UKC

Well hello there!

I'm all brand new and shiney here! Been indoor climbing for around 6 or 7 weeks and it's about the best decision I've ever made, just a shame it took to 33 to start. I'm within an hour or so of the peaks living in the East Midlands.

I'm a shorty but light and strong so been focus song on technique where I can.

Couple of questions though....

First, at what point would you start looking at leading indoors? I'm currently climbing successfully about half of the 6a+ I try after a few attempts and normally get to the top of a 6a first time although it's a challenge and depends on the route characteristics.

Second, I'd love to get outdoors on some trad routes but would I be better served staying indoors and working on technique for a while longer?

Thanks people!

When to lean to lead, depends on what grades the lead routes at you wall start at (provided they've got some routes at grade 5 or below, you're good to go now). I'd recommend learning to lead indoors as there's less to distract you.

Who are you climbing with? Another newbie or a more experienced partner? If another newbie, lead courses are usually £50-70 between two and go through all the essentials.


Provided you've got a competent leader to take you up the easy stuff, there are loads of classic and really enjoyable Diffs and VDiffs, which you'd be fine on now. Based on your indoor grades, you should be able to progress quickly through the grades on second.

In reply to KennyG:

I would say get leading indoors as soon as possible, it'll increase the amount and variety of routes you can do, helping you improve faster. As long as you are aware of, and understand the different dangers involved, often learned through an intro to lead course down the local wall, or through more experienced friends, you'll be fine

And if you want to get out and do some trad, get out and do it. It's never too early to learn how to place gear, in my opinion the sooner the better. Every time you place a bit of gear, you make a judgement on it, the more experience you have, the better the judgement you can make. Like leading indoors, its a good idea to go on a learn to lead course or get more experienced friends to take you out. definitely get out and second some people first though.

Have fun, stay safe, and good luck

In reply to KennyG:

I'd think about learning to lead pretty soon, either on a course or with a friend who has some experience.

Don't be surprised if you drop back to 5a and find that hard, it's for a few reason:
1. Generally at climbing walls the lead routes are longer and sometimes harder.
2. You will be less likely to commit to difficult moves.
3. You will have to hang around clipping until you get efficient and that costs energy.

In reply to treforsouthwell:

4. The "fear" of being above your protection or simply "on lead" will cause you to over grip and pump up sooner until you get used to it and more confident (bear this in mind and try to relax)

In reply to KennyG:

Is a new noob newer than a noob?

In reply to KennyG:

I would say get leading & outdoors as soon as possible. Don't worry about grades.
In my experience you are better doing as many routes as possible, and thrashing up a route that is too hard just tires you out - you build your fitness faster by doing lots of easy routes.

In reply to KennyG:

Welcome to the exciting world of climbing and UKC!

I would suggest joining a local climbing club. It's great to share your passion with folk who understand and you learn a lot from everyone there.

Have fun!

PS. Put some more info on your profile too.

In reply to KennyG:

Thanks everyone! I think I will have a look to see what lead grades they have on my local wall, if they have anything around a 5 I will get cracking with a leading course when I get paid.

I will also contact the local climbing club and see if I can rope (blatant pun intended) a few into letting me tag along, even if it's just to have a look and learn a bit more about what's required.

I guess the message is just to crack on, no one learnt or discovered anything new by sitting on their arses (apart from Newton).

Ken

In reply to KennyG:

Don't forget that all of us of a certain age started out without the benefit of an indoor wall. Don't expect it to feel the same - just enjoy it

In reply to KennyG:

Welcome!

My advice would be to start leading a grade or two below your top rope grade. No need to limit yourself to top rope only for months and months before leading, but firstly read some articles or books to swot up on the techniques and the things to avoid (e.g. avoid back clipping).