UKC

Hello UKC Forum,

Me and the missus have an ascent of the Blanc via the Gouter route lined up in August and I am keen to have her acclimatised prior to the ascent. I am toying with the idea of camping near the Cosmique hut, thereby allowing her an unparalleled view of the range, a great bivu opportunity, and perhaps whet her whistle for future climbs in the area by exposing her to it. Has anyone here experience of camping in this area? I know that the official line is that it's not allowed, though one sees plenty of pics that illustrate the contrary. If we were to ascend the telepherique, hang about the midi for a tad, descend to the glacier, mope about the refuge for a spell, set up our tent late and get out early, would we be facing any action from the gendarmerie?

Constructive thoughts, critiques, piss-taking etc. all welcome

In reply to sanguine:
Hi mate,

We did this back in June and were planning to spend the night in the Midi ice tunnel. We discovered there was a number of good size snow pits dug and free down on the glacier so we slept down in one of them. Very well sheltered and it was a clear night and the weather was good. Could be worth a considering if you fancy a quiter night. We didnt have a tent just bivy gear but there was others with tents and we had no trouble.

i think if you arrive late and are gone by sunrise you'll be fine,

Take care on walking down the arete that late in the day though ( Slushy )

Neil

In reply to Ndawson:

Sleeping in the tunnel - that's an interesting thought - would not have known that was a possibility, though now that you mention it I remember there being carved out ledges etc there. Thanks for the positive response regarding my plans - will most likely bivy in this case just to save on time/weight etc. Care on the arete of course

In reply to sanguine:
It used to be possible to bivi in the old hut which is located just below the current Cosmiques Hut. I have witnessed tents in the valley being confiscated but that was some years ago.

Al

In reply to GridNorth:

When you say "used to", how long are we talking about?

In reply to sanguine:

It was 4 or 5 years ago which is not much use to you, I know, but someone may come along and confirm the current situation or you could post it as a separate request for specific information.

In reply to sanguine:

Due to last season being very warm the tunnel was dripping and had small pools of water in it so be prepared for that if you go in August. It would have been grim to sleep in there.

In reply to GridNorth:

Slept in that hut about 2 years ago in May. It's basically a shed with an open door. The ladder approach is interesting - go the other way!

In reply to GridNorth:

It's still standing. To call it a hut though might be a bit generous! More like an old shack that has seen better days. Sleeps 4 comfortably (though bring sleeping bags/pads), 5 okay, anymore it's going to be a squeeze. Note that the hut is pretty much open to the elements all year round (last time I was there the door had fallen apart and the place was filled with snow). Still, it's popular with locals looking to avoid paying for a refuge. Obviously there's no guarantee that you won't arrive there to find it already filled with people.

In reply to tjoliver:

I think the door is back on. Definitely chilly in winter with no door!

In reply to sanguine:

I haven't camped there, some people do, but have bivvied there loads. I'm not 100% sure but I think camping and bivvying is only allowed sunset to sunrise. Some years ago tents were removed, some flattened but this is not regular. I regularly bivvy not far from Cosmiques hut. Old hut, old hut platform, some flat topped boulders nearby and, with a good mat, dig a small trench in the snow for a bivvy are all options I regularly use. Often there are old snow holes nearby - but check carefully for grumpy occupants returning late. The tunnel and Midi complex can be very cold, can be very wet and is not that pleasant.
Have fun

In reply to sanguine:

The hut GridNorth is talking about can be seen here:
http://images.summitpost.org/original/117834.JPG
It has the bonus of being free and being mostly empty.

In reply to sanguine:
It depends how you acclimatise but it Might be better to do the Vallee Blanche traverse and get the cable car back (more views), then sleep low. Going high and sleeping high can be miserable if you aren't already acclimatised. Then look to do a 4,000m peak, eg MB du Tacul if you'll be doing the Gouter route for MB itself or Gran Paradiso.

In reply to sanguine:

In summer there's always tents in the Vallee Blanche, officially its not allowed, only bivvying between sunset and sunrise but in practice the same applies to camping. Also the senset/sunrise thing is pretty elastic, the gendarmes do occasionally waste French taxpayers money flying a helicopter up there to confiscate a few tents but very rarely. If you want to be on the safe side put your tent up in the evening when it starts to go chilly and take it down in the morning when you set off for your climb.
Regarding the Midi station, I've slept in there a few times but never in the icy tunnel, there's a nice warm room near to where the viewing platform at the top of the Cosmiques ridge is. Its handy if you don't want to take a tent etc with you but misses the point of camping outside if you want a great experience.

In reply to pec:

Thanks to pec, and to all responders - I will now follwo the plan of bivying in a snow-hole out on the Vallee Blanche, though will bring the tent with if needed. As we will not be leaving for any ascents on the morning after, rather just using the altitude for acclimatisation, I'm not worried about being moved on or having the tent confiscated (We'll be in it). I will also use the time to check out the previously mentioned hut, though I do not envisage using it - will make for an interesting detour as part of the trip.

Thank you all - once again, ye provide a priceless service to those less in the know Hope to be able to return the favour in the future to some on here.

In reply to sanguine:


Your choice obviously but hanging around in a tent on a glacier rather than doing something (even just a good walk) sounds pretty odd to me, particularly after the expense of the telepherique. Perhaps head somewhere quieter and cheaper initially with an easy, low peak?

In reply to sanguine:

As others have said staying overnight is good assuming you have done some acclimatisation beforehand. Eg; Aiguille de Tour from the Albert Premier. When staying in the Vallee Blanche even a short walk or route would help with the acclimatisation. Eg the ridge that leads to the Cosmiques Hut, part of the Lachenal traverse or crossing the Vallee Blanche.

In reply to MG:

That's a thought also - perhaps a recommendation for an easier, lower peak?

The aim is also to expose the missus to the region and acclimatize her with lower stress effort - hence the "hanging around"...not as ambitious as me

In reply to sanguine:

Personally Id take a bus through the tunnel and then up to one of the Italian bivi huts, which are comfortable, free and remove the need to carry a tent. Perhaps the one below Petite Mont Blanc which has superb views of the Miage face and a easy peak just above it.