In reply to Dandan:
Thanks me, another good week and yes, I did get two more benchmarks done, which went surprisingly well.
M: Fingerboard 10 sec one arm assisted hangs on 4 finger open crimp and bodyweight antagonists. The handstands have gone out the window again, I hope they start improving soon!
T: Indoor boulder; did boulder link ups using routes up to v4, really intense and really hard, very enjoyable. Also had a few goes on my partners project route that he made up, probably around V8? It's way beyond me currently, he is one move from doing it.
W: Gym; trying to get my workmate back to the gym so I said I'd go with him. Did a variety, bench, deadlift, dips, bit of cardio. The deadlift was really tough, I ached all over afterwards but surprisingly not in my lower back where it felt most intense. I'd like to do them again as it's a good whole body/core antag exercise.
T: Indoor routes; went for reps of 4 with only the time it takes to lower as a rest to get my benchmark, did 4x6c comfortably, then somehow just managed 4x7a! It was a massive fight but I managed it, i'm really pleased as there are easier 7a's on the wall that I could have used, this one is solid at the grade. did 2x6c/2x7a on the same line for the 3rd set then called it a day.
F: One arm hang benchmark; stupidly I did it on the wrong hold, I used the large slot on the outside edge of the BM2000, I had intended to use the lower centre slot which is smaller! Ah well, perhaps I will re-do it next week. Managed 10s hang with +2.5kg on the large outer slot, a drastic improvement on a few weeks ago already, I have lost a little weight though
S: Fingerboard, 10 sec one arm assisted hangs. Also split a pile of free wood that I got on Friday, nothing better than free wood!
S: Portland; Blacknor South, was really keen for this, hoping to maybe get 4 7's in a day, but my elbows complained again so while I'm annoyed that I cut the climbing short, i'm also very pleased that I had the sense to cut the climbing short. Did 4, 5, 6b+, 7a all onsight.
On the plus side, Mrs Dandan ticked her first ever clean 7a!
Last Rose of Summer (7a) Only took her 2 goes too! It was on second, but the leading is making good progress too, i'm very proud.
On the subject of climbing outside more often to help with the big ticks, we've decided to book a week in Kaly in August, really excited! I'm not concerned about the temps, we will climb early and chill on the beach in the afternoon, (it worked in September) plus who needs crisp conditions for overhanging jug fests? I'm going to get on
Daniboy (8a) which I should have done last time. We have the funds and the free time so I thought to hell with it, lets go away again.
Last weeks STG:
Climb 3 times (hopefully 1 outside) TICK
5x10 second free handstands 0/5 rubbish!
Benchmark on lap problem in bouldershed NOPE
Do assisted 1 arm benchmark on BM - TICK
New STG (next week):
Climb 3 times (hopefully 1 outside)
5x10 second free handstands
Benchmark on lap problem in bouldershed
Repeat 4x7a laps
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - see below
Decide if I'm ready for a proper training plan - Physio says not quite yet
Get outside a couple of times - 2/2 - i'll keep going with this one
Lap indoor 7a 4 times - TICK
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October
Tick Bésame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Lap indoor 7b 4 times
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between