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Just a placeholder for now, currently in France without laptop so will sit down and bosh out the stats on my phone this evening.
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks Alex.
I have re-cast my goals in to the more traditional and flexible short/medium/long-term ones, as I feel I was being too restrictive on myself with them as they were (month-by-month).
[For example, my previous goals would have forced me to get on Wright's Traverse again on my next session out, whereas I'm actually more psyched first to finish off another 7B at the Churnet call The Unicorn].
STGs (next 1-2 months):
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Wright's Traverse (f7B)
- moffatrocity (f7B+)
- Do a selection of other Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs as time permits
MTGs (next 3-6 months):
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- More Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs and hopefully Ft7B+s
LTG (6-12 months):
- F8a
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)
(I was on a non-climbing holiday with Ruth from Monday through Friday, and then away at a wedding Saturday, returned lunchtime today.)
M: Shoulder rehab and core exercises in the morning. Did a 8-9 mile walk around the end of the Lleyn peninsula from Aberdaron.
T: Light core workout in the morning. Had an epic day on Crib Goch; the ascent turned out to be much more wintry than expected with quite a bit of frozen snow and rime about near the top (I really shouldn't have taken Ruth up there, we were just in walking boots) and the descent was in a 2-hour snowstorm.
W: R&R!
T: Had my half-day's climbing for the week in the morning and went to the Pass for some bouldering. Good session - I did The Edge Problem (f6C+), Johnny's Wall (V6) and King of Drunks (V6). Also did all the moves on The Witch (f7B) btu didn;t have enough energy and time to link it. (Thanks for the recommendations Jimmy.)
F: Light core workout in the morning. Did a fingerboard (max hang) session in the evening after we got home. My usual format of 4 x 10 second hangs with added weight on 3 hold types. Added weight was: +29.9kg on an 18mm 4-finger edge (the big pockets on a BM2000, with an AA battery in the back), +4.5kg on the small 2 finger pockets, +4.5kg on ceiling pinches.
S: No climbing/training. Wedding indulgence. (I only actually drank 2-3 glasses of fizz and a pint of beer, but it has still really affected me - I am a proper lightweight these days. Also a lot of food although mitigated slightly by energetic Ceilidh-ing.)
S: Drove home in the morning but felt too tired to go outside climbing this afternoon/evening. Did a fingerboard session instead and decided to mix it up by doing a repeater session. Did 4 sets of 6 reps of 7s on / 3s off on the 18mm edge, with 4 min rest in between each set. Then did 3 sets of 6 reps of 7s on / 3s off on the good pocket with front three, then did 3 sets of 6 reps of 7s on / 3s off on the good pocket with back three (again, all with 4 minute rests between sets). I failed due to power-out (not pump) on the 6th rep of all 4 18mm edge sets, and on the 5th rep of the final set. I didn't fail on any of the front/back three sets although I came pretty close. I didn't feel fully recovered after each 4 minute rest, but results suggest I wasn't far off. I'm hoping all this is good for training my ability to pull off lots of hard moves in a row.
Weight last Friday night (ie nine days ago, just before going on holiday) was 11 st 3lbs. I also measured it this Friday night post-holiday, and it was flat ie still 11st3. I'll weigh again tonight and use that as baseline for next week.
Had a good holiday and got more climbing/training done than I might have done, so pleased with the week. And now the hour has gone back I'm hoping to get some more evening sessions in outside too.
Any expert opinion welcome on the repeater session above and what it is training. I'll adapt it in future - my intent with fingerboard training is now to mix in repeater sessions with max hang sessions, rather than just doing max hang sessions. For strength/endurance comparison purposes, as luck would have it, with a 4 finger 18mm edge, I am just failing on the final rep of a 6 rep repeater workout with 0 kg, on the same hold as I can do a single 10 second hang with maximum + 30 kg. I'm guessing this makes me relatively strong but with low endurance (ie my repeater performance should be better), but would love to hear others' equivalent benchmarks.
Si
P.S. first experiment with putting in links to the database - hopefully they have worked.
Thanks Alex.
I have re-cast my goals in to the more traditional and flexible short/medium/long-term ones, as I feel I was being too restrictive on myself with them as they were (month-by-month).
[For example, my previous goals would have forced me to get on Wright's Traverse again on my next session out, whereas I'm actually more psyched first to finish off another 7B at the Churnet call The Unicorn].
STGs (next 1-2 months):
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Wright's Traverse (f7B)
- moffatrocity (f7B+)
- Do a selection of other Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs as time permits
MTGs (next 3-6 months):
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- More Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs and hopefully Ft7B+s
LTG (6-12 months):
- F8a
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)
(I was on a non-climbing holiday with Ruth from Monday through Friday, and then away at a wedding Saturday, returned lunchtime today.)
M: Shoulder rehab and core exercises in the morning. Did a 8-9 mile walk around the end of the Lleyn peninsula from Aberdaron.
T: Light core workout in the morning. Had an epic day on Crib Goch; the ascent turned out to be much more wintry than expected with quite a bit of frozen snow and rime about near the top (I really shouldn't have taken Ruth up there, we were just in walking boots) and the descent was in a 2-hour snowstorm.
W: R&R!
T: Had my half-day's climbing for the week in the morning and went to the Pass for some bouldering. Good session - I did The Edge Problem (f6C+), Johnny's Wall (V6) and King of Drunks (V6). Also did all the moves on The Witch (f7B) btu didn;t have enough energy and time to link it. (Thanks for the recommendations Jimmy.)
F: Light core workout in the morning. Did a fingerboard (max hang) session in the evening after we got home. My usual format of 4 x 10 second hangs with added weight on 3 hold types. Added weight was: +29.9kg on an 18mm 4-finger edge (the big pockets on a BM2000, with an AA battery in the back), +4.5kg on the small 2 finger pockets, +4.5kg on ceiling pinches.
S: No climbing/training. Wedding indulgence. (I only actually drank 2-3 glasses of fizz and a pint of beer, but it has still really affected me - I am a proper lightweight these days. Also a lot of food although mitigated slightly by energetic Ceilidh-ing.)
S: Drove home in the morning but felt too tired to go outside climbing this afternoon/evening. Did a fingerboard session instead and decided to mix it up by doing a repeater session. Did 4 sets of 6 reps of 7s on / 3s off on the 18mm edge, with 4 min rest in between each set. Then did 3 sets of 6 reps of 7s on / 3s off on the good pocket with front three, then did 3 sets of 6 reps of 7s on / 3s off on the good pocket with back three (again, all with 4 minute rests between sets). I failed due to power-out (not pump) on the 6th rep of all 4 18mm edge sets, and on the 5th rep of the final set. I didn't fail on any of the front/back three sets although I came pretty close. I didn't feel fully recovered after each 4 minute rest, but results suggest I wasn't far off. I'm hoping all this is good for training my ability to pull off lots of hard moves in a row.
Weight last Friday night (ie nine days ago, just before going on holiday) was 11 st 3lbs. I also measured it this Friday night post-holiday, and it was flat ie still 11st3. I'll weigh again tonight and use that as baseline for next week.
Had a good holiday and got more climbing/training done than I might have done, so pleased with the week. And now the hour has gone back I'm hoping to get some more evening sessions in outside too.
Any expert opinion welcome on the repeater session above and what it is training. I'll adapt it in future - my intent with fingerboard training is now to mix in repeater sessions with max hang sessions, rather than just doing max hang sessions. For strength/endurance comparison purposes, as luck would have it, with a 4 finger 18mm edge, I am just failing on the final rep of a 6 rep repeater workout with 0 kg, on the same hold as I can do a single 10 second hang with maximum + 30 kg. I'm guessing this makes me relatively strong but with low endurance (ie my repeater performance should be better), but would love to hear others' equivalent benchmarks.
Si
P.S. first experiment with putting in links to the database - hopefully they have worked.
2
In reply to Si dH:
I agree with the more relaxed, yet still specific enough, goal system. I find that my psyche levels change quite a bit but stay higher the more relaxed my goals are.
I agree with the more relaxed, yet still specific enough, goal system. I find that my psyche levels change quite a bit but stay higher the more relaxed my goals are.
In reply to alexm198:
Hello FitClubbers! Hope you all had a good week.
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=637535
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: vimeo.com/74389041 watching this has occasionally made me stop whatever else I'm doing, put on my trainers and thrash out a run or get a strength session in. you have been warned...
Si dH: good work on the Unicorn! Rested and ready to crush after a week away, I'd imagine?
Emily: glad you got some positives out of the discussion. Always nice to know other people have the same issues your week doesn't look too 'lazy' to me!
biscuit: cheers for the heads up on the TrainingBeta podcast - I'll check it out. Did you get those final aero pow sessions in? Do you have specific goals for Chullila?
JayK: I think anyone would've caved in for a chinese and a curry after a week at work like that! Where's your trip to/where are you going?
Robin Brooke: keeping up the discipline on the shoulder rehab? seeing improvements?
Tyler: how's it going in Spain?
AJM: get any more 'Murican ticks?
TonyB: "it was only 12h"... tell me that's a typo!? Should I be doing 12h sessions at the wall?! Arrived in Font safely?
Nick Russell: bad luck with the cancelled flight. You should look into pursuing compensation from the airline if it's their fault, I've just got a load of compensation back from a cancelled flight pre-christmas. Should help pay for the next trip...
hms: good effort keeping the training volume up! interesting about the pre-attempt nerves. Has it been getting worse over time or always the same level?
planetmarshall: sounds busy! same again this week?
flopsicle: good effort on getting out despite feeling a bit rough. Do you find this has helped recovery? I generally prefer to hunker down for a few days, not do anything, sleep a lot and eat well and then get back to training afterwards. Not sure what others' experiences are?
James Moyle: can't go far wrong with lots and lots of uphill for alpine training. Lots of Z1 is advocated by a lot of the literature and Steve House so sounds like you're on the right track! What are your alpine goals this year?
Dandan82: Hope the weather's good out in Spain, is muchos sending occuring?
mattrm: Thanks man, yeah it's a pretty mindblowing video! Surely that should get you psyched for the ice, not wanting to sit it out! do you have a rough plan of action for how you're going to get between where you are now and ticking the 7a?
Just Tintin: psycheeee! FCA - first casted ascent?
Ally Smith: great couple of weeks! where were you skiing?
hokkyokusei: Peru sounds like it'll be fantastic. How was the Baildon Boundary Way?
Ian Bell: sounds like some good things learnt in France, will that inform training going forward?
Joughton: what are you studying? ooooh baby those student holidays tho. make the most of it you jammy bastard. Also Fiesta looks sick, would love to do that one day. and mega effort on the 7c+ o/s attempt!
stevemarkperry: ah Easter chocolate, the death-knell of many a training plan. any progress on the STGs? What's the time frame on these?
Curious Yellow: I can definitely empathise with your Sunday...! More productive week this week?
0.5viking: awesome! I'm astounded you're still managing to climb ice - where do you live!? interesting about the technique. I've always been taught to stand up fully and lock off on the higher axe, but use some of that upward momentum from standing up to help pull the lower axe out as you move past it (essentially all one movement). Not sure if that makes sense?
Hello FitClubbers! Hope you all had a good week.
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=637535
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: vimeo.com/74389041 watching this has occasionally made me stop whatever else I'm doing, put on my trainers and thrash out a run or get a strength session in. you have been warned...
Si dH: good work on the Unicorn! Rested and ready to crush after a week away, I'd imagine?
Emily: glad you got some positives out of the discussion. Always nice to know other people have the same issues your week doesn't look too 'lazy' to me!
biscuit: cheers for the heads up on the TrainingBeta podcast - I'll check it out. Did you get those final aero pow sessions in? Do you have specific goals for Chullila?
JayK: I think anyone would've caved in for a chinese and a curry after a week at work like that! Where's your trip to/where are you going?
Robin Brooke: keeping up the discipline on the shoulder rehab? seeing improvements?
Tyler: how's it going in Spain?
AJM: get any more 'Murican ticks?
TonyB: "it was only 12h"... tell me that's a typo!? Should I be doing 12h sessions at the wall?! Arrived in Font safely?
Nick Russell: bad luck with the cancelled flight. You should look into pursuing compensation from the airline if it's their fault, I've just got a load of compensation back from a cancelled flight pre-christmas. Should help pay for the next trip...
hms: good effort keeping the training volume up! interesting about the pre-attempt nerves. Has it been getting worse over time or always the same level?
planetmarshall: sounds busy! same again this week?
flopsicle: good effort on getting out despite feeling a bit rough. Do you find this has helped recovery? I generally prefer to hunker down for a few days, not do anything, sleep a lot and eat well and then get back to training afterwards. Not sure what others' experiences are?
James Moyle: can't go far wrong with lots and lots of uphill for alpine training. Lots of Z1 is advocated by a lot of the literature and Steve House so sounds like you're on the right track! What are your alpine goals this year?
Dandan82: Hope the weather's good out in Spain, is muchos sending occuring?
mattrm: Thanks man, yeah it's a pretty mindblowing video! Surely that should get you psyched for the ice, not wanting to sit it out! do you have a rough plan of action for how you're going to get between where you are now and ticking the 7a?
Just Tintin: psycheeee! FCA - first casted ascent?
Ally Smith: great couple of weeks! where were you skiing?
hokkyokusei: Peru sounds like it'll be fantastic. How was the Baildon Boundary Way?
Ian Bell: sounds like some good things learnt in France, will that inform training going forward?
Joughton: what are you studying? ooooh baby those student holidays tho. make the most of it you jammy bastard. Also Fiesta looks sick, would love to do that one day. and mega effort on the 7c+ o/s attempt!
stevemarkperry: ah Easter chocolate, the death-knell of many a training plan. any progress on the STGs? What's the time frame on these?
Curious Yellow: I can definitely empathise with your Sunday...! More productive week this week?
0.5viking: awesome! I'm astounded you're still managing to climb ice - where do you live!? interesting about the technique. I've always been taught to stand up fully and lock off on the higher axe, but use some of that upward momentum from standing up to help pull the lower axe out as you move past it (essentially all one movement). Not sure if that makes sense?
1
In reply to alexm198:
Cheers Alex. Yeah, I got some good problems done in the end, and tried a lot more that I didn't finish. All in all an excellent trip with a good blend of climbing and touristing (Vegas, Death Valley and Eastern Sierra microbreweries, plus some mountain biking).
Learned some tactical stuff too - I think despite it being relatively short days (compared with a roped trip) the days were a lot more intense than I had expected (especially since I was trying harder problems rather than opting for mileage) which in combination with the skin issues on the sharp rock meant that scheduling a double rest day in the middle of a fortnight trip (as we did in SA last year) is probably a pretty good idea. I basically ended up doing the same amount of days as that would have entailed anyway because I was definitely feeling the pace a bit towards the end of the trip, a bit of burn out going on.
I also need to try and figure out what my main weakness with bouldering is. I did 2 V6s (good, but by the standards of the area relatively unknown) pretty quickly, but at the same time failed consistently despite good quality efforts on several more (mainly the *** classics I'd really hoped to be doing), and on High Plains Drifter (THE classic bishop V7) I got basically nowhere. I've always been a very inconsistent boulderer, but my last set of feedback from Tom suggested I should be able to do V7/8 based on my finger strength and I can see from FC that people with similar sorts of finger strength readings to me (primarily Si and Joyce) are getting a lot more out of them. I'm going to try to do some benchmarking this week of where I'm at and see if there's anything I can figure out. Thoughts so far include:
- I struggled several times (HPD and also the far easier Ironman) with heels, particularly where the heel is on a smallish hold with the wall overhanging above it making it a bit more difficult to use. I also pulled something in my leg heel hooking too hard on a problem (Shrimp traverse) and also felt a tweak from pulling in very hard with a toe on Green Wall Centre. I've done this a number of times before in the past too. This leads me to wonder if my ability to pull with my feet is weak due to weak glutes/etc pushing more reliance onto my arms and leading to tweaks when that isn't possible.
- I'm rubbish at outdoor dynos. I don't know if this is an outdoor thing or whether its merely a symptom of not being terribly powerful (never been that strong on campus board etc although I don't know what "benchmark" level V6, V7 or V8 are at)
- Fiddly holds you have to hit static (GWC) highlighted an ability to hold awkward shoulder lockoffs, although this may be down to the next point rather than a shoulder weakness, hard to say. Shoulders have never been my strong suit though.
- Potentially equivalent performance on one grip type vs others masks a weakness compared to others at well-rounded-ness (GWC press is off a slopey crimp, 7 Spanish Angels has a sloper and slopey pinch you jump off, etc).
Plenty of things to think about.
Post bishop also means new goals which I've listed below. Not going to do a blow by blow of the Bishop/Vegas climbing we did although if anyone has any questions I'm happy to try to answer. Brilliant place, hard on the skin, Buttermilks are world class and so picturesque, Happys/Sads I got on with less well (good bouldering that happens to be near the buttermilks . Tons of other areas we didnt get anywhere near - so much stuff to do next time. We did half a day bouldering at Red Rocks too which I'd go back to if I was in Vegas again but wouldn't cross the atlantic for in its own right.
Old STG - Easter
- V6/7 (7A/+) in Albarracin (2x 7A), Bishop (2x V6 but many failures) and at home (1x 7A). Try a local V8 - nothing harder than V6/7A done.
- short trip 8a send (Mediterraneo (8a)? No dice although progress)
- local things to look at - Hall of Mirrors (7c), Nightmare Scenario (7c), maybe Fighting Torque (8a) - barely tied on
- get the regular weight logging back on track and manage the weight back down - managed this pretty well
STG - by 14th August
- continue bouldering - have some ideas for evening projects to work on
- at least one more weekend in this period on The Cider Soak (8a) - do all the moves and improve links. Not sure when to devote solid time to this one yet.
- local things to look at - Hall of Mirrors (7c), Nightmare Scenario (7c), maybe Fighting Torque (8a) and Fuel My Fire (8a+), and some harder west coast 7s (Tennessee (7c), Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) etc)
- get the regular weight logging back on track and manage the weight - not a peak period so aim is to keep things steady and aim to be hitting peak weight by the end of the period
- lots of trad leading to solid performances at Burren (July) and Wendenstock (August)
- solid indoor base training
- Dragon Tour & Cobbled Classic end of May and start of June
MTG - 2016
- get on Infinite Gravity (8a+). Also try Fuel My Fire (8a+), The Cider Soak (8a), and some harder west coast 7s (Tennessee (7c), Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) etc)
- maybe some onsighting if I can get a trip together
- get trad mojo back, get more E4s done, try to break into E5
- another adventure trip, back to wendenstock perhaps
- build on dws - swanage and Devon classics, push the boat out at lulworth.
- buy a house, do the Dragon Tour, other non climbing goals.
BHAG
- its been in the back of my mind for a while, and its a monstrous step from where I am now, but Tom Et Je Ris (8b+). Its probably even further away than 8a was when I started thinking about 8a, but you gotta try, right?
- single pitch E6, big adventure E5s and all the adventures that would bring (alps etc)
> AJM: get any more 'Murican ticks?
Cheers Alex. Yeah, I got some good problems done in the end, and tried a lot more that I didn't finish. All in all an excellent trip with a good blend of climbing and touristing (Vegas, Death Valley and Eastern Sierra microbreweries, plus some mountain biking).
Learned some tactical stuff too - I think despite it being relatively short days (compared with a roped trip) the days were a lot more intense than I had expected (especially since I was trying harder problems rather than opting for mileage) which in combination with the skin issues on the sharp rock meant that scheduling a double rest day in the middle of a fortnight trip (as we did in SA last year) is probably a pretty good idea. I basically ended up doing the same amount of days as that would have entailed anyway because I was definitely feeling the pace a bit towards the end of the trip, a bit of burn out going on.
I also need to try and figure out what my main weakness with bouldering is. I did 2 V6s (good, but by the standards of the area relatively unknown) pretty quickly, but at the same time failed consistently despite good quality efforts on several more (mainly the *** classics I'd really hoped to be doing), and on High Plains Drifter (THE classic bishop V7) I got basically nowhere. I've always been a very inconsistent boulderer, but my last set of feedback from Tom suggested I should be able to do V7/8 based on my finger strength and I can see from FC that people with similar sorts of finger strength readings to me (primarily Si and Joyce) are getting a lot more out of them. I'm going to try to do some benchmarking this week of where I'm at and see if there's anything I can figure out. Thoughts so far include:
- I struggled several times (HPD and also the far easier Ironman) with heels, particularly where the heel is on a smallish hold with the wall overhanging above it making it a bit more difficult to use. I also pulled something in my leg heel hooking too hard on a problem (Shrimp traverse) and also felt a tweak from pulling in very hard with a toe on Green Wall Centre. I've done this a number of times before in the past too. This leads me to wonder if my ability to pull with my feet is weak due to weak glutes/etc pushing more reliance onto my arms and leading to tweaks when that isn't possible.
- I'm rubbish at outdoor dynos. I don't know if this is an outdoor thing or whether its merely a symptom of not being terribly powerful (never been that strong on campus board etc although I don't know what "benchmark" level V6, V7 or V8 are at)
- Fiddly holds you have to hit static (GWC) highlighted an ability to hold awkward shoulder lockoffs, although this may be down to the next point rather than a shoulder weakness, hard to say. Shoulders have never been my strong suit though.
- Potentially equivalent performance on one grip type vs others masks a weakness compared to others at well-rounded-ness (GWC press is off a slopey crimp, 7 Spanish Angels has a sloper and slopey pinch you jump off, etc).
Plenty of things to think about.
Post bishop also means new goals which I've listed below. Not going to do a blow by blow of the Bishop/Vegas climbing we did although if anyone has any questions I'm happy to try to answer. Brilliant place, hard on the skin, Buttermilks are world class and so picturesque, Happys/Sads I got on with less well (good bouldering that happens to be near the buttermilks . Tons of other areas we didnt get anywhere near - so much stuff to do next time. We did half a day bouldering at Red Rocks too which I'd go back to if I was in Vegas again but wouldn't cross the atlantic for in its own right.
Old STG - Easter
- V6/7 (7A/+) in Albarracin (2x 7A), Bishop (2x V6 but many failures) and at home (1x 7A). Try a local V8 - nothing harder than V6/7A done.
- short trip 8a send (Mediterraneo (8a)? No dice although progress)
- local things to look at - Hall of Mirrors (7c), Nightmare Scenario (7c), maybe Fighting Torque (8a) - barely tied on
- get the regular weight logging back on track and manage the weight back down - managed this pretty well
STG - by 14th August
- continue bouldering - have some ideas for evening projects to work on
- at least one more weekend in this period on The Cider Soak (8a) - do all the moves and improve links. Not sure when to devote solid time to this one yet.
- local things to look at - Hall of Mirrors (7c), Nightmare Scenario (7c), maybe Fighting Torque (8a) and Fuel My Fire (8a+), and some harder west coast 7s (Tennessee (7c), Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) etc)
- get the regular weight logging back on track and manage the weight - not a peak period so aim is to keep things steady and aim to be hitting peak weight by the end of the period
- lots of trad leading to solid performances at Burren (July) and Wendenstock (August)
- solid indoor base training
- Dragon Tour & Cobbled Classic end of May and start of June
MTG - 2016
- get on Infinite Gravity (8a+). Also try Fuel My Fire (8a+), The Cider Soak (8a), and some harder west coast 7s (Tennessee (7c), Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) etc)
- maybe some onsighting if I can get a trip together
- get trad mojo back, get more E4s done, try to break into E5
- another adventure trip, back to wendenstock perhaps
- build on dws - swanage and Devon classics, push the boat out at lulworth.
- buy a house, do the Dragon Tour, other non climbing goals.
BHAG
- its been in the back of my mind for a while, and its a monstrous step from where I am now, but Tom Et Je Ris (8b+). Its probably even further away than 8a was when I started thinking about 8a, but you gotta try, right?
- single pitch E6, big adventure E5s and all the adventures that would bring (alps etc)
1
In reply to alexm198:
thanks Alex. The nerves have been getting worse over time, but this week was good and not nervy at all. Ha d no less than 3 trips to Redpoint cos my husband found a 7a he had a realistic chance of doing so got a bit obsessed by it- the first time I've ever really seen him get into a route like that, so I went with it and goes loads of stuff done too.
M - Redpoint. 14 routes in pairs. 6a+ 6b / 6c 6c / 7a 7a / 7a 6b+ / 7a 7a / 7a+ 7a / 7a+ 6b+. This was on their comp walls so most routes v overhanging. Included onsightih & then immediately lapping a 7a which I was rather chuffed with!
T - cycle commute. UCR on way home. 6a/6b/6c/7a circuits to warm up, then woody 7b 15 moves, 2 min rest etc. Ended up doing x6 then 5 mins then x6 but with irregular rests as some young kids were mucking about on the circuit board. Finished with 8min on 8 min off x3 on the steady 6a circuit - so boring!
W - cycle commute
T - cycle commute. Tom R core, then lots of press-ups, not so many pull-ups and a lots of arm & shoulder exercises with weights.
F - cycle commute. Redpoint. 10 routes inc 7ax1, 7a+x4, 7bx1. Got stuck on the 7b - stopper move I could not get past with nothing else to yard up to allow working which was a tad frustrating. Got one 7a+, other one was v fingery and late in session - got too tired to tick the top few moves.
S - fingerboard: 6/4/6/2 on larger holds to warm up (6 sets), 7/3/6/2 on smaller holds & slopers (6 sets) then 8 sets of 10/3/4/2 on small holds, various 4 & 3 finger grips. Finally a slightly truncated Tom R core session racing the potatoes whilst cooking the evening meal.
S - Redpoint again. Less routes, 8 in singles, got the fingery 7a+, had a couple of good tries on a v crimpy & steep 7b+ which is superb but has a really scary 3rd clip. Then did a dozen routes 5-6b+ back-to-back on the autobelay
So really excellent volume and good sessions this week. Next week will have less volume as I have a big tax year end project going live at work plus ferrying D2 to/fro from a course. Foresee having to rely on fingerboard rather than going to walls.
thanks Alex. The nerves have been getting worse over time, but this week was good and not nervy at all. Ha d no less than 3 trips to Redpoint cos my husband found a 7a he had a realistic chance of doing so got a bit obsessed by it- the first time I've ever really seen him get into a route like that, so I went with it and goes loads of stuff done too.
M - Redpoint. 14 routes in pairs. 6a+ 6b / 6c 6c / 7a 7a / 7a 6b+ / 7a 7a / 7a+ 7a / 7a+ 6b+. This was on their comp walls so most routes v overhanging. Included onsightih & then immediately lapping a 7a which I was rather chuffed with!
T - cycle commute. UCR on way home. 6a/6b/6c/7a circuits to warm up, then woody 7b 15 moves, 2 min rest etc. Ended up doing x6 then 5 mins then x6 but with irregular rests as some young kids were mucking about on the circuit board. Finished with 8min on 8 min off x3 on the steady 6a circuit - so boring!
W - cycle commute
T - cycle commute. Tom R core, then lots of press-ups, not so many pull-ups and a lots of arm & shoulder exercises with weights.
F - cycle commute. Redpoint. 10 routes inc 7ax1, 7a+x4, 7bx1. Got stuck on the 7b - stopper move I could not get past with nothing else to yard up to allow working which was a tad frustrating. Got one 7a+, other one was v fingery and late in session - got too tired to tick the top few moves.
S - fingerboard: 6/4/6/2 on larger holds to warm up (6 sets), 7/3/6/2 on smaller holds & slopers (6 sets) then 8 sets of 10/3/4/2 on small holds, various 4 & 3 finger grips. Finally a slightly truncated Tom R core session racing the potatoes whilst cooking the evening meal.
S - Redpoint again. Less routes, 8 in singles, got the fingery 7a+, had a couple of good tries on a v crimpy & steep 7b+ which is superb but has a really scary 3rd clip. Then did a dozen routes 5-6b+ back-to-back on the autobelay
So really excellent volume and good sessions this week. Next week will have less volume as I have a big tax year end project going live at work plus ferrying D2 to/fro from a course. Foresee having to rely on fingerboard rather than going to walls.
1
In reply to alexm198:
Enjoyed the video Alex - definitely a little more MOVE for me this week...
Rehab week 5 Improvements continue, been feeling more confident with the shoulder so tried first fingerboard session in a month, and started trying harder on lead climbing on Sunday which felt good. Also had last session with physio, my last week at work (so cover ended), seemed positive and left with rehab routine to continue ad-infinitum as preventative.
T-2 weeks(!!!) before our long trip starts where the real climbing begins, will reset my goals after first week on trip after seeing how I feel.
For remaining fortnight, I'll keep simple, weekly plan of 2xRehab routine + 2xFingerboard + 2xLeading to rebuild some strength and keep movement flowing.
M: leading at the Castle: 10 routes. new 7a (vertical and very technical - onsight dogged). 2x6c (clean onsight), 7x6a to 6b+. Nice to get on a 7a again after a month of little climbing.
T: rehab routine - same as previous weeks inc core
W: rest
Thu: fingerboard repeaters - noticed the loss of gains with month off, additional weight on pulley needed but on the positive side I could complete 2 sets, covering 7 grips, with 6 repeaters 7sec on 3 sec rest. Very careful on maintaining good form with shoulder engaged and shoulder blades pinching. Seemed ok morning after, so plan to do 2 sessions per week moving forward.
F: fun bouldering at the castle. Kept it light, bunch of V1, V2, V3. Did some steeper stuff today and shoulder seemed ok.
S: rehab routine
Su: lead climbing at Castle - 10 routes, feeling like I can try bit harder now. 3x7a (two slight overhangs, a rounded/tufa style, and a crimp fest, then one vertical/technical - all new, almost onsight's but not quite), 7a+ (repeat RP, off once), 2x6c, 6b+, 3x6a-6b. Enjoyed being able to try harder today!
STG:
- rehab shoulder impingement injury - ongoing
- stick to 16 week periodized training plan - failed at 8 weeks shoulder injury
- consolidate indoor 7a and 7a+ indoor RP's - positive
- get Girlfriend recovered from her Achilles tendon injury asap (Op in Nov'15)! She is climbing twice per week, confidence rebuilding on injured foot leading 6b. Just needs time and mileage and confidence building now.
MTG:
- lots of outdoor 7a & 7a+ RP, and get on and try 7b in 2016 (france, italy and spain)
- plenty of long adventurous multi-pitch and cracks (orco, mello, annot, chamonix, grimsel, verdon, dolomites)
- leave job, leave country, climb lots starting t-2 weeks!! - First part done
BHAG's
- La Fete des Nerfs, 300m, 7a+
- Mescalito, Paroi Rouge, 250m, 7c
- The Nose, 900m, 5.9 / C2
- Freerider, 900m, 7c (following someone better than me!)
Enjoyed the video Alex - definitely a little more MOVE for me this week...
Rehab week 5 Improvements continue, been feeling more confident with the shoulder so tried first fingerboard session in a month, and started trying harder on lead climbing on Sunday which felt good. Also had last session with physio, my last week at work (so cover ended), seemed positive and left with rehab routine to continue ad-infinitum as preventative.
T-2 weeks(!!!) before our long trip starts where the real climbing begins, will reset my goals after first week on trip after seeing how I feel.
For remaining fortnight, I'll keep simple, weekly plan of 2xRehab routine + 2xFingerboard + 2xLeading to rebuild some strength and keep movement flowing.
M: leading at the Castle: 10 routes. new 7a (vertical and very technical - onsight dogged). 2x6c (clean onsight), 7x6a to 6b+. Nice to get on a 7a again after a month of little climbing.
T: rehab routine - same as previous weeks inc core
W: rest
Thu: fingerboard repeaters - noticed the loss of gains with month off, additional weight on pulley needed but on the positive side I could complete 2 sets, covering 7 grips, with 6 repeaters 7sec on 3 sec rest. Very careful on maintaining good form with shoulder engaged and shoulder blades pinching. Seemed ok morning after, so plan to do 2 sessions per week moving forward.
F: fun bouldering at the castle. Kept it light, bunch of V1, V2, V3. Did some steeper stuff today and shoulder seemed ok.
S: rehab routine
Su: lead climbing at Castle - 10 routes, feeling like I can try bit harder now. 3x7a (two slight overhangs, a rounded/tufa style, and a crimp fest, then one vertical/technical - all new, almost onsight's but not quite), 7a+ (repeat RP, off once), 2x6c, 6b+, 3x6a-6b. Enjoyed being able to try harder today!
STG:
- rehab shoulder impingement injury - ongoing
- stick to 16 week periodized training plan - failed at 8 weeks shoulder injury
- consolidate indoor 7a and 7a+ indoor RP's - positive
- get Girlfriend recovered from her Achilles tendon injury asap (Op in Nov'15)! She is climbing twice per week, confidence rebuilding on injured foot leading 6b. Just needs time and mileage and confidence building now.
MTG:
- lots of outdoor 7a & 7a+ RP, and get on and try 7b in 2016 (france, italy and spain)
- plenty of long adventurous multi-pitch and cracks (orco, mello, annot, chamonix, grimsel, verdon, dolomites)
- leave job, leave country, climb lots starting t-2 weeks!! - First part done
BHAG's
- La Fete des Nerfs, 300m, 7a+
- Mescalito, Paroi Rouge, 250m, 7c
- The Nose, 900m, 5.9 / C2
- Freerider, 900m, 7c (following someone better than me!)
1
In reply to alexm198:
A bit of a slower week, missing my aerobic targets. Strength and Conditioning work going well, though.
Transition week 4/8
Mon - Rest
Tue - Strength and Conditioning
Same as last week. 2 circuits
Wed - Rest
Thu - Core. 3 sets
* Hollow Rocks
* Hindu Pushup
* Leg Raise
* Suspended Crunch
* Suspended Oblique Crunch
* Plank
* Side Plank
Fri - Strength and Conditioning. 2 circuits.
Sat - Routes at Froggatt
Sun - Routes at Rivelin. Trail Run. 15.55km/627m
STG
Last weeks goals -
* Aerobic - 4.5 hours Z1 including 25 mins Z2
2.5 hours including 25 mins Z2. Try and make this up at the beginning of this week.
* Strength and conditioning - keep at 2 circuits but increase resistance
Done! Wide grip pull ups at bodyweight, dips +5 kg.
* Bouldering - scratch the PE training - leave this till later in the season, and focus on just doing problems. I think I will get more benefit from this at this stage
No Bouldering this week.
* Complete 1 6b and 1 6b+ for indoor routes pyramid
No indoor climbing this week
* 6 routes at VS ( weather permitting ).
4 routes. Hawk's Nest Crack (VS 4c), Chequers Buttress (HVS 5a), Left Edge (VS 4c), Jonad Rib (VS 4c).
* Add a core session
Done.
Next week's goals
* Aerobic - 6.5 hours Z1 ( including debt from previous week, and 25 mins Z2 )
* Strength and Conditioning - increase to 3 circuits
* Bouldering - indoor or outdoor circuits depending on weather
* Routes - 4 routes at HVS. Need to stop pottering around at VS or I'll never get those MTGs
* Routes - 1 6b and 1 6b+ if indoor.
MTG
Left shoulder rehab.
Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
LTG
Recovery of left shoulder injury.
Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly
Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)
Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)
Learn to ski.
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Something on El Capitan.
> planetmarshall: sounds busy! same again this week?
A bit of a slower week, missing my aerobic targets. Strength and Conditioning work going well, though.
Transition week 4/8
Mon - Rest
Tue - Strength and Conditioning
Same as last week. 2 circuits
Wed - Rest
Thu - Core. 3 sets
* Hollow Rocks
* Hindu Pushup
* Leg Raise
* Suspended Crunch
* Suspended Oblique Crunch
* Plank
* Side Plank
Fri - Strength and Conditioning. 2 circuits.
Sat - Routes at Froggatt
Sun - Routes at Rivelin. Trail Run. 15.55km/627m
STG
Last weeks goals -
* Aerobic - 4.5 hours Z1 including 25 mins Z2
2.5 hours including 25 mins Z2. Try and make this up at the beginning of this week.
* Strength and conditioning - keep at 2 circuits but increase resistance
Done! Wide grip pull ups at bodyweight, dips +5 kg.
* Bouldering - scratch the PE training - leave this till later in the season, and focus on just doing problems. I think I will get more benefit from this at this stage
No Bouldering this week.
* Complete 1 6b and 1 6b+ for indoor routes pyramid
No indoor climbing this week
* 6 routes at VS ( weather permitting ).
4 routes. Hawk's Nest Crack (VS 4c), Chequers Buttress (HVS 5a), Left Edge (VS 4c), Jonad Rib (VS 4c).
* Add a core session
Done.
Next week's goals
* Aerobic - 6.5 hours Z1 ( including debt from previous week, and 25 mins Z2 )
* Strength and Conditioning - increase to 3 circuits
* Bouldering - indoor or outdoor circuits depending on weather
* Routes - 4 routes at HVS. Need to stop pottering around at VS or I'll never get those MTGs
* Routes - 1 6b and 1 6b+ if indoor.
MTG
Left shoulder rehab.
Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
LTG
Recovery of left shoulder injury.
Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly
Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)
Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)
Learn to ski.
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Something on El Capitan.
1
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks for starting Alex! Yeah, it's just bad luck really and to be honest I wouldn't fault the airline: they booked us all in to the Hilton, with a buffet breakfast included and provided coaches to get us there and back. The delays were caused by strikes in France (not an airline f-up). I'll probably claim some food/snacks from insurance!
M - Rest. L elbow feeling a bit sore
T - Core (short session after work)
W - Physio appointment re: L knee. Very positive really: no major damage, just take it easy for a week or two and it should get better
pm: fingerboard, repeaters. Back 3 felt pretty weak but I find these really awkward.
T - Cheddar, Sunnyside Terrace, after work. Warm and sunny, best day out climbing so far this year! First time on that crag, and I really rate it. Some nasty starts, but lovely textured rock above. Onsighted Sunnyside Up (7a) (great fun, if a little soft)
F - Fingerboard, similar set to Wednesday but easier holds/shorter rests.
S - Pembroke. Coastal walk in the rain. Soggy.
S - Pembroke. Coastal walk with very little rain. Much better.
Does anybody else find the 3-finger pockets (both small and medium size) on the BM1000 are too close together? When I'm doing back 3 my index fingers are squashed up next to each other in the middle. I know I just need to get two boards next to each other, but I don't really have the space!
STG
See a physio about the knee ASAP. Good news from this. Should clear up quickly.
Make some lasting gains on the finger strength. This will be a bit weather dependent, I suspect.
Get out in the evenings! now that we're on BST. Psyched to get back to Cheddar after last week.
MTG
spring: keep the pressure on the E4s. Still have to get on Central Wall (E4 6a), Star Wars (E4 5c), Mother Africa (E4 6a), Pacemaker (E5 6a), ... Pembroke trip pencilled in for 2 weeks time.
Sub-90 half marathon (Bristol half, September). Benchmark 10k (sub-40 in Bristol 10k, May). I've had a bit too much time out of running at a critical time for 10k training, but if all goes well over the next two weeks I reckon I still have a chance of hitting this target.
LTG
varied E5 onsights
Get out to Orkney with The Fox
Snowdonia marathon. I'll be up at midnight next New Year!
BHAG
The Long Hope Route
> Nick Russell: bad luck with the cancelled flight. You should look into pursuing compensation from the airline if it's their fault, I've just got a load of compensation back from a cancelled flight pre-christmas. Should help pay for the next trip...
Thanks for starting Alex! Yeah, it's just bad luck really and to be honest I wouldn't fault the airline: they booked us all in to the Hilton, with a buffet breakfast included and provided coaches to get us there and back. The delays were caused by strikes in France (not an airline f-up). I'll probably claim some food/snacks from insurance!
M - Rest. L elbow feeling a bit sore
T - Core (short session after work)
W - Physio appointment re: L knee. Very positive really: no major damage, just take it easy for a week or two and it should get better
pm: fingerboard, repeaters. Back 3 felt pretty weak but I find these really awkward.
T - Cheddar, Sunnyside Terrace, after work. Warm and sunny, best day out climbing so far this year! First time on that crag, and I really rate it. Some nasty starts, but lovely textured rock above. Onsighted Sunnyside Up (7a) (great fun, if a little soft)
F - Fingerboard, similar set to Wednesday but easier holds/shorter rests.
S - Pembroke. Coastal walk in the rain. Soggy.
S - Pembroke. Coastal walk with very little rain. Much better.
Does anybody else find the 3-finger pockets (both small and medium size) on the BM1000 are too close together? When I'm doing back 3 my index fingers are squashed up next to each other in the middle. I know I just need to get two boards next to each other, but I don't really have the space!
STG
MTG
LTG
BHAG
1
In reply to alexm198:
I just checked last weeks post and it is very ambiguous. My sessions are usually 2-3h. I only had 12h rest between sessions, i.e. my session the previous night was very late and my session in the morning was very early. It's not ideal, but it was all I had time for.
Monday - fingerboard max hangs. I think this session was pretty good with some minimal improvements. I'm not sure that this is due to getting better, but rather more used to the system. The weighted hangs seem quite bad on the skin.
Tuesday - bouldering followed by short circuits
Wed - I have been trying to link the 7c circuit into a good rest, followed by a boulder problem. I do 3 sets with long rests. The good news is the 7c circuit is really wired and I didn't fall off it once during the session. The problem is that I'm so tired at the end, I barely recover on the jugs and make about 3 moves of the boulder problem.
Thursday/Friday nothing
Sat arrive in Font to rain
Sun not a great session. I didn't start until 3pm. It had rained hard overnight and many things were wet. I went up to Rocher Fin and tried Guerre et Paix (f7A). I made progress but it suddenly got really hot. The problem was mostly the top out and no amount of indoor circuits or limestone sport climbing was going to help. I joined the rest of the group at Diplodocus. I spent a while on easier routes with awkward top outs which was probably good training and tried a brilliiant line called Le Monde Perdu (f6C+). I linked it in two halves several times and really should have got it.
Goals for the week. It's wet at the moment but brightening up. Tomorrow looks quite wet. I'm going to continue trying to work a 7A each day. I don't think I'm well prepared for the trip as I hadn't been bouldering outside for ages, but this year is all about peaking for Peak sport.
Tony
> TonyB: "it was only 12h"... tell me that's a typo!? Should I be doing 12h sessions at the wall?! Arrived in Font safely?
I just checked last weeks post and it is very ambiguous. My sessions are usually 2-3h. I only had 12h rest between sessions, i.e. my session the previous night was very late and my session in the morning was very early. It's not ideal, but it was all I had time for.
Monday - fingerboard max hangs. I think this session was pretty good with some minimal improvements. I'm not sure that this is due to getting better, but rather more used to the system. The weighted hangs seem quite bad on the skin.
Tuesday - bouldering followed by short circuits
Wed - I have been trying to link the 7c circuit into a good rest, followed by a boulder problem. I do 3 sets with long rests. The good news is the 7c circuit is really wired and I didn't fall off it once during the session. The problem is that I'm so tired at the end, I barely recover on the jugs and make about 3 moves of the boulder problem.
Thursday/Friday nothing
Sat arrive in Font to rain
Sun not a great session. I didn't start until 3pm. It had rained hard overnight and many things were wet. I went up to Rocher Fin and tried Guerre et Paix (f7A). I made progress but it suddenly got really hot. The problem was mostly the top out and no amount of indoor circuits or limestone sport climbing was going to help. I joined the rest of the group at Diplodocus. I spent a while on easier routes with awkward top outs which was probably good training and tried a brilliiant line called Le Monde Perdu (f6C+). I linked it in two halves several times and really should have got it.
Goals for the week. It's wet at the moment but brightening up. Tomorrow looks quite wet. I'm going to continue trying to work a 7A each day. I don't think I'm well prepared for the trip as I hadn't been bouldering outside for ages, but this year is all about peaking for Peak sport.
Tony
1
In reply to alexm198:
STG = keep up training. Collect new car and sell old one so I can get outside weekend of the 16th/17th
MTG = keep up the training plan
LTG = 7b+ pyramid this year, at least 3x7a+, 2x7b,1x7b+. Done plenty of 7as over the last few years.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Hi all
Quiet week this week, back from France on Monday and didn't really have much psyche for indoors after that. Also felt like some time off after a load of days outside.
Agreed lessons learned from France. The getting stronger bit will hopefully come from sticking with the training. The main thing I think is changing what I'm aiming for on holidays and being happy to OS / do RP in a day routes.
Thurs - WW and did 5 routes. Totally unpsyched but went as gf wanted to climb. Turned out she was there for the same reason. Gave up and went home.
Sun - bought a new car day 1 of training programme, did c1 hour of TRX esq resistance work. 30 mins fingerboarding on BM100, trying for 10 second max hangs with various weights / finger combinations / holds. Need to figure out how to rig a pulley to take weight off for some. Aching in places I didn't know I had places this am from the resistance work so must have done some good.
STG = keep up training. Collect new car and sell old one so I can get outside weekend of the 16th/17th
MTG = keep up the training plan
LTG = 7b+ pyramid this year, at least 3x7a+, 2x7b,1x7b+. Done plenty of 7as over the last few years.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Hi all
Quiet week this week, back from France on Monday and didn't really have much psyche for indoors after that. Also felt like some time off after a load of days outside.
Agreed lessons learned from France. The getting stronger bit will hopefully come from sticking with the training. The main thing I think is changing what I'm aiming for on holidays and being happy to OS / do RP in a day routes.
Thurs - WW and did 5 routes. Totally unpsyched but went as gf wanted to climb. Turned out she was there for the same reason. Gave up and went home.
Sun - bought a new car day 1 of training programme, did c1 hour of TRX esq resistance work. 30 mins fingerboarding on BM100, trying for 10 second max hangs with various weights / finger combinations / holds. Need to figure out how to rig a pulley to take weight off for some. Aching in places I didn't know I had places this am from the resistance work so must have done some good.
1
> Emily: glad you got some positives out of the discussion. Always nice to know other people have the same issues your week doesn't look too 'lazy' to me!
Thanks alex. This week (combined with the tail end of last week) has felt hard on my legs - stepped the running mileage up after getting back from holiday, plus due to the way my schedule worked out I crammed two weeks' worth of runs into about 9 days and did a load of walking too. They're not feeling in danger of getting injured, just a bit worn out. I'm sure it's good for them. Plus, some beautiful sunny outdoor climbing (why wasn't Spain like this?!) in which the panic-factor was reasonably contained.Monday - running, 8 x (90s fast 3 min jog) plus warmup and cooldown for total 10km in 53:18.
Tuesday - nothing except several hours' walking around Bristol and Bath (playing tour guide for my sister).
Wednesday - running, 10km taking it easyish, 56:32.
Thursday - evening climbing at Cheddar, lovely sun!! Tried a 6b+, took me a long long time to get the really hard move off the ground but once I did I led through most of it (couple of rests, clip-sticked the rope into the chains because I was scared of the very top move). Might be induced to have a go at redpointing if I find myself back there.
Friday - running, 45 min as 15 easy warmup, 15 steady build from 5:45 to 4:30 pace, 15 easy cooldown, 8km total.
Saturday - a few hours' very wet walking on Pembrokeshire coast path.
Sunday - more Pembrokeshire coast path, less wet this time. Dragging legs along.
Goals / progress on them:
Short term (Apr)
- keep weight trending downwards. More actionably: pay attention to food with this in mind
- bit of a fail this week, didn't try. Up 0.1kg, probably should be more
- 3 runs/week per my plan for the next few weeks through April
- yep, 3 this week
- plan a summer climbing trip
- yes, booked the eurostar to Marseille in July! Most likely target Ceuse?
- run 5k at 10k race target pace, maybe at Little Stoke park run?
Medium term (Apr, May, Jun)
- follow running plan for Bristol 10k
- 21/36 done, on track
- aim for course (and distance) PB at the Bristol 10k, so sub 47:14. Target pace 4:40ish I guess
- climb something outside in the UK if the weather ever cooperates
- got an evening at Cheddar this week
- have another go on Opt Out?
Minor miracle level "maybe someday" wishes
- redpoint something beginning with 7 indoors?
- redpoint something beginning with 7 outdoors??
- lead a VS??? (don't care whether onsight or after seconding a billion times, but this does include placing the gear myself)
Post edited at 08:19
1
In reply to hms:
Would this be the same Redpoint 7a that seemed not entirely intractable to me as well? Pink one on the steep wall next to the door in the new area?
> 3 trips to Redpoint cos my husband found a 7a he had a realistic chance of doing
Would this be the same Redpoint 7a that seemed not entirely intractable to me as well? Pink one on the steep wall next to the door in the new area?
Post edited at 08:45
In reply to Emily:
no, the grey one 2 lines further right. As long as one has the power to keep going and the nous to use the bridges it is a soft touch. I did the pink on Monday and fell off first go as I couldn't get the clip in from the blob high on the side wall. Second try (and after giving the blob a good brushing) it was easy - just go one move higher!
The 7b+ is the fluro yellow on the line in between - savage little crimpers on a 70degree wall, with a jump to the jug on the lip - spicy.
no, the grey one 2 lines further right. As long as one has the power to keep going and the nous to use the bridges it is a soft touch. I did the pink on Monday and fell off first go as I couldn't get the clip in from the blob high on the side wall. Second try (and after giving the blob a good brushing) it was easy - just go one move higher!
The 7b+ is the fluro yellow on the line in between - savage little crimpers on a 70degree wall, with a jump to the jug on the lip - spicy.
In reply to hms:
Ah, maybe I should see what the grey is like next time! I can't remember that clip being particularly tough on the pink, but I definitely took a rest just around there so was probably finding it unrealistically easy to hang off stuff near the top. The crux for me definitely seemed to be much lower down, coming left back to the line after heading out right (feet on a volume I think?) to a clip off a kind of disappointing hold. Too scary.
Ah, maybe I should see what the grey is like next time! I can't remember that clip being particularly tough on the pink, but I definitely took a rest just around there so was probably finding it unrealistically easy to hang off stuff near the top. The crux for me definitely seemed to be much lower down, coming left back to the line after heading out right (feet on a volume I think?) to a clip off a kind of disappointing hold. Too scary.
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks for doing the stats Alex - ski trip was to Tignes, France though we had the lift-pass to the whole of Espace Killy, so toured widely to Val d'Isere and off-piste too.
April goals:
Edit video of skiing
Plan some more holiday(s)
Continued shoulder rehab and core fitness - start yoga class with the lady
Rehab strange finger tweak - hurts closing car doors, but not crimping
2x week an-cap work-outs (inc. crimping an-cap specific to Waterval Boven)
LW reverse - TICK (and back again, or trohs efil evac?)
RP the easier Malham potential project
Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey
Week 13:
M - Malham - very cold fingers for both plays on the project - most of the moves sorted through the crux - maybe a morpho f8a? Still needs an extra bolt and a microwave sized block trundling, but way too busy at the crag for that kind of shenanigans. 1x play on Bat Route. Did most of the moves, but very few linking sections from kneebar to where the angle eases back. Headwall crux could be a heart breaker? Felt inspired by watching Rob Sutton do it though
T - Back to work An evening of bike fettling, life admin & stretching
W - Cave after work. Left Wall Reverse RP 1st go after reworking finish; f7c/+ish - a little harder than the opriginal? Video here: vimeo.com/161222481 Then re-did Broken Heart as far as the good holds - promptly wimped out of doing the finish in the dark with wiggy over-head heel-toe and no spotter - keen to go back and do it with the Familiar finish. Quick play on Trigger Cut, but battered by then. 40 kneebar sit ups to totally blast my core.
T - Rings. I's, flys & glutes. Ball stability. 15x 1on/1off aero-cap FOC alternating single and double pace to keep me panting. Worked hard - 2x blood blister and split to show for it.
F - Rest/DOMS/skin repair.
S - Malham again. Bat route bulge and headwall. 3 goes on Bat route - did the crux bulge in one for first time (7B/+?) but left shoulder not the happiest with current beta to get the jug with that hand after tiring it out on the earlier moves - think I need to re-try the "classic" method? Back up on the headwall on last go; proper ballache with belayer out of sight on catwalk. Finally got a method to work using a long reach to high incut sidepull instead of going directly into the 2nd undercut. Crimp moves above that felt very basic and the living end, but I might just have knackered by that point? Skin wrecked.
S - Stiff back = super lazy middle class day with the lady; farmers market and ski boot fitting followed by cinema.
Back feels better again this morning, though shoulder is a bit grumpy. Note to self - do more rehab!
Thanks for doing the stats Alex - ski trip was to Tignes, France though we had the lift-pass to the whole of Espace Killy, so toured widely to Val d'Isere and off-piste too.
April goals:
Edit video of skiing
Plan some more holiday(s)
Continued shoulder rehab and core fitness - start yoga class with the lady
Rehab strange finger tweak - hurts closing car doors, but not crimping
2x week an-cap work-outs (inc. crimping an-cap specific to Waterval Boven)
LW reverse - TICK (and back again, or trohs efil evac?)
RP the easier Malham potential project
Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey
Week 13:
M - Malham - very cold fingers for both plays on the project - most of the moves sorted through the crux - maybe a morpho f8a? Still needs an extra bolt and a microwave sized block trundling, but way too busy at the crag for that kind of shenanigans. 1x play on Bat Route. Did most of the moves, but very few linking sections from kneebar to where the angle eases back. Headwall crux could be a heart breaker? Felt inspired by watching Rob Sutton do it though
T - Back to work An evening of bike fettling, life admin & stretching
W - Cave after work. Left Wall Reverse RP 1st go after reworking finish; f7c/+ish - a little harder than the opriginal? Video here: vimeo.com/161222481 Then re-did Broken Heart as far as the good holds - promptly wimped out of doing the finish in the dark with wiggy over-head heel-toe and no spotter - keen to go back and do it with the Familiar finish. Quick play on Trigger Cut, but battered by then. 40 kneebar sit ups to totally blast my core.
T - Rings. I's, flys & glutes. Ball stability. 15x 1on/1off aero-cap FOC alternating single and double pace to keep me panting. Worked hard - 2x blood blister and split to show for it.
F - Rest/DOMS/skin repair.
S - Malham again. Bat route bulge and headwall. 3 goes on Bat route - did the crux bulge in one for first time (7B/+?) but left shoulder not the happiest with current beta to get the jug with that hand after tiring it out on the earlier moves - think I need to re-try the "classic" method? Back up on the headwall on last go; proper ballache with belayer out of sight on catwalk. Finally got a method to work using a long reach to high incut sidepull instead of going directly into the 2nd undercut. Crimp moves above that felt very basic and the living end, but I might just have knackered by that point? Skin wrecked.
S - Stiff back = super lazy middle class day with the lady; farmers market and ski boot fitting followed by cinema.
Back feels better again this morning, though shoulder is a bit grumpy. Note to self - do more rehab!
Post edited at 09:13
1
Hi Fitters! Have barely made it out climbing so far this year, but hoping to push through some grades before the end of 2016. Currently onsighting around VS/F6a, and feels like I plateaued about 2 years ago!
Didn't do anything relevant last week, but here are my goals:
STGs (next 4 weeks):
* run, boulder, yoga every weekday
* get out on the rock every weekend
* don't get injured, drink alcohol or smoke anything
MTGs (end of June):
* finish Clockwork Orange, a 50-move problem at the local wall. I guess it's 6b, cos I can do all the moves
* tick 50% of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390
* learn how to fall off sport climbs
LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* climb Punsola-Reniu (6c+) (aid allowed!)
Didn't do anything relevant last week, but here are my goals:
STGs (next 4 weeks):
* run, boulder, yoga every weekday
* get out on the rock every weekend
* don't get injured, drink alcohol or smoke anything
MTGs (end of June):
* finish Clockwork Orange, a 50-move problem at the local wall. I guess it's 6b, cos I can do all the moves
* tick 50% of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390
* learn how to fall off sport climbs
LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* climb Punsola-Reniu (6c+) (aid allowed!)
1
In reply to alexm198:
Cheers Alex! Weather has been pretty decent, it has yet to stop us getting to a crag every day.
M: El Falco in Arboli, 50 mins from Margalef, me and my wife went to this 40m sheet of perfect rock 5 years ago and were keen to return. Due to my rubbish memory I only did repeats of previously done routes! Tried the 7a extension Borinot Extension (7a) that I onsighted 5 years ago, took me 3 rests and I found it really hard! More proof of how out of shape I am? Retro flashed La millor de... (6c) Which felt much more on the grade.
T: Raco De Les Espadelles; incredible crag at the top of the valley, top tip, park above it, don't try and walk up to it... Bit of a rest day for me, just scoping the place out, belayed a friend on his 7c+ project, looks hard but didn't inspire me to try it. Put ropes on a 6a+ and a 6b for Mrs Dandan, the starts on the easy routes are super hard, I had to pull through the 6b start which requires you to pull over a bulge on a mono! Bonkers.
W: L'Obac del Roger; back to open an account on Bésame Mucho (7b+) a 30m, 10 degree pocket pulling stamina fest. Totally margalef style, but when in Rome... Made some good links, did all moves no problem, it was just nice to actually try hard again without incurring any kind of injury! Forearms were toasted afterwards but elbows survived admirably. I could get to like this pocket pulling thing. Also flashed La Vía del Blas (6c)
T: Rest day, belayed on easy routes at Bloc Del Porc where some of our nervous lead climbers built their confidence. Had a recce of Raco De la finestre too.
F: Espadelles; spotted a couple of tasty looking 7a's on our way out last time which Mrs Dandan fancied trying. We risked the slightly rainy weather and were rewarded with a dry crag to ourselves! After dogging another super hard 6b for warm up (!) I got back into the groove and onsighted Qué Pasa Neng? (7a), Franja de Ponent (7a) and Beta de Boira (7a)! Feeling a bit more like my old self
S: Grau De massets at Siurana; I've been here before so got to fill in some gaps in my tick list, feeling bouyed by my performance yesterday I onsighted Súper final (7a) and Sugopy (7a) and just missed out on a third that is not yet in the logbooks. I think sugopy might have been a retro flash as it felt familiar but I never used to record dogged routes.
Also repeated Solo tengo ganas de llorar (6c)
S: L'Obac del Roger; friend ticked off Bésame Mucho (7b+) with style but I wasn't feeling strong so had one bolt to bolt go but didn't risk a redpoint. Did redpoint La Mia (7a) second go though, its a completely crux-free stamina fest, if I was a local it would be great for laps.
While my elbows don't feel injured in any specific way, they now just feel really tired so I'm resting today (Monday) and may be forced to rest tomorrow due to rain so hopefully I can pull hard on Wednesday!
6/10 '7' graded ticks, plus I've dogged 3 others so not bad goal-wise, see what I can manage on wednesday
Cheers Alex! Weather has been pretty decent, it has yet to stop us getting to a crag every day.
M: El Falco in Arboli, 50 mins from Margalef, me and my wife went to this 40m sheet of perfect rock 5 years ago and were keen to return. Due to my rubbish memory I only did repeats of previously done routes! Tried the 7a extension Borinot Extension (7a) that I onsighted 5 years ago, took me 3 rests and I found it really hard! More proof of how out of shape I am? Retro flashed La millor de... (6c) Which felt much more on the grade.
T: Raco De Les Espadelles; incredible crag at the top of the valley, top tip, park above it, don't try and walk up to it... Bit of a rest day for me, just scoping the place out, belayed a friend on his 7c+ project, looks hard but didn't inspire me to try it. Put ropes on a 6a+ and a 6b for Mrs Dandan, the starts on the easy routes are super hard, I had to pull through the 6b start which requires you to pull over a bulge on a mono! Bonkers.
W: L'Obac del Roger; back to open an account on Bésame Mucho (7b+) a 30m, 10 degree pocket pulling stamina fest. Totally margalef style, but when in Rome... Made some good links, did all moves no problem, it was just nice to actually try hard again without incurring any kind of injury! Forearms were toasted afterwards but elbows survived admirably. I could get to like this pocket pulling thing. Also flashed La Vía del Blas (6c)
T: Rest day, belayed on easy routes at Bloc Del Porc where some of our nervous lead climbers built their confidence. Had a recce of Raco De la finestre too.
F: Espadelles; spotted a couple of tasty looking 7a's on our way out last time which Mrs Dandan fancied trying. We risked the slightly rainy weather and were rewarded with a dry crag to ourselves! After dogging another super hard 6b for warm up (!) I got back into the groove and onsighted Qué Pasa Neng? (7a), Franja de Ponent (7a) and Beta de Boira (7a)! Feeling a bit more like my old self
S: Grau De massets at Siurana; I've been here before so got to fill in some gaps in my tick list, feeling bouyed by my performance yesterday I onsighted Súper final (7a) and Sugopy (7a) and just missed out on a third that is not yet in the logbooks. I think sugopy might have been a retro flash as it felt familiar but I never used to record dogged routes.
Also repeated Solo tengo ganas de llorar (6c)
S: L'Obac del Roger; friend ticked off Bésame Mucho (7b+) with style but I wasn't feeling strong so had one bolt to bolt go but didn't risk a redpoint. Did redpoint La Mia (7a) second go though, its a completely crux-free stamina fest, if I was a local it would be great for laps.
While my elbows don't feel injured in any specific way, they now just feel really tired so I'm resting today (Monday) and may be forced to rest tomorrow due to rain so hopefully I can pull hard on Wednesday!
6/10 '7' graded ticks, plus I've dogged 3 others so not bad goal-wise, see what I can manage on wednesday
2
In reply to Ian Bell:
Sent you an email with an idea for your rig, also how to add pinch grips which are lacking on the BM
> Need to figure out how to rig a pulley to take weight off for some.
Sent you an email with an idea for your rig, also how to add pinch grips which are lacking on the BM
In reply to Nick Russell:
an option is to use one three finger pocket (whatever depth you are focused on) and use a similar depth four finger pocket spaced further away for your other hand (but only put three fingers in it) e.g. works well on the bottom rung.
> Does anybody else find the 3-finger pockets (both small and medium size) on the BM1000 are too close together? When I'm doing back 3 my index fingers are squashed up next to each other in the middle. I know I just need to get two boards next to each other, but I don't really have the space!
an option is to use one three finger pocket (whatever depth you are focused on) and use a similar depth four finger pocket spaced further away for your other hand (but only put three fingers in it) e.g. works well on the bottom rung.
Post edited at 10:49
In reply to alexm198:
Cheers Alex.
yes I did get the last couple of aero pow sessions in. Did another 6c+ 4x4 and the day after repeated it. Was looking at dropping rest times but I was still feeling it from the day before.
Specific goals for Chulilla are to onsight as hard as possible. I expect 7a's, am going for 7a+ and want to try 7b.
You may wonder why i'm sat typing this at 1pm on a climbing day? It's raining. Was forecast tomorrow eve but has now changed to rain today, tomorrow and Wednesday. Great! What looked like a shower has turned into proper rain. Arse! Nothing I can do but wait. Can climb until 8pm ish here atm so there's still a chance of nipping out later, then tomorrow morning and Wednesday morning. Just have to make the best of it.
Spent yesterday at an easy crag just getting back onto rock. Highlight was doing a 4+ slab no handed. Hopefully that won't be the highlight for the week.
Going to Barcelona for the weekend to meet a mate who lives there. He's entered me into a bouldering comp! Should be fun.
Cheers Alex.
yes I did get the last couple of aero pow sessions in. Did another 6c+ 4x4 and the day after repeated it. Was looking at dropping rest times but I was still feeling it from the day before.
Specific goals for Chulilla are to onsight as hard as possible. I expect 7a's, am going for 7a+ and want to try 7b.
You may wonder why i'm sat typing this at 1pm on a climbing day? It's raining. Was forecast tomorrow eve but has now changed to rain today, tomorrow and Wednesday. Great! What looked like a shower has turned into proper rain. Arse! Nothing I can do but wait. Can climb until 8pm ish here atm so there's still a chance of nipping out later, then tomorrow morning and Wednesday morning. Just have to make the best of it.
Spent yesterday at an easy crag just getting back onto rock. Highlight was doing a 4+ slab no handed. Hopefully that won't be the highlight for the week.
Going to Barcelona for the weekend to meet a mate who lives there. He's entered me into a bouldering comp! Should be fun.
2
In reply to alexm198: thanks for the stats Alex! I'm in my second year of medicine, and unfortunately fell a bit behind during term so I'm having to try and make it up now! Back at Newcastle next week as well. I'd absolutely recommend Fiesta, and its not too bad for 7a either.
I've had to take this week off climbing, partly to rest and partly to catch up with lots of other things.
Cheers, Jake
I've had to take this week off climbing, partly to rest and partly to catch up with lots of other things.
Cheers, Jake
In reply to alexm198: Also, I think I posted too late last week for people to see my question so I'll just copy it again here:
If I'm going to Flatanger in June, so two and a half months away, whats my best plan vis-a-vis fitness?
Do I try and maintain what little I've gained in the last couple of weeks by doing the occasional fitness session each week, or just sack it off, focus on getting as strong as possible and then bringing in some fitness stuff a bit nearer the time?
Sorry for not talking in aero/an/cap/pow terms i don't really understand them, but any advice is much appreciated!
If I'm going to Flatanger in June, so two and a half months away, whats my best plan vis-a-vis fitness?
Do I try and maintain what little I've gained in the last couple of weeks by doing the occasional fitness session each week, or just sack it off, focus on getting as strong as possible and then bringing in some fitness stuff a bit nearer the time?
Sorry for not talking in aero/an/cap/pow terms i don't really understand them, but any advice is much appreciated!
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks for the thread Alex!
"Do you find this has helped recovery? I generally prefer to hunker down for a few days, not do anything, sleep a lot and eat well and then get back to training afterwards. Not sure what others' experiences are?"
I really learned a lesson from it! For the first 4 days I was determined to just tough it out. Day 1 i wasn't spluttering but my chest hurt like hell - I dragged myself through work, no way could I run though. Fri I had climbing and ended up tying on then untying because I thought I was going to be sick, cough was well and truly set in. I climbed badly both Sat and Sun despite being out of breath and coughing up half a lung! By Mon/Tues I kind of grasped that I was actually ill but still did nothing about it accept cancel my weds climb and whinge. By weds my best pal (practice nurse!) made an unannounced visit armed with her stethoscope and cornered me - considerable chest infection so was packed off to GP with a flea in my ear! TBH I was beginning to feel a bit better by then but it scared me a bit that I had been taking stupid risks on the basis that I'm indestructible and just don't stop (clearly rubbish!).
My rule of thumb for the future is that I'd still truck on with a cold (symptoms above the neck!), but painful chest, inability to breathe and coughing up stuff from a zombie horror movie will in the future be taken as a signal to hunker down - like actually stop. I got away with it having learned something which makes me a jammy little bugger but slightly less lary than I was a month ago! I ran today for the first time in 20 days, thank god that was actually physically impossible in the first week!
Mon - Turned out to belay but did a couple of climbs, nowt much.
Tues - Nowt
Weds - lead night, shared my belayer so more rest than usual, didn't feel like I climbed well.
Thurs - Nowt
Fri - Went to climb at notts and staff helpfully questioned why I was there as WBL final that night at depot!! Meep, I'd been quietly lapping the auto belay and only stopped because one of the Learning disability group in asked me for some water! I thought the final was on mon and had no child care. My awesome belayer turned out last min so I did the final and came 2nd in old farts category. I was really pleased with my climbing though, climbed 2 or 3 routes that were well outside what I see myself as able to do. I was well and truly walloped for first place though - a proper bloody climber just turned 40 - Meh!
Sat - Climbed badly for about an hour
Sun - Went to Depot and just never got it together, felt down after fri. I would love to learn how to actually keep my mojo instead of it being so bloody fickle.
Thanks for the thread Alex!
"Do you find this has helped recovery? I generally prefer to hunker down for a few days, not do anything, sleep a lot and eat well and then get back to training afterwards. Not sure what others' experiences are?"
I really learned a lesson from it! For the first 4 days I was determined to just tough it out. Day 1 i wasn't spluttering but my chest hurt like hell - I dragged myself through work, no way could I run though. Fri I had climbing and ended up tying on then untying because I thought I was going to be sick, cough was well and truly set in. I climbed badly both Sat and Sun despite being out of breath and coughing up half a lung! By Mon/Tues I kind of grasped that I was actually ill but still did nothing about it accept cancel my weds climb and whinge. By weds my best pal (practice nurse!) made an unannounced visit armed with her stethoscope and cornered me - considerable chest infection so was packed off to GP with a flea in my ear! TBH I was beginning to feel a bit better by then but it scared me a bit that I had been taking stupid risks on the basis that I'm indestructible and just don't stop (clearly rubbish!).
My rule of thumb for the future is that I'd still truck on with a cold (symptoms above the neck!), but painful chest, inability to breathe and coughing up stuff from a zombie horror movie will in the future be taken as a signal to hunker down - like actually stop. I got away with it having learned something which makes me a jammy little bugger but slightly less lary than I was a month ago! I ran today for the first time in 20 days, thank god that was actually physically impossible in the first week!
Mon - Turned out to belay but did a couple of climbs, nowt much.
Tues - Nowt
Weds - lead night, shared my belayer so more rest than usual, didn't feel like I climbed well.
Thurs - Nowt
Fri - Went to climb at notts and staff helpfully questioned why I was there as WBL final that night at depot!! Meep, I'd been quietly lapping the auto belay and only stopped because one of the Learning disability group in asked me for some water! I thought the final was on mon and had no child care. My awesome belayer turned out last min so I did the final and came 2nd in old farts category. I was really pleased with my climbing though, climbed 2 or 3 routes that were well outside what I see myself as able to do. I was well and truly walloped for first place though - a proper bloody climber just turned 40 - Meh!
Sat - Climbed badly for about an hour
Sun - Went to Depot and just never got it together, felt down after fri. I would love to learn how to actually keep my mojo instead of it being so bloody fickle.
1
In reply to alexm198:
Bit of an up and down week ...
Peru is going to be the biggest thing I've done since Nepal in 2011, to say I'm looking forward to it is a huge understatement!
m - 17.5km walking - went up to Simon's Seat from Bolton Abbey
t - Woodentop's Bunny run #1, 4.3km, 130m ascent, 5:53/km pace. Great fun, £2.50 entry and you get a free creme egg - roll on next week!
t - rest
w - Ran from Bingley to Ilkley over the moor, 11km, 360m ascent, 7min/km pace
t - pub
f - off work with the 'runs'
s - hurt my back standing up!
s - Walk 6km from Bingley to Baildon to give the drugs time to work on my back
- Baildon Boundary Way, 21.5km, 375m ascent, 6:08/km. 2:12:12 on a new course so strictly not a new PB, but 5 mins faster since I last did the BBW.
The Three Peaks Fell Race is looming large, planning on doing a partial recce at the weekend.
> Hello FitClubbers! Hope you all had a good week.
Bit of an up and down week ...
> hokkyokusei: Peru sounds like it'll be fantastic. How was the Baildon Boundary Way?
Peru is going to be the biggest thing I've done since Nepal in 2011, to say I'm looking forward to it is a huge understatement!
m - 17.5km walking - went up to Simon's Seat from Bolton Abbey
t - Woodentop's Bunny run #1, 4.3km, 130m ascent, 5:53/km pace. Great fun, £2.50 entry and you get a free creme egg - roll on next week!
t - rest
w - Ran from Bingley to Ilkley over the moor, 11km, 360m ascent, 7min/km pace
t - pub
f - off work with the 'runs'
s - hurt my back standing up!
s - Walk 6km from Bingley to Baildon to give the drugs time to work on my back
- Baildon Boundary Way, 21.5km, 375m ascent, 6:08/km. 2:12:12 on a new course so strictly not a new PB, but 5 mins faster since I last did the BBW.
The Three Peaks Fell Race is looming large, planning on doing a partial recce at the weekend.
Post edited at 11:50
In reply to robbiebrookie:
Or just use the 4 finger pockets for both hsnds and don't engage one of your fingers. This is what I do on a bm2000 as the 3 finger pockets are asymmetric.
> an option is to use one three finger pocket (whatever depth you are focused on) and use a similar depth four finger pocket spaced further away for your other hand (but only put three fingers in it) e.g. works well on the bottom rung.
Or just use the 4 finger pockets for both hsnds and don't engage one of your fingers. This is what I do on a bm2000 as the 3 finger pockets are asymmetric.
In reply to Joughton:
Generally speaking a cycle would go: base fitness (Aero capacity), get strong (anaerobic capacity), get pumped (aero power). That's with the tech speak for you Get strong includes working on the stuff that powers you out i.e. you're not pumped but you just can't pull anymore moves.
Depends how you develop. I tend to pick up pump fitness quite quickly, but lack strength. For my next cycle i'm going to factor more of that in. If your base fitness is not good for the levels of climbing you're looking at you do need it in order to build the others.
Take a look at the alex barrows pdf linked at the top of here. You don't need to understand it all. He gives example exercises for each category at the end, a sample 3 mth program, and how long for MAX benefits to be achieved. That doesn't mean working that category for 4 weeks won't bring benefits. It will. Just that it will peak out after 12 weeks etc.
Decide what you're already OK at and prioritise components needed for your target climbs in Flatanger. I know it's not all horizontal 9a's but I guess it's steep anyway.
Good luck!
Generally speaking a cycle would go: base fitness (Aero capacity), get strong (anaerobic capacity), get pumped (aero power). That's with the tech speak for you Get strong includes working on the stuff that powers you out i.e. you're not pumped but you just can't pull anymore moves.
Depends how you develop. I tend to pick up pump fitness quite quickly, but lack strength. For my next cycle i'm going to factor more of that in. If your base fitness is not good for the levels of climbing you're looking at you do need it in order to build the others.
Take a look at the alex barrows pdf linked at the top of here. You don't need to understand it all. He gives example exercises for each category at the end, a sample 3 mth program, and how long for MAX benefits to be achieved. That doesn't mean working that category for 4 weeks won't bring benefits. It will. Just that it will peak out after 12 weeks etc.
Decide what you're already OK at and prioritise components needed for your target climbs in Flatanger. I know it's not all horizontal 9a's but I guess it's steep anyway.
Good luck!
In reply to alexm198:
In other news IT'S STOPPED RAINING
Went for a wander in the rain to look at some of the crags a stone's throw away from the apartment and there are some dry lines. 6b, 6c+ and 7a all about 20-25m long on steep orange limestone. Also an amazing looking mini tufa line. 8m 6b+. Looks really good fun. Just couldn't see them from the window as a house was in the way.
Game on!
Just to get an early excuse in, there may be wet holds and it really is very humid
In other news IT'S STOPPED RAINING
Went for a wander in the rain to look at some of the crags a stone's throw away from the apartment and there are some dry lines. 6b, 6c+ and 7a all about 20-25m long on steep orange limestone. Also an amazing looking mini tufa line. 8m 6b+. Looks really good fun. Just couldn't see them from the window as a house was in the way.
Game on!
Just to get an early excuse in, there may be wet holds and it really is very humid
In reply to alexm198:
Cheers Alex. Yeah true about the choc! Weight back on track now so all good. I'm keeping them fairly relaxed but I've added in a date of June 2016. It's the routes that will take the longest really as I have my first race on Saturday, the climbing and antags are on-going and the get on a rope goal can happen pretty quickly really. I'm going to start pulling in some MTGs and move the climbing / antags to an 'on-going' sub-set. Will see how it goes this week but feeling MEGA-psyched at the moment which is good.
Mon: Movement/mobility drills.
Tue: Movement/mobility drills.
Wed:
Thu: 10 mile road ride, steady with some hill sprints. Lovely. Bouldering in evening. Varied volume of moves and some limit climbing in cave at end. Shoulders feel weak from lack of bouldering.
Fri:
Sat: 30 mile MTB ride on road. Sweetspot for most of it and hard hill work. Really hard ride, had to dig deep at end.
Sun: Indoor bouldering. Good warm up then some easy climbing. Followed by harder climbing in the cave. Worked the steep / roof orange V3 on the left side. Couldn't do it at first as left hand was slipping off the pinchy layback. Gave the hold a good clean and then ticked it first go after that! Pleased that I stuck with it instead of just moving on to another problem without finishing it. Climbed well and persevered! Satisfied. Only an hour session but packed a lot in and worked at limit for last half. Feel good.
Current weight: 142.6 lbs.
STGs (June 2016):
Weight to 140 by 10 April (146: 13 Mar (TICK!) / 144: 20 Mar (TICK!) / 142: 3 Apr (TICK!) / 140: 10 Apr)
Climbing x3 per week
Antagonistic training x2 per week
Solid prep for 1st race and complete (Apr 9)
Get on a rope and climb anything, lead, second or top rope
Complete first row on indoor route pyramid
MTGs (before end 2016):
Get on some routes (any trad & sport), lead or second
Complete first row on trad and bouldering pyramids
Too Drunk (f7A)
Sleeping with the Flowers (f7A)
Ousal Low (f7A+)
Ride The Beast at Coed y Brenin (just need to sort a date with mates)
Compete in Mids XC Series (1st one Apr 9)
Dover's Wall, Route 1 (S 4b) / Or another Severe (ish)
LTGs:
Dover's Wall, Route 4 (VS 4b)
Winter III
Get back to Font
VLTGs:
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c)
BHAGs:
To be comfortable having a go at any sensible mountain route.
Some Alpine stuff.
The Wheel of Life 8C.
Cheers Alex. Yeah true about the choc! Weight back on track now so all good. I'm keeping them fairly relaxed but I've added in a date of June 2016. It's the routes that will take the longest really as I have my first race on Saturday, the climbing and antags are on-going and the get on a rope goal can happen pretty quickly really. I'm going to start pulling in some MTGs and move the climbing / antags to an 'on-going' sub-set. Will see how it goes this week but feeling MEGA-psyched at the moment which is good.
Mon: Movement/mobility drills.
Tue: Movement/mobility drills.
Wed:
Thu: 10 mile road ride, steady with some hill sprints. Lovely. Bouldering in evening. Varied volume of moves and some limit climbing in cave at end. Shoulders feel weak from lack of bouldering.
Fri:
Sat: 30 mile MTB ride on road. Sweetspot for most of it and hard hill work. Really hard ride, had to dig deep at end.
Sun: Indoor bouldering. Good warm up then some easy climbing. Followed by harder climbing in the cave. Worked the steep / roof orange V3 on the left side. Couldn't do it at first as left hand was slipping off the pinchy layback. Gave the hold a good clean and then ticked it first go after that! Pleased that I stuck with it instead of just moving on to another problem without finishing it. Climbed well and persevered! Satisfied. Only an hour session but packed a lot in and worked at limit for last half. Feel good.
Current weight: 142.6 lbs.
STGs (June 2016):
Weight to 140 by 10 April (146: 13 Mar (TICK!) / 144: 20 Mar (TICK!) / 142: 3 Apr (TICK!) / 140: 10 Apr)
Climbing x3 per week
Antagonistic training x2 per week
Solid prep for 1st race and complete (Apr 9)
Get on a rope and climb anything, lead, second or top rope
Complete first row on indoor route pyramid
MTGs (before end 2016):
Get on some routes (any trad & sport), lead or second
Complete first row on trad and bouldering pyramids
Too Drunk (f7A)
Sleeping with the Flowers (f7A)
Ousal Low (f7A+)
Ride The Beast at Coed y Brenin (just need to sort a date with mates)
Compete in Mids XC Series (1st one Apr 9)
Dover's Wall, Route 1 (S 4b) / Or another Severe (ish)
LTGs:
Dover's Wall, Route 4 (VS 4b)
Winter III
Get back to Font
VLTGs:
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c)
BHAGs:
To be comfortable having a go at any sensible mountain route.
Some Alpine stuff.
The Wheel of Life 8C.
In reply to Joughton:
I guess my only contribution would be make sure you don't injure yourself with a training plan which is too much. Oh and have fun, it looks amazing.
> If I'm going to Flatanger in June, so two and a half months away, whats my best plan vis-a-vis fitness?
I guess my only contribution would be make sure you don't injure yourself with a training plan which is too much. Oh and have fun, it looks amazing.
1
In reply to Nick Russell:
Morning Camper,
For back three hangs (on the BM2000), I just put my back three fingers in the deeper 4 finger pockets - does the job, especially because, on the 2000, the 3 finger pockets are both different depths so you can only really use 'em as deep as the shallower one to keep the hangs even.
In other news, I'll see you at the Bristol 10K
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Camper,
For back three hangs (on the BM2000), I just put my back three fingers in the deeper 4 finger pockets - does the job, especially because, on the 2000, the 3 finger pockets are both different depths so you can only really use 'em as deep as the shallower one to keep the hangs even.
In other news, I'll see you at the Bristol 10K
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks Alex. I guess I'm a bit wimpy and the idea of being cold, scared and doing something that's hard (tm) doesn't appeal any more. Also the money and time factor of alpine stuff puts me off it. If I had a month off each year and could just go and camp out somewhere, then I'd do it, but I don't.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
SMART Goals:
2 core sessions
Weight - 12st 11lbs lost 2lbs?!?!?!
M - 8 hours fencing
T - Rest
W - 1 hour fencing
T - Rest
F - 1 hour fencing
S - Rest
S - 4 hours fencing
Still trogging away on the fencing stuff. It's mostly done, but not totally. Still got a bit more work ahead of me. Hope to get some core stuff done this week. As for doing WFD, I just need to get on it at least twice a week. That'll improve the fitness and I'll learn the route at the same time.
Thanks Alex. I guess I'm a bit wimpy and the idea of being cold, scared and doing something that's hard (tm) doesn't appeal any more. Also the money and time factor of alpine stuff puts me off it. If I had a month off each year and could just go and camp out somewhere, then I'd do it, but I don't.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
SMART Goals:
2 core sessions
Weight - 12st 11lbs lost 2lbs?!?!?!
M - 8 hours fencing
T - Rest
W - 1 hour fencing
T - Rest
F - 1 hour fencing
S - Rest
S - 4 hours fencing
Still trogging away on the fencing stuff. It's mostly done, but not totally. Still got a bit more work ahead of me. Hope to get some core stuff done this week. As for doing WFD, I just need to get on it at least twice a week. That'll improve the fitness and I'll learn the route at the same time.
Post edited at 19:39
In reply to robbiebrookie:
Thanks for the tip - seems obvious now you point it out! I gave it a go this evening. It makes it a lot harder! I guess that's a combination of not having the friction on the side of the pocket and not being used to the wider grip. I'll just have to get stronger...
> use a similar depth four finger pocket
Thanks for the tip - seems obvious now you point it out! I gave it a go this evening. It makes it a lot harder! I guess that's a combination of not having the friction on the side of the pocket and not being used to the wider grip. I'll just have to get stronger...
In reply to Joyce:
Hey Joyce, thanks for the advice. See my reply upthread - technically it works but I'm too weak to hang it! I was expecting it to be a bit harder (combination of unfamiliar and actually harder) but nowhere near the difference I actually felt.
It'll be good to see you at the 10k, even if it's most likely from behind :p Good news is I went for a run today and the knee felt fine. I'm going to have to be careful on the new skin where the blister was, but I should be able to put some meaningful training in before the event.
Hey Joyce, thanks for the advice. See my reply upthread - technically it works but I'm too weak to hang it! I was expecting it to be a bit harder (combination of unfamiliar and actually harder) but nowhere near the difference I actually felt.
It'll be good to see you at the 10k, even if it's most likely from behind :p Good news is I went for a run today and the knee felt fine. I'm going to have to be careful on the new skin where the blister was, but I should be able to put some meaningful training in before the event.
In reply to Nick Russell:
same prescription for me, my back three are weak...
> I'll just have to get stronger...
same prescription for me, my back three are weak...
In reply to alexm198:
Hi Alex, ha, no not a super-productive week for me! Maybe next week...
Monday: Wall. Boulder then double aerocap (1x painful, 1x boring).
Tues: Rest.
Wedns: Long day at work, very stressed.
Thurs: Ditto.
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Cuttings, bouldering. Fell off the top jug on Lost Decade multiple times - so close... a big improvement which I think is down to sorting my ancap out a little.
Sun: Back at the Cuttings but no psyche at all, sacked it off early. Turns out I was coming down with a cold.
Stuff at work now back under control so if I can shake the lergy things may improve, fingers crossed.
Hi Alex, ha, no not a super-productive week for me! Maybe next week...
Monday: Wall. Boulder then double aerocap (1x painful, 1x boring).
Tues: Rest.
Wedns: Long day at work, very stressed.
Thurs: Ditto.
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Cuttings, bouldering. Fell off the top jug on Lost Decade multiple times - so close... a big improvement which I think is down to sorting my ancap out a little.
Sun: Back at the Cuttings but no psyche at all, sacked it off early. Turns out I was coming down with a cold.
Stuff at work now back under control so if I can shake the lergy things may improve, fingers crossed.
1
In reply to Curious Yellow:
Good progress - you were finding it pretty tough last year weren't you so that must be really good to see...
Nice one
> Sat: Cuttings, bouldering. Fell off the top jug on Lost Decade multiple times - so close... a big improvement which I think is down to sorting my ancap out a little.
Good progress - you were finding it pretty tough last year weren't you so that must be really good to see...
Nice one
In reply to biscuit: ah okay that makes sense, cheers mate.
I think my base fitness is fairly good, I can traverse around the wall for a pretty long time if the moves don't get too hard. So I suppose I should try and keep that up whilst also getting strong doing hard boulders that I can't do the moves on, and then later make things longer so that I'm falling off because I'm pumped not because I can't do the move?
I think my base fitness is fairly good, I can traverse around the wall for a pretty long time if the moves don't get too hard. So I suppose I should try and keep that up whilst also getting strong doing hard boulders that I can't do the moves on, and then later make things longer so that I'm falling off because I'm pumped not because I can't do the move?
In reply to alexm198 + Si dH:
Cheers Alex. The trip was to El Chorro. It was a 6 day-er and got back on Tuesday evening. The food binge didn't stop with the curry and the chinese - fry-ups and beers every day in Spain!
Good problems Si! The Witch is surprisingly tiring isn't it?!
Had an excellent trip to Spain. Really enjoyed having a mega relaxed holiday spending a lot of time reading, lazy mornings, drinking beers and eating food.
M- Beacon Climbing Centre. I originally planned to get out on the Orme but the weather was awful all morning so I decided to get on a rope indoors in prep for Spain. Warmed up on a 6a and 6b+. Then did a 7a+,7a,7a,7b (2nd go), 7a before trying a really good but hard 7b+. Was pretty tired at this point so I pottered in the bouldering area before heading home.
T-Headed back to Birmingham and bought some new boots. Easy bouldering trying to break them in a bit.
W-Travel to Bristol (fry-up) and then to Malaga.
T-Fry-up and then got on Mar de Ortigas (8a) after Alek had put the draws in using the clip stick. It was absolutely baltic in the shade and I found every move nails - no warm up - poor tactics. After warming up in the car I had a better reccy the second time round. We broke the route into 3 sections, a 5 bolt 7b+ to a shake out, a 4 bolt 7b+ to a shake out and a 2 bolt 7a+ to the chains. In my head I I saw linking 1+2 as 7c+ and 2+3 as 7c. None of that might be right but it gave me some mini targets to hit. I thought linking either of the sections would have made it a successful trip!
F-Warmed up in the sun on Poema de Roca (P1) (7a) before moving back over to Desplo to jump back on MdO. 2 more tie ins with no real expectation other than to play on the moves and try and link some sections together.
S-Excellent rest day eating super cheap tapas in Alora.
S-Warmed up TR-ing a couple of 6a's before jumping on MdO. 4 RP's. 1st was terrible. 2nd I managed to link section 2 and 3 together which was encouraging. The 3rd and 4th I dropped the end of section 2 from the bottom. This was when I started to think that I might actually climb the route.
M-Same warm up as S. 1st RP burn I dropped off the end of Section 2 crux again. 2nd RP burn I fell off after this move and I started to feel really tired. 3rd RP it was in the bag! Couldn't believe it. Bagged a Spanish 8a. My first real sport 8a - 25m of sustained climbing rather than the bouldery routes I've picked out in the past.
T-Dossed around putting clips in on another route at Desplomilandia but after having a second play I was happy to belay for the rest of the day.
Cheers Alex. The trip was to El Chorro. It was a 6 day-er and got back on Tuesday evening. The food binge didn't stop with the curry and the chinese - fry-ups and beers every day in Spain!
Good problems Si! The Witch is surprisingly tiring isn't it?!
Had an excellent trip to Spain. Really enjoyed having a mega relaxed holiday spending a lot of time reading, lazy mornings, drinking beers and eating food.
M- Beacon Climbing Centre. I originally planned to get out on the Orme but the weather was awful all morning so I decided to get on a rope indoors in prep for Spain. Warmed up on a 6a and 6b+. Then did a 7a+,7a,7a,7b (2nd go), 7a before trying a really good but hard 7b+. Was pretty tired at this point so I pottered in the bouldering area before heading home.
T-Headed back to Birmingham and bought some new boots. Easy bouldering trying to break them in a bit.
W-Travel to Bristol (fry-up) and then to Malaga.
T-Fry-up and then got on Mar de Ortigas (8a) after Alek had put the draws in using the clip stick. It was absolutely baltic in the shade and I found every move nails - no warm up - poor tactics. After warming up in the car I had a better reccy the second time round. We broke the route into 3 sections, a 5 bolt 7b+ to a shake out, a 4 bolt 7b+ to a shake out and a 2 bolt 7a+ to the chains. In my head I I saw linking 1+2 as 7c+ and 2+3 as 7c. None of that might be right but it gave me some mini targets to hit. I thought linking either of the sections would have made it a successful trip!
F-Warmed up in the sun on Poema de Roca (P1) (7a) before moving back over to Desplo to jump back on MdO. 2 more tie ins with no real expectation other than to play on the moves and try and link some sections together.
S-Excellent rest day eating super cheap tapas in Alora.
S-Warmed up TR-ing a couple of 6a's before jumping on MdO. 4 RP's. 1st was terrible. 2nd I managed to link section 2 and 3 together which was encouraging. The 3rd and 4th I dropped the end of section 2 from the bottom. This was when I started to think that I might actually climb the route.
M-Same warm up as S. 1st RP burn I dropped off the end of Section 2 crux again. 2nd RP burn I fell off after this move and I started to feel really tired. 3rd RP it was in the bag! Couldn't believe it. Bagged a Spanish 8a. My first real sport 8a - 25m of sustained climbing rather than the bouldery routes I've picked out in the past.
T-Dossed around putting clips in on another route at Desplomilandia but after having a second play I was happy to belay for the rest of the day.
Post edited at 12:42
7
In reply to JayK:
Congratulations JayK!
If you had some decent tactics (no 4th day on RPs) and diet (no beer and fry-ups ) you might sneak up an 8a+?
Congratulations JayK!
If you had some decent tactics (no 4th day on RPs) and diet (no beer and fry-ups ) you might sneak up an 8a+?
2
In reply to alexm198:
M: Got on MO and tried the bottom bit properly for the first time, disappointingly hard. Would have made it from floor to shakeout if i hadn't hit myself on head with hanging stick clip. Still not linked second half in a oner.
T: Rest to save skin
W: Usual pre holiday work mania
T: Late flight delayed so got to accom at 3am
F: Went to do some was routes, then quickly did a couple of long hard 7as. Good start considering how tired
S: Did some warm ups then got bouldery 7b second go, about par
S: Active rest, scared myself on a 6a+ slab. Great route but solid E3!
Aim for this week is to try to relax and not ruin everyone else's holiday. Spoiler alert: I'm doing ok but next weeks submission will be low on achievement
M: Got on MO and tried the bottom bit properly for the first time, disappointingly hard. Would have made it from floor to shakeout if i hadn't hit myself on head with hanging stick clip. Still not linked second half in a oner.
T: Rest to save skin
W: Usual pre holiday work mania
T: Late flight delayed so got to accom at 3am
F: Went to do some was routes, then quickly did a couple of long hard 7as. Good start considering how tired
S: Did some warm ups then got bouldery 7b second go, about par
S: Active rest, scared myself on a 6a+ slab. Great route but solid E3!
Aim for this week is to try to relax and not ruin everyone else's holiday. Spoiler alert: I'm doing ok but next weeks submission will be low on achievement
1
In reply to JayK:
Good effort - and what Ally said!
(Don't know how you can climb after a fry-up...)
I was coming off the witch trying to get my left heel on for the cross through move. I could do it ok when completely fresh but found it difficult to keep my right hand on the slopey crimp when doing it on the link.
Good effort - and what Ally said!
(Don't know how you can climb after a fry-up...)
I was coming off the witch trying to get my left heel on for the cross through move. I could do it ok when completely fresh but found it difficult to keep my right hand on the slopey crimp when doing it on the link.
1
In reply to AJM:
Cheers, yeah I'm feeling pretty cheerful about progress. The moves have always felt okay, I just couldn't join them all together - which in retrospect might have been a Clue
Cheers, yeah I'm feeling pretty cheerful about progress. The moves have always felt okay, I just couldn't join them all together - which in retrospect might have been a Clue
1
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks for starting the thread Alex! I live in the southwest of Norway, but to be having an ice season from November to March here is quite rare I believe (mine started in January). Makes complete sense what you say, the point is I didn´t stand up properly and didn´t bring my hips in to the ice. Hope I’ll remember the right technique for next years season.
M: Tried to climb ice, line we planned on climbing looked shorter than we could remember (we thought 20m, was more like 10) and was fully in the wind. Drove a little and found another line, first axe placement, the whole outer layer broke from axe to ground, there was like 3cm of air behind 5cm snow ice and under that the ice was really wet. Decided to bail.
T: running and core
W: Went to develop a drytooling crag with a friend. Placed my first bolt (with a hand drill in granite, pretty hard work) and did some aidclimbing to do so, really scary to hang on a rurp I must say.
T: climbing outdoors, did a bolted 4+ as trad route (hadn’t seen the potential before, a cam in a break halfway up and the smallest peenut just over it). Then onsighted a bolted 6- and 6. Quite happy with onsighting the 6 as the crag is known to be stiff graded and I really screwed it with routereading. Then went to try a 7- tradroute, but needed to resort in aiding the top as it started to get dark.
F: travel to work, managed 2 small skitours in the evening
S: work
S: work and travel home
Thanks for starting the thread Alex! I live in the southwest of Norway, but to be having an ice season from November to March here is quite rare I believe (mine started in January). Makes complete sense what you say, the point is I didn´t stand up properly and didn´t bring my hips in to the ice. Hope I’ll remember the right technique for next years season.
M: Tried to climb ice, line we planned on climbing looked shorter than we could remember (we thought 20m, was more like 10) and was fully in the wind. Drove a little and found another line, first axe placement, the whole outer layer broke from axe to ground, there was like 3cm of air behind 5cm snow ice and under that the ice was really wet. Decided to bail.
T: running and core
W: Went to develop a drytooling crag with a friend. Placed my first bolt (with a hand drill in granite, pretty hard work) and did some aidclimbing to do so, really scary to hang on a rurp I must say.
T: climbing outdoors, did a bolted 4+ as trad route (hadn’t seen the potential before, a cam in a break halfway up and the smallest peenut just over it). Then onsighted a bolted 6- and 6. Quite happy with onsighting the 6 as the crag is known to be stiff graded and I really screwed it with routereading. Then went to try a 7- tradroute, but needed to resort in aiding the top as it started to get dark.
F: travel to work, managed 2 small skitours in the evening
S: work
S: work and travel home
In reply to 0.5viking:
Forgot to add goals. My STG was work on this years goals which are sport: onsight 7- an rp 7+ and trad: onsight 6 and rp 7-. Did manage to get on 7- trad, but used aid. Next weeks STG will be the same.
Forgot to add goals. My STG was work on this years goals which are sport: onsight 7- an rp 7+ and trad: onsight 6 and rp 7-. Did manage to get on 7- trad, but used aid. Next weeks STG will be the same.
In reply to alexm198:
Just for interest for those newer to training (and injuries/rehab) like me - watched this from Kris Peters of TrainingBeta / Teamof2 fame and thought I'd share.
Interesting to see a climbing coach working through in some detail what he does with his athletes on topics like: Dead hangs, Antagonist work, I/Y/T's, TRX, bit on Diet and recovery, some Systems Board.
Its more 'how to', i.e. not a training programme and a bit American!
I found some of it useful, video so much more than just article. It's 50mins, but you can just jump to bits that are of interest for you, quite easy to navigate.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myldFDAfD-E&nohtml5=False
Ps. there is a bit of an audio issue that gets fixed after about 1min40secs
Just for interest for those newer to training (and injuries/rehab) like me - watched this from Kris Peters of TrainingBeta / Teamof2 fame and thought I'd share.
Interesting to see a climbing coach working through in some detail what he does with his athletes on topics like: Dead hangs, Antagonist work, I/Y/T's, TRX, bit on Diet and recovery, some Systems Board.
Its more 'how to', i.e. not a training programme and a bit American!
I found some of it useful, video so much more than just article. It's 50mins, but you can just jump to bits that are of interest for you, quite easy to navigate.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myldFDAfD-E&nohtml5=False
Ps. there is a bit of an audio issue that gets fixed after about 1min40secs
Post edited at 14:22
1
In reply to mattrm:
If it helps, Ben and I are keen for a crack at WFD in the summer. Probably late summer as I'm only 10 weeks post break, but since I managed to ski today there might be hope...
If it helps, Ben and I are keen for a crack at WFD in the summer. Probably late summer as I'm only 10 weeks post break, but since I managed to ski today there might be hope...
1
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks Alex. Was pretty psyched to be back on rock! This week a bit difficult for training as had to take my mum and grandma for their annual walking holiday.
Mum has just been allocated a guide dog so another factor to keep an eye on! That being said, I've now learnt the value of multiple sessions at the gym.
M - rest
T - CapPow/ Campus
W - AM yoga
PM body balance/bench press/fingerboard
T - sports massage (that's training right?)
F - Aerocap/fingerboard/conditioning Climbing Unit
S - walk
S - walk
Thanks Alex. Was pretty psyched to be back on rock! This week a bit difficult for training as had to take my mum and grandma for their annual walking holiday.
Mum has just been allocated a guide dog so another factor to keep an eye on! That being said, I've now learnt the value of multiple sessions at the gym.
M - rest
T - CapPow/ Campus
W - AM yoga
PM body balance/bench press/fingerboard
T - sports massage (that's training right?)
F - Aerocap/fingerboard/conditioning Climbing Unit
S - walk
S - walk
Post edited at 20:49
In reply to Just Tintin:
That'd be awesome. I'm very keen for that. I'm sure you and Ben will dispatch it easily. It's right up your alley. Have you been to Navigation before?
I'm hoping to make a start on it soon, so hopefully by the time you're fully up to strength at least I'll be able to give you the beta.
That'd be awesome. I'm very keen for that. I'm sure you and Ben will dispatch it easily. It's right up your alley. Have you been to Navigation before?
I'm hoping to make a start on it soon, so hopefully by the time you're fully up to strength at least I'll be able to give you the beta.
In reply to mattrm:
Sounds like a plan.
Nope - apart from sampling Classic Gower VSs a couple of years ago we've not really been out that way so will be good to try Navigation.
Sounds like a plan.
Nope - apart from sampling Classic Gower VSs a couple of years ago we've not really been out that way so will be good to try Navigation.
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