> If you need to do a move statically, and aren't sure of your feet, for me it's normally a case of not having good body tension. That's partly shoulders, fingers and core, any sag and your feet might pop. I've been feeling more confident on my feet at Malham this year partly due to been stronger in all those areas, or that's the impression I have anyway.
I think you have a point, in hindsight it may be a case of not enough core (and shoulder) strength (I think my finger strength is OK). I'm not rubbish on very overhung problems as long as the footholds are decent, but I do struggle with bad holds/smears on less steep boulders.
> Stop right there. The easiest way is the most efficient way and a tick is a tick. The easiest way might look ugly but it is still the easiest way. You dont get an extra grade for style but the way some people talk you could easily assume that you could. It is limiting failing of boulderers in particular to admire the static and the powerful for its own sake above efficiency and effectiveness. Dynamism is an important quality to have and 9 times out of 10 throwing is more efficient than locking.
> Also whilst "just locking off" seems like a basic ask it isn't. The shoulder is a very complicated joint and pulling up is just has important as holding the position. Also alignment of the shoulder has a part to play. Sometimes dropping the shoulder means you only draw on minor stabilising type muscles so experimentation with positioning is worthwhile. The application of force to help through the trunk to the feet involves the full chain and there maybe weaknesses to work here.
That's sort of what I meant, doing the move more statically felt/looked more efficient than dynamically, style aside. That is, unless in both cases I were able to keep my foot on the foothold, in which case a dynamic move would probably be more efficient. So I think we agree on this (?). Regardless, no matter which way was the most efficient in that particular case, I feel like being better at locking off can only help me (among other things), hence this post.
Perhaps like you said I need to experiment more with positioning. Lately I've tried to become more body-aware as I know it's one of my weaknesses; I also happen to be absolutely rubbish at arêtes.
Thanks for the link, I'll look it up.