UKC

I'm a big fan of his and obviously know what alpine routes hes climbed from reading his books.

But I was wondering how hard he climbs on rock? most of his routes seem to contain lots of aid.

In reply to Pkrynicki1984: 8b+

In reply to smithaldo:

Where have you got that from?

In reply to Pkrynicki1984:

I've tweeted Andy a link to this so hopefully he'll be along to answer it, unless he's too busy aiding up an A5 route on El cap.

In reply to higherclimbingwales:

Depends on how much climbing I've been doing! I always say I'm a 5b climber and have been since I was 15, climbing up to E3 or 5.10ish. Hardest trad route was an E4 so maybe I'm pretty crap, but to honest I've never put that much time into trad climbing... I just enjoy climbing. I guess seeing as I've done ED2/3's, Scottish 8, A5, WI6.... and 5b maybe that makes me the worlds worst allrounder!!!!!

In reply to Pkrynicki1984:

A pointless question in some ways. It's like 'I want a new camera, what should I get?' sort of thing. The grade you climb is what you do on the day. We all have good and bad days. Somedays we really do fly...!

In reply to andy kirkpatrick:

I thought 5.10 was more like e1? Wouldn't e3 be more around 5.11b? I hope so otherwise about to have a really shit time in Yosemite

In reply to Kemics:

Some 5.10's can be E3's or E4's, it's always hard to judge, and for Yosemite the grades can be stiff unless you know how to climbs cracks well (or granite slabs). I'd always say to start low and work up (or and always carry two sets of cams!)

In reply to Pkrynicki1984:

Was going to say that it doesn't matter, as the best climber is the one having the most fun.
However, it's Andy Kirkpatrick and he seems to delight in being cold, wet and miserable...

In reply to Pkrynicki1984:

Does it matter You could have said the same about Alex McIntyre

In reply to rocksol:
Alex was actually quite good on rock.

OP E3 5b is a grade that reflects quite well, the sort of commitment a bold and sustained, poorly protected winter climb could throw at you (eg. on the Ben) i have known quite a few good winter climbers, who could operate at this grade, but considered themselves rubbish rock climbers, myself included. But then winter climbing/Alpinism was there bag.

In reply to andy kirkpatrick:

I'd say it makes you a pretty awesome all rounder!

In reply to Pkrynicki1984:


He doesn't have to show off, these days the rock leans back as he approaches.

In reply to andy kirkpatrick:
I'd always say to start low and work up


priceless advice from my hero!

sorry, it was a gift.

In reply to Kemics:

If you go expecting 5.10 to be e1, you are in for one hell of a time!

E1 in yosemite is 5.9 generally (but there are E2 and E3 5.9s)

In reply to ashtond6:

Lol it took me 30 mins to put my ledge up in the garden. I realise I'm going to be a massive punter! But thanks for that, 5.9 = e1 + is a good bench mark

In reply to Kemics:

I climbed Braille book (5.8) a few weeks after Left Wall and couldn't believe how hard the former felt.

In reply to FactorXXX:

Sounds like type 2 fun.

In reply to MikeSP:

There's Type 1 fun, Type 2 fun, and Type AK fun

(all hail)

In reply to Darron:

I remember being told that routes on the Sentinel side of the valley were a good grade harder than those on El Cap side. Utter bobbins, of course, as I squirmed up routes on either side in a similarly terrible style. BB is a beautiful route though.

In reply to Kemics:


If being hopelessly and consistently sandbagged constitutes a shit time, then yes,
definitely.

In reply to Andy Clarke1965:

Not compared to his Alpine contempories e.g. Nick Colton, Al Rouse, Arab Carrington etc etc

In reply to rocksol:


Arab Carrington? A top climber from Wadi Rum perhaps...

In reply to Sean Kelly:

What was his mates' name again, Phil Burka?

In reply to rocksol:
I think you are wrong there, read Brick edge cruiser!

PS i may be wrong, but thought he was pretty handy on rock for an Alpinist? E4/E5?

In reply to Andy Clarke1965:

Hmm... when I saw him, he was, let's say, pretty average on rock and not remotely comparable with the three whom Rocksol has mentioned.

This in no way detracts from his stature as a 'super-Alpinist', i.e. one taking Alpinism into the greater ranges.

A wonderful talent, taken from us at far too young an age.

Mick

P.S. Perhaps a comparable example is Mick Geddes, apparently average on rock but a very good ice climber and Mr Cool himself when it came to the big grip.

In reply to Mick Ward:

Stand corrected, the generation before mine, just always imagined him to be very good on rock, a really inspiring climber, the first Alpine style ascent of the Harlin on the Eiger in 76", this route is considered nails now and never repeated.

In reply to Andy Clarke1965:


It was (iirc) soloed by Charlie Fowler in c.1990/91.

In reply to Andy Clarke1965:

Alex's partner on the EIger direct was Tobin Sorenson who was very good on on rock, and they aided some parts (not sure how much aid they used). There's been a few repeats including one a couple of years ago by Robert Jasper and Roger Schaeli which was claimed as the first free ascent but they didn't climb the original finish, 'escaping' into the White Spider & the 1938 route.

In reply to Darron:
That makes me smile - 5.8 off widths in Yosemite are nails.

In reply to Mick Ward:

I climbed with Alex before he went to university and he didn't tear down any trees!

Unbelievable stamina, courage, enthusiasm and commitment though. Maybe that's where I went wrong....

In reply to Rob Exile Ward:


Hey, it's where we all went wrong!

So it goes...

Mick