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UKC Fitclub 475

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 TonyB 24 Apr 2016
Hello FitClubbers! Hope you all had a good week. I've tried to do the stats pretty quickly after coming home for climbing so that you didn't have to wait to long. Please let me know if I've missed anyone out.

Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=638947&v=1
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Psyche video of the week vimeo.com/18787864
It’s a bit more chilled out than psyche. It was made by a guy I used to know in Finland, I really like it as to me it sums up what’s great about bouldering. It was pretty successful, and Aki went on to make various videos for Black Diamond.

mattrm Hope the fence is finished soon and you can get some climbing.
Si dH Sounds like you’re making progress on the boulder projects. Good effort getting out after work.
AJM I found the Cider Soak conversation pretty interesting. Sounds like a tough but rewarding route.
James Moyle I know how strenuous DIY can be. It must be good conditioning.
Tyler I meant to comment on your post ealier. I’m fairly sure that I can’t do one armed lower offs.
Humptydumpty Sounds like enjoyable sport climbing. Great stuff.
Heelhookofglory Good work on completing the 2nd row of your bouldering pyramid. Does your new username come from a specific route?
Dandan82 Sounds like a good week. +45kg 2RM pull up on the BM edges is seriously strong. I would imagine that’s well above what many 8a climbers can do.
IanBell 2x 7a in a day is a pretty significant milestone. Well done.
Ally Smith “Felt tired out by 2&4 year olds, but totally aced the monkey bars…! “ I know this all too well. I enjoy getting the odd playground session in when I go with my son.
Hms Hope the ankle is ok. That sounds like a bad setup for a wall.
Planetmarshall We all have good and bad weeks. Hope the motivation is comes back.
Biscuit Hope this week goes better
Hokkyokusei Great that you can get out on the bike. I hope the shin splints get better soon.
JayK Good luck on Mussel Beach.
Nick Russell I was interested to hear you’d been on Wallsend. I’ve never been there and always been a bit put off by not understanding when it’s in condition. Congrats on the 7a+ flash.
Emily Sounds like an awesome day at Wallsend. Were you climbing with Nick?
Alexm198 7a RP by the end of the year. Sounds like a good goal.
0.5viking I’m not really familiar with Norwegian grades, but it looks like your climbing some big numbers. Hope the project goes well.
Just Tintin 1 legged V4 must take some real doing.
 Tyler 24 Apr 2016
In reply to TonyB:

I took it a lot easier this week, partly on the advice of a lot of people on here but mainly because of another busy work week:
M: Rest
T: Depot
W: Yogach
T: Quick Depot hit, they've reset all the purples which is timely as I've just finished most of the Reds (the ones that don't have a dodgy out of control last move!)
F: Rest
S: Malham, main OH from the ground x4, hit the crux x3 but no real progress.
S: Sports massage, first ever, some excruciating pain but not as much as I was expecting. Quick Depot hit, getting through a few of the purples but can't touch the steep ones.
 JayK 24 Apr 2016
In reply to TonyB:

No outdoor climbing this week but I'm hoping to get back down at LPT next weekend as the tides look reasonable. Lost motivation a little during a pretty hectic week at work. Felt mega stressed which seems to have passed. Ended up having a wicked session down the wall yesterday and going for my first run of the year today.

M-Rest
T-Rest
W-Wall. General bouldering up to around 7B
T-Wall. General bouldering up to around 7B
F- Rest
S- Systems board training. Trying something new in the hope that it will mix up my power endurance training. Foot on-campussing 4min 5min 4min.
S-General pottering around before trying a bit of FoC. Couple of fingers felt a bit dodge so I went for a run instead. 5k. Not going to go mad with the running otherwise my leg will fall off again.
 humptydumpty 24 Apr 2016
STGs (next week):
* run*, boulder, yoga* every weekday (* or equivalent)
* get out on the rock every weekend
* don't get injured, drink alcohol or smoke anything

MTGs (end of June):
* finish Clockwork Orange, a 50-move problem at the local wall. I guess it's 6b, cos I can do all the moves
* tick 50% of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390
* learn how to fall off sport climbs

LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* climb Punsola-Reniu (aid allowed!)


M: run, quick boulder - linked last 8 moves on Clockwork Orange!! IT'S ON! very relaxing evening yoga.
T: run, more work on Clockwork Orange. Linked first 47 - getting close!!! Did this while quite tired, but getting some good rests along the way (esp at 40/41). Need to remember to sort out feet before letting go of 46.
W: tai chi, 1hr cycle, gym. tweaked my left arm a bit, hope it's muscle, not rotator cuff. climbed a 6c+ (4th try, after a few goes last week) and worked out the crux on a 7a. onsighted a 6b/+ (don't remember) should try climbing all 6a+.
T: climb at gym, (weird) yoga, cycle. climbed all 5, 6a & 6a+ at the gym, bar one 6a+ where it seems like a starting hold is missing (i.e. i can't work out the sequence). tweaked left forearm and shoulder? yoga teacher was singing a lot, which was a first
F: knackered. short cycle, massage (does that count?), and a brief go on clockwork orange, confirming the forearm problem. (hopefully?) a pulled muscle (brachioradialis?). not a great day.
S: no partner for the w/e, so did my first VF instead. beautiful, and relaxing! couple of hours hike and a bit of scrambling too.
S: rest day! couple of hours hike, and a couple of moves scrambling and that's it.


All in all, a tiring week. Right knee feeling dodgy when pressing on it bent past about 100 degrees, or when sitting with a straight leg! Heading to Kalymnos in a couple of weeks, so need to modify my goals a bit to account for that. Thinking easing off on the volume of training, and focussing a bit more on strength might be good. And then trying some 6bs and 6cs once I'm there.
 Si dH 25 Apr 2016
In reply to humptydumpty:

Don't know if you have been to Kaly before or exactly what you mean by strength trainin, but I'd suggest if you want to do that then focus more on upper body than fingers, ie steep bouldering will help you more than fingerboarding. As long as your shoulder is ok of course.
In reply to Tyler:

> I took it a lot easier this week, partly on the advice of a lot of people on here but mainly because of another busy work week:

Three Depot sessions and one routes day outdoors and you "took it easy" - that would be my busiest week ever (outside of climbing holidays abroad)! You really can't help yourself... still, at least you had a rest day before going to Malham.

 Si dH 25 Apr 2016
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks for doing the stats Tony, hope you had a good day out.
Not as much progress as I'd have liked this week...


STGs (next 1-2 months):
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Wright's Traverse (f7B)
- moffatrocity (f7B+)
- Do a selection of other Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs as time permits

MTGs (next 3-6 months):
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- More Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs and hopefully Ft7B+s

LTG (6-12 months):
- F8a
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)

M: shoulder rehab work. (Also did some more after posting last Sunday.)
T: Went to Wright's after the work. Hoped to finish by 430 but had a shit day and couldn't leave until gone 6. Went climbing anyway, but was short of time. First go on Wright's Traverse I just ran out of core and lost my feet as I hit the hold on the crux. Second go similar but I felt slightly weaker, and then it was going too dark.
W: rest.
T: Fingerboard session doing max hangs. Upped the weight a bit over previous sessions, doing the 18mm edge with +31kg, 2 finger pocket with +2.3kg amd 35 degree slopers with +25.3kg. Usual 4 x 10 second hangs with each and 4-5 minute rests between. Shoulder rehab afterwards.
F: rest
S: rest
S: Reopened my account on Moffatrocity for 2016. Felt strong, did the hard moves on Jericho Road (7B that shares the finish) fairly quickly and then got to that point fairly easily 4 times on Moff, but didn't stick the crux. Felt a bit tired after that. I timed my attempts, it takes 35 seconds of (all hard with poor feet) climbing to the big move where I'm falling off, then there is 20 - 30 seconds of (still hard, but more fingery/ core-y and less shouldery/powerful) climbing to go. So I'm hoping repeaters will translate well as training. After Moff, I had a few quick goes on Pink Indians but couldn't weight the right heel properly and it was chewing my skin. Then went to the Tor hoping for a quick tick of Rattle and Hump start (7A+). Didn't happen - the crux reach turned out to be a long way for me and I'm going to have to find some new foot beta when I go back. Did some more shoulder rehab in the evening.

Also did a few other short bits of shoulder rehab work. It's been better again this week. I've started doing wall slides which look ridiculously easy but feel ridiculously hard!

Also have a strange finger injury. Its definitely none of the injuries Dave Mac talks about in Make or Break. Its painful to touch between the PIP and hand on my left index finger, on the side next to my index finger. Also slightly swollen. It doesnt hurt either when crimping or open handing (no pain through yesterday even though it was 'bad' the whole time.) The only 'grip' that has seemed to aggravate it a bit is when holding a 2kg weight (its a dumbbell with quite a wide, soft grip) for shoulder rehab exercises. This made it hurt down the back of my hand from the tender site on my index finger and around to my thumb. I think it's probably something wrong with the extensor tendon or a related structure.
The reason I'm worrying about it is that although climbing is currently unaffected, it had originally started hurting a tiny bit about 2 months ago (initial cause was, I think, a more obvious problem - a tweak I felt when crimping in a strange hand position.) However, that was very minor and the worse tenderness and swelling only picked up this last Friday. I think what aggravated it was doing 'powerfingers' antagonists at my desk, although I did do a heavy fingerboard session the night before. I am keen to ensure I don't do something else to aggravate it further, but I'm not sure what would. Most advice just says to keep climbing as long as you are below the pain threshold, which I already was.

Not a good week overall. Felt fairly strong but volume of training was down (largely due to lack of time Tuesday evening), I ate badly in the week and didnt tick anything at the weekend. Work was hard this week, long hours. It was a big plus that Crag X was dry again, but looking at the forecast I wouldn't be surprised if that was reversed by next weekend.

My wife is away next Thursday-Tuesday so I need to plan out how to take best advantage of one or two extra sessions over the weekend. Not sure whether to head to Wright's or X...

Weight last Sunday night was 11st 2lb.

Si
Post edited at 07:28
 AJM 25 Apr 2016
In reply to TonyB:

> AJM I found the Cider Soak conversation pretty interesting. Sounds like a tough but rewarding route.

Cheers Tony. Its really good, quality climbing the whole way.

The week passed, I felt really busy, but I seem not to have that much to write about midweek. But anyway.....

During the week I tried to go biking but failed - stuck in work too late. I did do a whole bunch of stuff on my single speed bike which is a good benchmark (theres no cheating by having different gear ratios) and also a good workout for what I think I've lost which is the "pushing really hard" ability - I can spin pedals just fine but less ability to crank. So thats been hard. I'm slightly off my benchmark segment times from last year on the hills on my way to work but not too badly. Did about 67k in all, mostly on that bike. Got some ideas for hill progressions, building up the amount of hill I can do in that gear ratio.

Climbing wise I did a short wall session on Monday but was basically battered from cider soak so more or less it was short and not that intense. Tuesday/Wednesday (I forget) I did the 3-finger drag max strength test, which came out at 64.9kg instead of the 66.8kg on the 4-finger hang or something like 88% of current bodyweight carried. A lot closer than I had expected actually. Going to try the final set this week, maybe tonight.

Really need to start training properly again - I've been sidetracked with kickstarting the cycling but actually when I get into May I've got more cycling weekends so hopefully can focus on climbing a bit more midweek.

Weekend was a trad weekend with one of my friends.
- Tremadog on Saturday, led Scratch Arete which was nice, seconded Falcon which was tricky. Tried Barbarian but the ungradably-awkwardness of the top crux wasn't the right choice for a trad reintroduction so I sat on gear. I'm trying to think of it as one of those sacrificial routes that you just need to have a go at to get back into the swing of things.
- Sunday was Rhoscolyn. Tom led an E1 to get us going, I was being a bit nervy about the rock (too long away from this Gogarth stuff) so Tom then made a good lead of The Sun, a classic steep E3 corner. Finally after much faff I decided I should get on something and got on Savage Sunbird, an E2. Bold in places and I think the calf-pump-clock made the top wall a bit more sketchy than I would have liked because I felt a bit rushed on the gear. But still, my first E2 since Motorhead/Orco in 2014 so I guess the comeback starts here.....
My legs/calves got sore as expected from standing about for too long but I also got some exercise in my arms as well. So I'm counting it as some low end aerocap.

Busy week this week - out Thursday evening and the van is a bit buggered so low certainty about how early-mid week will look. Possibly (fingers crossed, whisper it, etc) some house moving this weekend but hopefully some climbing too.

> ..... I’ve never been [to wallsend] and always been a bit put off by not understanding when it’s in condition.

At beach level, crisp, low humidity days with sun and a bit of a breeze ideal running along the crag. Don't plan to do much hard until the combination has cleared the sea grease. No place for mambas gets the sun a bit earlier and the different type of rock means it tends to stay clag free. The headwall rock is also absolutely brilliant stuff, really top quality.
 AJM 25 Apr 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Side of the finger could be collateral ligament too?
 Si dH 25 Apr 2016
In reply to AJM:

Make or Break suggests that would be painful on the PIP joint - this doesn't hurt on the joint at all but closer to my hand. :oS
 Si dH 25 Apr 2016
In reply to AJM:

I too got 'Barbarian'd 4 or 5 years ago. It's not one that fingerboarding and wall training really prepares you for
 Ian Bell 25 Apr 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Morning all

STG = keep up training. Get outside and do some 7s at the weekend.
MTG = keep up the training plan
LTG = 7b+ pyramid this year, at least 3x7a+, 2x7b,1x7b+. Done plenty of 7as over the last few years.
BHAG = 8a by 40

A fairly steady week this one, managed all the training days bar Sunday where I had family stuff on instead so not too bad.

Tues- 3 sets of TRX exercises. 30 mins max hangs on fingerboard. Reaching 2x10 secs on some so time to add a bit more weight on those holds. Realized chalk makes a huge difference, not sure how it took this long!

Weds - attempted boulder 4x4. Difficulty maybe a bit high, managed 2.5V4, 2.5V4, 3V3, 2V4. 2x10 mins autobelay at c6a, was knackered.

Thurs - 1.5hrs strength and conditioning

Fri - 4x4 routes. 4x6a, 4x6a+, 4x6b+, 2.5x average 6b+ ish. To failure on the last set so about right I think.

Sat - 2xTRX sets. 1 set of the 7 secs on and 3 secs off fingerboarding.

Fingers crossed the weather forecast improves a bit for the bank holiday.....

 Dandan 25 Apr 2016
In reply to TonyB:

> Dandan82 Sounds like a good week. +45kg 2RM pull up on the BM edges is seriously strong. I would imagine that’s well above what many 8a climbers can do.

Cheers Tony, yep I imagine it's a bit above the curve, but I'll find out for sure in July as I'm booked in for a session on the Lattice Board with Tom. It's mostly for my own curiosity and because I'm a massive stat geek, but I'm keen to see what information and advice I can get from Mr Randall.

A decent week all in, ups and downs but positive overall I think.

M: Cardio circuit x3; I even warmed up with a run to the shops and back! (1 mile) Man I hate running.
T: Indoor Bouldering; 1 hour of problems, flashed v4's and v5's, did 2 V6's second go, although I think I broke one and found a much easier sequence that felt more like v4/5. 2x 20 minute Aero circuits. Elbows felt less battered after the session than they have at any time this year, despite it being quite a hard session, very encouraging.
W: Bodyweight antagonists; Handstand press ups felt strong, handstands were rubbish though. Front lever is coming on.
T: Indoor routes; warmed up and got on a 7b that I had 1 go at previously, intended to have a few goes working it and see how it went. I found myself pulling strongly through the steep crux and onto the pumpy headwall, suddenly visions of glory clouded my vision and I pushed on towards the top, pushing perhaps a little beyond my self imposed limits. I made it to the top clean, which was a real surprise, but I think I did push the elbows just a little hard, especially with the pumpy open hand holds at the top.
I dropped the level a little after that but the ache had already set in, decent session grade wise, 7a, 7b, 7a+, 7a, 6c+, 6c, 6c+, but a bit too much elbow soreness for my liking.
F: Went to see Huffy the Physio, elbows still a little tender. He reckons the tennis elbow is almost completely gone now, along with the nerve entrapment, I just have some brachialis tightness to work out. He also gave me an exercise to directly work the tennis elbow muscle to strengthen it and hopefully further reduce the soreness I get after sessions.
S: Climbing Portland; Beautiful day at Blacknor South, elbows were still sore so I played it safe, the routes are all 25m around there so I think that helped keep the intensity down, did 5, 6a+, 6b+, 6b+, 6c, they all felt reassuringly easy, in fact I can't recall the last time an outdoor 6c felt quite so comfortable, it was a really pleasing result. Possibly less pleasing for the two chaps who were projecting it and let me use their draws...
Mrs Dandan lead her first outdoor 6b+ with ease, which is a big thing, the more I can get her leading, the less ropes I have to put up for her! Based on her improvements in the last few months, I won't be able to touch her projects soon anyway!
S: Fitted my shiny new Moon holds to the board, and couldn't resist trying a couple of problems. I flashed the first 6A and 6A+ on the app, I'd heard the moonboard grades are stiff and they weren't kidding! I imagine I'm going to start having trouble at around 6B+ range, still, gives lots of potential for improvement. I think I'll use the 6A for my laps benchmarking. I really like the holds, good friction but not too abrasive, and some holds are considerably more friendly than I had imagined them to be. Does anyone know the rules for feet on the moonboard? I'm climbing with feet follow hands which I guess is right, if you use feet on any holds I think it would all be a bit easy?
Also finally made a hinge for the campus board so you can now 'flip' it out and secure it against the outside wall of the shed so you can campus in the garden! Won't be much use in the winter but it's better than no board at all.

Last week's STG:
climb 3 times - at least 1 Aerocap - TICK
1 easy fingerboard session - NOPE
5x10 second free handstands _ 3/5 (all in one session)
Set lap problem in bouldershed - TICK

New STG (this week):
Climb 3 times (hopefully 1 outside)
5x10 second free handstands
Benchmark on lap problem in bouldershed
Do assisted 1 arm benchmark on BM

MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - see below
Decide if I'm ready for a proper training plan - Physio says not quite yet
Get outside a couple of times - 1/2
Lap indoor 7a 4 times
Buy/fit moon holds for moonboard - TICK

LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Margalef in October
Tick Bésame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October
Lap indoor 7b 4 times
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds

BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...

Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - 10 seconds on BM2000 bottom middle slot?
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie (not hugely scientific as grades can be subjective)
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between
 Emily 25 Apr 2016
In reply to TonyB:
> Emily Sounds like an awesome day at Wallsend. Were you climbing with Nick?
Thanks Tony. Yes, I usually am, for his sins! Not a particularly great week this week...

Monday - climbing at the Cuttings, Portland. Got ridiculously frustrated, both with the return of my own inability to climb above bolts and with the completely absurd bolting on The Potting Shed (6a). Precarious moves up a corner with a completely unprotected fall onto a big ledge - how exactly is this sport climbing? And then the chains just out of reach from anything remotely resembling a reasonable finishing position. I was angry and threw a stupid tantrum. Sorry Nick / anyone else in the vicinity I don't get on very well with the Cuttings, not sure I've climbed anything actually enjoyable there and it always seems like a shame to be on Portland and hang out so far away from the sea. I guess it gets good in the "real" grades.

Tuesday - running, 10 x (90s fast 3 min jog) plus warmup and cooldown, total 11km in 60:16.

Wednesday - nothing.

Thursday - running, 13km easy in 76:04.

Friday - bouldering at TCA. Flashed some of the new blacks, plus a couple of 6Bs on the mothership wall which is quite good going for me. Went round a bunch of greens (V3-5) trying to find one that might seem even slighly tractable to work on, but no such luck - couldn't do any moves on most of them. There was one that I could mostly string together if I allowed myself a cheating thumb in the bolt hole, but the final move eluded me even then.

Saturday - fun swimming relays preceding swimming club alumni dinner, recent Old Blues vs current team members and (much) less recent Old Blues! Fortunately we at least managed to beat the latter... More butterfly (and certainly more sprinting) than I've done for quite a while, bit of a shock to the system!

Sunday - nothing. Should have run but wasn't feeling very well after the drive back from Cambridge. That's what I get for eating badly all weekend I think.

Goals / progress on them:

Short term (Apr-May)
  • keep weight trending downwards. More actionably: pay attention to food with this in mind
    • down 0.1kg on last week
  • 3 runs/week per my plan for the next few weeks through April
    • no, missed one this week; may try to make it up, I'll see how this week goes
  • stretch my legs every day
    • managed most days again
  • embarrass myself as thoroughly as possible at this weekend's Cambridge alumni-vs-current-team swimming relays. I'm going to get the fly leg aren't I...
    • mission definitely accomplished, and I got plenty of fly legs. Enjoyed this

Medium term (Apr, May, Jun)
  • follow running plan for Bristol 10k
    • 29/36 done, 2 skipped
  • aim for course (and distance) PB at the Bristol 10k, so sub 47:14. Target pace 4:40ish I guess
  • find another local(ish) climb to work on?
  • make some drastically needed improvement to my abysmal attitude in outdoor climbing

Minor miracle level "maybe someday" wishes
  • redpoint something legitimately beginning with 7 indoors?
  • redpoint something beginning with 7 outdoors??
  • lead a VS??? (don't care whether onsight or after seconding a billion times, but this does include placing the gear myself)



Post edited at 09:08
 humptydumpty 25 Apr 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Thanks Si - very useful info. I think I've climbed one overhanging sport route in my life, so I'll definitely be putting some time in at the bouldering wall this week.
OP TonyB 25 Apr 2016
In reply to humptydumpty and Si dH:

I agree with Si that upperbody is probably more important than fingers, but if you only have a few weeks to go I can't imagine anyone seeing meaningful strength gains. I always thought that fitness was the most important thing in Kaly. I would have thought focusing on aeropow would be the most beneficial.
 hms 25 Apr 2016
In reply to TonyB:

thanks Tony. Ankle still has a v painful bit - think I caught the bruise with the rope on one of my many CS falls. Felt wiped out after the weekend on CS so week started very quietly indeed. Left ring finger feeling achy so didn't fingerboard at all this week and did use lots of tape which seemed to help.

M - nothing
T - nothing
W - cycle commute. Tom R core session, then bicept curl & shoulder pushes with 5kg.
T - cycle commute. UCR in evening. Once again, by the time I was nicely warmed up the place was swarming and the hard routes I wanted to try were unavailable. 12 routes in pairs, inc 2 goes at a new 7a with - can do all the moves, but in one place it is a case of move or clip, couldn't do both.
F - UCR. familiar 6a 6b 6c+ 7a circuits to warm up, then new circuits on the steep. 6b was ok, 6c+ had a ceiling move I wasn't going to risk the shoulder on, 7b was v good. Easy roof start, then steep but ok then a tough finish which I coludn't get. Ended up going it in 15 move chunks with short rests. Then 6x min on min off FOC. Finished with 8 min on, 4 min off x 3 on the v familiar 6b circuit - there was someone else where and the 4 mins off was the time it was taking him to read then do the circuit whereas I can swing round it 4 times in 8 mins
S - urban walking 4 miles, pullups, pressups.
S - UCR routes, and it was quiet - hurrah! Husband forgot his kit so I warmed up on circuits whilst he went home for it. Then 6c 6c / 6c 6b / 7a (lunch) 7a OS 7a / 7a+ / 7a / 7a. The 7a OS was definitely tough for the grade so p[leaesd with that. One of the other 7as was the Thurs night one - fresher so went much higher then clipped down, which was rather sketchy.

So after a slow start think I managed to pick up the pace a bit and have a pretty decent week. Nothing outside despite the nice weather but family stuff likely to rule that out for a bit I suspect so concentrating on happy training rather than getting despondant!
OP TonyB 25 Apr 2016
In reply to AJM:

I made the mistake of taking my wife up Babarian a couple of years ago. She had spent the previous days seconding on slate and been doing really well. She wanted to lead the first pitch, which was really poorly protected. I guess you just need to accept that it's easy but bold, however in the end she managed to fiddle in all sorts of poor to mediocre gear. I some how got through the crux on the second pitch, in the end committing to a sequence that I had no idea whether it was sensible enough, but then ended up on a very protracted belay session and a torrent of cursing from below. It's definitely a weird route.
OP TonyB 25 Apr 2016
In reply to Dandan:

We used to have a moonboard at the gym i went to in Helsinki. The rules there were that feet follow hands but could use any of the footholds on the vertical kickboard. I assume that these are the correct rules.
 AJM 25 Apr 2016
In reply to TonyB:

I don't think it's E1, I think it's "gritstone HVS 5b", that strangest of grades which stands aside from the usual grading system in a parallel realm.....
 hokkyokusei 25 Apr 2016
In reply to TonyB:

> Hokkyokusei Great that you can get out on the bike. I hope the shin splints get better soon.

If it wasn't for the bike I'd be going mad, I think. Shin splints still very sore if I try to run.

m - 14.5km cycling
t - 10km cycling
w - 10km cycling
t - pub
f - 10km cycling
s - rest
s - rest

Weight 81.6kg, Body Fat 19.7% very pleased that I'm holding my weight down while not running!
OP TonyB 25 Apr 2016
In reply to TonyB:

In reply to TonyB:

My training has been really structured over the last year, but fell apart this week. It was partly due to travel and a little loss of motivation. It's crazy to be losing motivation as I've put in hard work over the last 6 months and should now reap the benefit, but I'm not motivated for training and really want to spend time actually climbing and doing fun bouldering.

Mon - work travel to Sweden
Tue - back in the UK. Should have done circuits but there was a kid's group in the training room and ended up trying some of the new V5-V6 problems. Got totally drawn into these and never went back to do the circuits. Really enjoyable session but not hitting any of the goals.
Wed - bought new climbing shoes. Rearranged the holds on my home wall. Fun session making some fun moves. I tried to make an unwind move similar to the cidersoak video. No real reason as I have no immediate plans to go to Anstey's, but it looked like a cool move and interesting to replicate. I now have several problems with crossthroughs and undercuts, so could be well placed for Peak lime.
Thur - nothing
Friday - back on the home wall. Reasonable system session, but no continuous climbing. This works really baddly on the home wall as it requires climbing small circles on a relatively small number of jugs.
Sat - nothing
Sun - Embankment in Chee Dale. I climbed Sturgeon in the Cupboard, 7c. It's supposedly soft, but felt technical and fingery after so much indoor climbing. This is the first time that I've done a 7c in a session. I didn't feel pumped and didn't feel badly powered out, I also felt fresh enough to have given it a few more RPs if necessary. It was my first Peak lime trip of the year. I was pretty pleased with the effort.

Goals for this week
Get back on the training schedule and return to following it diligently
Plan to spend two days outside over the bank holiday weekend. Planning for Yorkshire, but to be determined by the weather.

MTG
Find an 8a project to work in the Peak.
Increase time on rock by exploring Leicestershire bouldering options.
 planetmarshall 25 Apr 2016
In reply to TonyB:
> Planetmarshall We all have good and bad weeks. Hope the motivation is comes back.

Cheers, Tony. The motivation is definitely back, but I'm struggling to make my aerobic mileage. This will come back to bite me at some point so need to sort it out.

Mon - Strength and Conditioning (Hypertrophy).
Core warm up.
4 sets. Supersets
Turkish Getup /Wide Pullup (bodyweight)
Ring Dip /Inclined Ring Row
Hang Squat / Dumbbell Military Press
Tue - Climbing at Stanage Popular. Lancashire Wall (HVS 5a), Grotto Wall (HVS 4c)
Wed - Trail Run. 8km.
Thu - Rest
Fri - Strength and Conditioning (Hypertrophy).
Core warmup
4 sets
Side plank and Dumbell raise/Rope pullup (bodyweight)
Box step with barbell/Dumbbell Military Press
Inclined ring row/Resisted Pushup
Sat - Climbing at Stanage North. Electron (VS 5a), The Knutter (HVS 5b)
Sun - AW Sheffield. Failed again on the pink 6b+ (line 93). Got all the moves dialled now, but it's being reset next week so have to get it soon...

STG

Last weeks goals -

* Aerobic. 4h 40m Z1 ( inc 40m Z2 )
Failed. Only managed about an hour. Not really much excuse for this, other than decided to do a bit more climbing htis week.

* Strength and Conditioning. Continue Hypertrophy protocol and move to 4 sets.
Done. This is going pretty well, but need a good rest after these sessions.

* 4 routes at easy-med HVS.
Managed 3. Grotto Wall (HVS 4c), Lancashire Wall (HVS 5a), The Knutter (HVS 5b). Attempted Exodus (HVS 5a) but fell off. Note to self, don't attempt a strenuous crack climb less than 12 hours after a hypertrophy session.

* 1 6b and 1 6b+ if indoor.
So close to getting the 6b.

* Bouldering. Either at the Depot or (preferably) outdoors somewhere.
Nope.

Next week's goals:

* Aerobic. 4h 40m Z1 ( inc 40m Z2 )
* Strength and Conditioning.
** Continue Hypertrophy protocol and add a core session during the week.
** Retest my benchmarks
* Climbing
** 2 routes at med-hard HVS. 1 hard HVS or an easy E1.
** The 6b on line 93 at AW Sheffield. Need to get this done this week or it'll be gone forever!
** Bouldering. Either at the Depot or (preferably) outdoors somewhere.

MTG

Left shoulder rehab.

Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)

LTG

Recovery of left shoulder injury.

Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly

Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)

Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe

Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)

Learn to ski.

BHAG

The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)

Something on El Capitan.
Post edited at 11:09
 Ally Smith 25 Apr 2016
In reply to TonyB:

Thanks Tony - no social engagements with little 'uns this week - but still pretty knackered from work and other activities...

Last/Next week’s goals:
Yoga class – tick – keep at it
Cycle >40miles total – semi-fail ~30miles again
Edit skiing video - fail
3x rehab sessions – 1x only - repeat
1x an-cap - fingerboard, Depot or Cave? – tick - repeat
1x aero-cap - fingerboard, Depot or trad!?! – tick - repeat
2x mental rehearsal of project sequences – tick – repeat
Think about May goals

April goals:
Continued shoulder rehab and core fitness – start yoga class with the lady - TICK
Rehab strange finger tweak – hurts closing car doors, but not crimping - Getting there
2x week an-cap work-outs (inc. crimping an-cap specific to Waterval Boven) - FAIL
LW reverse - TICK (and back again, or trohs efil evac?)
RP the easier Malham potential project - Progress – new high point
Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey – FAIL


Week 17:
M - Depot after work. Long boulders on the comp wall. Did the yellow V8 on pinches after some considerable work (and powering up with a flapjack). Then 3x8min aero-cap on the circuit board @ F6b-ish (low level as felt fairly f*cked from the bouldering).
T - 6am start and 7pm home = long day! Gentle stretching and self massage only.
W - Craig y Longridge after work. Continued skin issues - opened another seg split Good session otherwise, with an old school gnarler showing me some beta. Bunch of V1-5 warm-ups, then worked Mr Skin, V7. RP’d it, and then added the start and high finish to complete “Middle bit” f7c. That’s all the moves done on the 8a+ start to high break, but the “rest” at wobbly block feels pretty un-restful at the moment! Bend to the end next up…
T - Yoga class with the lady. Pretty core intensive class.
F - Meh, I forget – distracted by the announcement my office is due to shut. Likely becoming a home worker?
S - Malham. 4x RP efforts on the project. #1 fumbled the clip and grabbed the draw. #2 – clipped and got first intermediate. #3 – skipped the clip and got 2nd intermediate. #4 skipped and fell going to incut (1.5 moves to jugs). #5 bolx'd the stripped it. 2x retro’d 7a warm-down.
S - Macclesfield ride it – very hilly 29miler. Pub lunch and lazy afternoon.
In reply to TonyB:

Thanks Tony. Nah the username's an old one that I used and wanted to go back to separating business and personal online. A really good week this week! Got out on rock twice and my head is feeling so good at the moment. Better than ever before! Not entirely sure why but I'm just going with the flow and enjoying it. No pressure is a good approach at the moment.

Mon: Rest
Tue: 14 miles MTB ride on road with plenty of hills / Fantastic bouldering session at Churnet. Head is feeling better than it ever has done and I can't quite believe how good I'm feeling. Ticked all of Audio Block except for Bass Belch 6B+ and the top trav. Well chuffed.
Wed: Antags (pushups and high bucket lifts) and mobility drills. Rest.
Thu: Bouldering at The Roaches. Ace evening and climbed well up to V3 (a repeat of Cooper's Traverse).
Fri: Mountain biking at Macc Forest. Ace ride!
Sat: Car stuff & working in the garden
Sun: 3hr walk in the Peak

Aims For This Week:
Mobility drills / antagonists: Most days
Climbing: weekly 3x 2/3
Bike: weekly 3x 2/3
Weight: maintain 140-142 lbs (current: 144.4) + Need to watch this as it's creeping up a bit
Get out on rock. I'm inspired to get on Audio Block (Churnet) TICK twice this week!
Ride a trail on the bike TICK!

STGs (End June 2016):
Complete next XC race of season (May 8)
Purple fr6c in cave Reset
Tick remaining circuit V3/4s 2/?
Too Drunk (f7A)
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2
Complete 1st row on outdoor bouldering pyramid (V2) 0/8 none this week but I did tick about 14 other problems from 5 to 6B, just no V2s (6A/Bs)!
Get on a rope

MTGs (before end 2016):
Spellbound (f7A+)
High Speed Imp Act (f7A)
Sleeping with the Flowers (f7A)
Ousal Low (f7A+)
Low Speed Imp Act (f7B)
Dover's Wall, Route 1 (S 4b)
Dover's Wall, Route 4 (VS 4b)
Ride The Beast at Coed y Brenin (just need to sort a date with mates)

BHAGs:
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b)
A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c)
The Sloth (HVS 5a)
 Dandan 25 Apr 2016
In reply to TonyB:

Ooh, I forgot to mention, good news about routes at Calshot, the parent of a local Junior Team GB member was clearly as miffed as I was about there not being any good hard routes, so they paid Ben West to get down there and set some routes, there is now a decent 7b, 7b+, 7c, 8a and 8a+/b to investigate, and knowing Calshot, they won't get reset any time soon.

Hopefully if I and others make enough noise about how great these new routes are, they might get him back in to set some more...
 cha1n 25 Apr 2016
In reply to Dandan:
I tried the Bristol TCA moonboard for the first time yesterday and was doing "If I used them for my hands at any point, they're available for use for feet" rules, I hope that still counts, otherwise some of the problems would have been really crap.

I think the hold texture is a bit rough, so would consider taping the joint areas with really cheap tape to save skin and the holds are also a bit aggressive on the joints in general. Have woke up today with some of my A4 tendon areas sore from the pressure, they're definitely not pulley injuries. Luckily I'm so bad at this style of climbing that I can't climb on it for very long before getting tired.
Post edited at 12:17
 Dandan 25 Apr 2016
In reply to cha1n:

I checked on the website and it does say 'feet follow hands' at the top of the problem page so that's that sorted.
I currently only have the set B holds, which look considerably larger in general to the original school holds, some of them are pretty friendly. I will be keeping a close eye on my finger tendons though, a new injury is the last thing I need!
When I do a decent session on them i'll keep some tape handy in case it does get a bit abrasive.
 cha1n 25 Apr 2016
In reply to Dandan:

I'm not really sure what 'feet follow hands' really translates to, but I was guessing that it meant if you move a hand, you HAVE to put your foot on that hold next but maybe I'm interpreting it incorrectly. After watching some videos of Ben and others on the moonboards it seems like it's more how I originally thought that you can use any feet that were used for hands (e.g. several hand movements can take place without moving feet if necessary).

The only problem with not following a set hand/foot sequence would be effects on the grade and lets face it, all the grades are off anyway. I'd struggle to suggest a grade for any problems I were to add as I just haven't done much at that angle and in that style. Maybe High Speed Imp Act (f7A) can be my benchmark?!
 Dandan 25 Apr 2016
In reply to cha1n:

Feet follow hands in general just means that if your hand has touched it then it's fair game for your feet, there is no requirement to use the feet in any specific order, that would be incredibly confusing!
 cha1n 25 Apr 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Ah OK, that makes sense. Cheers for clarifying.
 Si dH 25 Apr 2016
In reply to TonyB:

> I agree with Si that upperbody is probably more important than fingers, but if you only have a few weeks to go I can't imagine anyone seeing meaningful strength gains. I always thought that fitness was the most important thing in Kaly. I would have thought focusing on aeropow would be the most beneficial.


True, although I think that bouldering is worth it for 3 weeks just to get more used to climbing on steep ground. You might get a few muscular games too but not tendons.
 Si dH 25 Apr 2016
In reply to TonyB:
>

> My training has been really structured over the last year, but fell apart this week. It was partly due to travel and a little loss of motivation. It's crazy to be losing motivation as I've put in hard work over the last 6 months and should now reap the benefit, but I'm not motivated for training and really want to spend time actually climbing and doing fun bouldering.

I wouldn't worry about this as long as the climbing and bouldering you do is similar style to that which you want to train for. It's important to maximise time on rock to really 'peak' anyway.

> Sun - Embankment in Chee Dale. I climbed Sturgeon in the Cupboard, 7c. It's supposedly soft, but felt technical and fingery after so much indoor climbing. This is the first time that I've done a 7c in a session. I didn't feel pumped and didn't feel badly powered out, I also felt fresh enough to have given it a few more RPs if necessary. It was my first Peak lime trip of the year. I was pretty pleased with the effort.

I don't think it's soft. Not long after I was doing that 7c at the Tor with you I also had a few goes on Sturgeon, and didn't do it. I did Cry of Despair in summer 14 and had several more goes at Sturgeon but still didn't do it. I also found Stone the Loach easier. In total I had 3 or 4 short 'sessions' on Sturgeon (probably 7-8 rp attempts) when climbing up to 7c level in 2014, but never did it. I had an early attempt where I should have done it but fumbled the hold at the end of the traverse left, but on all others I failed moving left from the 2nd (3rd? I forget) bolt. It's true that I totally messed up tactics-wise due to complacency, and subsequently became annoyed with it. But still, it's npt soft in my view.

Good effort.
Post edited at 17:39
 Si dH 25 Apr 2016
In reply to heelhookofglory:



If you go to try that, pleasy please also do 'sideways smash' on the same block - my one and only FA
In reply to Si dH:

Looks good and to be honest, judging by the grade, I'm more likely to get that first as I'm about at 6C/+. 7B is a good way off yet although a goal for this year. A good enough reason to get up there for a go.
 James Moyle 25 Apr 2016
In reply to TonyB:

More DIY weekday evenings getting a deck laid. Still more rubble to shift this week to get the level sorted. Nothing else midweek.
Weekend - Dartmoor

A mixture of running, walking and climbing on the tors

SAT - 27km 500m ascent (15 tors)
Solo - did some easy routes and boudering on Great Mis, Roos, Middle Staple, and Kings Tor. This included two "new" routes. Well lets say unrecorded! At grade Diff, it's quite possible someone has done them before.
SUN - 13km 250m ascent (6 tors)

Really want to get the deck finished so I can concentrate on "proper" exercise and a bit more climbing now the weather seems to be slightly on the up.

Thanks All!
 mattrm 25 Apr 2016
In reply to TonyB:

Thanks for doing the stats. Yeah, the fence is pretty much done. Still have (literally) a ton of rocks and rubble to remove.

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
SMART Goals:
1 core session - tick! (x2)
1 climb - oops....

Weight - 13st (OMG!)

M - F - Misc fencing and stuff
S - 100 dish tucks
S - 100 dish tucks

God I'm getting fat(ter). Need to work on that. Started back with the dish tucks. Still been tidying the garden and doing the last few bits of fencing this week. Arranged a climbing session for next week. So it's going in the right direction.

Next week:
3 core session
1 climb
1 run
 biscuit 25 Apr 2016
In reply to TonyB:

Cheers Tony.

Not a bad week thanks. Not on track according to training plan but you can't have everything.

I'm aware I've been whinging a lot of late but I use this as a tool to look back on, I don't keep much of a paper training diary so I need it to look at and see why things did/didn't work. So skip the whingy bit coming up if you want.

On top of my already fairly full schedule ive now got to move house by 20th May. Landlord gave notice last week. So got to pack up and move a 4 bed house on top of assignments, two jobs, college and kids. Finding one that will take two dogs and a cat will be challenging.

Anyway onto the positives. Went away in my van this weekend

Went to the peak and had a rained off day at Burbage South (don't think i'll bother going again) and a rain/snow/hailed off day at Plantation. Not very imaginative spots to go but not really been before so went for the honey pots. Forgot a pair of my shoes so ended up with only my dragons. Not ideal for slabby problems so maybe that's why I didn't get on with Burbage South. Fell off lots of stuff I feel I should have got. Plantation was very nice, apart from the weather. Flashed up to 6b+ and got all the moves on Green Traverse. No chance to try anything more than start to crux (done) and from there to end (done) as by then I couldn't feel my fingers and holds were wet. Looking forward to more trips away in the van.

Also got an aerocap session in. 2 x 20min on autobelay at 6b. Usually I lower off but I went for climbing down as well to add to the boredom.

Tried a cycle commute to work. Won't be doing that again in a hurry. 22miles each way, aerocap session, work, then a ride back at 10pm. Not that much fun especially as the ride was through Manchester on terrible roads (condition and traffic wise).

Did well at physio again so slowly getting towards discharge in another couple of appts hopefully.

This weeks targets:

Survive the week on very little sleep.
2 x fingerboard before I have to take it down to move
1 x aerocap go for 3 x 20 at 6b
That will probably be it.

Have to admit it's not looking great for doing anything much before end of May but i'll keep plugging away. I've nearly given up a couple of times and been proved wrong about what you can fit in so I'm not giving up now.
 Nick Russell 26 Apr 2016
In reply to TonyB:
> Nick Russell I was interested to hear you’d been on Wallsend. I’ve never been there and always been a bit put off by not understanding when it’s in condition. Congrats on the 7a+ flash.

Wallsend is definitely worth a visit, but I probably shouldn't advocate it too strongly - I like that it doesn't get as busy as many other crags on the island!

M - Portland, Cuttings (see last week)
T - Rest
W - Nothing. (Work social at Airhop trampoline centre. Tiring and fun, but not training!)
T - Fingerboard, repeaters. Decided to focus more on keeping decent form during the hangs, which makes it a lot harder!
F - Core
S - Swimming 'comedy' relays. Surprised I could still make it to 50m, and our team didn't lose everything! I'll count that as a success
S - Fingerboard. Well, not much. Worth it more for the stetching etc. that I did after a day mostly spent sat in the car.

STG
  • Sub 40 in Bristol 10k. 3 weeks to go. I'll reserve judgement on likelihood of this until I've done a couple more runs.
  • Get on Paradise Lost (7b). I've been talking about this for years! I think now is the time to have a go, before the restrictions come in in July.

    MTG
  • Keep the pressure on the E4s. Still have to get on Central Wall (E4 6a), Star Wars (E4 5c), Mother Africa (E4 6a), Pacemaker (E5 6a), ...
  • Sub 90 in Bristol half (September)

    LTG
  • varied E5 onsights
  • Get out to Orkney with The Fox
  • Snowdonia marathon. I'll be up at midnight next New Year!

    BHAG
  • The Long Hope Route
  •  alexm198 26 Apr 2016
    In reply to TonyB:

    Cheers for doing the stats Tony! Yep quite psyched to gun for 7a, hopefully not too ambitious. Thanks to all for their input last week.

    Another question for you all... Good cheap sport climbing destinations that are hot and by the beach? My girlfriend is keen to come along and lie in the sun. Kalymnos is perhaps the obvious choice but seems quite pricey. Any alternatives?

    Last week:

    M: 2 hours down the Arch. More pinks/greens, haven't done them all but feeling much stronger on them at the moment. Worked a few purple/yellows too. Finished off with bm2k easy slopers: 3x10s hangs and then 5x pullups. Elbows have started to feel a bit tweaky because I've ramped the mileage up too fast. Did 3x10 pushups and have been doing this every night since.
    T: Rest + 3x10 pushups
    W: Rest + 3x10 pushups
    T: 2 hours down the Arch, got some more of the purple and yellows and spent a while working one of the reds. Managed to link a few of the moves which I was pleased with. 3x10s hangs on the easy bm2k slopers plus 1x10s hang on the 2nd slopers (35deg?)
    F: Rest
    S: Baggy Point, arrived at about 12pm and managed to get 6 routes done including Lost Horizon and Midnight Cowboy which were great. Pleased to O/S an HVS on my first day cragging in 2016. All in the head ey.
    S: Vicarage Cliff. 5 routes done thanks to a smaller tidal window, but another HVS O/S which was good. Felt really solid on everything which I think bodes well for pushing my trad grade this year.

    Last week:
    - 2 sessions at the wall tick
    - 1 run nope
    - Get out on the weekend (binned off going to the alps as the weather is absolute balls). tick

    STG this week:
    - continue elbow rehab, 3x10 pushups and 50 weighted wrist rotations on each side each night.
    - no wall sessions, don't risk getting injured
    - get out to the alps if weather holds for the bank holiday.
     biscuit 26 Apr 2016
    In reply to TonyB:

    I forgot to add to my original post that i'm now down to 150lbs and 12% fat. Started at 157lbs and 15% fat so all good. Target is 147 so not far to go.
     Si dH 27 Apr 2016
    In reply to alexm198:

    Kaly is great because it has nice beach, weather, and as a climber they really spoil you rather than treat you as a dirtbag. It is very cheap once you have got there but obviously yes flights do cost more. For cheaper flights your only options really are France or Spain. Provence in summer would be nice, or most Spanish destinations in spring/autumn - but the ones I have been to arent truely beach-side - you'd need to spend a few days climbing then a few days by the beach, or do a lot of driving. There are quite a few places I haven't been to though so someone might have a good idea. Another thing just to consider is that there are lots of crags near more inland tourist attractions - culture, sights, cities etc - that could be combined with climbing.
     Dandan 27 Apr 2016
    In reply to alexm198:

    I'm trying to convince Mrs Dandan that a week in Kalymnos in the summer is a good idea, so that would be my recommendation.
    Alternatively, we nearly booked a holiday to Positano in Italy last year but it seemed that the weather tended to decline by the time we wanted to go (mid October) so it might be ideal for the summer?
     AJM 27 Apr 2016
    In reply to alexm198:

    You could look into Sardinia, Sicily etc - I've been to Sardinia once years ago and theres definitely the possibility for climbing and beaches in proximity. I wouldn't rate the climbing over Kalymnos mind you. Or theres that place in Turkey thats by the beach (Olympus?) but I expect that would be as expensive as Kaly.

    I've climbed at places like Chateauvert, Gorges du Loup, etc in the south of france and those are an hour or so from the beach and are very good but thats hardly beachside. The Monaco crags would be pretty close but I can't remember if there are any shady ones that would be in decent nick.....
     0.5viking 29 Apr 2016
    In reply to TonyB:

    Thanks for doing the stats Tony! The grades sound more impressive than they are, most fitclubbers climb harder. I put French grades in brackets for you to relate to difficulty.

    Weight: 72.0kg
    M: rest
    T: light running interval and light antagonist training.
    W: climbing outdoors, warmed up by toproping a 6+ (f6b) until I came to a really loose block and didn’t want to crush my belayer, so let go, then went for a 7 (f6c) on toprope as further warmup, which I did all the moves off. Then decided to make it my days project to redpoint the 7. First try I screwed it up at the start, which left me pumped halfway up. Second try I was little over halfway and made move with my foot which left me in a position that I couldn’t reach the next hold and couldn’t downclimb either. Third try I was already too pumped so was just going up to strip the draws. Went bouldering outdoors with the kids coaching in the evening, repeated 5C, 6A, 6A+ and 6A+/B, couldn’t repeat the 6B+ I’d done there previously.
    T: running, antagonists and (very) little core.
    F: climbing outdoors, did a trad 5 (f5b) os, then a trad 5+ (f5c) second go and failed miserably on two 7-s (f6b+).
    S: rest
    S: climbing outdoors, tried to warm up by toproping a 6 (f6a+), which was a very technical corner, think I fell 5 times. Then did Wednesdays 7 first try and worked the moves on a 7+ (f7a), which I feel should go next try.
    In reply to TonyB:

    Thanks Tony. I've been resisting posting as have had worst week of training in ages - post holiday crash/jet lag/getting back to work so not entirely motivated. However this week has been better so will be better posting tomorrow!

    M - coaching. Fingerboard/conditioning.
    T - 1 hour lower limb rehab class at the hospital - essentially circuits on strength, balance and instability. I beat the two old men and two middle aged women. Not sure they knew it was a competition but...
    W - rest. felt really ropey after yesterday's class. The instability stuff had given me rotations I haven't done yet so I guess it takes some getting used to.
    T - rest. Sports massage.
    F - CapPow/campus/1on2off
    S - walk with mum
    S - rest (family stuff)

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