UKC

I currently own a pair of old fuzzy 8.5mm 50m half ropes. What treatment they had has long since come off and they've had their run of trad on sharp granite and ice climbing/mountaineering in French alps.

So time to reinvest.

For a trip to climb some big mountains in central asia I'm waying up the pros and cons of either

1- Two 60m half ropes. Might go down to 7.5mm. (nice if we run into technical terrain that requires more pro).
2-One 60m single of 8.1mm with 60m of 6mm or 7mm tag line for abseils (Only ever used such a system once before but it seemed to work)

Option 1 gives plenty of options and weighs total of 5040g (=42g/m for 120m). It's a familiar system and feels more redundant.

Option 2 is less familiar but weighs total of 3900g (42g/m + 23g/m each for 60m =2520+1380)

Routes should be almost completely snow and ice. Thoughts

In reply to tistimetogo:

Option 1. Familiar, redundant. These are good words.
Option 2. Thicker than 8.1mm. ...and pack a few skinny slings in addition to your normal.

In reply to tistimetogo:

I changed from Beal Cobra (8.6mm) to Beal Icelines (8.1mm) about ten years ago. The difference is way bigger than the nominal reduction in diameter would lead you to expect. A bit unnerving at first as they seem so much thinner, but you soon get used to it. Better handling and wear due to different sheath weave, and also allow you to go to smaller, lighter biners.

And as above, familiar and redundant. Those I've known going the tagline route have generally ended up clipping as a second leadline at some point; don't do this as cord is not dynamic. I too would choose a thicker mainline of going the lead and tag route.

Also worth looking at belay devices carefully for either option, you don't want to discover a lack of control on your first ab.

In reply to tistimetogo:

I recently bought new half ropes (icelines) for winter and using on trips. I noticed the new version is now 39g/m so only 4680g for a pair of 8.1mm 60s. They are very slick (almost to a fault as they can be hard to keep in a pile on belay ledges) and the dry treatment has been good so far. I haven't had them long enough to comment on durability.

Also lighter options available such as Beal Gully (4320g per pair) or Mammut Twilight (4560g per pair).

I suppose a drawback of option 1, even with lighter ropes, if the ground doesn't require 2 ropes and one person is carrying the other rope in a pack most of the time it would be a greater burden than the equivalent length of tat.

Interested in views on the triple-rated singe plus tag line vs halves debate as I have considered picking up a tripe-rated rope for alpine use.

In reply to Brian Pollock:

Thanks for the replies. I'm leaning away from the tag line option now.

Icelines were in the running but are now looking relatively heavy.

Considering the lighter options you mentioned (Beal Gully - 7,3mm and Mammut Twilight) might be the way forward. Leaning towards the Twilight.

Will have to experiment with belay devices, my Black Diamond ATC Guide is only recommended for 7.7 mm - 11 mm. May be looking at a Petzl Reverso 4.

Cheers.