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Cycle touring Oman

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 olliehales 29 Mar 2016
I have got the itch for a cycle tour later this year, most likely be solo as my previous touring partner has commitments this year. Previous experience has shown that booking a flight way in advance is the way to go.

We had a fantastic 3 weeks touring Morocco last year, and as such I quite fancy something of a similar ilk next time around.

This has led me to Oman - with reasonably(ish) priced flights from the UK to Muscat.

Does anyone have any experience of touring Oman? I quite fancy riding from Muscat via Sur, en route to Masirah Island. I have read that distances between settlements can be large, thus I plan on camping out.

I will most likely only have two weeks or so and have not route planned any further than this yet.

Welcome any feedback

Ollie.
 s1362083 29 Mar 2016
In reply to olliehales:

I looked into Oman cycle touring and decided against it.

The distances are large between places, traffic on main roads is terrible, info on small roads is hard to get and the scenery doesn't change very quickly (morocco is awesome for that!) so you may have to endure some boring stretches. Also depending on time of year temperatures will obviously be an issue.

If you're not fixed on a location Oman isn't the first place to look for cycling touring in my opinion even though it is awesome for a road trip.

If you're after something a bit different but with cheap flights in that timescale i can recommend Georgia or Pamir highway from personal experience, but depends on time of year!
OP olliehales 29 Mar 2016
In reply to s1362083:

Thanks for the feedback. I have already dreamt of the pamir highway for the last few years. Though ideally I would want full month out there to do Dushanbe to Osh and not be rushed.

Not sure why Oman initially appeals, a little more off the tourist trail, and have heard the people are very welcoming as per Morocco.

Had not considered Georgia as an alternative. Jordan has also been on my mind, as a friend in our club has recently visited wadi rum & Petra and it looks beautiful.

I have also considered riding much further south in Morocco, to the Tropic of Cancer, with Dahkla as the end point.

Plenty to think on, thanks for the advice, Oman not out of the picture entirely
 Becky E 29 Mar 2016
In reply to olliehales:

Speaking as a non-cyclist:

The network of tarmac roads in Oman is expanding, but the interesting scenery is to be found on the dirt roads. You'll need to go in Winter (November at the earliest) for bearable temperatures. Habitations are pretty spread out, and you'll need to carry plenty of water (but no need for a tent).

The roads in and around Muscat are absolutely mental. Elsewhere it's okay because there's less traffic.

Oman IS interesting, but probably better with a vehicle.
OP olliehales 29 Mar 2016
In reply to Becky E:

Thanks for the reply, I would be looking at November/December for the lower temperatures. We rode a small amount of piste road in Morocco and agree that this and the mountains were the highlight.

Perhaps Jordan would be more interesting. Have also heard wonderful things about the scenery and people in Iran, however I am a little nervy about going there on my own.

Apologies I appear to just be musing aloud! Essentially I am after winter sun, and I would like to spend more time in the Maghreb or Arabic world having loved my recent two visits to Morocco.

Relative safety required, this steered me towards Oman and possibly Jordan, as I am a little uncertain with the remaining North African countries.
 s1362083 29 Mar 2016
In reply to olliehales:

I got a lift from Dushanbe to kalaikum and was glad for it because the scenery is not spectacular and road is busy. Took about 10 days to osh but it felt like a rush and we had no contingency for weather. If you're hoping to avoid tourists go early or late in the season and hope for good weather! That's what we did and saw no other tourists but we got the feeling it's becoming quite busy with cyclists now. Political situation is pretty dynamic but I didn't feel unsafe at any point so it's more a question of whether you can get the gbao permit or not.

Don't think Georgia will be great in winter. High roads were closed with snow around Easter time last year.

As for Oman, I'd recommend scrolling down your route in Google earth and checking out the user uploaded photos to get a feel for the scenery and if it is monotonous. Also bear in mind that whilst life on the road will be cheap getting back to Muscat from masirah will probably be quite expensive/faffy if you're not planning on riding back. Oman is expensive unless you are just riding, camping and eating in little Indian restaurants.
 adam06 29 Mar 2016
I didnt go on a biking tour, but i say go for it, great place and friendly people. Big culture shock. Be prepared though, I went in December and I don't think it went below 30 degrees day or night! Also be careful as road deaths are high.. They are quite crazy drivers.. Be prepared to do a lot of dirt track biking too as the number of surfaced roads are limited considering the size of the country.
Rigid Raider 30 Mar 2016
In reply to olliehales:

That sounds awful. Why not go somewhere people actually cycle, like Vietnam? I've heard nothing but good reports from that country and at least it has an interesting culture.
 1234None 30 Mar 2016
In reply to olliehales:
No experience of cycling in Oman but I have done the trip from Muscat to Masirah (via Sur) by road, with lots of camping in amazing locations on the way. As others have said there are long sections of the trip where the scenery doesn't change much, but it is still stunning!

Camping is definitely the way to go, but there are also places to stay en route and I'd be surprised if you didn't at least find a small hotel or some locals willing to give you a floor to kip on in every place you found yourself.

As for the traffic being bad, as another poster said, I'm not sure where they meant but once out of Muscat there is hardly any traffic. Quriyat, Fins, Tiwi, Sur, Ras Al Hadd, Al Ashkarah are all good stopping points. Once South of Al Ashkarah there isn't much, from what I remember, but there are some great dune and spot to camp on the beach, right by the road.

Masirah itself is stunning in a desolate kind of way. We camped on a remote beach in the South of the Island and woke up to find nesting turtles by the tent. Very good memories if catching huge fish in the surf then grilling them over a fire with local fishermen.
Post edited at 10:16
OP olliehales 30 Mar 2016
In reply to 1234None:

Thanks for the feeback I like the look of the towns along the ocean coast especially, perhaps I could then head inland, stopping off for a day at Wadi Bani Khalid, en route to Nizwa to see the mountains and then returning to Muscat.

I can give the Island a miss this time around perhaps. Can't seem to find many if any hostels/cheap accommodation online, thus looks like a tent on the pannier rack may well be the best option here!

Still pretty much sold on Oman - everyone's feedback has been very helpful! Just need to book the flight.

Thanks all,

Ollie.

 1234None 30 Mar 2016
In reply to olliehales:
You'll find plenty of places to stay just by showing up. We found some cheap, good places in some really out-of-the-way spots.

Plenty of places to stay on Masirah. There is a great little place by a lagoon in Sur, Masirah (not to be confused with the Sur on the mainland) with little wooden huts...mostly used by kitesurfers. Good Indian and Omani food on site, but also some of the biggest scorpion and cockroach specimems you will ever see! Fascinating spot with huge rays swimming around in the lagoon. Just South of the lagoon are a few beaches with some of the best coral I have ever seen. Also a couple of hotels in Hilf. Small, low key places but just show up and they will have rooms. One of the great things about Oman is that once you are off the beaten track not much advance booking/planning is required (or even possible). You'll always find a place to stay and eat. We have been to Oman 5 times over the past 18 months and have spent about half our time in hotels, with the rest camping. We have a 2 year-old so we do the hotels every few days just for some home comforts and to get properly clean. We have never booked anything apart from a first night in Muscat for a late arriving flight.

Wadi Bani Khalid looks like it could have some good climbing in the future, but as a non-climbing "destination" I thought Wadi Shab and Wadi Al Arbeieen were much better. Horses for courses I suppose.

The Nizwa area is good. I wouldn't fancy the ride up onto the Jebel Akhdar myself, but if you do then it'd be worth it. Stunning up on the plateau.
Post edited at 13:41

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