In reply to TonyB:
> Dandan82 Sounds like a good week. +45kg 2RM pull up on the BM edges is seriously strong. I would imagine that’s well above what many 8a climbers can do.
Cheers Tony, yep I imagine it's a bit above the curve, but I'll find out for sure in July as I'm booked in for a session on the Lattice Board with Tom. It's mostly for my own curiosity and because I'm a massive stat geek, but I'm keen to see what information and advice I can get from Mr Randall.
A decent week all in, ups and downs but positive overall I think.
M: Cardio circuit x3; I even warmed up with a run to the shops and back! (1 mile) Man I hate running.
T: Indoor Bouldering; 1 hour of problems, flashed v4's and v5's, did 2 V6's second go, although I think I broke one and found a much easier sequence that felt more like v4/5. 2x 20 minute Aero circuits. Elbows felt less battered after the session than they have at any time this year, despite it being quite a hard session, very encouraging.
W: Bodyweight antagonists; Handstand press ups felt strong, handstands were rubbish though. Front lever is coming on.
T: Indoor routes; warmed up and got on a 7b that I had 1 go at previously, intended to have a few goes working it and see how it went. I found myself pulling strongly through the steep crux and onto the pumpy headwall, suddenly visions of glory clouded my vision and I pushed on towards the top, pushing perhaps a little beyond my self imposed limits. I made it to the top clean, which was a real surprise, but I think I did push the elbows just a little hard, especially with the pumpy open hand holds at the top.
I dropped the level a little after that but the ache had already set in, decent session grade wise, 7a, 7b, 7a+, 7a, 6c+, 6c, 6c+, but a bit too much elbow soreness for my liking.
F: Went to see Huffy the Physio, elbows still a little tender. He reckons the tennis elbow is almost completely gone now, along with the nerve entrapment, I just have some brachialis tightness to work out. He also gave me an exercise to directly work the tennis elbow muscle to strengthen it and hopefully further reduce the soreness I get after sessions.
S: Climbing Portland; Beautiful day at Blacknor South, elbows were still sore so I played it safe, the routes are all 25m around there so I think that helped keep the intensity down, did 5, 6a+, 6b+, 6b+, 6c, they all felt reassuringly easy, in fact I can't recall the last time an outdoor 6c felt quite so comfortable, it was a really pleasing result. Possibly less pleasing for the two chaps who were projecting it and let me use their draws...
Mrs Dandan lead her first outdoor 6b+ with ease, which is a big thing, the more I can get her leading, the less ropes I have to put up for her! Based on her improvements in the last few months, I won't be able to touch her projects soon anyway!
S: Fitted my shiny new Moon holds to the board, and couldn't resist trying a couple of problems. I flashed the first 6A and 6A+ on the app, I'd heard the moonboard grades are stiff and they weren't kidding! I imagine I'm going to start having trouble at around 6B+ range, still, gives lots of potential for improvement. I think I'll use the 6A for my laps benchmarking. I really like the holds, good friction but not too abrasive, and some holds are considerably more friendly than I had imagined them to be. Does anyone know the rules for feet on the moonboard? I'm climbing with feet follow hands which I guess is right, if you use feet on any holds I think it would all be a bit easy?
Also finally made a hinge for the campus board so you can now 'flip' it out and secure it against the outside wall of the shed so you can campus in the garden! Won't be much use in the winter but it's better than no board at all.
Last week's STG:
climb 3 times - at least 1 Aerocap - TICK
1 easy fingerboard session - NOPE
5x10 second free handstands _ 3/5 (all in one session)
Set lap problem in bouldershed - TICK
New STG (this week):
Climb 3 times (hopefully 1 outside)
5x10 second free handstands
Benchmark on lap problem in bouldershed
Do assisted 1 arm benchmark on BM
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - see below
Decide if I'm ready for a proper training plan - Physio says not quite yet
Get outside a couple of times - 1/2
Lap indoor 7a 4 times
Buy/fit moon holds for moonboard - TICK
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Margalef in October
Tick Bésame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October
Lap indoor 7b 4 times
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - 10 seconds on BM2000 bottom middle slot?
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie (not hugely scientific as grades can be subjective)
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between