UKC

UKC FitClub week 476

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 Dandan 01 May 2016
Placeholder, stats to come this afternoon cos I'm off to Portland while the sun is still shining!
In reply to Dandan:

Cheers Dan.
A good climbing week but only one bike session. Happy and satisfied though so it's all good. Back on the tatami (Brazilian Jiu Jitsu) next week too after a foot injury saw me missing classes since early Feb.

Mon: Rest
Tue: MTB: Early morning 12 mile MTB on road, hill work and steady cadence.
Wed: Indoor bouldering, morning session. Felt good and strong, flashed up to around V3 in the cave as well as a 6b+ onsight route across the roof of the cave.
Thu: Rest
Fri: Rest
Sat: Bouldering indoor. Ace session. Started off slow as it was full of screaming kids (obviously having fun!). Warmed up and spent most of the session in the cave. Got the orange V3/4 that I missed out on last session (jump for last hold) and worked others around V4 level. Really happy with current level.
Sun: Indoor bouldering later.

Aims For This Week:
Mobility drills / antagonists: Most days
Climbing: weekly 2-3x 3
BJJ: weekly 2-3x 0
Weight: maintain max of 143 lbs (65 kg) 144.3 +
Get out on rock again. Too wet
Ride a trail on the bike. Fail but rode on road
Get on a rope. Too wet

STGs (End June 2016):
Complete Mids XC round 3 at Harlow (May 8)
Tick remaining indoor circuit V3/4s 2/?
Too Drunk (f7A)
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2
Complete 1st row on outdoor bouldering pyramid (Font 6C/+) 2/8 Changed this to be more challenging and in-line with goals

MTGs (before end 2016):
Get total trad routes up to 100 (lead, second, repeat or solo) 34/100
Sleeping with the Flowers (f7A)
Spellbound (f7A+)
High Speed Imp Act (f7A)
Ousal Low (f7A+)
Low Speed Imp Act (f7B)
Dover's Wall, Route 1 (S 4b)
Dover's Wall, Route 4 (VS 4b)
Ride The Beast at Coed y Brenin (just need to sort a date with mates)

BHAGs:
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b)
A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c)
The Sloth (HVS 5a)
OP Dandan 01 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Happy bank holiday FitClubbers! Hope the weather has been kind to you, I know it’s been ridiculously unpredictable recently.

Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=640221
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Psyche video of the week youtube.com/watch?v=1yxzgRx8qvo&
I’ve been hooked on the World Cup rounds this year, it’s always more involving when a Brit is doing well but i’ve had sweaty fingertips watching these every weekend! I was hoping there would be a link to the semis or finals by now but this just a Quali roundup, hopefully more videos on this channel soon.

Tyler: I’m with the Moose on this one, that is a pretty intense ‘easy’ week!
JayK: Did you get to LPT? Hope your leg hasn’t fallen off…
humptydumpty: Some good advice for you last week, I hope you get yourself in good health before Kaly. How’s the Clockwork Orange?
Si dH: Is the finger any better, or have you even worked out what the issue is? Are wall slides where you keep your shoulder blades and elbows and knuckles in contact with the wall and raise your arms? If so i’m in agreement with how hard they are!
AJM: Are you planning to get more trad mileage in this year? Any urge to do some high E numbers?
Ian Bell: Looks like a nice solid week of training, you should be completing slightly more of the reps on boulder 4x4 so maybe drop it but don’t be suprised if you need to up the difficulty pretty quickly, especially if you’ve just started doing them. Any more luck getting outside this weekend?
Dandan82: Any more benchmarks to prove you really don’t need to be working on strength…?
Emily: The Cuttings is certainly an acquired taste, but you’re right, it does get better in the higher grades. The bottom deckio has some actually ok, longish low 6’s that are bolted a little more pleasantly.
hms: good chunk of volume in there, I definitely agree that if training is not enjoyable (even if it is type 2 fun sometimes) then it’s probably not worth doing.
hokkyokusei: More sanity-saving cycling this week?
TonyB: Well done on 7c in a session! Did you get back on the training wagon or have you succumbed to climbing whatever you fancy? There’s upsides to either I reckon.
planetmarshall: That looks like a huge volume of aero to me, is it a realistic goal? How is the shoulder?
Ally Smith: Is homeworking a good or a bad thing do you think? Fingers crossed it works out for you.
heelhookofglory: Nice looking week, has the psyche continued to be high?
James Moyle: 21 tors? Blimey. Don’t knock DIY as good exercise, I spend longer recovering from a hard session of home improvement than I do recovering from climbing!
mattrm: Hows that ton of rubble looking? I must google ‘dish tucks’...
biscuit: Moving house is such a disruption, don’t get too demotivated if your training/climbing suffers a little, hopefully it will all be done and dusted quickly.
Nick Russell: How was the trampoline place? There’s one just opposite a local wall and thought it could be an interesting additional activity…
Alexm198: Keep an eye on those elbows, if you find a regimen that fixes them, keep doing it once they are better, trust me!
0.5viking: Dont belittle your climbing, if you are doing UIAA grades then you get a raw deal with the exchange rate, those equivalent grades are hard!
Just Tintin: Come on then, tell all about your better week!
 Si dH 01 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Cheers Dan, no change to the left index finger, still just as bad but it doesn't hurt while climbing, so I've just got on with stuff. Big day yesterday though has resulted in some form of tweak in my right middle finger too (and a little shoulder aggravation), so I'm resting today.
Will report properly later on.
Si
 AJM 01 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

> AJM: Are you planning to get more trad mileage in this year? Any urge to do some high E numbers?

Yes, I'd like to get back into trad properly again - I had a good year for trad in 2013 and did some E4s, but then the van trip in 2014 was mainly sport ad in 2015 I just didn't climb very much so I'd like to get back to that level again and try for E5. Thats the plan, at least.

STG - by 14th August
- continue bouldering - have some ideas for evening projects to work on
- at least one more weekend in this period on The Cider Soak (8a) - do all the moves and improve links. Not sure when to devote solid time to this one yet. <done all the moves and some links. Still not sure when I'm getting back on it>
- local things to look at - Hall of Mirrors (7c), Nightmare Scenario (7c), maybe Fighting Torque (8a) and Fuel My Fire (8a+), and some harder west coast 7s (Tennessee (7c), Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) etc)
- get the regular weight logging back on track and manage the weight - not a peak period so aim is to keep things steady and aim to be hitting peak weight by the end of the period
- lots of trad leading to solid performances at Burren (July) and Wendenstock (August)
- solid indoor base training
- Dragon Tour & Cobbled Classic end of May and start of June

MTG - 2016
- get on Infinite Gravity (8a+). Also try Fuel My Fire (8a+), The Cider Soak (8a), and some harder west coast 7s (Tennessee (7c), Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) etc)
- maybe some onsighting if I can get a trip together
- get trad mojo back, get more E4s done, try to break into E5
- another adventure trip, back to wendenstock perhaps
- build on dws - swanage and Devon classics, push the boat out at lulworth.
- buy a house, do the Dragon Tour, other non climbing goals. <Kerching - bought the house>

BHAG
- its been in the back of my mind for a while, and its a monstrous step from where I am now, but Tom Et Je Ris (8b+). Its probably even further away than 8a was when I started thinking about 8a, but you gotta try, right?
- single pitch E6, big adventure E5s and all the adventures that would bring (alps etc)

During the week - can't really remember days. I stayed on the single speed on the bike and clocked up about 70km, including some hillier bits and some PBs.Climbing wise I did 2 things I think:
- Worked on some replica problems for cider soak on my wall session.
- Did the forced crimp assisted 1-arm stuff. Weight was a bit lower at 73.4kg for this one. Weight pulled was 65.8kg which translates to almost exactly 90% bodyweight. The results for all three are therefore 66.8kg for the chisel, 64.9kg for the 3-finger drag, and 65.8kg for the forced half crimp. Based on bodyweight of 73.4kg, thats 91%, 88% and 90% respectively. Coach seems pleased with the evenness of results and strength work is to continue.

Big news for the week was completing on the house, which is a MTG complete and offers the opportunity for much physical training (moving!).

Weekend - Finale Groove at Swanage on Saturday, plus got hailed on. Should have waited it out potentially as others got stuff done later on but we both got our stuff quite wet and so we went and moved a load of stuff into the new place. Today we went to Dancing Ledge, did a few routes to 6b+, got a bit of a pump on (short awkward nasties), and are going to do another van load of moving tonight. Tomorrow is going to be a big day of moving, lots of hard work coming up!
OP Dandan 01 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks me, another good week and yes, I did get two more benchmarks done, which went surprisingly well.

M: Fingerboard 10 sec one arm assisted hangs on 4 finger open crimp and bodyweight antagonists. The handstands have gone out the window again, I hope they start improving soon!
T: Indoor boulder; did boulder link ups using routes up to v4, really intense and really hard, very enjoyable. Also had a few goes on my partners project route that he made up, probably around V8? It's way beyond me currently, he is one move from doing it.
W: Gym; trying to get my workmate back to the gym so I said I'd go with him. Did a variety, bench, deadlift, dips, bit of cardio. The deadlift was really tough, I ached all over afterwards but surprisingly not in my lower back where it felt most intense. I'd like to do them again as it's a good whole body/core antag exercise.
T: Indoor routes; went for reps of 4 with only the time it takes to lower as a rest to get my benchmark, did 4x6c comfortably, then somehow just managed 4x7a! It was a massive fight but I managed it, i'm really pleased as there are easier 7a's on the wall that I could have used, this one is solid at the grade. did 2x6c/2x7a on the same line for the 3rd set then called it a day.
F: One arm hang benchmark; stupidly I did it on the wrong hold, I used the large slot on the outside edge of the BM2000, I had intended to use the lower centre slot which is smaller! Ah well, perhaps I will re-do it next week. Managed 10s hang with +2.5kg on the large outer slot, a drastic improvement on a few weeks ago already, I have lost a little weight though
S: Fingerboard, 10 sec one arm assisted hangs. Also split a pile of free wood that I got on Friday, nothing better than free wood!
S: Portland; Blacknor South, was really keen for this, hoping to maybe get 4 7's in a day, but my elbows complained again so while I'm annoyed that I cut the climbing short, i'm also very pleased that I had the sense to cut the climbing short. Did 4, 5, 6b+, 7a all onsight.
On the plus side, Mrs Dandan ticked her first ever clean 7a! Last Rose of Summer (7a) Only took her 2 goes too! It was on second, but the leading is making good progress too, i'm very proud.

On the subject of climbing outside more often to help with the big ticks, we've decided to book a week in Kaly in August, really excited! I'm not concerned about the temps, we will climb early and chill on the beach in the afternoon, (it worked in September) plus who needs crisp conditions for overhanging jug fests? I'm going to get on Daniboy (8a) which I should have done last time. We have the funds and the free time so I thought to hell with it, lets go away again.

Last weeks STG:
Climb 3 times (hopefully 1 outside) TICK
5x10 second free handstands 0/5 rubbish!
Benchmark on lap problem in bouldershed NOPE
Do assisted 1 arm benchmark on BM - TICK

New STG (next week):
Climb 3 times (hopefully 1 outside)
5x10 second free handstands
Benchmark on lap problem in bouldershed
Repeat 4x7a laps

MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - see below
Decide if I'm ready for a proper training plan - Physio says not quite yet
Get outside a couple of times - 2/2 - i'll keep going with this one
Lap indoor 7a 4 times - TICK


LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October
Tick Bésame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Lap indoor 7b 4 times
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds

BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...

Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between
 hms 01 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dan. Once again a fairly decent volume week although I seem to have a variety of niggles so haven't always pushed as hard as I wanted. With a big trip 2 months away an injury now would be disasterous. I'm pretty sure everything is just niggles with the exception of the knuckle on my left ring finger which hasn't been right for several weeks now. Taping it does help, but I certainly wouldn't go near the 7b ultra-crimpy woodie circuit at the moment.

M - cycle commute.
T - cycle commute. Fingerboard, lots of 7/3/6/2 to warmup then 6 lots of 10/3/4/3
W - cycle commute. UCR circuits, in pairs when people were around, 1on 1 off when I could chose my own timing. 15 circuits including a lot of the 7a (blobby) and very few of the nails hard 6c+ (thin pinches)
T - core.
F - Ben session. Warmed up on circuits then 6b+ 6c 7a, then had long clip to clip goes on a 7c and a 7b+. Worked hard!
S - UCR routes. Everything felt tough so suspect yesterday's trying hard had taken its toll a bit. Tried the only 7b in UCR - big moves between slopey blobs, not good. Husband packed up early so then I turned it into a bit more of a bulk session. 14 routes in all.
S - Fingerboard, pullups, bicep curls

Husband is now away in the US so it will be circuits and bouldering not routes this week.
 Si dH 01 May 2016
In reply to Si dH:
Dan - wall slides. Basically that exercise but how Dave Mc describes them in Make or Break is to raise your arms above ypur head and get your forearms as close to the wall as possible, then hold for 10seconds before lowering against the wall to a position with your upper arms horizontal.

STGs (next 1-2 months):
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Wright's Traverse (f7B)
- Moffatrocity (f7B+). [Done it - YYFY!]
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- Do a selection of other new Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs as time permits. [Did Pink Indians, a 7B at Crag X this week.]
- Arch Enemies (7c+) ?

MTGs (next 3-6 months):
- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- More Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs and hopefully Ft7B+s

LTG (6-12 months):
- F8a
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)

M: rest
T: Went for another go at Moffatrocity in the evening. Had about 8 goes and got it back to the 2015 state of super-wiredness but always fell off the big move up where it joins Jericho Road. It's a nice place to spend an evening anyway.
W: Shoulder rehab.
T: Fingerboard session doing max hangs. Did the 18mm edge with +31kg, 2 finger pocket with +4.5kg and roof pinches with +0kg. Usual 10 second hangs but only 2 reps with each - having a low volume evening due to planning to climb Saturday. Did a couple of one arm lock-offs with each arm at the end (on the good beastmaker pockets.)
F: rest
S: Went to Crag X in the morning to do moffatrocity (f7B+). Had been super careful with diet Thursday/Friday and weighed a lb or two less than usual on Saturday morning so was feeling good, although didn't sleep well (wife away + nerves.) Warmed up then spent a long time experimenting with intermediates on the big move shared with Jericho Road (f7B), but again concluded (as last year) that they all make the move harder. Then got on with proper attempts and pleased to feel really strong. Did the crux first go but fumbled the match after it, then had a go where I had the power/reach but fumbled the hold. 3rd go I got almost to the end but ran out of juice, 4th go got right to the finish and somehow fell matching the finishing flake, out of power. 5th go I did it! So chuffed, every go needs a 20 minute rest after it and it's taken me 11 sessions in total...a lot of time. First lime 7B+.
After Moff I rested for a while, convinced myself that the holds on Sean's problem are too small for me, and then did pink Indians (f7B). I've tried this a couple of times before and did it in about 4 or 5 goes today.
Then went for a celebratory coffee & cake at Monsal Head before meeting some mates in late afternoon for a session on Kudos (f7B) at Rubicon. Quickly decided my finger didn't like it (right index) so sacked it, then showed them Crag X and repeated Jericho Road again for something to do. Tried what I think is Cherokee Lane (f7A+), but there were too many holds, couldn't work it out.
Fantastic day.
S: Had planned to get out but left shoulder and right middle finger were both crying out for a rest. Plans to go and do Wright's Traverse (f7B) postponed until tomorrow pm (looks like it should stop raining by 4ish and although I'm in work, I shouldn't need to stay too late.) Spent most of the day putting together a video edit of lot of problems I've done since about August (been planning to do this for a while but was waiting until I could include Moff!):
vimeo.com/164888398

Also did a few other short bits of shoulder rehab work.

Strange finger injury still the same. Second finger niggle (right index) needs care this week.

Weight last Sunday night was 11st 2lb.

Good week

Si
Post edited at 19:23
In reply to Dandan:

Ooh...would be interested to know what you/Mrs Dandan thought of Last Rose. I'm putting together a hitlist for the end of the summer when I hope to have ankle mostly rehabbed (though I know full range of motion will take longer than that) and be ready to pick up where I left off at 7a.

Up for any other recommendations too if anyone wants to throw some at me...my strengths used to be techy moves, strong lock off and crimps, but after 3 months of 2-legged jug campussing I have no idea what style I suit.
 Si dH 01 May 2016
In reply to Just Tintin:

> Ooh.. be ready to pick up where I left off at 7a.

> Up for any other recommendations too if anyone wants to throw some at me...my strengths used to be techy moves, strong lock off and crimps,


Cheedale.
 mattrm 01 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Dan - Thanks for doing the stats. It's good to see that you've recovered from your injuries. Heres to some well deserved crushing. Dish tucks are basically sit-ups and leg raises at the same time. I'm doing some planks as well now.

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
SMART Goals:
3 core session - 4 actually...
1 climb - yes!
1 run - nope

Weight - 12st 12lbs (2lbs loss)

M - Rest
T - 100 Dish tucks
W - Mix of planks, DTs, pullups and push ups
T - 1.5 hours of routes at the Rec, about 20 routes fr4-fr6a
F - 100 Dish tucks
S - Rest
S - Mix of planks, DTs, pullups and push ups

Felt so unfit on Thursday. But then it's been nearly a month since any climbing has happened. Managed to get a bit of weight off. Did a little coreish workout today. Had meant to go running, but just couldn't be arsed. Which is me at the moment all over. Oh well. I'm deffo going to get out once next week, maybe more. I'll try and keep the weight loss and core work up as well.

Next week:
3 core session
1 climb
1 run/bike/longish walk (some kind of cardio basically)
 humptydumpty 01 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks for doing the stats, Dan. Bad news on Clockwork Orange - see Tuesday!


STGs (previous):
* run*, boulder, yoga* every weekday (* or equivalent) [FAIL]
* get out on the rock every weekend [TICK]
* don't get injured, drink alcohol or smoke anything [FAIL]

STGs (future):
this week:
* run, yoga every weekday
* shoulder rehab every day
* no hard climbing sessions
* don't get injured
next week: kalymnos - get on some 6cs and see what happens!

MTGs (end of June):
* finish Clockwork Orange, a 50-move problem at the local wall
* tick 50% of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390
* learn how to fall off sport climbs

LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* climb Punsola-Reniu (aid allowed!)


M: cycled to the gym, started doing the 6b circuit - some are easy, some too hard for my withered left arm. then a girl had a heart attack and needed CPR and was taken off in an ambulance. went home and forgot to do any yoga.
T: ran up to clockwork orange. hold #29 has broken off, which makes that move a good bit harder! linked 1-29, and then 25-44, but left arm too weak for the final traverse. forgot about yoga
W: long yoga first thing to make up for yesterday. cycle, tai chi & down the wall in the evening. girl from Monday is in hospital but stable. a few 6bs; left arm hurts!
T: cycle, pilates & wall. left arm spasming after 40 mins climbing, but at least worked out an early move on a new 6c+. Definitely feels like a muscle issue so hopefully rest will sort it out. There's a 6a+ I can't do! Want to try when arm is working.
F: run & quick boulder; arm no good. didnt do yoga because went to the pub. quite a lot of STGs failed!
S: REST DAY! what a relief
S: climbed a lovely 6a: 10 pitches of filler, but worth it for 2 long pitches of beautiful limestone friction climbing! no gripes about arms, knees or anything else!! just over 500m in just under 6 hours; hour approach and hour back down again.

On paper a disappointing week - missed a few days yoga, felt tired and a bit broken during the week. Still buzzing from today's climb though, and excited about Kalymnos! Planning to take it easier this week and hopefully energy levels will be back up when I get to Kaly. Also thinking of taking a first aid course as I felt completely clueless watching an emergency unfold around me on Monday; so glad there were some people who knew what to do.
 Nick Russell 01 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Hi Dandan, thanks for the stats. The trampoline place was fun, but I prefer going to the sessions at Axis where they have comp trampolines and a coach. I like having the direction and feeling like I'm progressing in something.

I'm going to take a break from FC for a while. Could be just a week, could be much longer, I'll be in touch with some you to explain, but would rather not discuss in public just yet.
 mattrm 01 May 2016
In reply to Nick Russell:

Hope all is well. Always sad to see one of the long term regulars drop out. But you'll be back, I'm sure.
 AJM 02 May 2016
In reply to mattrm:

> Hope all is well. Always sad to see one of the long term regulars drop out. But you'll be back, I'm sure.

+1 to that....
In reply to Dandan:

> heelhookofglory: Nice looking week, has the psyche continued to be high?

Mega-high! I'm really feeling it at the moment and it's fantastic. I haven't felt this motivated to train for a few years and I'm loving it. Taking it steady though as I don't want to prematurely burnout and ruin it haha!
In reply to Si dH:

Good effort on Moffatrocity mate. Looks like Sat was an epic send day!
 Si dH 02 May 2016
In reply to heelhookofglory:

Cheers yes it was great. So happy.

In reply to AJM:

Good luck with the house move!
 TonyB 02 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dan, this week has been much more focused. I'm back on the plan and feeling good about it. I've got a new training schedule and feeling motivated. It's sometimes hard to do the same exercises, when there are new problems up and last week was definitely a lapse. The new schedule gives more time to climbing outside, the volume is down but the intensity is high and I'm watching my fingers carefully.

Mon short moderate circuits, very short rests - done on sections of the 7b+ circuit, followed by continuous climbing
Tue short very hard circuits, long rests - done on sections of the 8a+ circuit, followed by continuous climbing. Not surprisingly I'm finding this really hard, but it feels like great training and feels like it shocks the system. It's also motivating as I'll be psyched for any kind of improvements here.
Wed Core (fingers needed a rest)
Thurs Fingerboard (core needed a rest). Minor improvement in assisted 1 arm 10s hang. Now with 9kg assist. This is a customized edge, so can't be compared except for progress on my homeboard.
Fri Sports massage
Sat Climbing at Rubicon. I warmed up really well and ran about 6 laps on A Miller's Tale Start (f6B), played on a few boulder problems that I'd tried before, Kudos (f7B), A Bigger Tail (f7A) and then had a brief go on The Sissy (8a). I reinforced my previous view that this was not the 8a for me. It's really a boulder problem sandwiched between easy climbing. The word at the crag was that it could be V8 and given that that is well above what I can boulder, I don't feel it's worthwhile trying. Of course it's important to try hard moves, but I find it more fun and logistically easier to do on boulders. With that in mind, I went back to A Bigger Tail, and with good beta from Si dH and even better beta from his friend I made big improvements, hitting the top hold several times (but never latching it). I'm keen to go back for this one, and pleased to make progress. For me bouldering at Raven Tor and Rubicon is something of a benchmark. I've picked off the few problems that I can do and the others are really hard. Progress or topping any of them would be great.
Sun Home wall, hard problems (long rests). Good session but need to make the problems slightly harder.

This week I've tried to be a bit reflective on my climbing. The training is going well and I'm making gains here. Certainly my lattice scores suggest that I'm capable of doing an 8a this year. 7c in a session last weekend was pretty good. I have probably been neglectful of some other areas. Psychologically, I know that I'm nowhere near what would be required for an all round climber but I don't think I'm in a bad place for sport redpoint. Technique wise, I'm not sure how well I'm doing. I have had some sessions here and there with a coaches over the last few years but nothing recently, I think some of the faults identified previously might be creeping back. I think I wasted half my goes on A Bigger Splash hanging the crimps straight arm rather than getting high enough off them to make going for the next move possible. I'm not sure when, but I think it would be worth trying to get a session with a coach to look over my technique. I'm open for suggestions here. I'm very happy with the Lattice programme, so I would only be looking for an evaluation of technique. I'd also like whatever I do to be reasonably cost effective (either a one off session that would sort me for a while, or something local with a relatively modest hourly rate).

My sports massage was also informative. The masseur was quite blunt about my posture and how tight my forearms were. I think I need to start improving this and opening my chest. My strategy is going to do everything that he says. He also suggested that I don't drink enough water. I'll try that too. Plus without a doubt, lack of time on rock, and not having tried an 8a other than the sissy are holding me back.
 TonyB 02 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

> F: One arm hang benchmark; stupidly I did it on the wrong hold, I used the large slot on the outside edge of the BM2000, I had intended to use the lower centre slot which is smaller! Ah well, perhaps I will re-do it next week. Managed 10s hang with +2.5kg on the large outer slot, a drastic improvement on a few weeks ago already, I have lost a little weight though

Is there any reason why it should be the lower centre slot? I also have BM2000 and think it would be useful to be a bit more standardized on the hangs. Currently, I'm using the large slots on the outside, but have cardboard stuffed in the back to make them smaller. I think this might not be great, as my small improvements might be due to the cardboard getting compressed and the edge getting bigger? with my current set up my counterweight is located under that slot, meaning that hanging the central holds feels awkward. Perhaps, I've made myself a slightly silly system and the better thing would have been to have moved the counterweight system.

 Cyan 02 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Hello Dan, thanks for doing the stats...

Mon - Rest.
Tues - Started training plan with a fingerboard session which went very poorly!
Wedns - Boulder mileage. Split continuity. Rings.
Thurs - Overcame my terror of the autobelays to do minute on 2 mins off x10, then 8 mins on 8 mins off x3. Pressups.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Malham. Couple of goes up Bolt Revolt. Tremelo super-busy so a bit aimless.
Sun - Weather dispiritingly cold and damp. Perfectly possible to climb but didn't want to! Bickered a bit about what to do then went home.

JustTintin: Last Rose is lovely (well done MrsDanDan), I liked Pining for Glossop, Wolfgang Forever, To Wish The Impossible, alsoThrough The Barricades is supposed to be very onsightable but I've not had a go yet.

Good work Si, strong week and congrats AJM!
 Cyan 02 May 2016
In reply to TonyB:
Could you replace the cardboard with plywood?
 JayK 02 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers for starting the thread Dan. Just noticed that TonyB mentioned lattice scores. Makes me wonder how many people on this thread have either assessed themselves or had a session with Tom?

M-Rest
T-General bouldering
W-General bouldering
T-Rest
F-Rest
S-LPT. It was too cold for me again and I kept losing the feeling in my fingers. Had a play on Liquid Amber(!!!) and discovered what LPT 8c+ looks like. Then decided to whack some draws in Mussel Beach with the tide on its way in. Managed to squeeze in 1 RP but cold hands ended the attempt at the bulge. Quick rest and warm of hands and climbed straight through to the top. Evacuated up to Parisella's. Repeated Rock Atrocity. Then started working the Hatch start moves (had it dialled 12months ago). Did the start of that about 10 times and then tried to link it twice. Managed to get to the flake both times. Maybe when fresh? Going to try it this afternoon if the rain ever stops.
S-Rest
Post edited at 10:29
 biscuit 02 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Cheers Dan.

Not had time to read through the thread so I hope everyone is making use of the BH weekend.

Crap week for me as predicted.

1 x auto belay aero cap session. The one I wanted was off for a service so had to do 6a+ instead of 6b. 2 x 20 mins was all I had time for.

1x AnCap session. I had 45 mins after work so looked at doing this on the campus board. Laddering foot on on the big, medium, small rungs just led to pump not power out. Laddering on the big rungs with feet off however led to definite power out, very quickly. Going to try a proper session this week and benchmark it. It's not going to be text book and isn't ideal (i'd rather be climbing on a long boulder problem) but time is so short atm it will have to do.

Planned fingerboard didn't happen due to me getting ill over the weekend. Still feel crap now. Have to see how it goes this week. Bit inevitable as I've been really busy of late. Diet etc has been good and healthy but I've not been getting enough sleep for the last few weeks.

This weeks goals:

Illness and enforced house moving depending.

1 x an cap
1 x aero cap
1 x fingerboard
Maintain weight (i'm not restricting while i'm ill)
 AJM 02 May 2016
In reply to JayK:

> Cheers for starting the thread Dan. Just noticed that TonyB mentioned lattice scores. Makes me wonder how many people on this thread have either assessed themselves or had a session with Tom?

Me, Tony (with Ollie), Ally, CY via the remote testing protocol, cha1n when he was with us...? Who have I forgotten?
OP Dandan 02 May 2016
In reply to Just Tintin:

> Ooh...would be interested to know what you/Mrs Dandan thought of Last Rose.

We both really enjoyed it, without giving too much away, it's vertical with the crux on small holds and plenty of options to rest thoughout so it can be conquered with technique rather than power or endurance.
I'd certainly recommend it, although it seems that whole section of wall is very samey so you can pick pretty much any route along there and know roughly what you will get.
OP Dandan 02 May 2016
In reply to Nick Russell:

> I'm going to take a break from FC for a while. Could be just a week, could be much longer, I'll be in touch with some you to explain, but would rather not discuss in public just yet.

Hope all is well Nick, you will of course be welcome back whenever suits you, best wishes!

OP Dandan 02 May 2016
In reply to TonyB:

> Is there any reason why it should be the lower centre slot?

Not really, it just seemed about the right size to work towards a +0 assist for me. I'm not comparing my results to anyone else or any reference, its just to see personal improvement so it doesn't really matter which hold I use.

My counterweight is over a chin up bar below the fingerboard so can easily side it side to side.

OP Dandan 02 May 2016
In reply to Curious Yellow:

> JustTintin: Last Rose is lovely (well done MrsDanDan), I liked Pining for Glossop, Wolfgang Forever, To Wish The Impossible, alsoThrough The Barricades is supposed to be very onsightable but I've not had a go yet.

Through the Barricades (7a+) was my first 7a+ onsight so i'd have to recommend that one too!

OP Dandan 02 May 2016
In reply to JayK:

> Cheers for starting the thread Dan. Just noticed that TonyB mentioned lattice scores. Makes me wonder how many people on this thread have either assessed themselves or had a session with Tom?

I'm having an assessment in July with Tom, quite looking forward to it.

 planetmarshall 02 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:
> planetmarshall: That looks like a huge volume of aero to me, is it a realistic goal? How is the shoulder?

Cheers Dandan. It's not a huge amount - at least it wouldn't be if I managed to pull my finger out. A Z1 trail run in the Peak can take anything from 1 - 3 hours depending where I go, so all I need to do is get out a couple of times a week - not even managing that at the moment, though.

Shoulder's doing quite well. I can still feel the imbalance but it's definitely improving, will see the physio about it soon.

Mon - Strength and Conditioning (Hypertrophy)
Core warmup -
4 sets (supersets)
Turkish getup /Ring dip (bodyweight)
Wide Pullup (bodyweight)/Resisted pushup (using red band)
Hang squat/military press
Tue - Routes at AW Sheffield. Attempted to get the 6b I was working on before it got reset - failed.
Wed - Rest
Thu - Rest
Fri - Problems at Manchester Depot. Good session, tried a few problems at blue, black and red. Will try a structured pyramid next time.
Sat - Benchmarks. (See STG)
Sun - AW Sheffield. Some fall practice and attempts on several routes at 6b and 6b+. Didn't get to the top of anything, but actually felt I was climbing quite well.

STG

Last weeks goals -

* Aerobic. 4h 40m Z1 ( inc 40m Z2 )
Failed.

* Continue Hypertrophy protocol and add a core session during the week.
Failed on the core session.

* Retest my benchmarks
Done, apart from the hill climb.
16 dips - improved from 8
25 situps - improved from 18
12 chinups - improved from 8
24 box jumps - improved friom 23, but difficult to do much more than this. Will increase height and retest.
30 pressups - improved from 18

* Climbing
** 2 routes at med-hard HVS. 1 hard HVS or an easy E1.
Didn't get out this week.
** The 6b on line 93 at AW Sheffield. Need to get this done this week or it'll be gone forever!
Failed.
** Bouldering. Either at the Depot or (preferably) outdoors somewhere.
Some problems at the Depot: Blue, Black and Red.

Next week's goals -

* Do box jump and hill climb tests
* Aerobic. 2h 30m Z1 ( inc 30m Z2 ). Cutting this in half in an effort o actually achieve this.
* Strength and Conditioning.
** Move to 5 sets for hypertrophy protocol.
** Add a core session during the week
* Climbing
** 2 med-hard HVS and a hard HVS or easy E1
** One 6b and one 6b+
** Bouldering - try a pyramid if indoors. Circuit if outdoors.

MTG

Left shoulder rehab.

Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)

LTG

Recovery of left shoulder injury.

Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly

Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)

Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe

Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)

Learn to ski.

BHAG

The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)

Something on El Capitan.
Post edited at 11:13
 Emily 02 May 2016

> I'm going to take a break from FC for a while. Could be just a week, could be much longer, I'll be in touch with some you to explain, but would rather not discuss in public just yet.

Same situation for me
 Ian Bell 02 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Hi all and thanks for the stats dandan. Particular congrats to si and Mrs Dandan on their efforts this week as well

Crazy busy work week for me but still got a bit done

Monday- 2 sets trx rings
Weds- 90 mins strength and conditioning (press ups, sit ups etc)
Thurs- 5 sets triples. Format hard, easy, hardest. I guess average about 6c,6a,6c+. Generally failed about halfway on the 3rd
Sat. Blacknor central in lovely sun. Warmed up on some old favourites and then got Through the Barricades (7a+) 2nd go. Would agree with the consensus its onsight able, esp if the crux is chalked. Hardest route for 18 months so pleased with that, didn't feel too bad.
Sun. Cuttings. Couple of goes on The Holy Hand Grenade (7a) which was ok apart from one tough move. Onsight attempt on The Cutting Edge (6c+). Came off near the top. What a route though, feels spicy but that just adds to it.
Mon- 2 sets trx rings. 15 mins yoga, getting a sore back I think at least partly from bad trx form.

Hopefully outside again next weekend. Was considering llanmynech, anyone been and have any recommendations?
 TonyB 02 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

That makes sense. I'll stick with what I'm doing because it seems to work.

To Curious Yellow, It would be hard to replace the cardboard with plywood because it's in a pocket. I'm sure it could be done, but it could be hard to remove.
 Tyler 02 May 2016
In reply to Curious Yellow:

Mindful of you saying we should say hello next time you were up I hovered around a bit unsure whether it was you or not! Everyone was so wrapped up its hard to tell who is who and also I was thrown by the fact you seemed to be on Frankenstein or something when I was expecting you to be on Tremelo. I was flitting between upstairs and belaying someone on the Groove
 Cyan 02 May 2016
In reply to TonyB:
I've used multiple layers of 3mm ply to do something similar, shaped to the pocket but there's enough of a gap at the side that it's not hard to get the layers out. Prob not worth the hassle though - I'd have used cardboard if I'd had any to hand!
 Cyan 02 May 2016
In reply to Tyler:
Ah, I almost said hello but then suddenly doubted I had the right person! We arrived quite late and didn't want to add to the queues on Tremelo so were messing around on Bolt Revolt debating what to do... Hope your route is going well
 Si dH 02 May 2016
In reply to TonyB:

An AA battery in the back of the hold while hanging works well for me (Joyce's suggestion.) Makes it about 18mm, which it seems lots of people use as a benchmark. Would need a lot of assistance to hang it one armed like that though, I'm using that for two hands.
In reply to AJM:

I'm two months into a one-legged Randall programme

 AJM 03 May 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Assuming some sort of vague similarity between our test results, probably less than you'd think - double pullup/max hangs were vaguely similar which suggests similar one arm readings might also be.
 Ally Smith 03 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Home-working; what will be, will be. I'll only find out how bad it is once i've done it for a while.

Last/Next week’s goals:
Cycle >40miles total – complete fail – not sure how it’s going to fit in this week either
Edit skiing video - fail
3x rehab sessions – 2x only - repeat
1x an-cap - fingerboard, Depot or Cave? – Longridge felt like an-cap?
1x aero-cap - fingerboard, Depot or trad!?! – tick - repeat
2x mental rehearsal of project sequences – tick – repeat

May goals:
Continued shoulder rehab and core fitness – yoga has been good; core feels like it’s very active and flexible, e.g. The Wire moves, but not strong like it used to
Continue to rehab strange finger tweak – mummy taping has stopped it getting worse, but it isn’t getting better very quickly
1x week an-cap fingerboard work-out
1x week aero-cap
Link Broken Heart into Almost Familiar, 8a+/b?
Link SSiC into CoF; 8a+/b?
RP the easier Malham potential project
Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey; bolt North Wales quick project

Week 18:
M - Longridge. Felt rubbish warming up – low on power and enduro. Did Bend of the Rainbow (V6) for the first time, but dropped the Low Life Traverse (V5) finish. Did this in isolation afterwards; the high finish felt pretty wiggy without lots pads and attentive spotters. Bailed out above the solitary pad rather than finish it! Tried to do some other bits and bobs, but was barely making a dozen moves before wilting. Not really powering out, nor getting pumped – a confusing session.
T - Pre-work theraband session. Randall elbow stretch and eccentrics – touch of tennis elbow has curtailed fingerboarding of late and it’s not going away. Time to get methodical on its ass! Yoga – easier session than the Thursday class.
W - Malham after work with Will. Whodunnit (6c+) to warm-up and dog to get the draws in. #1 Undercut moves feel hard and fall off entering crux. #2 & #3 equal high-point from Sunday slapping at incut. #4 felt pretty bionic – Tickled incut. #5 bit rubbish on undercut sequence again. 1-hang and strip. Found small intermediate to ease last hard move off the incut. 6c+, 7a+, 6c+, 6a+ TR warm-down. Annoyingly find a better pre-crux rest by stepping further right than I’ve been doing. Hopefully this will make the all difference next time.
T - Pre-work fingerboard aero-cap. Hopefully my future self will thank me for the effort! 12x 1min on/1 min off 7:3@ 60% Felt like hard work and certainly harder than the FOC aero-cap equivalent. Randall elbow stretch and eccentrics.
F - Bit of gardening & DIY
S - Early morning Tor session. Busy – bit lacking in raw power for Tor routes. Dicked about on Weedkiller, Ben’s Roof (pocket doesn’t tweak left ringfinger – YYFY!) and Chimes. NT property visit with ‘rents, then pub dinner.
S - More gardening & DIY
 Ally Smith 03 May 2016
In reply to AJM:

Congrats on the house purchase - moving house is a right ballache - this weekend i finally unpacked the 3 remaining boxes of crud, 18 months after moving in!

Finger-strength stats are impressively even; to me, the 3-finger drag is a very impressive score - doubt i get close.
 hokkyokusei 03 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks for compiling the list and keeping teh thread going

> hokkyokusei: More sanity-saving cycling this week?

Yes, more cycling, but also a short run! I have orthotic inserts due to having one leg longer than the other, and I discovered that running without them eases the shin splints pain considerably. I'm registeered for a 5k race tonight. I'm not going to race it, but I'm going to go and run around and, if I'm OK, gradually start to build up the distance and speed. Felt a bit low about the whole thing on Saturday, but vicariously watched the Three Peaks race I was meant to be doing online, willing on my training buddy as he ran through the various checkpoints. He did 4:55 which was better than he'd hoped, and I'm really looking forward to entering again next year.

m - cycling 10k
t - cycling 10k
w - cycling 10k
t - pub
f - cycling 10k
s - pub and watching the 3 peaks online
s - 1.8km slow running

Weight 81.8kg, Body Fat 19.8% , both slightly up, but my longer term trend is still down.
 hms 03 May 2016
In reply to Ally Smith:

home working is different for different people I suspect, but can be extremely isolating.

My husband is a workaholic and now works for an American company. Result - he starts work at a normal UK time and finishes work at a normal US east coast time. Because work is just there, always accessible from the comfort of our study, that's what he does, all the time.

Think you might have a different and more balanced outlook!
 AJM 03 May 2016
In reply to Ally Smith:

Cheers Ally. Still got a bunch of moving to do but we got the vast bulk of the furniture across yesterday so at least bits of the house are starting to look like a home...

I think the one which surprised me most was probably the crimp actually - it feels like suh an aggressive thing to be doing compared with the chisel that I was sure that meant I'd be able to hang less on it.
 alexm198 05 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:
Yo Dandan, thanks for doing the stats.

Floppy week for me as I was trying to save myself for a trip to the alps.

M:2 hours down at the Arch, took things very easy so as not to antagonise the elbows.
F: Flew to Geneva, flight was cancelled so got there 5 hours later than planned which was a pain in the ass.
S: Frendo-Ravanel (TD-) on a bluebird morning, but the climb was in heinous condition. Lots of wading up snow which my partner took the brunt of (cheers Tim!) I lead a full 60m pitch inc. the crux to the top of the difficulties. There was just enough ice to fill all the cracks on the crux which made it bold and insecure, but no useful ice otherwise (it's normally an iced up bulge with an ice covered slab on the right). Some of the hardest mixed I've climbed, felt like top end Scottish tech 7, though I probably haven't done enough of those to comment. Certainly harder than other M6 pitches I've done in the alps. Nearly too pumped to put the ropes in the belay plate at the top!

That was it for me this week. On a side note, I've managed to tweak my ring and little fingers on my left hand controlling a barn door on an upside down two-finger pocket yesterday. When I try and pull with either of those fingers I'm getting sharp pain in the outside of my wrist. Anyone know what this is/how I might be able to rehab it?

EDIT: Forgot to say that I then flew home early on Sunday morning from Geneva as the weather crapped out and it dumped snow for 2.5 days down to valley level!
Post edited at 07:32
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dandan. Sorry to disappoint...I meant that it had been a week when I had actually trained and therefore was better, not an 'oh my god I flashed 8a' kind of week! Started climbing indoor and out two-legged again, and though it's going to take a while to get range of movement, it's good to be back. Going to Portland on Sunday this week so hopefully can better assess any strength gains from my broken ankle training programme then.

M - Fingerboard
T - hospital physio circuits class
W - 1 on 2 off (1-legged) then tried top-roping a 6a and a 6b with two legs. Putting the shoe back on was hard as foot is still fat. Great wear disparity on edges too from last few months!
T - rest - swollen after yesterday.
F - CapPow, Campus
S - First two-legged bouldering outing. Flashed Flat Wall Traverse (f6A) at Stanage Apparent North before the sleety snow came. The inflexibility of my ankle meant I couldn't do any drop knee bridging so the crux to this route ended up in a weird place.
S - 1 on 2 off then routes at Wirksworth. Led 6 routes clean to 6c+. Wirksworth is generally soft, but I think the 6c+ was at least a real 6c, so still happy with that at first lead back.
 Si dH 05 May 2016
In reply to alexm198:


> That was it for me this week. On a side note, I've managed to tweak my ring and little fingers on my left hand controlling a barn door on an upside down two-finger pocket yesterday. When I try and pull with either of those fingers I'm getting sharp pain in the outside of my wrist. Anyone know what this is/how I might be able to rehab it?

Tentatively sounds like you have tweaked your flexor tendon. Usual rehab for this os to keep climbing but at low load that doesn't cause pain. You don't want to rest them completely. When i did mine (middle two though) I just did arc traversing on big jugs and slopers for a few weeks, which helped enormously. Use 4 fingers pn everything to start with and don't drop to three (eitherr three, or either two) for a while and when it feels completely safe and painless.

 0.5viking 05 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks for doing the stats Dan, be careful with the elbows! It’s Norwegian grading, which felt quite soft compared to UIAA I must admit (though the time I climbed uiaa graded routes it was jamming which I hadn’t done previously). I should probably watch out for my right elbow as well, have been writing a lot for exam preparation that my elbow hurts a lot when writing or typing. Hasn’t affected climbing luckily.

Weight: 72.8
M: climbing outdoors, a quick one, just went on one route, a trad 6- had one fall and one rest on the rope, not returning for it due to it being mossy and the top isn’t nicem, a slab covered in lichen and bushes without pro.
T: climbing outdoors, after warming up the first 3 bolts of Sundays 7+ had 2 redpoint tries. First one I came to fifth bolt and my foot slid off the hold, found a new sequence for my foot. Second try I fell after the sixth bolt (last one), due to not putting my left foot 10cm higher on the smear I just couldn’t reach the jug (after which all holds are jugs) and went for it dynamically and fell.
W: running to uni (includes 150m ascent) then walk to work and walk home.
T: climbing outdoors, warmed up by the first 3 bolts of the 7+ (7a) again, then did it first rp. Then went for to try the moves on a 7/7+ (6c+) to have a project for the next time. Took a while before I got the sequence between the first and second bolt and found alternative beta at the third. Decided to give it a go and did it afterwards. Good day out, managed my first 7+ and my first ever 7/7+ which went second go as well .
F: climbing indoor, planned to do some light warmup bouldering and antagonists, but got sucked up in trying harder boulders, but didn’t succeed on them, didn’t do antagonists.
S: rest
S: climbing outdoors, repeated a 6, got quite pumped, then flailed on a 7- on toprope and had some toprope goes on a 7+.

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