UKC

Discussion here about any possible retro bolting:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=638504&v=1#x8276559

Opinions wanted pls!

This is from Gordon Jenkin:

The routes highlighted in bold would be my suggestions for retro-bolting.

Note: The three climbs onto the large ledge atop The Charlatan share two finishes above.
It looks like it could be possible to construct four replacement four lines (and perhaps keep the start of
The Charlatan as its current solo).

UPPER LIFT
Dewdrop (HS) – worthy as is.
Canine Crack (E1) – classic crag trad (it now has its own abseil rings)
Bogger Bob (E2 or E3) – best trad here (original E3 finish to tree now recleaned and has 2 pegs)
Mark My Words (E3) – original lethal start has had major reclean and bolted as part of Shin Gi Tai(2).
Intention is to reclean finish and thereby make good hybrid E2.
Al Hail Cathal (E1) - strong line that needs further cleaning. Currently no safe anchor at top.
Would need OK from Martin Crocker if people wanted this to be a bolted F6a.
True Colours (E1) – strong line with tricky small gear. Now has its own abseil rings.
Fishy Favours (VS) – a two move wonder. Bolt has been replaced.
Little Slit (VS) – nice little trad crack.

LOWER LIFT
*Chippa (E1) – partly bolted.
*Choppa (E2) – partly bolted.
Food for Worms (E1) – OK trad line
*Nice and Dry (HVS) – two old pegs
*The Charlatan (HVS) – nice start (bold) but indifferent finish.
*Little Plums (VS) – one old peg. Nice start but no independent finish.
Rotten Corner (VS) – worthy if a bit more cleaning and threads replaced.
Still Stuck on You (HVS) – hybrid that has become an established crag novelty.
Sweet FA (HVS) – worthy as is.
*The Corrective Party (E2) – often climbed with pads, pre-clipping, stick-clipping as no bolt.
And the Crowds Went Wild (E2) – classic crag trad.
That One Might Be Work (E1) – in-situ sling
Can’t ‘Member (HVS) – takes gear (and is actually VS 4c)

In reply to Urgles:

I've given my opinion on the other thread - I'm not in favour. I'm particularly not impressed that the question is "what should be kept" and not "should any routes be retroed", together with attempts to try to avoid "another typical trad vs. sport clash here, or another argument about semantics: sport crag, trad crag, mixed ethic crag, "sport by default" crag" debate.

In reply to Urgles:
Is this a joke? No!

In reply to brew_guru:

Is what a joke?

In reply to Urgles:

This whole thread!
No need for bolting what so ever!

How come this is being allowed to happen
but there's outrage at the suggestion of
putting lower off's on the sketchy trad at
Brean?

In reply to brew_guru:
Explain exactly why this thread is a joke?

Surely then all forms of communication are a joke?

and I see you are fond of clipping bolts.

Thats the joke.

In reply to Urgles:

Theres obviously no point in asking people's opinions as all you get is bullshit.

I'm out.

Idiots.

In reply to Urgles:
I love climbing on bolts, I love climbing trad and I'm just discovering the beauty of bouldering.......I love climbing!
What I find offensive is bolting trad lines for the sake of a new sport climbing guide book! This is a public forum and you're asking for opinions, if you don't like said opinion great let's discuss it but please don't insult me by calling me an idiot....were are adults that enjoy climbing after all?

In reply to Urgles:

Sounds good. Give us a shout if you need any help

In reply to brew_guru:

So why did you say the tread is a joke? that is an offence to me and also an idiotic statement and where did i say that we were "bolting trad lines for the sake of a new sport climbing guide book"? I didnt.

In reply to Urgles:




I don't understand what you/Gordon Jenkin are actually saying here - a bit incoherent.



By 'original lethal start' do you mean that the start of the E3 is (was) unprotected but now its been bolted its safer and only E2? N.B. There are lots of 'lethal start' trad routes; its part of the game.



Why would you want to bolt a 'strong line E1'

>*The Charlatan (HVS) – nice start (bold) but indifferent finish.

Bold but not 'lethal'? Why bolt?


Confused here. It has no bolt? What are you 'stick-clipping'? Or is this just another 'bold/lethal' start incorporated into the E2 grade?

In reply to Urgles:
First of all maybe I should clarify what I meant by "no need for bolting what so ever". This was meant as don't bolt the trad routes here and not on the bigger picture (if that makes sense)?

Surely the statement "getting the crag sorted for the guidebook" implies just that?

Edited to note that I've just read your "I would like to make it clear that we didn't have the intention of independently retroing anything at WQ for the new guide" on the other thread. Many thanks for clearing that up!

In reply to Urgles:

Hi
As I said on the other thread and being more specific in response to this thread about the bold climbs; I do not think the climbs listed in bold should have any bolts added.
I very strongly think this is the case.