuits and long 20 minute rests. I made three attempts. I was really pleased to get the circuit on my first attempt of the day and then managed it on the 2nd and 3rd tries too. I hadn't spent very long working it in previous sessions. I think this is the best indication I've had of some significant gains. Followed this by Ancap on the fingerboard. The previous setup had been a little too easy but I didn't change it and got through. Followed this with short circuits and short rests. I had to drop the grade here as I was pretty wasted.
Tuesday - systems board and continuous climbing. Had a few problems keeping feet on the systems board.
Wednesday - Fingerboard. One handed hangs. +10 kg large slot. -12.5 kg medium edge. -1.25 kg 90 degree lock offs large slot. All for 10 seconds and several reps.
Thursday - Antagonists and weighted pull ups.
Friday - Best double 7a laps session yet. First and second sets on the 35 degree wall complete. I dropped the last move of the 2nd lap on the 3rd set. 1 cheat on the first set on the 10 degree wall. 2nd set on the 10 degree wall perfect and 1 cheat and one fall on the final set. The perfect set is going to be hard, but feels a little more possible. Followed by core and levers as described earlier.
Saturday - rest and family time
Sunday - family time, but managed a few hours climbing on Portland and did a couple of 7a's. We went to Dungecroft Quarry, which was much better than I was expecting. Our son had a hoot being lowered down the crevasse at the start of the routes and doing cave exploring.
This week is a rest week and I will be in America working. No real aims other than to try and eat and sleep reasonably well and not come back feeling completely shattered. It's not going to be easy as I have bad flight connections coming home.
1
In reply to Emily:
Bloody hell... have you tried not using your feet? Maybe they're holding you back...
> Emily - +20kg weighted pullups is good going!
> Thanks, strength definitely isn't my main problem with climbing!
> Thanks, strength definitely isn't my main problem with climbing!
Bloody hell... have you tried not using your feet? Maybe they're holding you back...
1
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy. Hope you are feeling better and have an awesome time in Bishop!
I think continuity is getting better as I get fitter...maybe...a lot of combined sessions this week, so am learning what bits of a programme can go together, and which really shouldn't. Beginning to appreciate the irony of me saying I wanted to break into 7b this year but without formally training, and then having broken myself so all I can do usefully is train...
SSTG: by next Fit Club entry
* Be crutch free
* Free walking using boot outside and without boot in the house.
* Positive report from physio on Tuesday
STG:
*Re-gain leg muscle and flexibility.
* Be strong and stable enough to manage 4 mile walks in Lakes 3-6 April
* Be strong and stable enough to ski gently in US on 8th April
MTG: Sticking with the pre-broken goals for now, but may need to manage my expectations when I get back to climbing two-footed.
* 7b redpoint, E3 onsight, V7 outside in 2016. (7a onsight, E2 onsight, V6 worked in 2015)
This week:
M: Continuity Brookes then fingerboard. Physio.
T: rest. Physio.
W: Body balance class. One legged yoga is HARD. Then bench press antagonists. Had a fight with some muscly gym **** who could lift massive weights and then was too weak to put them away so other people could use the equipment. Getting angry even writing about it! Physio.
T: CapPow then fingerboard. Physio.
F: Rest (conditioning) Physio.
S: Continuity Wirksworth then did a 6b one-legged top rope. Physio.
S: 1on2off Climbing Unit then fingerboard and conditioning. Physio.
Thanks Andy. Hope you are feeling better and have an awesome time in Bishop!
I think continuity is getting better as I get fitter...maybe...a lot of combined sessions this week, so am learning what bits of a programme can go together, and which really shouldn't. Beginning to appreciate the irony of me saying I wanted to break into 7b this year but without formally training, and then having broken myself so all I can do usefully is train...
SSTG: by next Fit Club entry
* Be crutch free
* Free walking using boot outside and without boot in the house.
* Positive report from physio on Tuesday
STG:
*Re-gain leg muscle and flexibility.
* Be strong and stable enough to manage 4 mile walks in Lakes 3-6 April
* Be strong and stable enough to ski gently in US on 8th April
MTG: Sticking with the pre-broken goals for now, but may need to manage my expectations when I get back to climbing two-footed.
* 7b redpoint, E3 onsight, V7 outside in 2016. (7a onsight, E2 onsight, V6 worked in 2015)
This week:
M: Continuity Brookes then fingerboard. Physio.
T: rest. Physio.
W: Body balance class. One legged yoga is HARD. Then bench press antagonists. Had a fight with some muscly gym **** who could lift massive weights and then was too weak to put them away so other people could use the equipment. Getting angry even writing about it! Physio.
T: CapPow then fingerboard. Physio.
F: Rest (conditioning) Physio.
S: Continuity Wirksworth then did a 6b one-legged top rope. Physio.
S: 1on2off Climbing Unit then fingerboard and conditioning. Physio.
1
In reply to planetmarshall:
Haha, it does all usually go a bit better if I can find am excuse to cut my feet off!
Haha, it does all usually go a bit better if I can find am excuse to cut my feet off!
In reply to AJM:
Cheers HMS / AJM.
Foot is loosening up thanks but it still feels like there is a rod running from big toe to ankle which is stopping movement. Seeing Osteopath again tonight (Tue 15 Mar) so will see how it goes. Really happy that I managed a 5hr walk in the Lakes. Really coming along now but I can't wait to get back to climbing and out on the bike. It's putting pressure through the toes that's holding me back now. Hit my weight goal but failed on the Beastmaker / strength training. Must try harder.
Mon:
Tue: 1hr mountain bike on road. Tried a mini section of trail and it hurt my foot.
Wed: Weight training, upper body/core.
Thu:
Fri:
Sat:
Sun: Spontaneous trip to the Lakes. Catbells, Maiden Moor, High Spy with the misses and dog. Lovely day out, 5hr walk, just what I needed. Foot held up well except for one small slip where it hurt. Snow only on the highest areas now. Managed some easy scrambling. Whoop!
Current weight: 145.3 lbs.
STGs (during foot rehab):
Weight to 140 by end March (146: 13 Mar (TICK!) / 144: 20 Mar / 142: 27 Mar / 140: 31 Mar)
Bike on trail
Walk in Peak: I'm (TICK!)ing this, Lakes rather than Peak but the idea was to walk on hilly terrain so I think that qualifies.
Climb something... anything!
Beastmaker Beasty 6Cish x2 per week
Other strength training x2 per week
STGs (after foot rehab):
Get back on the bike in time to do some XC racing this year
Complete first row on indoor route pyramid
MTGs (before end 2016):
Get on some routes (any trad & sport), lead or second
Complete first row on trad and bouldering pyramids
Too Drunk (f7A)
Sleeping with the Flowers (f7A)
Ousal Low (f7A+)
Jack's Rake (Grade-1)
Lead a Severe
Ride The Beast at Coed y Brenin (just need to sort a date with mates)
Compete in Mids XC Series
LTGs:
Winter III -- will have to be next season now due to injured foot
SPA, ML, Coaching Award
Mountain bike holiday in Alps
Get back to Font
VLTGs:
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c)
BHAGs:
To be comfortable having a go at any sensible mountain route.
Some Alpine stuff.
The Wheel of Life 8C+/9a.
Cheers HMS / AJM.
Foot is loosening up thanks but it still feels like there is a rod running from big toe to ankle which is stopping movement. Seeing Osteopath again tonight (Tue 15 Mar) so will see how it goes. Really happy that I managed a 5hr walk in the Lakes. Really coming along now but I can't wait to get back to climbing and out on the bike. It's putting pressure through the toes that's holding me back now. Hit my weight goal but failed on the Beastmaker / strength training. Must try harder.
Mon:
Tue: 1hr mountain bike on road. Tried a mini section of trail and it hurt my foot.
Wed: Weight training, upper body/core.
Thu:
Fri:
Sat:
Sun: Spontaneous trip to the Lakes. Catbells, Maiden Moor, High Spy with the misses and dog. Lovely day out, 5hr walk, just what I needed. Foot held up well except for one small slip where it hurt. Snow only on the highest areas now. Managed some easy scrambling. Whoop!
Current weight: 145.3 lbs.
STGs (during foot rehab):
Weight to 140 by end March (146: 13 Mar (TICK!) / 144: 20 Mar / 142: 27 Mar / 140: 31 Mar)
Bike on trail
Walk in Peak: I'm (TICK!)ing this, Lakes rather than Peak but the idea was to walk on hilly terrain so I think that qualifies.
Climb something... anything!
Beastmaker Beasty 6Cish x2 per week
Other strength training x2 per week
STGs (after foot rehab):
Get back on the bike in time to do some XC racing this year
Complete first row on indoor route pyramid
MTGs (before end 2016):
Get on some routes (any trad & sport), lead or second
Complete first row on trad and bouldering pyramids
Too Drunk (f7A)
Sleeping with the Flowers (f7A)
Ousal Low (f7A+)
Jack's Rake (Grade-1)
Lead a Severe
Ride The Beast at Coed y Brenin (just need to sort a date with mates)
Compete in Mids XC Series
LTGs:
Winter III -- will have to be next season now due to injured foot
SPA, ML, Coaching Award
Mountain bike holiday in Alps
Get back to Font
VLTGs:
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c)
BHAGs:
To be comfortable having a go at any sensible mountain route.
Some Alpine stuff.
The Wheel of Life 8C+/9a.
1
In reply to stevemarkperry:
STG = Don't get injured pre France!
MTG = 7a+ by end of Easter France trip (either France or UK)
LTG = 7b+ pyramid this year, at least 3x7a+, 2x7b,1x7b+. Done plenty of 7as over the last few years.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Mon – 3 by 3 at WW. 3x6a, 3x6a+, 3x6b+, 3x6c, 6b+ 6a 6a (last one was supposed to be 3x6b+ but was too boxed). First 2 sets to warm up then felt about the right level for PE, 3x6c was a killer.10 mins yoga.
Weds – 15 mins yoga. Quick 1 hr boulder session, flashed a load of problems up to V3.
Thurs – 15 mins yoga
Fri – assessment, brutal!
Sat – routes at the Castle. Still knackered from the assessment so took it easy. 10 routes up to 6b. 10 mins yoga.
Assessment went well, highlighted a fair few weaknesses incl slopers, pinches and core engagement on steep rock. Also too speedy with the footwork, a repetition of the finding from coaching earlier this year. Good to have lots of stuff to work on!
On countdown to France on Saturday now. Having felt fairly healed up the last few weeks managed to tweak a finger opening a tupperware (!?) yesterday but hopefully be OK by the weekend. Will prob miss posting next week on FitClub as I'll still be away.
STG = Don't get injured pre France!
MTG = 7a+ by end of Easter France trip (either France or UK)
LTG = 7b+ pyramid this year, at least 3x7a+, 2x7b,1x7b+. Done plenty of 7as over the last few years.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Mon – 3 by 3 at WW. 3x6a, 3x6a+, 3x6b+, 3x6c, 6b+ 6a 6a (last one was supposed to be 3x6b+ but was too boxed). First 2 sets to warm up then felt about the right level for PE, 3x6c was a killer.10 mins yoga.
Weds – 15 mins yoga. Quick 1 hr boulder session, flashed a load of problems up to V3.
Thurs – 15 mins yoga
Fri – assessment, brutal!
Sat – routes at the Castle. Still knackered from the assessment so took it easy. 10 routes up to 6b. 10 mins yoga.
Assessment went well, highlighted a fair few weaknesses incl slopers, pinches and core engagement on steep rock. Also too speedy with the footwork, a repetition of the finding from coaching earlier this year. Good to have lots of stuff to work on!
On countdown to France on Saturday now. Having felt fairly healed up the last few weeks managed to tweak a finger opening a tupperware (!?) yesterday but hopefully be OK by the weekend. Will prob miss posting next week on FitClub as I'll still be away.
2
In reply to AJM:
But, we very much appreciate your efforts anyway!
Definitely! Unfortunately along with the psyche I also brought back a does of the lurgy
m - 10k run around Krakow. I actually only went out for 5, but got lost! In the afternoon, I went round the salt mines, which was nice, but perhaps I shouldn't have believed the guide when they told me "you can't catch anything down here, so feel free to lick the walls" ...
t - Travelling back to the UK
w - Back to work
t - Left work to go home ill
f - Off work ill
s - Ill
s - Ill
I'm still stuck with what feels like a bloated head, mucus-filled chesty cough and sore throat
No idea about my weight as I was too ill to face getting on the scales.
My running plans are now in tatters. I've the Baildon Boundary way off road half marathon looming, on the back of very little training and little prospect of training this week. Plus, I can alrady see the Three Peaks Race coming over the horizon. Oooof!
I am super psyched for the mountains though. Met a bunch of guys that I plan on keeping in touch with. Short trip to the Atlas mountains later this year already in planning ...
> Thanks! With this sort of disorganisation you'll be glad to be rid of me for a bit and have someone else kicking everything off!
But, we very much appreciate your efforts anyway!
> hokkyokusei - sounds like a good trip for the psyche even if the climbing volume was less than youd hoped
Definitely! Unfortunately along with the psyche I also brought back a does of the lurgy
m - 10k run around Krakow. I actually only went out for 5, but got lost! In the afternoon, I went round the salt mines, which was nice, but perhaps I shouldn't have believed the guide when they told me "you can't catch anything down here, so feel free to lick the walls" ...
t - Travelling back to the UK
w - Back to work
t - Left work to go home ill
f - Off work ill
s - Ill
s - Ill
I'm still stuck with what feels like a bloated head, mucus-filled chesty cough and sore throat
No idea about my weight as I was too ill to face getting on the scales.
My running plans are now in tatters. I've the Baildon Boundary way off road half marathon looming, on the back of very little training and little prospect of training this week. Plus, I can alrady see the Three Peaks Race coming over the horizon. Oooof!
I am super psyched for the mountains though. Met a bunch of guys that I plan on keeping in touch with. Short trip to the Atlas mountains later this year already in planning ...
In reply to AJM:
Cheers, Andy. It didn't feel like it at the time, it just hurt!
M: am - 4/5M to work in 30:09, pm - 9/10M home in 59:58
Tu: am - 4/5M to work in 30:27, pm - run home then 5x3min (1min jog recovery), then 5x1min (30secs recovery) 10/11M
W: am jog to wok 15mins, pm nowt, felt really tired and had an attack of CBA which isn't like me so rested.
Th: am - run to work 5M in 35:56, pm - run home in 30:01
F: am run to work 4M in 28:34, pm - run home 7M in 47:27
Sa: Road session, 15min tempo, 6x3min (off 1min), 15 min tempo. Managed 5:10's and 5:15's on the tempo sections, going ok. 13M
Su: 1:45:22 at around 6:30's 16M
Total - roughly 80M - good weekends training. Now have roads relays and reading half to aim for in the next month.
Cheers, Andy. It didn't feel like it at the time, it just hurt!
M: am - 4/5M to work in 30:09, pm - 9/10M home in 59:58
Tu: am - 4/5M to work in 30:27, pm - run home then 5x3min (1min jog recovery), then 5x1min (30secs recovery) 10/11M
W: am jog to wok 15mins, pm nowt, felt really tired and had an attack of CBA which isn't like me so rested.
Th: am - run to work 5M in 35:56, pm - run home in 30:01
F: am run to work 4M in 28:34, pm - run home 7M in 47:27
Sa: Road session, 15min tempo, 6x3min (off 1min), 15 min tempo. Managed 5:10's and 5:15's on the tempo sections, going ok. 13M
Su: 1:45:22 at around 6:30's 16M
Total - roughly 80M - good weekends training. Now have roads relays and reading half to aim for in the next month.
In reply to hms:
Thanks and sorry, late post this week.
Mon - Fingerboad, max hangs and ancap.
Tues - Bouldered for 2 hours then 8 mins on, 8 mins off x3.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Fingerboad, max hangs and ancap.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Boulder. Lots of V3-5 circuit and a couple of V4-6.
Sun - Boulder. Tried to finish with foot on campus, body said no: just too tired.
STGs (end of March) -
Some trad and/or scrambling.
Eat less Haribo.
Maintain increased volume of climbing/training.
Book some driving lessons (erk).
MTG (this year):
Lost Decade, climb harder than 4+ in Font.
Finish some of the perma-projects: Realm of Chaos, Hall of Mirrors, Road Rage.
7c abroad if suitable trip happens.
Do some scrambling and mountain trad, ??? try the Cuillin Ridge.
Find a new job, learn to drive.
LTG:
Consolidate at 7c in UK, Fighting Torque, euro 8a.
Thanks and sorry, late post this week.
Mon - Fingerboad, max hangs and ancap.
Tues - Bouldered for 2 hours then 8 mins on, 8 mins off x3.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Fingerboad, max hangs and ancap.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Boulder. Lots of V3-5 circuit and a couple of V4-6.
Sun - Boulder. Tried to finish with foot on campus, body said no: just too tired.
STGs (end of March) -
Some trad and/or scrambling.
Eat less Haribo.
Maintain increased volume of climbing/training.
Book some driving lessons (erk).
MTG (this year):
Lost Decade, climb harder than 4+ in Font.
Finish some of the perma-projects: Realm of Chaos, Hall of Mirrors, Road Rage.
7c abroad if suitable trip happens.
Do some scrambling and mountain trad, ??? try the Cuillin Ridge.
Find a new job, learn to drive.
LTG:
Consolidate at 7c in UK, Fighting Torque, euro 8a.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy. The Lakes were lakey.
STG - Keep doing some climbing
Weight - 12st 10lbs
M - Indoor routes
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - 200 dish tucks
F - Indoor routes
S - Rest
S - Rest
I did a lot more climbing this week. Went down to Dynamic Rock for the first time in a while, which was nice. Managed a 6b as well, which was good for the ego. Felt like despite the general lack of fitness and podge I climbed well. Happy with that. I think the endless footwork practice on 4s and 5s has actually had a positive effect on my climbing. Which is nice. Still battling the weight. Still failing a bit at that.
Thanks Andy. The Lakes were lakey.
STG - Keep doing some climbing
Weight - 12st 10lbs
M - Indoor routes
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - 200 dish tucks
F - Indoor routes
S - Rest
S - Rest
I did a lot more climbing this week. Went down to Dynamic Rock for the first time in a while, which was nice. Managed a 6b as well, which was good for the ego. Felt like despite the general lack of fitness and podge I climbed well. Happy with that. I think the endless footwork practice on 4s and 5s has actually had a positive effect on my climbing. Which is nice. Still battling the weight. Still failing a bit at that.
In reply to AJM:
Hiya mate,
Cham was good thanks - rather fast paced as it was a weekend hit so all the lack of sleep has officially f*cked me right up and I've got the flu this week. Last week was good though!
M: 1hr bouldering indoors. Ticked the whole orange/black circuit V1-V2 (all flashed). Followed by a 10.8km Z1 run home.
T: 1hr strength session w/core routine warmup.
W: 1hr bouldering indoors. Worked through most of the blue V2-V3 circuit (couldn't get on a few as it was so busy). Flashed all except 2. 10.8km Z1 run home afterwards.
T: Rest, packed for Cham.
F: Travelling to Cham, didn't get to bed until 3am.
S: Up at 6am, first bin up to the midi. Skied down to the Supercouloir (ED1 6) in terrible style, skinned up to the route (fun!) and started climbing. Some dodgy route-finding by my partner on the first pitch led to 40m of sustained technical dry tooling with smears or nothing for feet, followed by a 10m step of vertical ice with a bulge at the top. Burnt through way too much time low down on the route so we chose to bail rather than get benighted. Skied out to the Requin hut.
S: Up at 6am, skinned up to Ice is Nice (TD) on the Dent du Requin. Climbed to the top of the difficulties (where most parties turn around.) We fancied topping it out to the Breche so tried to carry on but my partner ended up off route. Happy to have got the main climbing done we called it a day. I skied out in the most terrible style imaginable. Back in Cham for 9:30! Up at 3:30am for a transfer to Geneva and then back at the desk by 9:30 Monday!
I've finally answered the age-old question about climbers ski touring, answer is you really should be a good skier before you do this shit. I have about 1.5 weeks of piste experience, parallel turns, confident on red runs yada yada but I totally sucked this weekend. Off-piste is totally nails - trying to execute jump turns with a heavy pack and tired legs from nearly 1000m of ascent earlier in the day was a bit much for me.
Anyway, a fun week despite all the alpine spankage and the psyche is high. Technically it's still 'winter' out there, too, so I feel gnarly claiming 'winter' attempts!
Last week's goals: Get a monthly pass to the wall, get down there twice this week. tick, happy with this. productive sessions 24km worth of running. managed 21.6km, wanted to go on a short run on Thursday to tip this over but didn't want to be burnt out on the weekend. still happy. Get some weights ASAP and get 2 workouts done. nope, still need to do this Tick something good in the alps! gonna claim it - got some mileage, even if no cumbres or cumbreches!
STG (this week): I'm not going to bother setting these retrospectively - had the flu all week so just want to recover from that and maybe get a run in on Sunday if I'm feeling good.
Hiya mate,
Cham was good thanks - rather fast paced as it was a weekend hit so all the lack of sleep has officially f*cked me right up and I've got the flu this week. Last week was good though!
M: 1hr bouldering indoors. Ticked the whole orange/black circuit V1-V2 (all flashed). Followed by a 10.8km Z1 run home.
T: 1hr strength session w/core routine warmup.
W: 1hr bouldering indoors. Worked through most of the blue V2-V3 circuit (couldn't get on a few as it was so busy). Flashed all except 2. 10.8km Z1 run home afterwards.
T: Rest, packed for Cham.
F: Travelling to Cham, didn't get to bed until 3am.
S: Up at 6am, first bin up to the midi. Skied down to the Supercouloir (ED1 6) in terrible style, skinned up to the route (fun!) and started climbing. Some dodgy route-finding by my partner on the first pitch led to 40m of sustained technical dry tooling with smears or nothing for feet, followed by a 10m step of vertical ice with a bulge at the top. Burnt through way too much time low down on the route so we chose to bail rather than get benighted. Skied out to the Requin hut.
S: Up at 6am, skinned up to Ice is Nice (TD) on the Dent du Requin. Climbed to the top of the difficulties (where most parties turn around.) We fancied topping it out to the Breche so tried to carry on but my partner ended up off route. Happy to have got the main climbing done we called it a day. I skied out in the most terrible style imaginable. Back in Cham for 9:30! Up at 3:30am for a transfer to Geneva and then back at the desk by 9:30 Monday!
I've finally answered the age-old question about climbers ski touring, answer is you really should be a good skier before you do this shit. I have about 1.5 weeks of piste experience, parallel turns, confident on red runs yada yada but I totally sucked this weekend. Off-piste is totally nails - trying to execute jump turns with a heavy pack and tired legs from nearly 1000m of ascent earlier in the day was a bit much for me.
Anyway, a fun week despite all the alpine spankage and the psyche is high. Technically it's still 'winter' out there, too, so I feel gnarly claiming 'winter' attempts!
Last week's goals: Get a monthly pass to the wall, get down there twice this week. tick, happy with this. productive sessions 24km worth of running. managed 21.6km, wanted to go on a short run on Thursday to tip this over but didn't want to be burnt out on the weekend. still happy. Get some weights ASAP and get 2 workouts done. nope, still need to do this Tick something good in the alps! gonna claim it - got some mileage, even if no cumbres or cumbreches!
STG (this week): I'm not going to bother setting these retrospectively - had the flu all week so just want to recover from that and maybe get a run in on Sunday if I'm feeling good.
1
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
Have to be a holiday rather than a long weekend for me but I do like Skye and I've not done the ridge either.....
Have to be a holiday rather than a long weekend for me but I do like Skye and I've not done the ridge either.....
1
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for doing FC the last couple of months AJM! To be honest about kitesurfing, since I started climbing I only did it once, after doing it 2 times per week for 8 years. But I must say I look forward to kite again this summer and would definitely recommend you to try it again .
M: Still considerable avalanche danger, but the windslabs they warned for didn’t really occur, we did some snowpack tests and the snow wasn’t windpacked. So did three really nice north facing slopes which where quite steep.
T: two more nice runs. Visibility went bad, so dug a snowpit and did some fracturetests and practiced multiple burial situations afterwards.
W: travel back
T: indoor bouldering, opted for a relaxed session, but ended up trying a 6C+/7A. Should go soon.
F: rest
S: ice climbing. Bailed on a WI5+, ice quality was weird, my mate wanted to bail and that sounded sensible. Probably the last day with ice here for the season .
S: plan was to go outside, but everything was wet. Went bouldering indoors, which turned out well, did the 6C+/7A from wednesday first try, flashed a 6C and a 6B/C and did another 6B/C.
STG (next 2 weeks): climb outside. Nope, I meant rock, not ice, but still a nope.
Thanks for doing FC the last couple of months AJM! To be honest about kitesurfing, since I started climbing I only did it once, after doing it 2 times per week for 8 years. But I must say I look forward to kite again this summer and would definitely recommend you to try it again .
M: Still considerable avalanche danger, but the windslabs they warned for didn’t really occur, we did some snowpack tests and the snow wasn’t windpacked. So did three really nice north facing slopes which where quite steep.
T: two more nice runs. Visibility went bad, so dug a snowpit and did some fracturetests and practiced multiple burial situations afterwards.
W: travel back
T: indoor bouldering, opted for a relaxed session, but ended up trying a 6C+/7A. Should go soon.
F: rest
S: ice climbing. Bailed on a WI5+, ice quality was weird, my mate wanted to bail and that sounded sensible. Probably the last day with ice here for the season .
S: plan was to go outside, but everything was wet. Went bouldering indoors, which turned out well, did the 6C+/7A from wednesday first try, flashed a 6C and a 6B/C and did another 6B/C.
STG (next 2 weeks): climb outside. Nope, I meant rock, not ice, but still a nope.
In reply to AJM:
Bit of a late and rubbish reply due to being a bit ill. Cheers for the thread Andy.
Last week was pretty full as usual. I did my 10 miles running on hills, PiYo, circuit training and 4 climbing sessions. There were 2 things I was chuffed about - I managed sally up, sally down leg raises all the way through and did finally got 2 complete circuits on the training was at Depot. The training wall was only on a F6a+ but it was a figure eight so a smidgen longer, still a best effort for me.
I might miss this week's as it's been a bit of a right off.
Bit of a late and rubbish reply due to being a bit ill. Cheers for the thread Andy.
Last week was pretty full as usual. I did my 10 miles running on hills, PiYo, circuit training and 4 climbing sessions. There were 2 things I was chuffed about - I managed sally up, sally down leg raises all the way through and did finally got 2 complete circuits on the training was at Depot. The training wall was only on a F6a+ but it was a figure eight so a smidgen longer, still a best effort for me.
I might miss this week's as it's been a bit of a right off.
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