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Route setting your own wall at home?

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 zimpara 17 Apr 2016

How do you guys set your holds on your wall at home?
I've started putting a wall together, what are the objectives when setting. Do you set a group of holds and just work through them or just use them to hold?

So far I've got a high sidepull going right onto a low slopey crimp, (matching that is the goal) and then once matched moving to a higher bulgy pinch further right.
Any help would be good, going to get some more holds. (And just mount them all randomly?)

Thanks
Post edited at 11:33
2
 3leggeddog 17 Apr 2016
In reply to zimpara:

Randomly spray holds on the wall, invite your mates around and play add a hold.
OP zimpara 17 Apr 2016
In reply to 3leggeddog:

How unorderly... I like order
1
 Fraser 17 Apr 2016
In reply to zimpara:
Nah, what you like is setting problems YOU can do Much better to get friends round and each add a bit to the problems as they're getting set. That way you don't set to your strengths, which is the real danger.

Edit: I should have said, just stick up as many holds as your board will take, rather than adding them as you make up the problem. You've more chance of including a low percentage (or seemingly impossible) move if you do.
Post edited at 21:31
 planetmarshall 17 Apr 2016
In reply to Fraser:

> Nah, what you like is setting problems YOU can do Much better to get friends round and each add a bit to the problems as they're getting set. That way you don't set to your strengths, which is the real danger.

Mr MacLeod has said that the biggest mistake he sees people making on their own walls is using massive footholds. So maybe try just thinking about the hand placements, and liberally spray small holds on the wall just for feet (the circuit board at the Manchester depot is like this)
 Mike-W-99 17 Apr 2016
In reply to planetmarshall:

He may have a point but some of the "jugs"we have bought have ended up as footholds on our wall!
 jkarran 18 Apr 2016
In reply to zimpara:

When I built mine I just scattergunned the wall but with a few more undercuts and foot holds low down, sidepulls toward the outer edges, and jugs at the top. I then played on it making up problems, moving and turning holds as necessary until I had a decent set from easy warm-ups to projects I had on the go for years. The wall no longer exists but I guess I'd periodically strip it and reset for variety.
jk
 john arran 18 Apr 2016
In reply to zimpara:

We have a bigger wall than I suppose most will have so I've set it up very much like a mini bouldering wall, but even when I had a cellar wall in Sheffield I was careful to maintain coloured/tagged problems or circuits of different lengths and styles. I think this is more important to some people and less so to others when using the wall themselves, but it does make the wall much more interesting to other visitors, as they spend far less time and energy working out what's in or out and more more time actually trying the problems.

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